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Found 171 results

  1. Recently we have seen quite a few PF Controllers popping up. Some more interesting than others. This project was launched on Kickstarter today and I think it's worth sharing. Since we are not fond of people promoting their Kickstarter or LEGO Ideas on Eurobricks, I have taken the liberty to promote this project myself. Kickstarter description A compact, high performance remote control system for LEGO® models. With embedded battery, precise servo control and huge power. Technical information BuWizz is a four channel high performance controller for LEGO® Power Functions, with embedded battery and a Micro-USB charging port. Paired over Bluetooth with smartphone or tablet, BuWizz is compact yet powerful. BuWizz: has 4 channels can be charged with any Micro-USB charger - even with a powerbank while you drive your model.- has several speed modes: in fast mode, the motors receive 2x more power than other solutions with LEGO batteries - enables great speed or better obstacle climbing - in slow mode, the PF servo motor can move very slow - for realistic motion of railway crossing gates, convertible roof, etc. can drive 2 XL motors on each channel in high speed mode- delivers 8 times more power (4 channels combined) than any solution with LEGO battery- is compact: 8x4x3 bricks size, 2x IR receivers footprint replaces battery box + 2x IR receivers can be embedded deep into your model - all you need is access to Micro-USB charging port powerful enough for large models, yet small enough to build a very compact model Dimensions It has the same dimensions as the rechargeable battery, which is quite convenient. Controls Example implementations Kickstarter Check out the project on Kickstarter Reviews Sariel has received a copy and he is quite enthusiastic. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdPduWEk7H4 I will receive a copy soon, after which I will share my thoughts.
  2. Here's a fun little project I came up with while trying to find a way to build the smallest AWD model with independent suspension. Having found a solution I decided to build a representation of the awesome Audi S1 e-tron using a 3D STL file purchased online. I set myself the following functionality and features as goals: All Wheel Drive Proper independent suspension on all wheels Each wheel powered by one BW motor Working steering wheel Detailed interior with proper seats and details Easy access to the 2 BW bricks powering and controlling the model Deisgn the body to be accurate to the 3D reference, yet robust Part count of 1200 or less With the goals set, I came up wih this prototype in LDD: The next photo is showing just how close the model is following the reference 3D model in green: And here's the model in real life, built out of exactly 1200 pieces: I took full advantage of the new micro panels, so there are almost no flat/straight surfaces in the model: Finally the belly photo showing how I used brick-built CV joints in order to keep suspension and drive system as narrow as possible. And yes, those are rings from LOTR sets I will post better photos and a video as usual when I find the time. For now I can say that this thing has a really high power-to-weigh ratio and it can easily spin all wheels when accelerating.
  3. This model (and it's prototypes) are a result of the following topics: Basically the idea behind this project is to make an offroader capable of driving on all kinds of terrain with a simillar perofrmance as the Wildcat 6x6 but having a lower weight So, why would I want to reduce the weight? While the wildcat 6x6 works great most of the time, it's high weight of 2,5-3 kg has some drawbacks: The model requires a lot of expensive electronics (12 BuWizz motors, 6 BuWizz 3.0 bricks) High part count (1869 pieces) Tendecy of front wheels falling off at hard landings High wear and tear of the individual components, which lead to premature failure - planetary hubs, CV joints And lastly high wear and tear of the handler due to it's heavy weight Of course decreasing the weight also means decreasing the power to weight ratio, since there will always be components which are needed regardless of the number od drive motors like wheels, hubs, steering system, suspension and frame. The first protoype, which I simply call Light 4x4 used only 2 BuWizz motors coupled to a 2 speed gearbox: While the model worked good in low gear, the high gear proved much trickier. The single gearbox put a lof of strain on the drive axle in high gear, causing it to melt, even with lubrication. Another issue was the high load of the motors in high gear, resulting in them overheating, while the motor could not even remotely apporach the 15 km/h top speed of the Wildcat 6x6. But not all was bad, I really liked the free-moving front suspension which acts like a suspended pendular axle, while having a much lower unspring weight. While I could make the rear suspension act like a pendular axle instead off front, i decided agaisnt it, since most of the weight is shifted back when crawling and I wanted to keep the rear stable. With that knowledge, I went back to the drawing board and decided to up the power for the next version... Medium 4x4 prototype: This version used 4 BuWizz motors coupled in a manner simillar to my 1:10 Acura NSX which negates the sideways load on the output axle of the gearbox. As you can see, this version was quite bigger and it used the reinforced differentials. The increased power drastically improved the performance, the top speed and overall power being simillar to the Wildcat 6x6. BUT the model had a few problems, main being the exposed gearbox which would get clogged and jam while driving outside. This version was aslo wider compared to the first prototype. Medium version prototype 2: This is another concept where the entire front axle is designed to pivot, but I ultimately decided to go agaisnt it due to the higher center of gravity and higher unspring mass. The final, universal 4x4 model: I have built and tested the model, but have yet to make any media, that's why I'm using LDD photos for now. I had to way to make the model more ingress resistant and narrower. This is where I came up with the idea of using the new, reinforced differentials as 28 tooth clutch gears for the high gear of the gearbox: This way the gearbox's output axle was moved a stud lower, allowing me to cover the bottom of the model with panels which prevent the dirt from getting into the gearbox without sacrificing ground clearance: The model inherited the front axle from the prototypes which acts like a free pendular axle. This keeps the weight even on both side of the suspension sosimple open differentials sufficed without a need for lockers. The gear ratios are a bit of a compromise comapred to the Wildcat 6x6, with low gear being 0,89x the ratio and high gear being 0,83x the ratio. Even with these differences, the model still reaches a very simillar speed in high gear, probably due to lower friction losses and lower rolling resistance. All in all I think this is a worthy successur to the Wildcat 6x6, even though it may not be as flashy, massive or functional (no skid steering). Final part count is 774 pieces which is 41% od the Wildcat 6x6 and the weight has been reduced to around 1,4 kg - around half of the Wildcat 6x6. I will be creating a proper in-depth video about the finished models and the protoypes, so I suggest you to watch this space for more upcoming details.
