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Found 8 results

  1. Hello All: I'm starting this topic as a way for LEGO Train fans to ask questions about sets, track compatibility, power systems, and any other questions pertaining to LEGO Trains. All are invited to participate. Edit: Please note that set discontinuation should be discussed in the appropriate thread.
  2. Redimus

    Brick built bogie details

    I'm looking for ideas for bogie details that use more than the standard side plates. I'm looking to build a rake of 7 wide BR Mk1s. At least one will have powered bogies using the standard train motor*, so it needs to be a solution that can be used with powered and none power bogies. I've tried several ideas in Studio and I'm drawing a blank at the moment, so any ideas will be gratefully received. *I might consider a Technic motor option, but I'd need a compelling reason to do so.
  3. SwengX

    LEGO Train Bogie Problem

    Hi! I built a Lego train and it has a 2-wheel bogie. If the train enters into a straight section from a curve the bogie doesn't turn back. Also, another problem is that the in a straight section I can move the bogie freely. I can't use 4-wheeled bogies, because the train that I built doesn't have that bogie in real life.
  4. paulmaglev

    9-Volt Motor Substitutes

    'ME-Models' markets metal tracks that substitute Lego's official 9-volt track, and 4D-Brix reproduces 9-volt monorail substitute parts (including track, motors, plus battery packs) as well, so why has nobody stepped up to the plate and tried to recreate/mass produce motorized 9-volt train bogies/trucks (serial number 590/70358)? A mint one currently goes for as much as 70 USD and used ones go for almost 40 USD, which is ridiculous since that's enough money to buy me food for a week.
  5. I received an order of train wheels and frames but they didn't come with the axles. Here is how to make your own metal axles. 1. You'll need 2mm diameter metal rods. You can find them at local hobby stores or online. 2. Cut the rods to 40mm in length. You can use an original LEGO metal axle for reference. 3. Smooth out the ends with a metal file or bench grinder. 4. Optional: Buffer them to a shine. It was pretty wild when the cutting disc shattered and flew everywhere. Wearing eye protection is a good idea.
  6. Government Warning: Lego Bricks were harmed in the making of this tutorial. Good evening! I recently converted my 7725 to Power Functions because I don't have a 7740 to convert to power functions. It just didn't look right on four wheels and I could not fit a technic mechanism and M motor in there... So I present the cutters guide to 6 wheel bogies. (If someone has already done this please let me know so that I can give them credit, I didn't turn up any results like this when doing a Google) 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Power functions 7725. by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Purists, please note, the lance was already broken by a careless child so I am recycling, not abusing a perfectly good piece (The 1.5 pin was just an innocent bystander. Sorry). The trick is to get the cut as close to the short end of the 1.5 pin as you can without compromising the structural integrity of the short end. You will know what I mean if you get it in the wrong spot. The effect is similar to the burning tyre rolling past Indiana Jones. Does anyone have a solution that does not involve a knife?
  7. Hi guys, I have been trying to make some trains (generally diesel) and a problem that I have always found is powering. for a steam locomotive this is usually pretty simple because of the lack of articulation but wel, bogies are articulated and motors are mounted in the build itself. my question was, how does gearing react to this? and what is the handiest for compact solutions? vertical or horizontal? with vertical you get this: lego 6L train bogie by alterlegotechnic, on Flickr how could something like this be used in a locomotive? would the motor stick loosely in the chassis and what about a vertical motor like this (http://www.brickshel...16/cam06194.jpg) will there happen something in corners? like that the would go faster or some? and with Horizontal you get this Iowa Pacific SLRG 515/518 Mechanics by wildchicken_13, on Flickr how can gearing do this? i mean the rotating bogie, what happens to the gears in it? obviously could 2 M motors be needed for a small train (around 4 cars) or will it fail? I heard something about a V2 receiver? I have a V1 (I think) and that a normal one won't be able to give enough power to both? What is better? XL or M? when will a XL be needed? so in one sentence: vertical or horizontal? what happens to gearing and what is easier when using normal motors?

    3 axle bogie powering

    What is the handiest way to power a 3 axle bogie? Im building a LKAB 6 axle locomotive and i don't know how i could power a 3 axle bogie with power functions. I have seen some designs with motors placed vertical above the bogie but i don't know how to attach something like that to a frame. And what would be the best motor to power it? Thank you for helping!