Anto

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Anto

  1. This gearbox is an upgrade of my ultra compact 8-speed sequential gearbox. The 8-speed gearbox was nice but it was frustrating to know that the 2-speed gearbox took as much space as the 4-speed gearbox. I thought about transforming the 2-speed gearbox into a 2+N+R one. I had an idea about how to transform this gearbox but I didn't really think about how to activate the reverse and the neutral. Maybe by doing something with the knobs... I spoke with @Charbel and he gave me the idea to use the Bionicle parts I already used on my previous gearbox. Then I ended up with this: I used large frames as in the Lamborghini Sian. They make the whole gearbox stiff and now you have just to build a chassis arount the 'box! The neutral was extremely simple to do. See by yourselves: The reverse was more complex to create. For every foreward speed, the 2+N+R-speed gearbox rotates the 4-speed gearbox by the red 16t at the bottom. The reverse doesn't use the 4-speed gearbox, it uses the blue 20t at the top of the picture below: To engage the neutral and the reverse, I fixed two Bionible parts on the left knob. So they act as a smaller knob, with two teeth, and at a point 1/4 turn of the right knob makes the left knob rotate by 1/4 turn, whereas for all the foreward speeds, the left knob does 1/4 turn every turn of the right knob. Reverse engaged: Neutral: First: There is a stop not to shift from the 8th to the reverse. The engine and the gearbox wouldn't appreciate. The wheels have to be connected the the red axle and the engine to the grey one. It's possible to use this gearbox for a 4WD vehicle easily since the red axle goes through the gearbox. With this gearbox you don't have to use a 8-speed gearbox and a DNR one anymore, as in the Chiron or the Sian. It saves space, and you can't engage the 4th speed whereas you are in neutral - all the speeds shift into a logic order. I will make instructions when I have time!
  2. Since the 2-speed gearbox also has a neutral and a reverse, this wouldn’t save space, it would just need more space to work and it would be more complex. The old driving rings (2L instead of 3) would save space, but they are not used anymore. ^^
  3. New version! It was optimized to have a better build and generate less friction. The building instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-50877/Anto/super-compact-8nr-speed-sequential-gerbox And the very poor video, to show that it works. I will make a better one when I have time. In the video, the motor seems to be overloaded. Actually the batteries have been used for the video of the Ford Fiesta, so they are not new. ^^
  4. Here's a MOC on which I'm working since the end of the previous summer! After I have done the video of my DS3, I had the idea to do a new chassis with 4 wheel drive. I thought it would not be possible, but the first prototype was better than my DS3! Actually the MOC is not finished. The stickers are missing, and I'm continuing to develop the chassis (I'm adding a 4th L motor) Actually there are 1 L for the front, and 2 L for the rear. The great advantage of the 4WD is that it can take a great angle while turning, but it's always controllable. But, that can have an inconvenient: the understeering. For that, I did the same thing on the real RC drift cars: I added a free wheel. So when I do not accelerate, the front wheels are not braked and the car does not understeer. You can see this video on this video, done for BuWizz with Charbel. But this is one. It's the same thing, but there is only my car. The final gymkhana will be for the next summer, because that requires a lot of time, and with the school, I have not enough time at another moment of the year.
  5. Stefan Königer on Instagram made rim covers for me! As they are rim covers and not rims, there is a little offset. Furthermore the wheels look a bit greater. Actually the wheels are bigger than they should be - this was done to compensate the thickness of the sides of the tires. But they look great! If you are interested, you can contact Stefan on Instagram and Facebook. He sells these covers and he can do what you want!
  6. The video is online! A few words before, to speak about the aims. I found that the video of the DS3 WRC could also interest people who are not interested in LEGO. So I followed two main objectives in order to entertain more people than the LEGO community: The video has to show more than a LEGO car. People must watch the video to see the car and more It has to look "pro" like Ken Block's videos, but with a ridiculously small budget From there, sub-objectives appeared. The main one was that I wanted this video to tell a story, not like Ken Block's (or Fabio Wibmer's videos, for the ones who don't know him, he is the Ken Block of the bike) that "just" show a man doing amazing tricks that you can't imagine. I wached several times Ken Block's gymkhanas in order to analyse several point. I noticed how many scenes there are, how many shots by scene, how the transitions are made... I tried to get the right balance for my video. My previous videos had a lack of real movement - like it was highlighted about the video of my RC cross kart. Friends helped me to make real movements with the camera while I was driving the car. This has contributed to get the "pro" look I wanted to give to the video. Thanks to them! I really enjoyed the magic side the first gymkhanas (until the 5) had. For instance, when the time was frozed and the camera virtually moved in space. I tried to reproduce this aspect, mainly with hypersmooth transitions. The title is a reference to the GYMKHANA FIVE and the GYMKHANA NINE, my favourite ones! And also because it is significant of the content of the video! And this is the video! 9 minutes! Read after the video Tell me if you liked this video!