  4. Inspired primarily by the Opel Manta 400, I've made my own RWD rally car. It features independent front suspension, and a rear live axle using the big ball joint and a metal U-Joint. Its propelled by 4 buwizz motors and steered by one C+ L motor. Some late WIP photos Earlier WIP photos Problems Because of the narrow wheelbase and relatively high center of mass due to high up buwizz units, the model easily rolls when driving at high speed and cornering. I was lazy with the design of the suspension; the front is too soft and the steering is inaccurate because I am using Instead of the newer parts with longer arms for steering links. This allowed me to fit the wheels inside the body, though. The rear suspension is too hard primarily because I got lazy and wanted it done, after about 8 hours on the model I was getting bored. The bodywork has some parts that could be white if I had the parts in white, but those parts are quite small. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. As of right now I still have the model assembled. Thank you for reading.
  5. BrickController2 is an Android and iOS application that allows you to control your Lego models using a compatible gamepad. It supports the following devices: - SBrick - BuWizz 1-2 - BuWizz 3 (basic support) - Lego Powered-Up devices: Boost, PUP HUB and Technic HUB (or Control+) - PF infrared (on Android devices having infrared emitter). Features: - Multiple profiles for a single creation - Multiple motor (or output) assignment to a single controller event - Different types of devices can be used at the same time - The same motor (or output) can be assigned to multiple controller events - Different joystick characteristic settings - Different button modes: normal button, simple toggle, ping-pong toggle, carousel toggle, ... - Train mode on joysticks - Normal and servo mode for the new Control+ motors - Sequences (like for flashing light) BrickController 2 on the Google Play Store: BrickController2 android BrickController 2 is also available on the Apple App Store. BrickController2 iOS Video tutorial created by @kbalage (many thanks for this): And another great video by @kbalage: Older versions: BrickController Android application. It lets you to control Lego creations via Lego infra-red, SBrick and BuWizz V1 and V2 using any Android compatible game controller: Current version: BrickController 0.6 User guide: BrickController User Guide Minimum system requirement: Android 4.4 and bluetooth low energy support on the phone (or tablet) Video on the older SBrickController application:
  6. Many people have been asking me for a simple, easy-to build and most importantly cheap Off-Roader. When I started this project, I've set myself the following guidelines: Use a single BuWizz 3.0 and "only" 2 BuWIzz drive motors Implement a 2 speed gearbox Maximize the ground clearance by using a pendular axle (this way the independent suspension doesn't have to loose ground clearance when going over obstacles) The model has to be built from under 500 parts All the parts have to be standard and in current production Keep the number of different parts as low as possible Use color coding to simplify the building process Design the model so that it can easily be modified by other builders Create proper building instructions And this is what I came up with in the end: I managed to successfully realize the all the planned functionality, features and more: All wheel drive 2 speed gearbox Pendular front axle Independent suspension on all wheels Openable doors for easy acces to the charging port Interior with seats and a steering wheel The dimensions and specs are as following: Built out of ~460 parts 27 x 20 x 13 cm ~ 850 grams Top speed of 7 km/h As usual there's a video showcasing the model in more detail: But just building the model and recording the video was only half the story. I also taught myself how to create the building instructions using the Studio which can be found here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Zblj/simple-off-roader Since these are my first such instructions, they may not be ideal... So in a case of any issues, confustion, or such I also uploaded the .IO and .LXF files which can be found in the corresponding Bricksafe folder: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Zblj/simple-off-roader All in all this was a great learning experience, I'm always happy to learn a new skill and being able to create my own instructions sure is a good skill to have as a LEGO builder. To conclude; using this as a base, I wonder what kind of tweaks, improvements and crazy mods other builders will come up with!
