Rail Co

I would agree that 9V track (I think we need straights before curves just because of the high price for straights) is a must have for me. Even if they were in a trixbrix style of using less plastic as long as they run my trains. I'm wondering if you could even sell "blank" track pieces with grooves in the for HO or G scale track to slide into upside down to reduce costs. Can't wait for 9V track as Me-Models seem to have abandoned their company. -RailCo

where are these photos everyone is speaking of!?! -RailCo

Hey I have had my Porsche set for a few months now and still can't get my third gear to run properly. I have it motorized from the front (where that little hole looks like it was originally designed for a XL Motor). Gears 1, 2, and 4 Run very smoothly with no problems at all but when I switch to gear 3 it seems as though there is a lot of friction coming from the gears sets closest to the engine (the set of gears you had to swap for the gears to switch in order). I am curious if anyone can spot an error or reason why this happens. Sine I have motorized it in the front I cannot use the normal way of outputting the gears to the wheels so the clutch gear in the picture below is the output gear for my particular setup. 2017-12-15_02-39-54 by Rail Co, on Flickr If anyone needs for camera angles or shots to be able to help please let me know! Thanks! -RailCo

Thank you somehow I missed this when searching for fixes. Implementing the removal of the two free spinning red gears and replacing them with the normal grey gears did the trick! Now my setup is motorized without losing the engine and 3rd gear works! I have rarely had a problem with the mechanism that changes gear (only maybe 1 in 20 gear changes do I get a double engagement). Thank for your help! -RailCo

Sounds good to me! Let us know who gets the honor of reviewing the book! Thanks, -RailCo

I'd love to do a review, I haven't done a lot of reviews though so I don't expect you to pick me. If I did happen to be sent it I would do my best to make a non-biased review and I have been collecting trains for awhile now across all systems. Thanks for the opportunity, -RailCo

If you ever want to sell that motor (i.e. you fail to get it working) than PM me. -RailCo

Hello, Recently I have wanted to make a Mosaic of me and my girlfriend. I was looking around on bricklinks mosaic maker and Bright Bricks new mosaic service. I find it hard to get a decent looking Mosaic without paying upwards of $200. If I couldn't make one of us together I was also thinking of making two smaller ones with each person taking up one Mosaic. I was wondering what people had suggestions on for buying bulk bricks cheaply. How to design one using only current lego colors (if that looks decent). And what a good price is for either 1 64x64 Mosaic or 2 32x32/48x48 Mosaics would be. Thanks!

Hello, hope this is the correct forum to post this in. I was hoping someone out there could help me know if it "safe" to use the hydrogen peroxide method to "de-yellow" or restore bricks on colored bricks to their old color. I know that it works on whites and grays but has anyone tried this on other colors whether Modulex Colors or not? The bricks I am trying to restore are the Modulex red and Modulex Pink along with the Modulex Pastel-Green and Modulex Pastel-Blue. The really bad ones are the red and a few of the pink and Pastel-Blue while the Pastel-green is bearable but still needs work. I was hoping someone could help me on this. Thanks! -RailCo

Ah yes! This is something I have been wanting to test out since the day you posted a picture (some other forum post). I would love to try these out. My only suggestion for improvement is to have some way of knowing which button does what. For example the left button has a picture (or an indent if it costs more to paint/print on the button) of the track being switched from the main track while the right button would have a print of the track remaining in the straight position. I will be interested to know what the cost would be and interested to try these out. -RailCo

I might have missed it but I saw your video on YouTube and was curious what you did to be able to only remove about 4-6 things to remove the body opposed to the about 10-15 normally? Thanks! -RailCo

You've got me excited! Can't wait to see the price for these bad boys and maybe purchase some :) Good Luck with you project! -RailCo

Hello, I am trying to find a 7730 train set from the 12v era. Sure there are some on bricklink but they are a little overpriced and with shipping makes it horrendous sometimes. I was wondering if anyone had a 7730 (even if it is only mostly complete), that is willing to sell to me in the U.S. All conditions and percentage of completion offers are welcome! Thanks, -RailCo

What is that Red locomotive by the train shed? It seems to have the 7745 sort of theme or livery? I am curious if that is an alternate MOC you made? -RailCo

Well that peaks my interest to have button control! Yes, I am a little hesitant on the price but I do know that you are trying to make this affordable for everyone I wasn't trying to bash your product or anything that is just a concern I had. Great news on the button control though! I'd love to try that out! -RailCo

