Eurobricks Dukes
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About fred67

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    A builder, not a hoarder
  • Birthday 01/14/1967

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    Atlanta, GA
  • Interests
    Trains, Superhero figures, CMF.


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    USA (GA)
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  1. fred67

    Are the Creator Expert trains finished?

    Because a limited run of something is very expensive, and it interrupts the production of other, newer sets that one would assume are selling better. I love LEGO, but we can't forget TLG is a profit driven company, and it's not just about profits - it's about maximizing profits. Very rarely to they step outside the norm to appease fans like us.
  2. fred67

    [WIP] Lego monorails. [Custom Rail Systems (CRS)]

    My problem has always been how choppy and shaky the monorails have run, but that looks like it runs really smoothly - great improvements to your original! @LegoMonorailFan's solution was smooth, but limited. I still have a solution in mind, I just don't have time these days to work on it.
  3. fred67

    Mega Construx "Train Heist"

    Well, my point was not to sell you all on the MB train, but to suggest that if TLG, or some intrepid third party developer, wanted to make a killing, they could probably do it by providing something we can use to have motors and wheel sets at a standard gauge (be it O or G). That allows us to use more than a century of developments in model railroading; all the existing track, turnouts, speed regulators, couplers and decouplers, crossovers, DCC... IOW, make a motor, wheelsets, and maybe new couplers (three things) instead of five different radii of track, several variants of short track, left and right turnouts, a few different angles of crossovers, flex track, and all the other already existing things we can get from using a standard gauge. Yes, guys, I get that G gauge, for example, is expensive track - but not as much as trying to get LEGO 9V track, and it's a lot more flexible, the curves and flex track already exist - and that's the important part: it's all there for the taking, it's not some "maybe," "someday" thing - it's already there, ubiquitous, you can buy as much as you want right now. EDIT: I want to add that I have been looking, and I don't see where you can just get a generic G gauge motor, for example, that you could rig to attach LEGO to. Building something like that is beyond me, and I have very little time to devote to it.
  4. fred67

    Mega Construx "Train Heist"

    Yes - been yearning for a compatible straight rail in that gauge for some time.
  5. fred67

    Mega Construx "Train Heist"

    I wasn't expecting LEGO to do anything. Let's take @coaster, for example, and all the work he's put into making tracks, couplers, the talk about metal rail and motors.... If, instead, someone (not me) focused on making a motor that just had studs, and wheelsets, everything else would take care of itself.
  6. I was just wondering around the internet and came across this MB set. So, OK, I know this is a LEGO site, and I want to talk about LEGO, and what I think is the ideal solution to the LEGO train "problem." I would not buy this set - I don't like the figures, I wouldn't want to mix this in with my LEGO, but what I found really interesting about it is that it specifically is built to G-Gauge. I get that it's not "system" (what is, these days?) but every single problem people have related to track - be it 9V or PF, could be solved by the ubiquitous availability of standard gauge track if we only had wheel sets and motors that were easy to combine with LEGO. I would suggest O instead of G, but think about it - given an O-gauge compatible motor and wheel bases - all manner of straights, curves, flex, switches, crossovers would suddenly be (relatively cheaply) available. Also speed regulators, uncouplers, automated switches. It would just solve so many problems. Now, I've actually suggested this before, but I hadn't run across a LEGO compatible train that is supposedly a standard gauge, either. I get how it might affect ballasting and so forth, I just submit it would solve a lot more problems than it would create.
  7. fred67

    [How to:] Fix frayed wire on Lego 9v track connector

    I'm actually not enamored by this solution. First, you have the problem where the second connector is also suffering from dry-rot and losing it's insulation. This solution makes the wires going into the second connector really stiff, maybe not even flexible enough to connect. Secondly, the stiffness itself is bothersome to me, although I would prefer it over non-working trains at all, of course. I also feel like the dry rot may have gotten far enough inside to still cause a short. I admit I'm only halfway towards making them work (I need more wire), but my biggest problem was getting the 9V connector to open up. Now here's where flexibility doesn't really matter, so using this solution to fix the wires going to the 9V connector is great (and I wish I'd known before absolutely destroying both of mine trying to open them). But separating the track connectors was not that bad using a set of jewelers screwdrivers (which you can find on clearance tables at places like Ace Hardware for a couple of bucks for the whole set). I also saved the noise suppressor, although I don't know that it really matters. It's just a plastic housing for a magnet loop. No big deal to put back on. So my solution is short PF cables (like these) that have the old 9V connector on one side, and splice in new wire (I'm thinking 18 or 20 AWG) using the technique described in the OP, running it through the noise suppressor (why not?) and then having ONE wire go to each of the track connectors. I may run both through, like the original connector, but I don't know why bother (just remember to flip the polarity in between). In any event, no matter how you do it, you can at least now choose wires insulated in the color of your choosing - I will definitely make one white set for Christmas trains.
  8. fred67

    Frayed wiring on 9V Track Connectors

    Well... I already took them apart and took the wiring out. Interesting to try on my own anyway. I can make a set with white wires for the Christmas display, too.
  9. fred67

    Frayed wiring on 9V Track Connectors

    Thanks for the replies. I had already opened the track connectors and see what I can do (I ordered 22g wire, though, not 28). For the life of me, though, I cannot open the power connector. I will almost certainly break it. I think I will just buy some of the shorter PF cables (that have compatible 9V connections on one side) so that I don't have to worry about that connector.
  10. Any suggestions? I have two - both are around 20 years old. The plastic is simply dry rotted and cracking. I could go the traditional route and just wire up a connection (believe it or not, the short PF cable you can still buy will connect to the 9V speed regulator), solder directly to a track, perhaps, but I like the flexibility here. I'm wondering if anyone's replaced the wiring in theirs, and if the noise suppressor is really all that important.
  11. fred67

    1900's steam loco and cars

    Very nicely done! I agree with @Pdaitabird.
  12. fred67

    Lego vs Zuru

    I admit - I keep the sets built, and extra pieces go into a "not-LEGO" bin so that I don't mix.
  13. fred67

    How do You buy parts on Bricklink

    This post should be moved to "General Discussion." When I buy using wanted lists, I go to the "buy" page and select the wanted lists I'm interested in. I do filter by country: N.A., because of shipping, but if nobody has what I want I will expand to worldwide. If the price is below the minimum buy, I look for other stores first; if I can't find any, I see what I can do to bulk up my order. There are always basic parts that I know will be useful. I always read and follow store terms. There are other places to buy, like BrickOwl and LEGO's Shop at Home (S@H) "Pick-a-Brick" (PAB) and "Bricks and Pieces," which, for some reason, do not always offer the same parts.
  14. Well... if that's really the main issue, I think I can live with it, even if I don't agree with it. Bricklink has actually always had a lot of problems, even after the acquisition and subsequent improvements - which came along with some debatably bad decisions, too. How about BrickOwl?
  15. fred67

    Lego vs Zuru

    The "won't somebody please think of the children!" argument is only that most clone brands are far from the quality of the clutch/release that LEGO branded bricks have. I have no problem with clone brands (as long as they don't copy LEGO sets), and I actually have a few I couldn't pass up (like a USS Enterprise from Kre-O, which I still wouldn't have bought if it wasn't on Woot for a fraction of it's MSRP). So imagine a kid gets a spaceship from a cheap clone brand (some of them are actually not bad - LEGO is the best, but MB seems to have come a long way), and the ship keeps falling apart because of poor clutch? Then they get frustrated and ditch it, and think that "LEGO" (generically) sucks.