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Found 160 results

  1. Recently we have seen quite a few PF Controllers popping up. Some more interesting than others. This project was launched on Kickstarter today and I think it's worth sharing. Since we are not fond of people promoting their Kickstarter or LEGO Ideas on Eurobricks, I have taken the liberty to promote this project myself. Kickstarter description A compact, high performance remote control system for LEGO® models. With embedded battery, precise servo control and huge power. Technical information BuWizz is a four channel high performance controller for LEGO® Power Functions, with embedded battery and a Micro-USB charging port. Paired over Bluetooth with smartphone or tablet, BuWizz is compact yet powerful. BuWizz: has 4 channels can be charged with any Micro-USB charger - even with a powerbank while you drive your model.- has several speed modes: in fast mode, the motors receive 2x more power than other solutions with LEGO batteries - enables great speed or better obstacle climbing - in slow mode, the PF servo motor can move very slow - for realistic motion of railway crossing gates, convertible roof, etc. can drive 2 XL motors on each channel in high speed mode- delivers 8 times more power (4 channels combined) than any solution with LEGO battery- is compact: 8x4x3 bricks size, 2x IR receivers footprint replaces battery box + 2x IR receivers can be embedded deep into your model - all you need is access to Micro-USB charging port powerful enough for large models, yet small enough to build a very compact model Dimensions It has the same dimensions as the rechargeable battery, which is quite convenient. Controls Example implementations Kickstarter Check out the project on Kickstarter Reviews Sariel has received a copy and he is quite enthusiastic. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdPduWEk7H4 I will receive a copy soon, after which I will share my thoughts.
  2. Hi everyone Last weekend the Bricking Bavaria 2022 took place in Fürth, Germany. LEGO builders from around Europe travelled to Fürth to show their models. This year large cranes, lang heavy load transporters and even a technic locomotive in scale 1:17 were shown. It was really inspiring to meet other builders and learn about their building techniques, concepts and how their model work. For all people who had not the possibility to come to BB22 I cut a video with as many models in action as possible.
  3. This model (and it's prototypes) are a result of the following topics: Basically the idea behind this project is to make an offroader capable of driving on all kinds of terrain with a simillar perofrmance as the Wildcat 6x6 but having a lower weight So, why would I want to reduce the weight? While the wildcat 6x6 works great most of the time, it's high weight of 2,5-3 kg has some drawbacks: The model requires a lot of expensive electronics (12 BuWizz motors, 6 BuWizz 3.0 bricks) High part count (1869 pieces) Tendecy of front wheels falling off at hard landings High wear and tear of the individual components, which lead to premature failure - planetary hubs, CV joints And lastly high wear and tear of the handler due to it's heavy weight Of course decreasing the weight also means decreasing the power to weight ratio, since there will always be components which are needed regardless of the number od drive motors like wheels, hubs, steering system, suspension and frame. The first protoype, which I simply call Light 4x4 used only 2 BuWizz motors coupled to a 2 speed gearbox: While the model worked good in low gear, the high gear proved much trickier. The single gearbox put a lof of strain on the drive axle in high gear, causing it to melt, even with lubrication. Another issue was the high load of the motors in high gear, resulting in them overheating, while the motor could not even remotely apporach the 15 km/h top speed of the Wildcat 6x6. But not all was bad, I really liked the free-moving front suspension which acts like a suspended pendular axle, while having a much lower unspring weight. While I could make the rear suspension act like a pendular axle instead off front, i decided agaisnt it, since most of the weight is shifted back when crawling and I wanted to keep the rear stable. With that knowledge, I went back to the drawing board and decided to up the power for the next version... Medium 4x4 prototype: This version used 4 BuWizz motors coupled in a manner simillar to my 1:10 Acura NSX which negates the sideways load on the output axle of the gearbox. As you can see, this version was quite bigger and it used the reinforced differentials. The increased power drastically improved the performance, the top speed and overall power being simillar to the Wildcat 6x6. BUT the model had a few problems, main being the exposed gearbox which would get clogged and jam while driving outside. This version was aslo wider compared to the first prototype. Medium version prototype 2: This is another concept where the entire front axle is designed to pivot, but I ultimately decided to go agaisnt it due to the higher center of gravity and higher unspring mass. The final, universal 4x4 model: I have built and tested the model, but have yet to make any media, that's why I'm using LDD photos for now. I had to way to make the model more ingress resistant and narrower. This is where I came up with the idea of using the new, reinforced differentials as 28 tooth clutch gears for the high gear of the gearbox: This way the gearbox's output axle was moved a stud lower, allowing me to cover the bottom of the model with panels which prevent the dirt from getting into the gearbox without sacrificing ground clearance: The model inherited the front axle from the prototypes which acts like a free pendular axle. This keeps the weight even on both side of the suspension sosimple open differentials sufficed without a need for lockers. The gear ratios are a bit of a compromise comapred to the Wildcat 6x6, with low gear being 0,89x the ratio and high gear being 0,83x the ratio. Even with these differences, the model still reaches a very simillar speed in high gear, probably due to lower friction losses and lower rolling resistance. All in all I think this is a worthy successur to the Wildcat 6x6, even though it may not be as flashy, massive or functional (no skid steering). Final part count is 774 pieces which is 41% od the Wildcat 6x6 and the weight has been reduced to around 1,4 kg - around half of the Wildcat 6x6. I will be creating a proper in-depth video about the finished models and the protoypes, so I suggest you to watch this space for more upcoming details.
