dellock6

Eurobricks Vassals
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About dellock6

  • Birthday 05/27/1975

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    technic

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  1. dellock6

    Lego GBC Wave Module

    Really cute, kudos for the idea. I like both the mechanically complex GBCs, but also the scenery ones like this!!! Any chance to have some instructions, or we have to reverse engineer it from the video? :-)
  2. dellock6

    Rainbow Wave GBC

    Ok, I finally completed the build! As I expected, tuning the different blocks without the linking gear has been a bit of a challenge, but it's doable. I found two final issues, not sure if they are related: - there is some notable friction between the coloured blocks, how have you solved it? Something like vaseline or some other grease would do it? I never applied any liquid to lego blocks so I want to be sure i'm using something that doesn't ruin them - the 24t gears, probably because of the friction, tend to pull outwards, and every 3-5 minutes I have to push them back in place, otherwise they move totally out and lose the connection with the 8t gear. I'd probably try first to ease the friction between the coloured blocks, but I'm also thinking about building an over-structure to "cage" the external gears and keep them into position. After all, once running this is the back of the solution so it would not be visible. I feel strange to be the only one posting these issues, I'm such a noob... Thanks, Luca
  3. dellock6

    Rainbow Wave GBC

    Small update, I was able to progress in the rebuild of the GBC, and I quickly tested the new "unlinked" version of the gear train, and seems to work good. Actually, syncing the different blocks is really easy, and it can be done while mounting the 24t gear, little shifting of the axle before inserting the gear in place and the entire train is all in sync. I recorded a small video, so far the friction is really low, I'll see later when adding the additional weight of the coloured pillars. Yes, I know, the first two blocks are not shifted in the video, I synced them after I recorded the video while I was inspecting the sync of the entire gear train... :-)
  4. dellock6

    Rainbow Wave GBC

    Thanks for the quick answer, I'm half-way now with the new version with the gear blocks not connected to each other, so I'm giving this option a try. I'll post some results later this week, if I have time during the week to work on it.
  5. dellock6

    Rainbow Wave GBC

    Hi, I've completed the build of this GBC but I'm having a lot of friction issues. At first, I built the entire GBC before testing it, only to find out the the engine can only push the gearing for a couple of spins before ending in a complete halt, apparently due to too much friction. I looked at the machine but I can't find a reason, the only notable thing is that the first axle out of the engine (well, the second actually, the first 10 stud long one) twists sooo much... So, I decided to detach the wave completely and rebuild it, this time testing the friction at each step. Following the instruction pages, the friction surfaces at page 47, that is as soon as I mount the second set of gears. Each gear block alone has the expected friction, but as soon as I connect two together, the insane friction shows up. I checked all the links and mounted as loose as possible all the gears and the half-bushes, none of them is tight against the liftarm. But as soon as two of them are linked together, the friction surfaces. Am I the only one facing this issue? I trying now to complete the building keeping every block separated, and I'll sync the wave only using the transmission gear, let's see how it goes. PS: a small improvement I made, on page 63 you used axle 5 for the black gears: under friction this axle moves and especially if it goes towards the inside of the machine, it's extremely hard to go and push it back into position, so I replaced it with a axle 5 with stop, with the stop on the inner part facing the back gear. Maybe if I can remove the friction it will not be needed, but seems a better way to avoid maintenance on the internal side of the machine once built. Luca
  6. Just a note, in Italian it's quattro stagioni (plural,as in seasons), not stagione,which is singular. Nice bikes!
  7. Just saw this post now, it's wonderful ! Another project I can build with my EV3 kit, thanks for sharing!
  8. dellock6