  7. After several years I am back! My latest MOC is Lego telehandler based on CAT TL642. Since it is not an exact reproduction I decided to change name and logos. Buwizz and iPad are used to control it remotely. There are four motorized functions: drive with PF L motor, boom elevation with PF L motor, fork tilt with M motor, and steering with PF servo. Front wheels are driven through a differential, and the rear axle has a simple suspension. Overall, it is maneuverable, easy to operate thanks to the proportional control of Buwizz, and very fun to play with. Please check out my flickr and https://www.flickr.com/photos/marat_andreev/ my instagram www.instagram.com/legomarat/ Interior controls are made with stickers Also I found a nice reflective sticky paper to make mirrors
  8. After building the 1:8 scale Spano GTA, I wanted to make something more compact, yet even more functional for the BuWizz camp 2021, which got postopned to 2022. The rules behind this model stated to build a 1:10 scale representation of a real existing car, which has to have a working gearbox, fake engine and working steering wheel. After researching different types of super and hypercars, I chose the Acura/Honda NSX since it had several good pros compared to the more famous brands like Ferrari or Lamborghini: The real car has a smaller profile, which means a lower weight It uses a hybrid AWD system, which would come in handy for the LEGO model for accelerating and braking on all wheels Engine powering is a V6, which doesn't take as much space as the typical V8, V10 or even V12 Since it's a less known supercar, my LEGO version could be the first one in such scale I used a simillar technique as with Spano GTA where I imported the 3D model into the Lego Digital Designer and used it as a 3D reference. Using this technique I ended up with a really close representation, and it really shows: As you can see in the gif above, not only does the model look very good, it's also full of functionality: 4x BuWizz motors for driving All wheel drive 2 Speed gearbox Working fake V6 coupled directly to the drive motors Working steering wheel 2x BuWizz 3.0 for control Double wishbone suspension on all wheels Dimensions and weight ended up as following: Length: 45 cm Width: 20 cm (without mirrors) Height: 12.5 cm Weight: cca 1,5 kg Here is how the model's underside looks like, drive motors are driving two independent gearboxes in order to evenly spread the mechanical load. This kind of a setup also cancels out any side forces on the central drive axle, thereby reducing friction and wear: In order to cram all the powertrain components in the rear the drive motors are placed in a V shape. This way there is just enough space between them for a functional V6 engine and a PU medium motor which switches the gearbox: Thanks to the compact powerline and driveline, the interrior is very spacious and both seats are almost 1:8 scale sized, measuring 6 studs wide. There are even stoppers and interrior details on the doors themselves: ž The end performance of the model is higher than what I expected, there is enough torque to freespin all 4 wheels, jump over ramps and top speed in high gear is almost 20 km/h! You can see how well it performs the video: To conclude, this is my first 1:10 scale supercar which also ended up extremely compact, functional, robust and good looking. I also think a 1:10 scale may be beneficial when it comes to reliability and robustness, since models tend to weight half the weight of their 1:8 counterparts while still incorporating a simillar level of functionality and details. Having said that, this will not be my last 1:10 supercar and I think for the next one I will ditch the gearbox and simply drive the wheels directly from the motors without any weak differentials.
  9. Hi guys, I’ve been following the forum for some years not, but I’ve been mostly a “lurker in the dark”. But, after 2.5 years designing and building when I had some spare time, I can finally share my 1:20 crawler crane MOC with you. For now it has somewhere around 40.000-60.000 parts (don’t know exactly how many). I’ve tried to build it as close as possible to a real crane in terms of assembly and functionality, with the usual constrains that you have with building out of Lego at this size and scale. As a disclaimer (and as a direct apology to Lego purists), the slewing bearing is not lego, but a cross roller bearing. The drive of the bearing is Lego, using the ¼ gear racks from the 42055 BWE. Took me about 6 monts to find a bearing that fits in size with the internal gearing of the gear racks, so that the driving axles still fit trough. Also, if you look really close, there were some occasions where I got out the Dremel for some adjusting (mainly panels), as I didn’t want to sacrifice strength, or design. Again, sorry to the purists. The crane is powere by 4 BuWizz, one in each central counterweight (between the crawlers), and one in each superstructure counterweights. I love the fact that you can still operate the BuWizz while it’s charging, so I have a power bank battery next to each BuWizz. Like this you get hours and hours of play time even with a large heavy model like this. The drive is as follows: - Each crawler is powered by 4 PF XL Motors (and one BuWizz per crawler) geared down 240:1. The motors don’t drive the ends of the crawler, but 8 sets of 2 gears underneath each of the crawler chassis. Due to weight reasons I used metal axles from Eezo’s Brick Machine Shop from the US. -Slewing is done again by 4 PF XL Motors which sit in the base of the superstructure. - Each winch is driven by a PF L motor. They were powered by 2 PF L motors, but because the winches are worm-driven I had some issues with them not running synchronous and overloading the motors. The winches can be individually taken out from the superstructure for maintenance and use 1mm wax rope. Structurally the main building technique for the crawlers, undercarriage and superstructure is an array of 5x7 technic frames. I’ll come back on another post with some pics of the various building techniques and technical details. Maybe I’ll also do a more detailed video on this sometime soon. The crane is not finished yet. I still need to build the superlift tray and telescope, which will be EV3 controlled so that it self-adjusts, and sadly I need to rebuild all the boom. Until a main boom length of 4.5m everything is ok, but with more than that it starts to bend too much. In the video below I’ve build 4m of boom, because it was pretty windy when we shot the video. The goal would be 7m someday. I want to keep the boom in the main boom+short fixed jib configuration. A luffing jib would be easier to lift (most large Lego cranes that I saw are built in a luffing jib configurations), but as I work in wind turbine assembly, I want to build the boom configuration that we use mostly. Here some pictures from the assembled crane: https://www.flickr.com/photos/164584645@N03/ And here a video about the crane (without wanting to advertise for the channel) As mentioned before, I’ll follow-up with some more pics from the building phase and building techniques. I hope you guys like the crane.
