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So, my set came in today. If you're unclear of what it is, check Sariel's preliminary vid here: So far I built the cat, and I'm very impressed by the solidity of the system. The programming interface is simple but powerful, and communicates everything clearly without words. The commands are simplified for the official builds, so instead of manually programming [rotate motor B clockwise for one second, then anticlockwise for one second, repeat 4 times] you get a command block that says [cat wags tail] Of course, once you get into working with your own models, there's an option of dealing with motor speed, direction, rotation sensors and everything directly. First impressions: The models are well thought out, and due to smart color selection parts are easy to find, yet have a coherent colorscheme. Parts selection is superb, design of the app is pleasant and clear. Only 6 penlites, and no way to power models with an external powersource? That's going to take either a whole lot of batteries, or buying some rechargeables. Powering the unit off to save on batteries means holding the power button for 10+ seconds, and even then it can be unclear wether the unit is really off. The electronics provided should bring ample functionality. (internal tilt sensor, external light/distance sensor, two internal motors and one external motor). So, if you have any questions, I might be able to answer them.

If you're limited to outdoor shooting, make sure you film on an overcast day. If you have a single lightsource (the sun, in this case) you'll get very bright, sharp highlights, and the rest of the model will fade in pure blackness. Also, you don't need any "special lights" for most photography jobs. I usually make do with one or two desk lamps. I don't aim them at the model itself, but I point them at a white wall or white piece of paper. That way, you get light that's more distributed and even. Or, if you want to go absolutely hog-wild: The way I made these: 1. Get a fully darkened room. 2. put your model on a dark background. 3. Put your camera on a tripod, and make sure it ABSOLUTELY CAN NOT MOVE. 4. Use a single light source, and light your model from an interesting angle. As said before, you can also reflect light off a piece of paper to get a more diffuse effect. 5. Take a picture, and repeat steps 4 and 5 until you have a metric arseload of pictures. Since you're photographing a static model on a tripod, you can use very long exposure times if you want. Sometimes I use a single LED with an exposure time of 15 seconds. Whatever works. 6. Use photoshop to blend all the different pictures together. You'll have to use the photoshop levels or curves commands to get rid of anything but the highlights in the pictures you take. Put each different picture on a separate layer, and set their blending modes to "screen". This means only the highlights of each picture will show through. 7. (optional) Especially with black models, you can easily color each layer with photoshop (image>adjust>hue/saturation) to get some interesting effects.

Very impressive.

Wrong. If it's not posted under a creative commons license (or something like it) it's owned by the video creator, and you legally can't do anything with it unless you have permission of the owner. Of course, this being the internet, nobody seems to give a flying fadoodle about that.

One thing that I think is often overlooked: Film from the perspective of the model. Put your camera at the eye level of how someone in real life would look at the real thing. If you want to exagerrate, put it even lower, so your model looks really imposing. To illustrate: This looks like a little toy: This looks better: And this looks imposing: Also, camera vehicles are my thing. A shot in motion can look so much better. In the video below, starting at 1:00, you can see some of the moving camera vehicles I've been using: Pictures of them can be found here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskbvDFFb https://flic.kr/s/aHsjBiapbW Now, often these can take quite a bit of time and effort to build. Also, you'll need to work around the specific camera you'll be using. (Pro tip: use rubber bands to attach your camera. Easy and solid fit guaranteed!) However, they give an amazing effect.

Never enough.

Very well done. Love how you got all the functionality in this relatively small scale.

For those who are interested; the inside of my vehicle:

Rules: Every vehicle is powered with a standard AA batterybox and a single medium motor. Length or width shouldn't exceed 16 studs. Prizes are awarded for prettyness, originality, best crash, and fastest speed. In that order. Prizes in this case were won by eti, lucrichters, koffiemoc, and trijntje, In that order. Adapt rules as needed.

Great model, I love all the functional details you've put into it. The rotating flashing lights are a great touch. Can you maybe take a picture of Judy Hopps inside the vehicle?

Love the periscope with the printed tile.

Good to hear from you again, the new model looks promising! Also, best of luck with the new job!

New video works like a charm. I really like the build. Shame to hear about the compressor, pneumatics can be finicky like that.

I can't really comment on wether rebuilding it would be an advantage in this situation, but on the whole I've found that rebuilding something over and over and over again is an intrinsic part of building with Technic. It's something I've grudgingly come to terms with.

I buy most sets merely for parts. I have trouble building them once.

I don't agree. The point I was trying to make is that the proposed parts the OP wants are superfluous, because what they want can easily be done by combining existing parts. You don't need longer parts, you need to put existing parts together the right way. A longer beam alone will not solve their problem, it'll bend. Even a beam made out of a more rigid material will eventually give out if not supported. If you're building on a bigger scale, you easily have the room to connect a couple of parts together to reach the length you need. For proof: Lego consistently manages to make technic models longer than 15 studs. That's where you have a point.

You've made a very nice model, very recogniseable. I really dig the extending functionality of the drill. I'm just wondering; how well does the steering work? You've got 4 steered wheels, as opposed to 8 unsteered wheels. Doesn't seem like a lot.

The current 1 brick high bricks can be very restrictive when building tall houses. Taller bricks would be useful to avoid stacking bricks. There are already 5 brick high pieces like this, so why not any higher?

This seems like the exact thing you want: http://www.isogawastudio.co.jp/legostudio/toranomaki/en/download.html You can find more info and some screenshots on this page: http://www.isogawastudio.co.jp/legostudio/toranomaki/en/index.html

No, the best way to make it stop is to simply lock the topics. Obviously, some people can't be trusted to leave well enough alone.

I never used any sort of clutch gears. x928cx1 is strong enough to return a medium motor to its center 1:1, as can be seen , and . I've been using this solution since 2005. As long as you don't permanently keep it in the steered position you should be absolutely fine. Nevertheless, I would recommend just getting a PF Servo, as it's WAY better suited for the task.

Sorry about that, that was really condescending of me. I should've known better.

Everyone and their grandma has built a supercar at some point. And sure, it's a noble pursuit with its own challenges and rewards, but... there are so many more interesting things you can build.