    [REVIEW] 42065 Tracked Racer

    I weighted it when I was doing some tests with the buwizz some months ago, the stock model is 599 gr:
  9. I still remember exactly that christmas of many years ago when I was probably 6 or 7 (beginning of the '80s) and I received the 8860. I kinda knew it was coming (believing in Santa was gone...) as I pestered my parents for an entire year, so I woke up probably at 6am, rushed into the living room, grabbed the pack (I knew exactly the size by the tons of times I stared at the box in the local Lego shop) and I started to build it. It was an incredible day, and even afterwards that model was one of my favorite (together with 8851). Long story short, I had my dark ages, came back to LEGO 5 years ago with 8043, and when I saw the 40th Anniversay chassis, I knew I had to build it, and I also took a chance to buy again the original 8860, as many of my original sets went away during the dark ages. After building the two cars, I know I'm totally biased because of my story, but the old one is so much better! Some notes I took: - instructions: I didn't remember how more enjoyable were the old ones until I used them again. It's not a 1000 pages book with one step for each piece, rather just 20 steps with many pieces in each step, and many times you need to look carefully at the picture to spot were a piece has to go. Also, no 1:1 scale ruler on each page where there's an axle or a beam, just a number telling you which size you need. I've read someone else in the past saying that old style instructions were not pretending that we were stupid, and I totally agree. They are not difficult, rather more challenging, and thus more funny! - technic features: the old car has a differential and adjustable seats with both recline and position operated with gears. The new one has no differential, and seats can only be moved forward and backwards manually. Where the new one is better is steering, the rotating 2x2 plates in the old one are a bit awkward and really easy to detach while playing: - size: I like both, the old one is really big, even compared with new cars: but I also like the new compact design of the new one. In general, I'm not really happy with the new one. I totally understand that using three different existing sets to make a new one has challenges and compromises to accept, and kudos go to the designer, he/she did a great job under these conditions. But as @Sariel pointed out in his review, this is meant to be a 40th Year anniversary model, and as such LEGO Technic should have deserved something more "wow". My feeling when I finished to build the new, after I built the old, was a sort of "this is it???". In comparison, Ferrari built the F40 to celebrate their 40th anniversay, something truly special. This new 8860 gives me the feeling of something cheap and done in a hurry just to "do something". A feeling I don't like. We still have half year to wait for some true celebrating flagship set, and in a way I hope there's somewhere a secret special set besides those announced for the second half, otherwise if this is THE celebration set, I'll be really disappointed. Who cares the special 3L liftarm, give me a special set.
  10. dellock6

    Excavator family

    Nice family there, I love excavators! Be aware, a old uncle is watching... :)
  11. dellock6

    Purism

    Interesting post Erik, and yes I thought about it. First, I'm not interested too much into perfect model shaping, I'm ok with models that do not perfectly resemble the real thing, as I'm much more interested in the "technic" aspect of a construction. I agree with you on the beauty of the challenge of building something and limiting ourselves to just real Lego parts, and so far the only thing I've allowed myself is a buwizz device. Why? Because as much as I'm eager to learn new technic tecnique, I was eager to learn what would have been possible by using this device on an RC model. I'm not interested in custom parts just because they are better than Lego ones, like rims for example. I can re-use one thousand times the ones I have from my Lego sets. Truth said, I mostly do MOD, not MOC, so maybe my opinion is biased by this.
  12. Lovely!!! Liked but the MODs and the video. I have both the set and the buwizz, now I totally need to get my hands on a better motor than the stock one :) PS: what music is the second one? Shazam is failing to identify it but as a metal lover myself I'd like to get it. Luca
  13. dellock6

    What would a (S) Small PF motor look like?

    I see the need for this type of motor in many builds, but even more I'd like to see a way smaller servo motor. Servo can be used to control little movements like doors, trunks etc, but the servo motors makes the design of these parts very complicated, as every attempt to make everything compact is ruined by the size of the motor. Servo operations sometimes don't need to much torque, so a smaller motor would surely help.
  14. I just completed the "buwizz-ment" of my 42065, and I must say the device has a huge potential, probably limited by the app mainly, plus a couple of design limits. First, the pros: surely the weight and size, one picture (well, a layout of 4 to be honest) is worth a thousand words: Even counting the additional pieces to lock the buwizz, it's still 136 gr less than the original build, and a lot of saved space! Here comes one of the issues, that are the holes to insert pins into. I guess that the inside of the buwizz is pretty packed, but some additional holes would have helped. The other issue is the app, it's still pretty limited, I was able to use the bulldozer profile but I would like to see for example the option to group the two motors in the same joystick rather than using the two sliders. But even now, the fine selection of the power, and the range it has are really amazing.
  15. dellock6

    Hardest Technic set to build?

    I finally got my hands on a 8851 as I'm trying to rebuild my old collection back in the days, and if by hard we also mean the issues we may face, well some of the latest axles that need to be inserted in the middle of the body, and even more the studs that we are supposed to use to lock that axles, it's damn hard to build. I had to rip apart a side of the body to properly mount them. I didn't remember it was so troublesome, or probably when I was 9 at the time of the release of the 8851 I had smaller fingers, that would have helped for sure :)