Appie

By the looks of it, in Tommy's image the spring is 1 stud closer to the towball pin than it is on your model, maybe that's the difference.

After testing my version of MaxSupercars' mod some more, I decided it was crap. I don't like the crap it does in neutral, so it has to go. Clean slate. This time I basically worked on the rough version from Max' video into LDD and hid the lock behind both panels, because that was what I wanted to do in the first place. I think this solution actual looks better than my previous crap. I couldn't figure out why the model has a 3x5 liftarm on the side, besides it adding support for the structure above it. The pinholes aren't used by the body that goes on top from what I can see. So I switched it with a 2x4 liftarm since I needed the space. I tested this mechanism on my mock up and it works. And this how it should look on the model: Thanks Max for the great idea!

Thanks and yeah, you're right about the screen

Great idea and can hide the HOG top under the hood with the Porsche bag probably when it's not used. Maybe it fits in the bag even, in parts or as a whole, I don't know how hollow that thing is. edit: Made some adjustments to my version of MaxSupercars' gearlock. It works now, except for one little problem. In neutral there is a bit of slack in the system. Unlike MaxSupercars' version which only has slack from the gear selector, this has play from the gear selector which is amplified by the mechanism at the bottom to account for the D>N>R sticker. When the selector is in reverse or drive it has no play, so neither will the mechanism at the bottom. I tried to reduce the slack in neutral with a friction pin at the lower mechanism, but with a bit of force you could still gear down while in neutral (not sure if that's really a bad thing though), can't gear up. Otherwise it works just like Max' mod, can only engage reverse from 1st gear and drive is free to go whichever way.

The MOD for HOG at the rear is already done, was a couple of posts above your previous one It probably doesn't look finished due to all the universal joints not being connected, but I hate working with that angle tool in LDD, they were tested in real life to work. I didn't want to use that many universal joints, but without redesigning the whole gearbox to fit a steering axle in there, this was the easiest/laziest way The original designer of that LDD is most likely JunkystyleGio, considering I recognize parts that use substitutes for the new parts in Tommy's images. Didn't know it was ok to toss around his LDD freely.

That's indeed a very clean and good looking HOG solution, great work didumos69. Personally I really don't like a gear on the dashboard though, but this method I'd almost use myself. edit: decided to look up the GT3 RS actual dashboard: It has a little clock where Didumos69 and Attika put their HOG, 20T bevel gear might be a little too big to mimic that, but 12T bevel gear should be close? Might be harder to handle. Either way, at least the real Porsche has a bump there too on the dash, same height as the clocks for the driver. So the HOG could pass as "authentic"

Well, I tested my own version of MaxSupercars' gearlock, too much friction and one part needs to be locked into place more than it is to work properly (super flimsy the way it was on the previous page). I'll try to look at it tomorrow. Meanwhile I finished my HOG solution. Tested the angles of the universal joints, all worked. The one at the rear needs its 3L axle about 1-2MM not fully inserted into the universal joints (so 0.5-1MM on each end) to move freely. Had to sacrifice one 11x5 black panel above the rear axle (tried to replace it with a 11x3, but no luck). The HOG is right at the place I desired though. Easy access through the rear window, compatible with Jetro's modular body mod and it's not directly in sight. I tried to work out where "the marriage" blocks slots on the chassis, I am 95% sure it's clean. It should look a little like this with part of the interior on top: edit: Woops, just noticed I need another solution at the rear to lock the HOG, since this isn't easy "remove gear and body comes off", you can get it off, but you'll probably never get it on there again. One sec, should be easy. And quick fix done, stupid LDD crashing every second, probably an issue with my videocard drivers. Here's an image, basically the centre where the HOG gear is put, is fixed to the chassis, so Jetro's mod requires no additional effort with this mod.

You're aware that will clash with the chair in that spot? Your solution at the rear was better. And seems my previous post is drowned on the previous page. Again... Still hoping somebody wants to test with the actual parts I used.

Axle connectors don't turn, which was the whole point of my mechanism to work with the D>N>R sticker. I know the pin with pinhole aren't a prefered alternative due to friction, but it's better than no movement at all from axle connectors. I made 2 pictures to illustrate which parts were used. (Yes I am aware there's a 7L grey axle in this colour coding) Also the axle or liftarm shouldn't matter on the bottom, it's only function is blocking a 2L thin liftarm, it will manage. Can somebody please test the mod with the same parts that I used?

This isn't the mod I made, it has all the wrong parts, which causes the bending. Also, the mechanism I made follows the sticker D>N>R like the normal model. That took the most time, hence why I said I wish it was like a real car. Let me make some images, 1 sec.