  4. BrickController2 is an Android and iOS application that allows you to control your Lego models using a compatible gamepad. It supports the following devices: - SBrick - BuWizz 1-2 - BuWizz 3 (basic support) - Lego Powered-Up devices: Boost, PUP HUB and Technic HUB (or Control+) - PF infrared (on Android devices having infrared emitter). Features: - Multiple profiles for a single creation - Multiple motor (or output) assignment to a single controller event - Different types of devices can be used at the same time - The same motor (or output) can be assigned to multiple controller events - Different joystick characteristic settings - Different button modes: normal button, simple toggle, ping-pong toggle, carousel toggle, ... - Train mode on joysticks - Normal and servo mode for the new Control+ motors - Sequences (like for flashing light) BrickController 2 on the Google Play Store: BrickController2 android BrickController 2 is also available on the Apple App Store. BrickController2 iOS Video tutorial created by @kbalage (many thanks for this): And another great video by @kbalage: Older versions: BrickController Android application. It lets you to control Lego creations via Lego infra-red, SBrick and BuWizz V1 and V2 using any Android compatible game controller: Current version: BrickController 0.6 User guide: BrickController User Guide Minimum system requirement: Android 4.4 and bluetooth low energy support on the phone (or tablet) Video on the older SBrickController application:
  5. Dear AFOL trainheads, After almost six months of designing work, another five months of construction, countless bursts of temper, and being relieved of a small fortune, I am very proud to present my latest locomotive MOC. This time, it’s a 2-10-2T narrow gauge (760 mm) steam locomotive, class 600.76, of the Bulgarian State Railways (Balgarski darzhavni zheleznitsi, BDŽ). Basically an enlarged version of the German DRG Baureihe 99.73, the first five locomotives of the class were built in 1940 by BMAG (formerly L. Schwartzkopff) in Berlin for hauling all kinds of trains on the mountainous Rhodope railway from Septemvri to Dobrinishte. Delivering about 850 hp, the engines were extraordinarily powerful by the time’s standards for single-frame narrow gauge locomotives. They were so successful that the BDŽ were keen to acquire more, but after the Bulgarian Tsardom had turned into a communist republic at the end of WW II, it became almost impossible to buy industrial goods from German manufacturers. Thus another 10 engines were delivered in 1949 by Fablok in Chrzanów, Poland. These Polish-built locomotives were technically identical to the original Schwartzkopff ones, but could easily be distinguished from the first series by the combined steam/sand dome casing and the odd-looking smoke deflectors, which seem quite ridiculous on an engine with a top speed of no more than 45 km/h! From 1966 on, after new diesel locomotives had arrived at Septemvri, all class 600.76 locomotives were relocated to Cherven Bryag in northern Bulgaria. Several have survived until today, albeit most of them in desperate condition. One engine – No. 609.76, however, is in operational state (now stationed in Septemvri again) and regularly used for excursion trains. My model portrays a locomotive from the second series as it ran in the late 1960s, some years after the whole class had been equipped with compressed-air brake and supplementary oil firing. As opposed to the drawing, it therefore has a shortened right side tank (to make room for the air compressor), air reservoirs below the rear tank and an extended coal/oil bunker. The model is in accurate 1:22.5 scale except for the track gauge, which according to G-scale standard is always 45 mm regardless of the prototype’s actual value (as mentioned before, class 600.76 has 760 mm, or 33.8 mm in 1:22.5). Therefore, it matches LGB garden railway track and rolling stock. Dimensions and height of the coupling bars are designed in a way that they work with LGB link-and-pin couplers. Three PF L-motors working on the central driving axle are responsible for propulsion, with the other drivers (BBB XL) being coupled by the side rods, just as in the real thing. One BuWizz brick allows to remote-control running direction as well as speed, and serves as a power supply for the lights (separately switchable front/rear headlights, combined cab & running gear lights). The LED equipment was purchased from Brickstuff; valve gear parts and main rods were supplied by zephyr1934. The running gear layout proved to be quite a challenge. The leading and trailing axle are of the Bissell type and can swing out by 9°. Of the driving axles, the second and third one are blind, while the fourth one is slidable laterally by +/- ½ stud. With this configuration, the engine is running stably on straight track, yet also able to negotiate LGB R3 curves and switches (1195 mm radius). The model consists of more than 3200 parts and weighs about 2.2 kg. Enough said – enjoy the pictures! Some views of the engine frame. For reasons of stability, I had to fill the prototypic cutouts with trans-clear plates and bricks. You can see the steam inlet pipes running to the cylinders on the outside, as well as the exhaust pipes inside the frame, leading steam to the exhaust nozzle in the smokebox. Underneath, the brake rigging is also reproduced: The leading/trailing trucks. The tongue connecting the truck to the main frame is free from load, which means that it could be kept prototypically thin; the engine weight is supported by the axle bearings via the 4x4 tile on top. Fully detailed cab interior, including a tiltable ”Marcotty“ type firebox door and functional folding seats: Complete smokebox interior as well. The exhaust nozzle, spark arrestor, smoke stack bottom, boiler tube openings and superheater tubes are visible: Plenty of water in the side tanks: Some boiler details, among others showing the generator hidden behind the smoke deflectors: The combined oil/coal bunker can be removed to give access to the power button and the charging socket: The three magnetic switches for the lights are hidden in the rear toolbox: Posing in front of a historic BDŽ crest: The cab lettering: The lights: Some matching, albeit non-purist decoration (1:24 GAZ M20 Pobeda by Yatming, 1:22 [sic!] VAZ/Lada 2106 by Avtoprom)… A short video, showing the valve gear in motion. Note that unlike many conventional model locomotives, the valve stem is really pushed back and forth. A video of the engine pulling an LGB G-scale train will follow as soon as possible. As always, you can download the lxf file here. Also, more and much larger pictures can be found in my Bricksafe folder. Finally, I’d like to say special thanks to Sergio Monai, who with his fruitful feedback and proposals kept me stimulated to achieve the best possible result! Comments are of course most appreciated – thanks for stopping by! Best regards, Sven Edit: New video here!