  10. This is my attempt at building a proper and most importantly; fun to drive ripsaw with somewhat realistic performance. The 8 buggy motors and 4 BuWizz seem to do the trick.. I tried to replicate as much as i could from the original design, obviously the drive-train works differently; the real EV1 has 1 motor with a clutch system in the rear differential to power the tracks from the rear alone, which i did try to replicate by adding the fake V8 and rear diff, which does function, but i disconnect it most of the time while drive outside because it has a habit of getting jammed by leaves, rocks and twigs, the gears used to connect to the fake V8 are all exposed. Here the sprockets are powered in the front and rear and each is connected directly to the slower output of 2 buggy motors, giving this thing crazy speed and torque. The suspension is set up like the real EV1 and works fine, but does require a track tension system, the real thing has a suspended front sprocket to keep tension on the tracks, in this case it would mean loosely suspended buggy motors, an idea i did not like and did not try, yet. I am using a simple lever, spring and wheels to keep tension on the track but it works fine and looks ok. For the body i tried to capture the look and feel of the real thing, using as little as possible panels and using beams for the boxy look with just the exposed framework seemed the right thing to do, i am sure it is filled with illegal connections, i go by the rule: "if it fits without force, it fits". The body is surprisingly solid, it can be lifted from several positions and it can take some abuse from driving, and abused it, i have.. The are 2 seat for Technic figures and the electrical wiring functions nicely as a seat-belt for them. I have added 2 sets of LED's on the top bar, i do not think the real EV1 had that, but it seemed the most "natural" position to me and it works nicely since they are aimed down a bit. And here you can see it in action! please leave a like if you can and help out my tiny channel: I hope you like it!
  11. I've been starting on the bodywork and have added a quick clip of a flush mounted door mechanism. I'll periodically add bits until it's done, enjoy (Above pic is a link to video) This is my current supercar WIP. It has fully independent suspension, torsion bar, cantilevered front, typical rear, and sway bars. steering with attached steering wheel one servo, drive 2x XL, custom miniature V12 engine on an AWD chassis with a remote driven four speed sequential gearbox powered by an M motor. Race jacks with remote compressor, adjustable rear wing, tilt steering wheel, pedals with feedback, adjustable with single lever tilt and slide seats. Photos: https://flic.kr/s/aHskUraaNt Flush mounted door hinge operation by Dugald Cameron, on Flickr Let me know what you think! Video edit and teardown to follow!
  12. Hi, It lasted a bit, but I managed to finish this project and here I am. I would like to share with you my latest MOC - Armored Trophy Truck. It was designed mostly to test new Buwizz 3.0 unit and Buwizz motors. I also wanted to increase my own experience in building fast MOCs this time. As there are many trophy trucks out there created by many great builders I tried to take some different approach. So to protect cabin and motors, I put armor on my creation :) Thanks to panels both motors and cabin are protected from dirt, dust and stones. I also added roll cage to protect the driver. More details and presentation how fast this truck is you can check on the video below. Instructions are free of charge, I hope many of you will be able to build it and have fun playing with it outdoors as I did. Link: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-94026/keymaker/armored-trophy-truck-rc/#details Details and main functions: • dimensions LxWxH: 36x16x14.5 cm • weight: 1.22 kg • RWD drive (2xBuwizz motors) • steering (C+ L motor) with positive caster • double wishbone suspension at front • live axle suspension at rear • additional suppressors in rear suspension to protect frame during high jumps • high ground clearance • front, rear and whole truck chassis are protected against dirt, dust and stones • roll cage • rear wheels are connected via portal hubs - gear ratio can be adjusted More photos: https://bricksafe.com/pages/keymaker/9.-armored-trophy-truck
  13. This is an expansion, upgrade and update of the Tiger 4 x 4 x 4 The idea was to improve certain aspects of the 4x4 version: 1. The bewel gears were the weak part of the driveline, so the 6x6 uses additional 12:20 gearing after bewel gears, increasing available torque by 67% 2. Adding a second rear axle additonally helps to spread the load while climbing, increasing available overall torque by another 50%, allowing for a total of 2,5x more torque than 4x4. 3. Using defender wheels, and self-built hubs the pivot point is now a stud closer to the steering wheel and steering angle is increased from 18 to 25-30 degrees, removing the need for rear steering. 4. Center section was widened by 2 studs, allowing both gearboxes to be placed in parallel and the steering servo motor low in the center. Total gear reduction has been increased to 1:5 in high gear and 1:15 in low gear. Gear switching mechanism is now faster and more reliable. 5. Suspension is now pendular with a shock absorber in front and tandem axles with shock absorbes in the back. This allows the suspension to smoothly adjust to the terrain at slow speeds without wasting energy compressing the shock absorbers. At high speeds the shock aborbers smooth out the ride. In the picture below you can see the blue 1x7 beams which swing and allow the front suspension to act like pendular: 6. The model now has working fake engine(s) and steering wheel.I'm thinking of adding a hook arm with a winch in the back, so I can use this model to pull others out during trial truck races 7. Number of motors have been reduced by removing rear wheel steering and having one motor for the gearbox, allowing to add aditional functions as before mentioned hook arm. So...that's all about it for now, I'm only missing defender wheels to finish this monster. Yes it's going to be heavier and slower, but I expect it to be even more capable and reliable.
  14. Hey folks, I want to share with you one of my current projects, the RC Superbikes. It is another of those self-balancing motorcycles, but has some nice additional specs which might have considered to not work in the brick-universe. Unluckily I couldn't finish the superbike project this summer, final highspeed runs will have to take place in the next summer to have some warm tarmac again for giving some additional grip. RC Superbike Series - FREE Chassis - RELEASED in v1.0: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-150157 Specs Scale 1/6.5 Weight ~650g Single swingarm construction for the rear wheel Working transmission via chain Powered by Buwizz 3 Two buggy motors 1x Custom 5L Liftarm made out of aluminium with a ballbearing included Theoretical topspeed should be astonnishing 62 km/h, basing on the 2500 rpm with BW3 at 12V peak (which by its scale would translate into 403 km/h) Real world maximum speed may be lower due to physics kicking in (wobble, weave) Pictures All together Kawasaki H2R - black/chrome Kawasaki H2R - white/green (tuned BuWizz Edition) Ducati Panigale V4R Honda CBR1000RR FireBlade Videos Videos related to the RC Superbike Series can be found in my Youtube playlist: What are your thoughts?