Cool, I look forward to your test! And yeah, it shows a little below the seat, but it's black so at least it blends with the floor? edit: Think I found a new place for HOG that can continue from my HOG alongside the midconsole (it's routing is on the other side of the gearlock mod), the marriage grants me 1 stud of space. Let's hope it's all I need.

Yeah, I am afraid it will have to come on the dash (not my preference, I don't want to see it at all at first glance), but the rear is so full of gear or not so handy placed panels to route HOG axles through that the dash might be the only solution. Edit: hmm one method that could also work is making one of the rear exhausts a HOG. Ultimately hidden, but not so easy to use, then again, anything better than the wheel at the driver's seat? In fact that lack of control on the wheel is the only reason I am looking into a HOG, I would have been fine without it. In the 8865 and even in the HOG equipped 8880 the steering wheel was easy to reach.

Currently working on a HOG as well, I am trying to put the HOG in the rear above the rear wheels on the black panels and functional with Jetro's body removal mod. The LDD I have from JunkystyleGio is only of the chassis so seeing where "the marriage" puts some stuff is kind of hard to see. Getting it beyond the midconsole was super easy, just that rear part, I am curious to see your idea.

Yes, why? Because of the posts above (yours on the previous page ). More interested in what people think of the adjustment I made to MaxSupercars' mod.

Paul Boratko's logic makes sense for Lego's point of view, not so much for anybody else who is older, but hey, goes with the realistic steering and suspension right?

Yup, but then you need a different sticker as well. After messing around with MaxSupercars' mod for the gearlock, I kind of wished it was R>N>D instead of D>N>R, would have made my mod of his mod a little easier. Thanks to JunkystyleGio I have some renders of this mod. I am 99% sure it should work like MaxSupercars' mod, but it's hidden better in the model (imo). Anyway this is it: The purple parts (and a few pins/axles that are still blue) is what has been altered (of course supertechnicman's mod is also applied). Barely visible on the image is this part: I had to make a slight adjustment to Blakbird's mod to fit this mechanism under the midconsole panel. I tested this in a quick mock up and it doesn't seem to cause additional friction. The pin joiner that was originally there really doesn't like that first stud in front of bevel gears, but seems cool with the second stud where the second bush would go, that's the main reason I kept working on this. Also the liftarm I had here was thinner than the pin joiner. People who have built it, please test it if my mockup was right, because if it isn't this whole mod of a mod is useless The 13L liftarm in front of this mechanism had to move one stud forward. Luckily since Lego didn't do anything with that abundance of space in front, it can move. This shouldn't cause additional issues for stuctural intergrity, because that part of chassis is also held in place by the midconsole panels. This is what it should like with proper colours: And with the panel over it (and later the chair), it's barely visible: Unlike Max, I only used 1L for the blocking mechanism instead of 2, due to only having one stud of movement and in Max's setup he will clash with the gears behind it, but I don't think the second is really needed especially in this setup that has the block locked in from all sides. Speaking of which. I used a 3L axle with stop which isn't secured on the end of the pin with pinhole, I don't expect it to fall out because the thing is locked in place at the rear with this part, but again please test it I could have used a 4L axle, but wasn't sure if it would clash with the liftarm in the second image of this post that I moved a stud in Blakbird's mod. I hope it works, if not, back to the drawing board.

I love it when engineers come up with new concepts and people make it into Lego. Great work!

The answer has already been given by stevenhalim. The differential has to be in that position so the sticker at the D>N>R selector is right. Putting the diff the other way then forward becomes reverse and reverse becomes forward.

Oh sorry, didn't know the 3/4 pin wouldn't be fully compressed for the handlebars. The foot controls as they are do work, just have to press it tightly together to allow posing, but your solution should work better.

Cool mods. Is the part you use as brakehandles this one? I am not sure how you attached it, but it looks like you used a 3/4 pin. That's not going to hold that position.

Nope, tend to be small variations, but a couple of pins and bushes is usually a given.

Going by Sariel's review, the 2 bushes for fix 1 are in spares. #3 requires about 5 additional pins, 2 of which those 3L axle pin, the rest is probably in the spares. See the video on the first page of this topic.

Could I possible have the LDD as well? I have an idea to add some proper HOG, perhaps some ackermann (this depends more on the wheelarches) and a different method of Max Supercars mod that won't sacrifice the 7x3 panel.

Basically the knob gears that are on the liftarms of the paddles are semi-fixed in position because of the red catchovers with the 2L rubber beams with axle holes below them. Those semi-fixed knob gears will turn the centre knobgear about 90 degrees because of that red catchover construction. I hope that makes it more clear.

Guilty, so thanks for the link. Sounds like you had a blast! Fun read.