  7. Thank you for the review @MadMax1998! Did you try to use BrickControl App? It's way easier to control this model with a game controller than a phone. The kart doesn't go exactly straight but it's not due to the little play in the steering. The play and the little caster angle allow the front wheels to be perfectly straight. The fact that the karts doesn't go perfectly straight comes from the transmission. The torque of the motors bend the chassis a bit. If you make a test, you'll see that the kart can turn better in a direction than in the other. It's from the transmission. But since I wanted this model to be really fast and light, to me it was not a great problem to sacrify a bit the maniability. It is still very fun to come really fast and shred the tires by steering quickly! Also to avoid damaging the parts it's better to drive this model on a perfectly flat ground. But we cannot everytime we wand to drive a MOC... I never tried, but it could also be possible to move the steering wheel 2 studs down and directly use the axle of the servomotor. However I don't know how it would look like.
  8. Hi! When I received my BuWizz, I wanted to make a fast RC model. It had to be very light, so a kart was good to make that. The mechanic is very simple. There are just some gears to turn the wheels at a high speed. As you can see, the driving is powered by two L motors and the steering by a servomotor. According to the tyres, this kart is very fast!
  9. The torque to transmit is low and the assembly is stiff so it wont cause any problem! Of course! As I said in the first post, I'll make instructions when I have time. On TechLUG with other members we tried to figure out how to make a display in order to know which speed is engaged. A first idea was to show if we are in D, N or R using only the position of the 2-speed gearbox. But the simplest and best way should be to connect a round part with stickers to the shifter and decrease its speed. If the round part for the display has got 12 different positions, we can divide its speed by 3 so when the shifter does 1/4 of a turn, the display does 1/12.
  10. Many new things! To start, new pictures! I removed the top flex of the front mudguards. The result is less close to the original shapes but it looks less heavy. (This comes from the Gymkhana 4!) As you will have understood, I have recorded the video. But the editing is not done yet, I have started. I replaced the 12t/12 sb gearing in the front axle by 12t sb/20t sb. So the front axle rotates more slowly than the rear one and it's easier to make drifts in tight places. But this has to be used for a drift use only since driving the car on a grippy ground may make the motors overheat. This is also the reason why I could record the Gymkhana. The security issue of the BuWizz should have been fixed, but it's not fully fonctionnal yet... I couldn't use this car to record a video but thanks to the new gearing, the security barely activates! The MOC is available on MOCHUB! I finished the recording of the video, I'm now editing it. But before recording, I had to prepare the scenario. What would I record precisely? With which camera(s)? (I have two GoPros) Which settings? When? Where? Would I need help from other people? What did I need to build in LEGO, or in cardboard? The recording took two weeks. I spent around 6 hours a day to record what I planned then the next day I spent between 3 to 4 hours on chosing the best shots and sorting everything into folders. I have recorded 877 videos and my folder for the video has got more than 3000 files. But the recording was nothing compared to the preparation of the video! With the instructions, I added the story board. It has around 30 pages. I wanted to reserve this to the people who would buy the instructions. I think there is as much work as for the instructions or even more. I wanted to show this invisible part to people, which is yet absolutely mandatory for such a video. I'll tell you more about the aims of the video when it will be published. I added some other files like a profile for the BuWizz App. The link to Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-27623/Anto/ford-mustang-hoonicorn-rtr-drift-car By the way, this morning I made a little teaser!