  6. Here's a model I actually completed a year ago in order to be unveiled in time for the BuWizz picnic back in 2021, but we all know how things went... Anyway since the picnic did happen last weekend, I decided to unveil my most powerful offroader. The basic design is based on the Wildcat 4x4, but this version adds more power, a 2 speed gearbox and a third axle to the formula. As with the older version, each axle has independent suspension, plus the entire axle can pivot or swing, effectively giving this model double suspension setup. Indepedent suspension is great at absorbing small bumps when driving quickly, while the axles pivot along the terrain when crawling. The driveline was quite a challenge. In order to transmit the power from 12 motors to the wheels, each wheel ended up having it's own dedicated 2 speed-gearbox. The final driveline is extremely compact and efficient, with only 3 gears engaged at any given time. There are also no differentials or perpendicular drives, so nothing that can break or skip. Each gearbox is actuated by a PU M motor using worm gears, which prevent any unwanted skipping out of the gear. This way each wheel is powered by 2 BuWizz motors via a dedicated gearbox: The following gif shows how the front axle is designed along with the whole model: Here you can wee, how the front axle tilts in order to adjust to the terrain: The rear axles are made in the same way as the front axles, minus the steering. Rear axles are also designed to work in tandem, when one goes up, the other goes down. When one tilts left, the other tilts right. This way the rear suspension is extremely flexible: And finally here are some specs of this beast: Length: 52 cm Width: 26 cm Height: 20 cm Weight: 2,5 kg Top speed: 15 km/h (rounded up) To complete the presentation, here's a video of the model in action, a big thanks out to @braker23, @Sariel and @kbalage for the footage. Final thoughts... this is my most potent offroader to date. The sheer amount of power, torque and speed is hard to wrap your mind around for a model made entirely of small plastic pieces. Having said that, I think there are still few areas to improve: Tendency of the front wheels to fall off at hard bumps - A lighter version would help to reduce stress on the hubs and wheels. Could use a higher steering angle - Would have to find a way to integrate steering racks inside the transaxles. Protection againt depbees and dirt entering the drivelines - Something that would also not reduce the ground clearance, tiles might work.
  7. Hello everyone! I am glad to introduce you my new Lego MOC. It is called "Wilde Beast" and it is a 1:10 scale 4-wheel drive pickup truck. Technical characteristics 1:10 scale, 1.630 kg of total weight All wheel drive with 4 x Buwizz motors powering each wheel separately 2 x Geek servo for steering 3S Li-Po for power RC radio + Wixy units for control Full independent suspension with customizable hardness Custom wheel hubs with metal bearings RC wheels 90 mm (12 mm hexes) Metal U-joints in the transmission Robust 3D-printed steering bones Positive caster angle on all wheels Back to the beginning The main Idea behind the build was inspired by real e-cars. This cars has no gearbox, and each wheel gets connected to an e-motor independently. I tried to replicate this principle with Lego bricks and some custom parts. Bodywork This car has is a 1:10 scale pick-up truck body, Though it is a bit too short for a normal pickup. The body was made to be light and it is build on the chassis with a half-stud off-set in order to make the wheels seating symmetrically in wheel arches. (It was an obligatory decision due to the positive caster angle). There are many things that can be improved in the bodywork, but the current one perfectly satisfy my needs: it is light but make the car somewhat recognizable as a car. Hope to find white fenders to the front wheels some time! All the driving elements are located in the lower 5 studs of the car, so it is very stable. Suspension Wilde Beast has a full independent suspension with positive caster, which is very unusual for pickups. Moreover it was made to be customizable for different purposes. 9L shocks connected to the lower bones of the suspension play main role. At the same time upper bones of the suspension has their own set of shocks which can be customizable! Custom wheel hubs provide a natural King-Pin Inclination. Transmission "A good transmission - is no transmission"... This was my main philosophy for this car. The car has 4x Buwizz motors for propulsion, each motor is connected to one wheel of the car via half-axle (which uses metal U-joints). "Gear Ratio": Slow output of Buwizz motor -> 95 mm wheel. Such solution has its own positive and negative aspects. Positive: extremely low friction stiffness fast cornering (e-differentials) High maximal speed (over 13 km/h) Negative: Too big stress on motors (a smaller wheels would work well) Car does not go straight due to the difference in motors Let me explain the last "problem" in more details. The motors used in the car are "the" same from the view-point of a lego builder. Though they are "different" from the physical view point: each motor has individual characteristics, such as resistance, max power, max rotation speed and so on... This difference can not be seen in slow models (with max speed under 7 km/h) but they became critical at speeds over 10 km/h. As the result, car is always turning to one side and the driver need to correct the trajectory with a steering. There are only two ways to fix this problem: either to make a mechanical balancing via differentials, or to test each motor separately, and make individual power curve to it. A steering system with build-in hygroscope might also help. Controls The car is controlled via RC radio. The whole system is very similar to RC car setup. 3S Li-Po is used for power, it powers controllers for driving motors (called Wixy). The controllers provide the power to Buwizz motors by a signal of receiver. The model is steered with 2 x GeekSevo, though one would be enough here. To see a detailed description of the system, see here: Conclusion The Wilde Beast was a great research project for me. I tried to replicate a real e-car layout and my goal was achieved. Car is very fun to drive, but the driver needs to pay a careful attention to the road. The main problem of the car is the lack of the e-brains which would allow to calibrate the driving motors... P.S. I will definitely make another car with same chassis on smaller wheels to reduce the load on motors.
  8. I've been starting on the bodywork and have added a quick clip of a flush mounted door mechanism. I'll periodically add bits until it's done, enjoy (Above pic is a link to video) This is my current supercar WIP. It has fully independent suspension, torsion bar, cantilevered front, typical rear, and sway bars. steering with attached steering wheel one servo, drive 2x XL, custom miniature V12 engine on an AWD chassis with a remote driven four speed sequential gearbox powered by an M motor. Race jacks with remote compressor, adjustable rear wing, tilt steering wheel, pedals with feedback, adjustable with single lever tilt and slide seats. Photos: https://flic.kr/s/aHskUraaNt Flush mounted door hinge operation by Dugald Cameron, on Flickr Let me know what you think! Video edit and teardown to follow!