  15. I don't usually post my work projects here, but every so often there is a special one that I really want to showcase more in detail. Today I want to show you one of my all-time favourite projects, which is packed both full of functionality and a very high level of detail. Before we go into the details, lets' first let's talk about the idea behind it. We (the BuWizz team) have been cooperating with Slovenian AMZS (Slovenian Automobile Association) for a while now and they are the ones who allow us to record the various speed breaking and such events on their polygon. An idea emerged for a project to design and loose replica of their existing Tow Truck which is to be used for education purposes. Here's how one of their tow truck looks like: I decided to use this specific model as an inspiration of my representation and here were the basic starting functions and features: 1:10 scale Capable of lifting and towing an actual 1:10 model like 42125 All Wheel drive Working gearbox Realistic suspension Highly detailed As with most of my projects, i first started working in LDD and this is what the first prototype looked like: I took some liberty with the shape, notably I removed the crew compartment in order to better the lift arm details. As the project progressed, so did the amount of functions, features and details until I ended up with this long list: Motorized with 11 motors Powered by 2 BuWizz 3.0 Pro bricks All wheel drive powered by 4 BuWizz motors Working gearbox with a high and low gear 3 differential locks Independent suspension in the front Solid rear axle in the back which uses 3x13 curved panels as leaf springs Working V8 engine connected to the drive motors Functioning steering wheel linked to the steering rack Motorized lift which can unfold, raise and lock onto thr wheels of the towed vehicle A motorized winch in the rear Working front LED lights Opening doors, hood and compartments Detailed engine bay with battery, air filter and washer fluid Compartments filled with details such as fuel canisters and various tools Other details include cones and fire extinguishers 3D printed braking discs in the front for show Total piece count is around 3060 parts Just over 3 kilograms 51 cm x 24 cm x 22 cm when folded excluding mirrors Capable of lifting and towing a 1:10 scale car like 42125 even up a steep hill Top speed of 10 km/h Here's an overview of the model and the basic mechanical functions: Driveline is powered by 4 BuWizz motors. The motors drive a 2 speed gearbox and a fake V8 engine: Gearbox is powered by a PU M motor and uses 2 mini linear actuators to switch between low, neutral and high gear: Each of the 3 differentials has it's own lock, actuated by a wave selector and powered by a PU M motor: Steering system is powered by a PU L motor and uses two steering racks in order to both steer the wheels and turn the steering wheel: Finally, there are several more PU M motors used to power the rear arm. The main actuators lift the whole arm and are powered by 1 PU M motor: Another PU M motor is used to unfold the lower part of the lift arm using 2 mini linear actuators: Finally another PU L motor is used to lock the wheels with two more mini linear actuators. The driveline is designed in such way that the arm can swing a bit while cornering: The lifting arm had to be designed to be as strong as possible, yet thin enough to slide under the car we want to tow. The final version was under 2 studs high and capable of lifting a 2 kilogram heavy model with ease: With all the details finalized and the parts omptimized in the LDD version, it was time to build the real deal: As mentioned above, the model is full of details that can be accessed by opening the various compartments: The rear view showing the folded tow arm and the 2 large actuators used to lift it: Few more pictures of the model next to the real deal: Of course no Technic photoshoot wouldn't be complete with the most important photo of them all, the underside: The underside was left open and exposed intentionally, so that the gearbox, the differential locks and steering system can be observed. Of course as with all the projects, this one also had some issues, the biggest being the use of 3x11 curved panels as the rear leaf springs. Originally only a single pair was used to support the weight in the rear and the additional load of a towing vehicle, but it soon proved too much for them and over time they ended up breaking. That is why for the final fix, they were doubled, to increase the stiffness and durabilty of the rear axle: Other than this, there were no other major issues with the model. The driveline has yet to skip a gear, the joints are holding (even the small CV joint used in the front left side) and the model ended up being robust enough for some really rough driving. As mentioned at the start of the topic, this is one of my best models to date, I'm really happy with the amount of sheer functionality, features and details I managed to cram in it and it will forever hold a special place in my heart. To wrap up this already long topic, here's a couple of videos of it in action:
  16. Hi everyone! I'd like to share my new motorization project. This time I've modified Bugatti 42151: BuWizz 2.0 receiver as a power source, BuWizz-motor for rear-wheel drive and PF servo-motor for steering. As usually I tried to keep the original look of the set as much as possible and it was unexpectedly difficult to place all the electronic components. The main problem is a width of the model - the inner space between doors is only seven stud wide, so it's impossible to place the receiver between the doors as it's eight stud long. So I've ended up with pretty unconventional receiver placement. You can find details and test-drive in my video: Thanks for watching :)