  11. I'm glad you like this gearbox! You're right, the lower frame can be removed, it's just to make the gearbox easier to integrate into a MOC. I have tried both the Bionicle and the bars with towball and the difference between them is really little. But I have a slight preference for the Bionicle parts since you don't have to adjust how much deep you push them into the knobs and even though they create a little bit of friction, the rotation is a bit smoother thanks to their greater diameter. I have tried to use beams instead of biscuits, and I couldn't feel the difference, both work the same. However using beams saves biscuits that may be useful for other purposes! This one is more compact than the one of the Lamborghini so yes, I'm sure it's possible! Indeed it seems to be challenging, but I'm sure it's possible. A way to do it is to make the gearbox 4 studs wider and put free wheels (red 16t) in the middle, so other axles can pass through. And add two knobs (to have 5 instead of 3). If you aren't limited by the width of the gearbox, this should work! It's a R+N+8-speed gearbox. For the foreward gears, the 4-speed gearbox does 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 while the 2+R+N one does 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2. When the 2+R+N gearbox is in reverse or in neutral, the position of the 4-speed gearbox doesn't matter. In neutral, the 4-speed gearbox isn't driven by the 2+R+N one. The reverse gear doesn't use the 4-speed gearbox. So they are 10 possible positions in total, 8 foreward speeds plus a neutral and a reverse. I hope you understand better how it works! I don't know how, but I'm sure it's possible! But the gearbox couldn't remain as compact at it currently is. To me the frames made the gearbox like "plug and play", everything around makes parts easy to fix. But you are free to make your own structure. There will probably be a little video soon, without editing for the moment because I'm very busy with another huge project! Just to show how it works.
  12. I made it almost a year ago, but I didn't have the time to make its presentation. It's a gearbox I made at the release of the rotary changeover catches. My purpose was to make a gearbox as compact as possible. So I decided to couple a 2 speed gearbox to a 4 speed gearbox. There are 2 advantages: firstly the gearing is more compact, and then the shift system is also pretty compact. When the changeover catch of the 4 speed gearbox makes one turn, it activates the one of the 2 speed gearbox. So to change the speeds from the lowest ratio to the highest, the 4 speed gearbox does 1; 2; 3; 4 while the 2 speed gearbox is in first gear; then the 4 speed gearbox activates the second speed of the 2 speed gearbox, and it does 1; 2; 3; 4 again. Little trick: when you make a double gearbox like this, it's important to be sure that the gears are in the right order. This means the 6th gear (2-2) must not to be lower than the 4th gear -1-4) or you cannot control the gearbox properly. So in Excel, I recreated the structure of the gearbox using cases in the calculations (for example F3*G3/F4*G4). Then I put the number of teeth of the gears I may use in the cases, and I got the final ratios of the gearbox. After some tries, I got a good result, and a perfectly controllable gearbox. To control this gearbox, I used the stepper of the Bugatti Chiron that I compacted a little bit (the piece in red). To finish, a modelization of the mechanic to have a clearer view of the gears: Finally, this is an extremly compact gearbox, easily controllable.
  13. Hi! I made my gearbox more compact and easier to use into a MOC. I used @SNIPE's idea about using the technic biscuits in order to make the gearbox more compact. I used a Bionicle part instead of a microphone for the shifting mechanism. It works very well. I moved the imput and the output, now they are at the center of the gearbox, so it's way easier to integrate this gearbox into a model. It's also possible and pretty easy to use it for a 4WD model (without central diff) since the red axle goes through the whole gearbox.
  14. Really compact! I especially like your use of the DBG part on the knob. I think I'll order some technic biscuits and try to build your design and see if there is not another way to make it more compact.
  15. That's it @iLego ! I got this part from the buggy #8048. By the way, I published the video! It was pretty difficult to make it since I used the GoPro Max. I recorded most of the videos in 360° and then reframed them to follow the kart exactly as I wanted. But it wasn't so easy. Currently, the only way to edit videos from GoPro Max using all the features available is to use a plugin in Adobe Premiere Pro. However, this software isn't well optimized, and editing a video in 360° requires a really high performance computer that you can't even find in sci-fi movies (the videos of the GoPro Max are in 5.6K). To be able to use a video in 360° into an editing software, it's necessary to convert it in another format that the software can read. I got 140Go of videos after conversion. Yeah. I was not able to use Adobe Premiere as it crashed when I tried to import a video on the timeline... So I used Hitfilm as usual, which is way more optimized than Premiere. I couldn't edit the videos as well as Premiere can do but I could make a video, which is not too bad. ^^ I encountered many issues, but I finally succeded in getting a video! See it as a training for the Gymkhana 4 that I'll try to do this summer. And tell me what you think about the video of the kart, I want to use your opinion for the upcoming Gymkhana.