  9. The specs: - 12 legged walker - Driven by 2 Lego Technic Large angular motors - Powered by Buwizz 3.0 - 1 Technic L motor powers the deployable spinning Lego buzzsaw - 1 Technic S angular motor to power the Lego arrow shooter Sorry Lego purists, but I had to use some non-Lego parts in this design: - 4.7mm aluminum tubes front run the width of the robot providing lightweight articulation of the legs in lieu of plastic axles - Stainless steels axles are used throughout the driveshaft due to the inherent limitations of backlash and breakage caused by the Lego plastic axles - Small nuts are threaded onto the upper leg pivots to maintain the connection as Lego bushes simply cannot retain the axles given the duty cycles.
  10. Dear train lovers, It's time for another locomotive MOC! As a tribute to my favourite holiday region (where in fact I am right now, writing this), I chose the Flensburger Kreisbahn's No. 1, a 0-8-0T narrow gauge locomotive, as a prototype. The Flensburger Kreisbahn ("Flensburg county railway") was a 1000 mm gauge railway in Germany's extreme North, with two lines (94 km in total) running through the hills of Anglia close to the Danish border. When the railway's older, saturated-steam locomotives became too weak to handle increased train loads, two new superheated-steam engines were ordered from AEG in Berlin - yes, there was a time when AEG, famous for its electrical devices, also built steam locomotives! Delivered in 1926, these 0-8-0T engines, numbered 1 and 2, were an immediate success. With approx. 300 hp and a permitted speed of 40 km/h, they were suited for both freight and heavy passenger trains and remained in service until the railway's closure in 1953. Sadly, both locomotives were scrapped. A substantial problem while designing the model was the almost complete lack of reliable sources. All technical information had to be derived from a short description, some b/w photos and a single small drawing in just one book (Schöning/Kupfer: Die Flensburger Kreisbahnen. Verlag Kenning, Nordhorn, 2004; the drawing is reproduced below with kind permission by Mr Kenning). Nevertheless, I'm confident that my model comes as close as possible to the real engines. The MOC consists of approx. 2,200 parts and weighs just under 1.5 kg. It is held in accurate 1:22.5 scale, therefore compatible with conventional garden railway equipment (45 mm G-scale track), and can be coupled to rolling stock fitted out with LGB link-and-pin couplers. My layout uses the LGB R3 radius (1195 mm), so the locomotive has to be able to negotiate these curves. However, as I wanted to avoid the use of blind drivers for aesthetical reasons, this required two little tricks: The last axle is slidable sideways by +/- 1/2 stud, and the second axle's wheels are slightly set inwards, resulting in an increased lateral track play. Although this arrangement causes some drag while negotiating curves, it nevertheless works. The locomotive is driven by two L-motors. A BuWizz functions as both a battery pack and remote control receiver. The lighting equipment was bought from Brickstuff, while the wheels are BBB XL drivers, as usual. Purists may kindly ignore the two following scenes... Of course, the engine crew was proud to pose for a souvenir photo. Even the local grocer came to have a look at the new locomotive. The engine frame: While my previous BDZ 606.76 had its focus on exploring the possible level of detailing for a LEGO model, this time the goal was to design a simple locomotive for uncomplicated operation. Above all, the new model had to overcome the 606.76's proneness to tipping over. Thus, the frame houses two weight bricks for improved traction and a lower centre of gravity (highlighted in blue): Some views of the brake rigging and the two large vacuum-brake cylinders: All drivetrain components, including the BuWizz, are tightly packed and positioned as low and as close to the engine's centre as possible, again with the aim of optimizing the COG: The power button and the charging socket are accessible by removing part of the boiler top: The cylinders, closed-type feedwater heater (system "Knorr"), and generator: The upper part of the cab. While looking quite simple, the task to model the roof's half-stud offset and the vent hole in the cab front almost drove me nuts... But I think I found a satisfying solution: Cab interior and lights: This time there was no space for magnetic switches to control the headlights; so the coal bunker contains two small separate battery packs (with built-in switches) for front and rear lights. The cab is illuminated, too, when any of the two circuits is turned on. Realistic Winterthur valve gear. The basic dimensions are the same as on my BDZ 606.76: Originally, I had used zephyr1934's rods and valve gear parts again. But then I found them to be looking too massive , considering the rather delicate rods of the prototype. Besides, during the first functional testing sessions of the near-completed model, the flex elements which I originally used for the side rods proved too large by just a fraction of a millimetre - the cable connectors collided with the rear mounting of the crosshead guide, something which could not be foreseen in LDD. So I knuckled down to get used to Tinkercad and designed my own rods, including thinner, slightly tapezoidal main rods as well (both subsequently made by Shapeways). And for the first time - SMOKE (using a Seuthe No. 99 smoke generator, powered by the BuWizz via a modified PF cable): I finished the model just in time before going on holiday, so I had no time to shoot a video on track. Of course, I'll do this when I'm back home again. In the meantime, your feedback, comments and criticism are most welcome! As usual, high-resolution images can be found in my Bricksafe folder. If someone should be interested in the LDD file, please contact me by PM. Thanks for stopping by! Best regards, Sven Edit: Now with on-track video - see here!
