mahjqa

Yes it does. The LBG pins are for styling and exterior. The orange ones are for the inside and the mechanics. With the mechanics, exact placement of the exact right part is ESSENTIAL. We're talking Lego Technic here, not Lego A e s t h e t i c. If someone mounts a rearview mirror wrong, the car will still work. If only a tiny single part of a gearbox is misaligned, that gearbox will malfunction or just simply seize up. So, where it's important, there is color vomit. Where it isn't, they use whatever color works best.

I'm not really sure about that. I'm pretty sure that if you put a driving ring above the selector, it will do the exact opposite as the driving ring below it. So you can't really operate those two independently from eachother with just a single selector. Same thing with putting one to the left and the right of the selector.

I was willing to let the "color vomit" comments go until this one. Look. Dude. 1- There's a three-length tan coloured pin sticking through one. So that blue 20-tooth gear can't have an axle hole. 2- It's actually used inside a gearbox mechanism, you can see the part where it engages just like the red 16-tooth clutch gear would. If YOU don't have the mental faculties to distinguish one 20-tooth gear from the other, what odds does your typical 12-year old have? Hence the color vomit.

I'd like to sign up for team "if you don't like it, quit your whining and do it yourself". Because, you know, it's Lego.

Nintendo got away with using the name "WII". I guess we'll get over "Pee You" pretty fast.

Thank you so much! The 'original' bit is a bit necessary for me. For example: there are so many people building things like supercars. I don't think I have the skills to make something that stands out in that field. So I've got to do something different :) I still have to take more pictures, both of the internals and the camera rig. So those are coming up. And nope, there's no differential. Each rear wheel has a separate motor. This allows each wheel to run at different speeds as required. Also, if one wheel would lose contact with the ground, you wouldn't lose power entirely. (Not much of a concern here, but I think it's useful.) This is the kind of gearing I used for each wheel: Not as far as the technic bits are concerned, but I used quite a bit of purple system parts. More chassis pictures are coming up. That's exactly what I love about them! They are hideous, and aggressively dumb and impractical. I'm not exactly sure how good the car would look with a regular setup; the wheelarches are WAY oversized. You'd have to replace those, and I don't know if you can get the look exactly right without them. I've ordered four of these bastards in purple, maybe those would work. Thank you! I don't have the money for that. Knowing me, I'd end up in a Skoda or a Volvo. At some point, Lego has started using different LEDs for their lights. The original ones were slightly yellowish and dull, while the new ones are more blue and bright. What also helps is that I filmed most of this around either dusk or dawn*. This means there is less ambient light, and the LEDs themselves seem brighter. To everyone else I haven't adressed personally: thank you so much for your comments! I was a bit worried that this choice of style would be controversial, but you all seem to enjoy it for the silly thing it is. *(At some point I got up at five in the morning DURING THE WEEKEND to film this. I'm weird like that. Then again- otherwise I'd have to deal with the skaters. Who have more of a right to be there than me, seeing as it's filmed in a skate park.)

After releasing Khagaan I hit a bit of a building block. I built something ridiculous to get out of the funk. More pictures: Flickr link Very grateful for imurvai's android game controller app. It's frickin' glorious. Currently, the wheels have 22,5 degrees negative camber. I'm pretty sure 45 degrees is possible, but at this scale it'd be tricky. I really wanted to use 3-pin wheel connectors, since I'm pretty sure the wheels would just slide off otherwise. I really don't like that this steering arm has friction, but what can you do. This stuff is bad for your tires: Hope y'all like it.

Very impressive machine, and the shaping and coloring is spot on. It must've been a major pain to fit all the mechanics in there. But in the mean time, best of luck with your cold. Hope you'll get better soon.

This is just a short "thank you" post- your program works magnificently, and it's very easy to set up. I'm impressed. One question though; is there support for skid steering? It was mentioned somewhere in may last year, but I can't find anything else in the thread or documentation.

Very sweet! I'm a sucker for compact cars, and less weight means more speed. I hope you'll film this at some point, I reckon this one is fast as hell. Very nice panel work, too.

That's some solid work. The renders look really nice, interesting to see how the drive motors are set at an angle.

All the motor info you'll ever need is here: http://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm

Tommy Styrvoky actually ran with it. Here's what he has produced so far: Sadly, I haven't had time to do some good work on this myself yet, but I hope his work helps you along. Tommy, thanks for helping out.

I think it's a pretty decent set. Then again, I also think that gearboxes add literally zero playability*, so make of that what you will. *If they're used to power different functions, that's brilliant. If they're used to move the pistons at 6 separate barely distinguishable speeds, I'm not impressed.

I would advise against crumbled biscuits; that stuff will get everywhere, jamming up gears. Also, it'll slip through every tiny crack there is. I wouldn't be surprised that stuff left behind will get pretty funky after a while. I've seen other folks use coarse sawdust (I suppose like the stuff for hamster cages). It's light, airy, doesn't biodegrade as much. Personally, I'd look for some sort of plastic solution. Perhaps buy tons of regular technic pins? They're very cheap on bricklink if you buy them in massive quantities.

Excellent solution, great camera work.

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The model looks very nice and functional, but did you just lock that angle connector #2 inside that 7x5 frame?

Indeed.I'm sure that in time we'll have third-party solutions, but as far as I know Lego themselves have no intentions of releasing software for PC or Mac.

So, if I turned any of these things into an LDD file, which one would you prefer?

Technically, not much. I just made it look a lot better. Also, I built the environment (rocks, crashed spaceships, dunes and so on) It was very much inspired by that game. I'll try and see if I can get some done. If the nanofigs (without base) are 2 meters high, Khagaan would measure about 182 meters in length. A Nimitz-class aircraft carrier is around 332 meters long. I'm not really great at naming. What would you suggest? That's so cool! I hope you'll post it here. And everyone else, thank you so much for your kind words. It's been a long haul, but it was worth it.

An estimated 25000 parts, 9kg, 109cm long. (That's 20 pounds, 43 inches). For Lego Space builders there's a tradition: SHIPtember. Each September, any Lego fan can try to build a SHIP. (Also known as a Seriously Huge Investment in Parts). It's typically for spaceships, but I think landships work just fine. Minimum length of 100 studs, preferably to be built in a single month. Khagaan took three. The two smaller vehicles took a month each. Now I've finally finished filming and editing, it's Shiptember again. So in that way, it's perfectly on time :) More pictures:

So, how I expected the poll to go: 1- Power functions 2- Mindstorms 3- Premade Lego RC base 4- Sbrick 5- BuWizz 6- Other To that poll, my answers would be: 1- Power functions if the model is slow and/or used mostly indoors 2- Sbrick if the model needs precise control, needs to work both inside and outside without interference, and if I can be bothered with their software. So yeah... put me down for "fully remotely controlled".

To those who are wondering about the capabilities of the programming environment, I tried to illustrate some bogus programs: So you get your loops, if->then statements, mathematical operations, access to sensor data and dog knows what else. To clear screen space, programs can be "wrapped up", as in: multiple screens full of instructions can be represented by a single operation square onscreen. Sure, you're not going to build the large hadron collider with this thing. However, this still seems like ample functionality to me, and that's just after playing around with this for 5 minutes. Some more pictures of programming blocks: (Not really sure what all of them do; there's no text, and my batteries gave out)

Some instructions are online here: http://robotics.benedettelli.com/lego-boost-17101-building-instructions/ (The 3D printer/factory model is there, though). As far as I know, the app only runs on tablets, no computers or cell phones. That is until the coders get their hands on it, of course. (Seeing how many people still prefer studded construction to the studless stuff, this should be right up their alley).