My only concern is the price for automating my layout. If I wanted to ONLY automate 2 switches I would have to pay $70 for the quad controller and the two swtich boxes (that isn't even including the price for the official tack), I can purchase a left and right 12v automatic switch track for $50-$60 instead and I personally think that it is more fun and enjoyable to switch the tracks whenever I want with a physical button or switch. Possibly if you guys reduce your price I would be interested. I am not saying that I think your product isn't worth that much because it has a lot of potential, I am saying it is not a price I am willing to pay for a 3D printed (not injected molded) part that is more expensive than a discontinued 30-35 year old official Lego part. Just my input, I really like the work you've done though it is very promising! -RailCo

Hi, I have been away from this topic for a little and I am confused what the production is of these switches as of now. I am really interested in these if they come at a good price point! Thanks, -RailCo

Hi DEAD1974, The all have their upsides and downsides so it is mainly what you prefer. I am going to give you all the things I think are good and bad about them and then let you decide what is best for you and what you enjoy. First I will talk about RC/PF Trains: Pros: You do not have to clean the rails because you don't have to worry about electricity conducting through them. They are very user friendly and use simple controls (they are good for kids). They are still readily available and fit in well with the whole "City" theme. You can use rechargeable batteries with them so you do not have to constantly buy batteries. Cons: A lot of the room is taken up by the battery box and receiver making it extremely difficult to make shunters/switchers, but it can be done. Rechargeable batteries can be expensive and you have to be able to get the battery box out every time you need to charge them unless you want to pay the hefty $50 for the official Lego pack. Also you have to be close enough with your remote control or you can lose connection (This I haven't had a problem with it just depends how big your layout is). Now to talk about 9v Pros: You can buy a motor, track and transformer and you are good to go, it's basically plug and play. You don't have to worry about changing batteries and have complete freedom of designing only around the motor and not bulky battery boxes and receivers. I have also never had to clean 9v track unless it was very well used. Cons: It is a lot more expensive, it is about $40 for a decent motor and anywhere from $2-$4 PER straight track. Also the wires are becoming brittle with age and the plastic coating wears a way causing short circuits. I don't know if you want me to discuss 12v or not. Hope this helps! -RailCo

Hello guys, on eBay right now I am selling (2) 40223 Lego Snowglobes and (1) Lego 21109 Exo-Suit all are starting at $20 and are ending soon. If you are interested you can bid there! Here's the link to one of the Snowglobes you can find the others by looking at the seller page on the right side of the page (on desktop): http://www.ebay.com/itm/252877675971 Thanks! -RailCo

Hello Guys! I am trying to find grease in America that would be safe to use on Lego 12v motors (from the 80s) without paying horrendous prices. I am wondering if anyone has found suitable grease in the U.S. I have had a few people tell e about ROCO 10905 but that would be $20 to have it shipped over here from Europe. Thanks -RailCo

See I don't want to use oil if possible because oil can soften plastic. -RailCo

Hello, I am reaching out to all 12v train users. I recently purchased and received a 12v train (the 7725). Unfortunately the motor is dead, I put it on the track after building the whole model and setting all the track up to find it not moving. At first I thought maybe if it hadn't run in awhile it would need a little help. That didn't work so I tried it by just connecting a wire to the motor itself and gently moved the wheels. The motor started to produce a light smoke so I immediately shut the power off and haven't tried anything since. I did see some life though at one point, it did move about 1/16 of a turn at best and I could hear it trying to move. If the seller is cooperative hopefully I can work something out with him. If not I was hoping many people on this forum could lead me in the right direction. Here is what I know about the motor: It looks to have been opened before. It is the version with the separate bogie pin. From what I can see there is some hair spun around the axles. I am wondering if I need to completely give up on the motor or if there is a way to fix or replace just the motor inside. I am really lost and would love any help that someone could give me. I looked for awhile but I haven't found a post about someone having the same problem as me. Even if someone has a broken lego casing for the motor but there electrics still work I could be interested in that as well. Thanks, -RailCo

After fiddling with it for about an hour. I was able to remove a gob of hair (nasty ) and realized that one of the axles was stuck and was able to free it. not that I have done this it sometimes moves slowly with a clicking noise and then will stop I am assuming something is rubbing up against the axle or gears to cause friction but I'm not sure. -RailCo

Hello all, I have a quick question about the BBB medium wheels. I noticed many people have made MOCs with them and have been able to make the non-flanged wheel and the flanged wheels (i.e. an 0-6-0) be right next to each other. I am not sure how people did this because my non flanged wheel is the same depth as the flanged wheels. Also, I was wondering how people put traction tires on these wheels. Thanks! -RailCo

Ah, okay thank you. -RailCo