  11. After building the 1:8 scale Spano GTA, I wanted to make something more compact, yet even more functional for the BuWizz camp 2021, which got postopned to 2022. The rules behind this model stated to build a 1:10 scale representation of a real existing car, which has to have a working gearbox, fake engine and working steering wheel. After researching different types of super and hypercars, I chose the Acura/Honda NSX since it had several good pros compared to the more famous brands like Ferrari or Lamborghini: The real car has a smaller profile, which means a lower weight It uses a hybrid AWD system, which would come in handy for the LEGO model for accelerating and braking on all wheels Engine powering is a V6, which doesn't take as much space as the typical V8, V10 or even V12 Since it's a less known supercar, my LEGO version could be the first one in such scale I used a simillar technique as with Spano GTA where I imported the 3D model into the Lego Digital Designer and used it as a 3D reference. Using this technique I ended up with a really close representation, and it really shows: As you can see in the gif above, not only does the model look very good, it's also full of functionality: 4x BuWizz motors for driving All wheel drive 2 Speed gearbox Working fake V6 coupled directly to the drive motors Working steering wheel 2x BuWizz 3.0 for control Double wishbone suspension on all wheels Dimensions and weight ended up as following: Length: 45 cm Width: 20 cm (without mirrors) Height: 12.5 cm Weight: cca 1,5 kg Here is how the model's underside looks like, drive motors are driving two independent gearboxes in order to evenly spread the mechanical load. This kind of a setup also cancels out any side forces on the central drive axle, thereby reducing friction and wear: In order to cram all the powertrain components in the rear the drive motors are placed in a V shape. This way there is just enough space between them for a functional V6 engine and a PU medium motor which switches the gearbox: Thanks to the compact powerline and driveline, the interrior is very spacious and both seats are almost 1:8 scale sized, measuring 6 studs wide. There are even stoppers and interrior details on the doors themselves: ž The end performance of the model is higher than what I expected, there is enough torque to freespin all 4 wheels, jump over ramps and top speed in high gear is almost 20 km/h! You can see how well it performs the video: To conclude, this is my first 1:10 scale supercar which also ended up extremely compact, functional, robust and good looking. I also think a 1:10 scale may be beneficial when it comes to reliability and robustness, since models tend to weight half the weight of their 1:8 counterparts while still incorporating a simillar level of functionality and details. Having said that, this will not be my last 1:10 supercar and I think for the next one I will ditch the gearbox and simply drive the wheels directly from the motors without any weak differentials.
  12. Hello everyone. This is a story of my mid-scale RC baja truck called “Phantom”. The beginning. I always had a strong desire to go fast. For that reason I made my Red Roadster powered by Buwizz motors (See my Profile for dedicated post). But this sport car has one significant disadvantage - it requires a very smooth road! So I decided to build a trophy truck. I learned a lot about trophy trucks made with Lego. Best of them had 2 Buggy motors for propulsion with a direct connection to the rear wheels. So I decided to build myself a similar setup. First trophy truck I designed in big scale (~1:10) but Buwizz motors were struggling with a load from big wheels (and that is not a problem of motors, but a problem of construction). So I made a portal reduction and the problem was solved. After that I build an ultimate dune Buggy “Dragonfly” with independent suspension driven by couple of Buwizz motors. The result was great, Buwizz motors allowed to drive it very fast on 85 mm wheels. So I decided to build a trophy truck with them. Such wheel size is the smallest one which could be used outdoors. Smaller wheels does not provide enough of ground clearance to go full speed on bumpy terrain. Photos. Front axle. I started the build with the front suspension. A technical task was the following: - to use big Lego wheel hubs - double steering rack - positive caster angle - ridged suspension arms I took many ideas from the front suspension of my Dune buggy and tried to make it smaller. Dune buggy used 9,5 L shocks so I decided to change them to 7 L shocks. Also I was able to avoid ball connections, since they struggle a lot at bumpy roads. Here is the result. The steering motors should get connected to the vertical black axe (on the first picture). The key idea was to place steering arms horizontally and in a slight diagonal way. Such placement caused some friction in the steering system, but from the other hand it reduced the wobbling to ZERO! Also there is a 3 studs distance from the connection of steering arms to the wheel hub and the pivot point of the hub (see picture 2). It reduces the maximal steering angle, but strengthen the steering system and make the control smoother! Rear axle. A technical task was the following: - direct mounting of Buwizz motors to the rear axle - Long suspension arms and long travel - Suspension with progressive hardness I decided to make it simple without any articulation, though there was some provided by bending of plastic parts. There are two sets of springs used. Small vibrations of the rear axle get absorbed by a soft 9.5 springs, while hard bumps compress the rear axle stronger, so the set of 7 L springs does their job. Finally, there is a couple of Lego rubber elements which play a role of fenders. So there are three stages of compression. First stage. Soft settings. Second stage. Hard settings. Third stage. Rear axle touches the frame. Frame of the car and bodywork. A technical task was the following: - two layers of frame - use the roof of the car as structural element - minimalistic bodywork The space frame of the car consist of two layers. Roof of the car tighten the upper layer in order to bear the load from the rear springs. The middle compartment is dedicated to power sources. The "new" cross-beams (15L and 11L) were very helped a lot. The bodywork is made with several panels which can be easily detached for servicing the electronics. Electronics. On photos above you can see a custom Lego-compatible RC unit equipped with two high power cells 18650. It provides more power comparing to Buwizz 2.0, but it is not enough for two Buwizz motors. It get overheated quite fast (5-10 mins). One may ask me, why I use it. Actually, the first version of the Phantom was powered by two Buwizz 3.0 units, which provided a plenty of power to the car. But I managed to drown the car at first outdoor driving test! So I bought replacement for them since there was no possibility to purchase new Buwizz units in Russia. Here is the video of an accident: This month I bought a different Lego-compatible RC electronics from a Russian AFOL, it is called "Wixy". It plays a role of the controller for RC motors and allows to power my cars with 3S Lipos! WIth 3S Lipo I forgot about lack of power and was able to ride the Phantom for miles and miles... Conclusion. The car Is made for outdoor driving. It has a decent speed and a good control. Though there are several weak places of Phantom which can not be fixed with plastic Lego parts. The dust is very annoying, especially on county roads! It fills all holes of the car, most importantly plastic wheel hubs. I destroyed all the wheel hubs I own and there is no way of fixing the problem... Also the car has slight problems with ground clearance - it is acceptable for city roads but too small for stony surfaces. Finally, the Truck can not go trough the tall grass with such small wheels and RWD.