  17. Hi, I would like to present my newest creation – off-road truck Gaz 66. It is my interpretation of small, old and very popular truck, which has a lot of off-road capability. Someone can ask why next similar small scale off road truck? I would say I like this type of vehicles, the scale and challenges they bring. And with every build I try to test something new, which I wasn't try before. Here the main goal was to go below standard for those wheels width of the model - 15 studs and prepare narrower axles than standard - 11 studs ones. Which I did. Gaz 66 has 13 studs width body with 9 studs (from rim to rim) front axle - stereed and driven. Thanks to that size of the body is more proportional to used wheels. And you can also use tractor tires provided with cargo for even better effect (you can see such modification in real Gaz 66 on one of polish off-road YT channel - LINK). I also tried to add as many details related to real truck as possible, in this scale, I hope there are here some fan of original Gaz 66 and they will recognise some elements I added. Below you can find video and list of features and details. Enjoy. Instructions: LINK General details scale: 1:20 dimensions LxWxH: 30x10,5x12,5cm weight: 946g Features: RC front axle steering (C+ L motor) RC 4x4 drive (C+ L motor) RC winch with place to lock the hook (C+ L motor) 4-link live axle suspension for all 4 wheels three studs ground clearance (with "KrAZ" tires) openable doors and easy access to spare tire working V8 engine with fan located in cabin, plus grill via which working engine can be watched detailed two seats cabin powered by Buwizz 3.0 but also prepared to be powered by standard C+ Hub can operate with "KrAZ" tires included in cargo Photos: LINK My Gaz 66 is powered by Buwizz 3.0, but there is no problem to use standard C+ Lego battery box: Internals of the MOC, so drivetrain connected with V8 engine, steering and the winch:
  18. Finally finish front bumper and fully tested. So I made box art. This is original model's box art. Without bumper, I added ARE YOU HOT plate on backside of wing. Final model spec 2 Buwizz 3.0 2 Buwizz motor with 4WD drive 1 C+ L motor for front steering Monoshock both front and rear like original model 3 speed gear ratio can choose while building(include in instruction) 4.2:1, 1.96:1, 1.4:1 Instruction link
  19. Hey everyone! After almost a year and a half of working on it whenever I had time, my model of a Unimog U5000 truck is finally complete. It has the following functions: 4x4 Drive with 2 PF XL motors Steering with PF M motor and linear actuator Remote diff locks, front and back, using pneumatic actuators Remote 2-speed high-torque gearbox BuWizz power More photos on my BrickSafe: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Teo_LEGO_Technic/unimog-trial-truck The whole idea of this model was to build a truck that could both travel at a fairly fast speed as well as work very well offroad, which meant it needed a gearbox. It also meant it needed differential locks so that turns could be taken smoothly at high speed with diffs unlocked, and offroad terrain could be tackled better with diffs locked. The main goal of this model was to create a drive train that wouldn't allow any gear slippage or breaking even under tension in low gear. My solution for this was to use @Sariel's heavy-duty gearbox (http://sariel.pl/2011/02/2-speed-heavy-duty-linear-gearbox/), as well as the new differentials from the 43109 Top Gear car. However even those differentials can't take as much torque as I wanted to put on them, and neither can the universal joints leading to the axles. For this reason, I decided to speed up the transmission before reaching the universal joints and differentials to reduce torque, then slow it back down afterwards between the diffs and the wheels. This would cause a bit of power loss to friction due to the increased number of gears, but it would reduce the torque on the sensitive components and allow me to send more total torque to the wheels. The result is that the 2 powerful XL motors are sped up 5.01 times or 1.8 times (in high and low gear respectively) before reaching the diffs and universal joints, and then slowed down 11.67 times at the wheels. Therefore the final gear ratios in low and high gear are as follows: High gear - 2.33 : 1 Low gear - 6.5 : 1 The result is that the drivetrain is indestructible and never breaks even when run with a BuWizz on ludicrous mode and the wheels come to a standstill. The most complicated part of this build was fitting all of the functionality in the front axle - linear actuator steering placed close to the pivot to increase the range of motion, lots of gear reduction, portal axles, and a differential locking mechanism. Although the result is quite good in my opinion - thanks @Zerobricks for the custom portals - the final construction wasn't as sturdy as I would have liked, and this was the main issue with the final model. The steering has less power than I would have liked with the small actuator, and the custom portal axles bend outwards under pressure when steering over rugged terrain. Overall however I'm quite satisfied with the final result Thanks also to @functionalTechnic for the advice, and to everyone else who contributed to the WIP thread: Enjoy! - Teo
  20. squall87

    [Moc] The Lego Fire Station

    Hi everyone. I show you my project of a fire brigade barracks. The first three renderings date back to March 2016. It took me a few months to recover all the necessary pieces. Over time there have been several changes, including the addition of a courtyard with several other small buildings and a maneuvering castle (the building that use firemen to practice). The original idea was to replicate an existing barracks located near where I live, in fact, soon the project was transformed into something certainly simpler trying to bring together in the same building an office area and a car storage area. Currently I'm working (through stud.io 2) to version 3.0 of the barracks, you see the first renderings in the last two photos in this topic. Version 2.0 was made with the use of a Sbrick, I leave videos demonstrating how it works. And next next step... Fire Station 4.0 powered up by PFX Brick. Fire Brigade by Ario Gaviore, su Flickr Fire Station by Ario Gaviore, su Flickr Fire Station by Ario Gaviore, su Flickr Fire Station 3.0 by Ario Gaviore, su Flickr Fire Station 3.0 by Ario Gaviore, su Flickr