  16. This is my new MOC! I wanted to make again a buggy but with a RC motor. It had to be as compact as possible and feature full independent suspensions. I wanted to make a different design. Generally for a buggy, you put two panels on each side and that's done. But I managed to change by doing something that needed more work (and that is orange!). I also tried to incorporate many little details: headlights, radiators, exhausts. This kart is of course powered by a BuWizz, to have more power! And it's way enough to play indoor or on a terrace! I spent much time on making a good chassis. At the rear, a suspended axle was required to make the chassis more compact. I centered the weight, so the weight balance is excellent! The grip is well balanced between the front and the rear, it's way better than for my previous buggies. The suspenion is really soft, so when you make the model fall from some centimeters, the bottom of the chassis touches the ground. But this allows having a bit of roll in the turns, which is quite nice to see and gives more realism - furthermore it makes the suspension really efficient. And I done building instructions! They are better than the ones of my Ford Mustang Hoonicorn. I use many buffers. It's a functionnality of LPUB3D that is useful to change certain sub-assemblies between two steps. It's also possible to make appear and disappear helper arrows or to change the position of some parts, as you can see when I fix the rear axle. The "little" inconvenient is that it requires a lot of work. During the modelization, we have to dupplicate every sub-model that will change. For instance there are 2 rear axles, but in each axle there are several other sub-models (left shock absorber, right one, left yellow gaz tank, right one...). Finally for this model I have 89 sub-models, for a model of 450 parts. The instructions are available here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-40021/Anto/fast-rc-cross-kart-powered-by-buwizz And I'll try to make a video!
  17. About the U-joints, I don't currently know if they will balance the pressure on the axles or not as I hope, I'll see with time. I have worked a bit on a small chassis which has got a 14L axle at the rear, and with time, the axle began to be sawed by the outside edges of the liftarms (close to the wheels), whereas the inside edge there got few damage. So I thought the pressure could be better balanced using U-joints, I'll see... @amorti Thanks! And yes the Ludicrous mode reveals the weakest point of every model, that's why I use 5.5L axles! :)
  18. Thanks! Exactly, but I think it's worth it! By "full independent suspension" I meant that the movement of a wheel doesn't depend on the one of another wheel. The rear wheels arent on the same pivot (as on a quad for instance, the rear wheels are linked, which is not the case here with the suspended axle). I'm not sure that the U-joints are really useful, I used them to try to reduce the friction due to the wheels bending their axle. So they are either useful or useless without affecting the performance.
  19. Hi! I have tried to control a knob with a wire connector, however it doesn’t work - the connector just gets stuck into the knob and doesn’t turn. You also missed the 90° locker for the 2-speed gearbox! But the use of the technic biscuits (I hope it’s the right name ^^) was a good idea!
  20. I agree, but the purpose was to make a compact gearing so I used the “classic techniques” and I tried to make a gearbox as compact as possible. The bracing is just done to hold all the gears, it’s not a solution that would be used in a MOC. To me, if someone wants to integrate my gearbox in a MOC, it will be necessary to build a new structure, so why making a bracing that won’t be used anyway?
  21. Thank you so much! Now it will be possible to build this gearbox without getting mad because of LDD.
  22. Finished MOC Do you remember my Reform Metrac H7X ? Reform also produces the Muli: As the project of my Citröen DS doesn’t really progresses, I do this project in WIP, to compensate. ^^ The functions will be close to the Metrac ones: 4WD with a 4 cylinders fake engine Steering with 3 modes Front and rear PTOs And I add: A pneumatic pump to add pneumatic tools Central joint (it’s only the front axle on the Metrac) Openable cab with a lever and a pump actionning a pneumatic cylinder. The best function! But this MOC will not be manual, because there is not so much room in the chassis. (I think it’s possible, but the playability will be extremely bad) So it will be remote controlled, using the BuWizz. So: Driving by 1 XL by axle Steering: 1 servo by axle. To have the 3 steering modes: a M motors controls a PFs switch -> it changes the sens of rotation of the rear servo, or it stops it. The pneumatic pump is powered by a M motor That was the start: And now I’m here: On these two pictures, you can see the rear PTO. On this side, the pneumatic pump: And here is the mecanism which allows the possibility to get 3 steering modes: The chassis is very, very compact. I think you can put an elephant on it, it will not move at all. For the tools, I think I’ll make a pneumatic arm (The pneumatic cylinders of the Mercedes truck would be very helpful, but I don’t have this set) And for the front I don’t know, so if you have ideas, tell me!