  13. Now for something completely different: A Spyder from the future - the Turbo Racer's AMC Ultra - and its opponent - the Police Interceptor MM Falcon PS (both based on @rm8's chassis for his AWD prototype) Now you can play Outrun - but for real! UPDATE: This series of RC cars will get updated in the future with new additions. UPDATE2: It was time for a logo and here it is (might be subject to change)
  14. Hey folks, I want to share with you one of my current projects, the RC Superbikes. It is another of those self-balancing motorcycles, but has some nice additional specs which might have considered to not work in the brick-universe. Unluckily I couldn't finish the superbike project this summer, final highspeed runs will have to take place in the next summer to have some warm tarmac again for giving some additional grip. Specs Scale 1/6.5 Weight ~650g Single swingarm construction for the rear wheel Working transmission via chain Powered by Buwizz 3 Two buggy motors 1x Custom 5L Liftarm made out of aluminium with a ballbearing included Theoretical topspeed should be astonnishing 62 km/h, basing on the 2500 rpm with BW3 at 12V peak (which by its scale would translate into 403 km/h) Real world maximum speed may be lower due to physics kicking in (wobble, weave) Pictures All together Kawasaki H2R - black/chrome Kawasaki H2R - white/green (tuned BuWizz Edition) Ducati Panigale V4R Honda CBR1000RR FireBlade Videos Videos related to the RC Superbike Series can be found in my Youtube playlist: What are your thoughts?
  15. Some might still remember this offroader I started sometime ago in 2019 and showed earlier versions in the 8081 mods thread a while ago. Well, I finally "finished" it now and created digital models for it. I call it the COMMANDO and it is "sold" by MM (Mars Motors). People that follow my Turbo Racers series and my series of 42093 scale cars with swappable engines should already know MM. To show its capabilities I made a trip to a special location and examined what it can do there. Have a look into the video to see what it possible: The configuration in this video has all axles locked and uses the drivetrain variation #2 (see below). The COMMANDO started as the glorious 8081 A model and went through lots of modifications - especially to the front and rear axles and also to the outer hull - on the way to the final result. I created three versions so far: with 1 x PF AA battery box with 2 x PF AAA battery boxes with BuWizz 2.0 ...from which the BuWizz one was used during the video and also most of the time I drove it so far. Here are a few more detailed pictures showing it in that terrain: Here are two pictures showing the chassis construction (click to magnify): ...and here are the three drivetrain variations that can be used (click to magnify) More variations are possible and the gearing can be changed with relative ease, as the motors are not an integral part of the construction: #1 is used for the PF versions and #2 is used for the BuWizz version. #3 can be used to examine the effects of open differentials in offroad situations. The COMMANDO can use various tyres and clearance should be good enough for all of them: 45982 81.6 x 38 R Balloon tyres 18450 81.6 x 44 R (Tumbler) tyres 69912 81 x 35 Tractor (Zetros) tyres I have also already designed a few addons that will be released at a later time - need to create the digital models first - and I have even more ideas for it. So far I have available: front winch rear PTO exploration gear tracks So stay tuned for additions. I hope you like the COMMANDO and I hope it is a worthy successor to the 8081 A model. If you're interested, the - free of charge - digital models (Studio files with detailed steps and submodels) and more pictures are available on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-111591/johnnym/mm-commando/
  16. DRAGONFLY Dune Buggy Hello everyone! For a very long time I had a dream to build a dune buggy, and finally, my dream come true! The main goal was to use a C+ electrics instead of Buwizz unit. Of course, I am not the first who attempted to build a buggy. I take an inspiration in Madoca`s Blue Lightning buggy. Technical specifications: - Light and ridged tubular bodywork - electrics form 42099 set (controlled with C+ app for 42099) - Long-travel independent suspension - positive caster angle on the front wheels - Long wheel for stability on the straigt lines - Double steering rack and steering arms reduce wobbling of the steering system - understeering feature (rear wheels get more grip) - RC tires 90 mm Buggy performed well, comparing to the 42124 set. It appears to be a car that is very comfortable to play with. The speed of the buggy allows you to walk with your normal speed in the park driving it at the same time! Here is a small video of my first tests: As I said, the main goal of this project was to use C+ electrics. But after that I decided to boost it with buggy motors! The overview of the car does not change much. Rear wheels get a positive caster angle, and wheel size was reduced from 90 mm to 85 mm (for reducing speed and increasing torque). Here is a short video with Buwizz-powered Dragonfly. I will definitely make another video about this car then the summer comes.