  21. Here's a model I actually completed a year ago in order to be unveiled in time for the BuWizz picnic back in 2021, but we all know how things went... Anyway since the picnic did happen last weekend, I decided to unveil my most powerful offroader. The basic design is based on the Wildcat 4x4, but this version adds more power, a 2 speed gearbox and a third axle to the formula. As with the older version, each axle has independent suspension, plus the entire axle can pivot or swing, effectively giving this model double suspension setup. Indepedent suspension is great at absorbing small bumps when driving quickly, while the axles pivot along the terrain when crawling. The driveline was quite a challenge. In order to transmit the power from 12 motors to the wheels, each wheel ended up having it's own dedicated 2 speed-gearbox. The final driveline is extremely compact and efficient, with only 3 gears engaged at any given time. There are also no differentials or perpendicular drives, so nothing that can break or skip. Each gearbox is actuated by a PU M motor using worm gears, which prevent any unwanted skipping out of the gear. This way each wheel is powered by 2 BuWizz motors via a dedicated gearbox: The following gif shows how the front axle is designed along with the whole model: Here you can wee, how the front axle tilts in order to adjust to the terrain: The rear axles are made in the same way as the front axles, minus the steering. Rear axles are also designed to work in tandem, when one goes up, the other goes down. When one tilts left, the other tilts right. This way the rear suspension is extremely flexible: And finally here are some specs of this beast: Length: 52 cm Width: 26 cm Height: 20 cm Weight: 2,5 kg Top speed: 15 km/h (rounded up) To complete the presentation, here's a video of the model in action, a big thanks out to @braker23, @Sariel and @kbalage for the footage. Final thoughts... this is my most potent offroader to date. The sheer amount of power, torque and speed is hard to wrap your mind around for a model made entirely of small plastic pieces. Having said that, I think there are still few areas to improve: Tendency of the front wheels to fall off at hard bumps - A lighter version would help to reduce stress on the hubs and wheels. Could use a higher steering angle - Would have to find a way to integrate steering racks inside the transaxles. Protection againt depbees and dirt entering the drivelines - Something that would also not reduce the ground clearance, tiles might work.
  22. Last few days I've been working on a motorized version of the Bugatti Bolide using the .io file @Void_S posted earlier (thanks again!). I wanted to do the motorization by adding a diff, a Buwizz 3.0 + monster motor and a PU L motor for steering, all without impacting the looks except for removing the HOG. Adding the PU L motor was pretty straight forward. It increased the existing gap that's between the dashboard and the front hood but later I found a nice solution to close this gap again. To add the monster motor and the diff I used the same design as in my 8865 New Jeep MOC. It's very strong and doesn't suffer from any gear skipping. Fitting this required some changes on the back side but none of those change the looks. Adding the Buwizz 3.0 was the hardest, it's quite big and I tried to many ways to get it to fit. In the end I found a nice way to hide it well, this did require the removal of the seats and also some minor changes to the sides: the yellow door panel had to be moved one stud outward and half a stud backward. It think this looks pretty good actually, perhaps better than the original. Additionally I had to change the two bottom new panels in front of the rear wheel with a single old panel but that's it. Using an Lego Buggy motor doesn't work, there's no space for the PF connector it requires. I don't have the set yet but I built it all using my own parts and made it so all connection points for the new panels are there again. All panels are fixed at least as well as in the original design except for the aforementioned yellow door panel which is only connected with a single pin now. Here's 2 work in progress photos: It drives really well and when it's fully built you don't really notice the motorization which is exactly what I was trying to achieve so I'm happy :) Especially the cabin is still nicely spacious. I will be able to build it with the real set parts soon, I managed to order it somewhere and it has been shipped. I did already finish the virtual model and will make free instructions available once I can test the full build and instructions. Thanks for reading and hope you like it, any feedback is welcome! Here's some renders of the model:
  23. After a while without a new MOC (because of my studies ^^), I'm back with a new model! It was made for BuWizz. The aim was to make a model in the continuity of my cross kart. I wanted to get rid of the torque effect on the rear axle (as it was a suspended axle on my cross kart), that made the behaviour unsymmetrical in corners. So I used 2 BuWizz motors as wheel hubs instead! The rear suspension was made so the rear shock absorbers generate friction, in order to have a slow rebound. On my cross kart, the suspension was extremely reactive, but the kart was "jumping" on gravel. On this new buggy, having a slow rebound helps the wheels stick on the ground to gain adherence. However, I wasn't able to do the same thing on the front axle. Why a police buggy? I have never seen this before, I thought it could be nice. I wanted the design to be as agressive and massive as possible. I wanted the design to be close to Polaris or Can-Am, looking heavy, indestructible but fast in any situation. People had to fear seing it in their mirror. You may have seen that the main part of the bodywork was made with 2x5 panels. This was a very useful part to achieve the shapes that I wanted, and to have simple assemblies (no one uses complex building techniques). The BuWizz 3.0 has got 2 PF ports and 4 PU ports. The 2 BuWizz motors are connected to the PF ports while the PU L motor for the steering (acting as a servomotor) and the LED lights are connected to the PU ports. The performance is really great! It is absolutely impossible to use more than the half of the power into a house! And outside, the suspension works well. You can go almost everywhere without being stuck or loosing grip. I also had some crashes but nothing was broken nor fell apart! Little video: And the instructions! https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-132106/Anto/police-interceptor I hope that you'll like this model, and see you soon for the next one!