  17. Hey, Eurobricks! In this post I want to tell you about one of my latest MOCs, called Blue Mamba. It was made for outdoor King of the Hammers competition. Unlikely I was not able to participate in the competition this year, but I am not disappointed because it is very fun to drive this car. Main features 4-wheel drive In-axe motors (one PF L-motor for each wheel) 2 x Buwizz 3.0 units for power RC tires 97 mm Bodywork The race vehicles used at the King of the Hammers are known as Ultra 4 vehicles. This Ultra4 class is unlimited 4400, and every vehicle is custom fabricated by each team. Most of the vehicle made with metal tubular frame and plastic body panels. I tried to replicate the bodywork to match the real prototypes. Black pieces imitate a tubular frame of the car. Side panels and the hood are the structural elements of the chassis. The total weight of the car is about 1,280 grams. Half of the weight (4x PF L-motors) is located in axes, this is not good for the dynamics of the car at big speeds, but helps a lot in trial. Steering motor and Buwizz units are located in the cockpit. It is possible to lower them, so there is a reason to revisit the chassis once again. Suspension The rial race combines desert racing and rock crawling. So the Lego version of the race combines high-speed and trial sections. For good performance in trial Blue Mamba has a free articulation of a rear axe. The string are placed on the middle link, so rear axe can suspend jumps. Front axe has a limited articulation for a good control at high speed. Drivetrian Ultra4 vehicles has both powerful engine and the gearbox which allows to drive fast on straight lines and slow on rock-crawling segments. But Lego gearboxes has a significant disadvantage - a huge loss of torque. So I decide to place the motors in axes. This gives nearly zero losses, but has it`s own disadvantage: an extremal load on the CV joints which connects front motors to the wheel hubs. There is no way to deal with in without widening the wheel base and adding the portal reduction.. I hope some day Lego will make a new hubs that connects to new CV joints (without planetary reduction). In-axe motor placement provides some restrictions to the size of axes. I tried to maximize the ground clearance. Big wheels partially solve the problem. The resulting ground clearance in not big as one the cars with portal hubs has, but it is comparable to the ground clearance of cars with front independent suspension (there were several competitors with such configuration). Also it is worth noting that front and rear axes does not stick out from the side profile of the wheels, so Blue Mamba has great approach and decent angles. Control and Power The car is powered by two Buwizz 3.0 units. Powerful lego cars usually have a big problem. They can not go on a full speed for a continuous time since the driving motors consume a lot of power. I build many cars powered Buwizz 3.0 units. And I noticed that 2 Buwizz motors or 4 PF L-motors consume more power then the battery can give (in continuous drive). A good example of a car with 4 L-motors and 1 Buwizz unit is my Jeep Wrangler. To deal this problem, I places two units in the Blue Mamba. This doubles the travel range of the car and allows to drive Blue Mamba on full speed during the race. But multiple tests show that 1 Buwizz unit is enough for this car, since there are no losses in the transmission (in the first video car is powered by a single Buwizz unit). For steering a C+ L-motor is used. It is placed in a cockpit in between Buwizz units. Small scrab-radius, positive caster angle and proportional steering provide a good control of a car. Summary The competition has passed, and I there is a video on youtube: This allows me to compare my car with the other competitor cars. I would not win the race but perform good. I will look for the next King of the Hammers competition and prepare Blue Mamba to it. The following changes will be made: Buwizz units will be replaced with RC electrics The cockpit will be lowered for few studs The wheel base will be lengthened for 4-6 studs (to prevent the car from flips at high stairs in trial) I made a 3D model of Blue Mamba, but I have no motivation for making PDF instructions since Rebrickable does not work for me nowadays... Hope everything will be changed soon! Now we can only wait and play Lego!
  18. Full RC Conversion of 10269 Harley Davidson Fatboy After many hours of trial and error, broken bits and gray hair I have finally a working Remote Controlled Harley. And it actually works wery well and are not more fragile than the orginal set. My goal was to create a slower motorbike that you can play with in your living room, so self balancing was not an option as this requires high speed to work. My bike runs on "training wheels" all the time that leans at the same time as the handlebar stears. Have tried my best to hide the electronics an keep it as close looking as possible to the orginal set. Motorized wtih Buwizz/CaDa battery to save space and Power Functions motors. Youtube Video Instructions available at Rebrickable
  19. I would like to present my Heavy trial truck. It is indeed the result of many attempts that began with a 6x6 heavy truck to this version, with one less axle. But in the middle, there was two additional versions that, maybe, I would refine and finish for a functional MOC. For the truck, I wanted a functional “Dynamic automatic gearbox”-driven heavy vehicle, featuring a significant body resistance, differential locks (at least, front and rear axles) and a good geometry for climbing obstacles (including front and rear attacking angles, big ground clearance, and low gravity center). And this is the result. More images at Bricksafe: https://bricksafe.com/pages/HectorMB/heavy-trial-truck-public Features (motorized and powered by a BuWizz 3.0 unit): Dynamic automatic gearbox (powered by 2 L PU motors) Differential locks (front and rear axle) (1 L PU Motor) Steering (1 L PU motor) and moving steering wheel Features (manual): Linked suspension with centering system Opening doors, openable roof window (which also serves for an easy access to ON/OFF switch), and 3 openable engine doors Effective ground clearance of 7 studs Detailed cabin Gear ratio from (continuous) 10:1 (177 Ncm) to 90:1 (1600 Ncm) (Calculated by Sariel's app) Video 01 Video 02 Features (video) Features description: Dynamic automatic gearbox: It was the starting point of this MOC. Since I found them, I was very interested in the potential of the differential-based automatic gearboxes. I found that for heavy models, it was not very easy to use. In this case, I opted for doubling the gearbox to avoid any cracking when stepping up obstacles as well as increasing the resistance of the “high torque/low speed” pathway. After the two gearboxes, all the power is driven through a common central axle. After several testing, I found that the resistance should be proportional to the difference between the max and the low gearing; the bigger the difference, the bigger the resistance. The problem is that increasing the resistance, obviously, decreases the efficiency of the system… but, by now, I did not find any other solution. With this gearing, and the vehicle geometry, the truck can climb up to 42º steps. Suspension: Although not motor-driven, this was an aspect that gave me several headaches. The starting idea was to have a suspension on which when a wheel is elevated because and obstacle, it benefits from the suspension of the opposite wheel, increasing the ground adherence. In practical terms, this means that you can rise one wheel up to 10 studs keeping all other three wheels still touching the ground. An issue with this system (and having only 2 axles) is that the body of the vehicle tends to stay tilted after overcoming obstacles. To solve that, I included an extra pair of shock absorbers that, instead of being supported in the opposite wheel, they are attached to the body of the truck. Differential lock: Because of the geometry of the vehicle, front and rear differential locks were not indeed and option but obligatory. Indeed, the turning radius turns from 90 cm (diff lock closed) to 47cm (diff lock open). Although it is driven by a single motor, thanks to two clunch 24 gears, it is ensured that, despite a significant different backlash, both locks perform perfectly fine. Steering: About this feature, the major challenge was to minimize as much as possible the backlash of the steering rack. I even considered including an actuator-based steering system. Unfortunately, for this model, I could not manage to make it happen. In exchange, the steering rack is designed to reduce the backlash in any direction. Openable doors: In total, the model has 6 openable doors. 2 that access the pilot and co-pilot positions, 2 laterals that allow to see part of the gearboxes (and how they work in flat and step terrain), 1 rear door that access the rear differential lock and 1 last roof door that, besides the appearance, it allows an easy access to the On/Off switch. The instructions are available in Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-100386/HectorMB/heavy-trial-truck/#parts Many thanks for the reading and please, leave your comments and feedbacks! :)