  24. Hi, I present my newest creation – off-road truck KrAZ 255 version 2.0. This is successor of my first public MOC – KrAZ 255 to which free instruction are available here. The goal in version 2.0 was to improve basically every aspect of predecessor and to pay respect to this awesome off-road truck. And as usual, most of the features are based on truck Tayga 6455B available in game Snowrunner. This truck is also the next part of my Snowrunner series started with Chevrolet CK1500. On the video below you can check what details and functions I was able to put into this MOC and how KrAZ 255 v2.0 deals with off-road terrain and against obstacles. Extensive list of features, details and interesting facts about this creation you can find below the video. Enjoy! Instructions: LINK General details: scale: 1:23 dimensions LxWxH: 42,5x13x16,5cm weight: 1525g Features: 1. RC front axle steering (C+ L motor) positive caster (click) Ackermann geometry almost perfect pivot point (click) PF servo friendly - 180 degrees of movement for steering input 2. RC 6x6 drive (2 x C+ L motor) independent drive input for each front wheel (click) (for this idea I would like to thank @Fluwoeb and this topic, this is because of you! ) rear wheels driven by two independent inputs (one for 2 left wheels and one for 2 right wheels) (click) front wheels driven by one differential and rear wheels driven by second differential (click) both differentials coupled together to harness power of two C+ L motors both differentials coupled with lock mechanisms (click), controlled separately and manually from the cabin (click) and equipped with visual color indicator of diff lock on/off status located behind the cabin (click) power train equipped with new big CV joints - cardans and old CV joints limited in drive of the front axle and completely removed from drive of rear axles 3. RC winch with place to lock the hook (C+ L motor) 4. RC front and rear lights (Lego LEDs) 5. suspension for all 6 wheels (click) front wheels on live axle suspension with shock absorbers (click) and a big range of movement (click) rear wheels located on independently oscillating arms with rubber suppressors controlling the movement (click) rear suspension without shock absorbers - no side leaning and no bending under the load (click) 6. three studs ground clearance (click) 7. bottom of the truck armored with panels to secure crucial mechanisms and improve dealing with obstacles (click, click) 8. two hooks for connecting trailers, front and rear one, both equipped with lock/unlock mechanisms 9. openable doors, hood, tool box, first aid kit, sideboard bed with separately openable sides, each one with two locks 10. working V8 engine with fan which can be easily removed “for maintenance, repairment or for swap” located in detailed engine bay with a grill via which working engine can be watched (click) 11. detailed two seats cabin with openable and usable glove box (click) 12. working steering wheel 13. modular construction (axles, cabin, additions can be easily disconnected) 14. powered by Buwizz 3.0 but also prepared to be powered by standard C+ Hub (click) 15. prepared to be built also with PF motors and PF servo without significant changes and to be powered by Buwizz 2.0 (click) or even standard PF Battery box with IR receivers (click) 16. "disk brakes" in front (click) and rear wheels and many others small details (click, click, click) 17. equipped with many additions from the game Snowrunner, like bull guard, exterior roll cage, roof rack with fuel canisters and spare tire, double snorkel, sun protector (click) Interesting facts, designing decisions and details: driveshafts for front axle are connected in a way that the longer, more “smooth” CV joint part are connected closer to front axle, so lower to the ground, which corresponds with the idea to prepare bottom of the frame smooth and resistance to sticking out objects which can immobilize the truck (click) most of the motors are placed symmetrically at the center of the truck, which is good for weight distribution, but Buwizz unit is localized off centered, closer to the left side of vehicle. To balance that, motor from winch is placed also off centered, but closer to the right side of truck (click) all wheels can harness power from both C+ L motors, as they are coupled, but rear axles, which in general generate more load for motor, are connected closer to the right motor, that is why V8 engine is connected closer to the left motor, which is connected closer to front axle, as the front axle generates less load than rear ones (click) additionally output for V8 engine has the same speed as motor output - which is higher than rest of the drivetrain - for better visual and sound effect (click) there is a „biscuit connector” placed in rear wall of the cabin to increase ways of location and connection and types of power source which can be used to power up the truck (click) to avoid widening the whole truck, only hinges for sides of sideboard bed are located outside of the sideboard bed to allow opening sides to vertical position, which makes loading the cargo easier (click) positive caster present in front axle has (apart from being next feature adapted from real cars, apart from dealing with not very high tolerance of Lego parts, which causes negative caster and apart from being the force which steers front wheels strait when driving forward) a function of forcing front wheels to stay on axles when driving forward (I think this is the answer you were looking for @AutoBacon in this post ) and many more details you will discover, if you decide to build my truck I would also like to thank @nico71 for his great video series related to Western Star 6900 Twinsteer. It helped me to prepare more realistic grill, hood, roof elements and I believe overall better body of the KrAZ than in my first version of this truck. Thank you! Attention! Two C+ L motors with decreased speed 3 times, so with torque increased 3 times, generate a lot of force which needs to be handled by rather advanced drivetrain. That is why there is a risk for 12T gears to skip or even be destroyed if wheels come across too much resistance due to very rough terrain. Please keep this in mind and happy off-roading! Photos: (click) Here you can see the original KrAZ-255 (1211 parts, 991 grams), the new KrAZ-255 v2.0 in standard configuration (1632 parts, 1220 grams) and the fully equipped and ready for everything version of KrAZ-255 v2.0 (2091 parts, 1525 grams): Internals of the MOC, so drivetrain with differentials and diff locks connected with V8 engine, steering with working steering wheel and the winch I hope you like it, if you have some comments or question, please ask. I will happy to answer.
  25. Hi everyone Last weekend the Bricking Bavaria 2022 took place in Fürth, Germany. LEGO builders from around Europe travelled to Fürth to show their models. This year large cranes, lang heavy load transporters and even a technic locomotive in scale 1:17 were shown. It was really inspiring to meet other builders and learn about their building techniques, concepts and how their model work. For all people who had not the possibility to come to BB22 I cut a video with as many models in action as possible.