  20. I was planning to build an improved and updated version of my old 6x6 from 2013 when i got an offer for cooperation from Mouldking which gave me an additional motiviation to design this model. I decided to go with a 1:10 scale, which would be perfect for the Unimog tyres. The final model dimensions are 60 x 22 x 24 cm Thanks to the all the amazing work done by fans updating the LDD, I was able to design the model as a modular build made out of a total of over 3100 pieces: A high number of pieces was needed to made this as detailed representation of the real model as possible. Starting under the hood, there is a detailed working V8 engine connected to the 2 drive motors: Inside the cabin there is a working steering wheel connected to the servo motor along with a detailed center console: Rear seats and the console between them can be folded to access the BuWizz bricks from the inside: Or you can simlpy fold down the rear wall inside the bed: The rear suspension and axles have been designed in such a way to maximize the volume of the bed, which is 15 studs wide, 20 studs long and 6 studs deep, making it my biggest truck bed to date: As you can see all the doors, hood and tailgate can be opened. The front doors even feature limiters: Now going from the aesthetics to functionality: The model features a 6x6 drive which can be powered by a pair of RC, Monster or upcoming BuWizz motors. Power is transfered to all the axles via a 2 speed gearbox. Each axle has a 1:12,6 gear ratio, allowing the 3kg heavy model to crawl over larger obstacles with ease. Low gear has a 1:12,6 gear ratiom while the high gear is overdrive, featuring a gear ratio of 1:7,56, allowing for higher speeds. Just like the real vehicle, the model uses live axle suspension with different spring rates. First and second axles use hard shock absorbers while the rear-most axle uses the soft version. Each axle uses a panhard rod with the rear axles uses two for even greater robustness Of course, I can't forget the most important photo: And finally here's a video of the model in action:
  21. I've had a chance to play with a pre-release version of the BuWizz 3.0 and here's everything I found out about it. And yes, it's FAST.
  22. Hi, It lasted a bit, but I managed to finish this project and here I am. I would like to share with you my latest MOC - Armored Trophy Truck. It was designed mostly to test new Buwizz 3.0 unit and Buwizz motors. I also wanted to increase my own experience in building fast MOCs this time. As there are many trophy trucks out there created by many great builders I tried to take some different approach. So to protect cabin and motors, I put armor on my creation :) Thanks to panels both motors and cabin are protected from dirt, dust and stones. I also added roll cage to protect the driver. More details and presentation how fast this truck is you can check on the video below. Instructions are free of charge, I hope many of you will be able to build it and have fun playing with it outdoors as I did. Link: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-94026/keymaker/armored-trophy-truck-rc/#details Details and main functions: • dimensions LxWxH: 36x16x14.5 cm • weight: 1.22 kg • RWD drive (2xBuwizz motors) • steering (C+ L motor) with positive caster • double wishbone suspension at front • live axle suspension at rear • additional suppressors in rear suspension to protect frame during high jumps • high ground clearance • front, rear and whole truck chassis are protected against dirt, dust and stones • roll cage • rear wheels are connected via portal hubs - gear ratio can be adjusted More photos: https://bricksafe.com/pages/keymaker/9.-armored-trophy-truck
  23. Hey guys! I present my new model, a BuWizz 2.0 powered Baja Truck! It features: Independent double wishbone front suspension, with servo steering and positive caster for better return-to-center Live axle rear suspension, powered by a buggy motor and BuWizz 2.0 My goal with this truck was to make a small, lightweight truck with excellent offroad capabilities and smooth suspension travel, while also giving it a realistic look with the least number of pieces. Overall I'm quite satisfied with the result! Here's a video: And more photos: More photos can be found on the BrickSafe page: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Teo_LEGO_Technic/baja-truck Hope you guys enjoyed! -Teo
  24. I think it's time to update and rebuild the legend.. Differences between the old and the new model: Because the model will be powered by 3x BuWizz instead of 4 AA battery boxes, it will be at least a kilogam lighter. Independent suspension will be changed to a live axle suspended pendular type. This will allow for much more movement when going offroad and more even weight distribution on the axles. Gear ratio will be changed from 1:3 to 1:1,677 due to the increased power of the motors, decreased weight and improved suspension - making the model 80% faster. NO MORE U JOINTS. Since no U joint, or CV can withstand the torque of an XL motor powered by BuWizz, the motors are now directly mounted on the hubs and steer with the wheels. Because there are no U joints the axle can be narrower by 4 studs, but I had to sacrifice a stud of ground clearance comapared to the old one. Servo steering - steering is now updated with 2 servo motors, each in their own axle. Front-most axle's steering angle is 25 degrees. Rear axles no longer need steering due to... Differential steering - since all motors can be individually controlled, the BuWizz's app allows for automatic correction of motor speeds when steering. This means the model can steer even tighter by reducing the speed of the inner motors when steering. Improved wheel mounting points using parts 24122 - the torque is now sent directly to the inside of the wheels without having to use 24 tooth gears and pins. I ordered the missing components and will send photos of the build as it progresses. For the bodywork I am thinking about a red cabine, but not sure which style - high and flat, or low which stick out in front further. Additional functions will be a winch in the front and possibly a crane arm in the back - I will decide on that after I see how it performs.
  25. Hi everyone, Finally, I have finished a project which I was building since last September. It is the scale model of the Intrac 2011 snow blower which is/was often used in the swiss alps by the army and other communal parties. It was the aim to create another working snow blower after the success of the snow blower from last winter. The blower is powered by three buggy-motors which are all controlled by a separate Sbrick. Each track is driven by two PF XL motors. The snow blower shoot direction is controlled by two 9-volt micro motors and the height of the snow blower by one PF L motor. As power source I used two Buwizz as battery or a custom lipo battery. After a certain time in the cold I had the replace the Buwizz with the custom lipo battery. Cheers FT