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Showing results for tags 'help'.
Found 211 results
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OK, so recently the 5 millionth topic was opened about storage. Let's keep it all to one sub-forum and one topic. How do you sort your LEGO? How do you store your LEGO? Discuss...
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The BTR-80 kit from Brickmania. Does anybody know what wheels Brickmania uses? I think its from a technic lego set, I cannot find the set. Please help.
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Why aren't there any any moc ideas posted? You have to search google very thoroughly in order to find stuff like this: I'd love to see peoples takes on how to build custom torsos or how to build custom limbs.. Or just outright clever ideas.. I'm currently stuck trying to figure out how to widen up a torso from the waist up in order to make a WH40K styled dreadnought torso.. If any of you have clever ideas you'd like to share, please post them below. Tips, ideas or frames like in the image is very helpful for newbie moccers.
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https://discord.gg/rQuFUuu I hope there's not some rule against advertising I glanced over. I hope to make this place a bit more popular, so I'll have more people to talk with LEGO about!
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Hello All: I'm starting this topic as a way for LEGO Train fans to ask questions about sets, track compatibility, power systems, and any other questions pertaining to LEGO Trains. All are invited to participate. Edit: Please note that set discontinuation should be discussed in the appropriate thread.
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Good Evening Everyone; Long time LEGO fan main choice of entertainment as a child but now coming back to it as an AFOL and need some help. I have decided to take on the Aliens APC and Dropship for my first MOC's. I've been using 'Missing Bricks' and 'HAVOC' creations and reference but I can't seem to figure out what exact parts make up the wheels on the APC from the LEGO website. Would someone be willing to give me some guidance? Time and consideration appreciated, see pics. Cheers
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Currently working on a new building, and seem to have hit a brick wall (pun not intended); I have no clue how to finish it :/ This is what I have so far, It's intended to be a comic shop, if the title didn't give it away: Does anyone have suggestions on how to finish it? I usually try to avoid symmetry in my builds but I'm at a loss here :(
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I'm programming my EV3 vehicle to be operated by an IR beacon remote. I've successfully got the car to be able to move, but I'm stuck on something else. My vehicle has a 4-speed transmission, and a medium motor shifts the gears. I used the remote's topmost button (the one that turns on the green light on the remote) for shifting the gearbox. But when I press it, something goes off. It's really hard to say, but what I know is that the topmost button isn't acting like a normal button. So the motor keeps on moving until the IR sensor realizes the green light is off. I really need help with the program because I just want the topmost button to act like a normal button so I can press it to make the medium motor shift one gear with a one second wait before shifting to the next one. I would love a very helpful response from someone that knows how to program the IR remote and if there is no way to get the topmost button to get the result I want, an alternative would be nice so I can be able to shift gears with the push of a button on the remote.
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So you think you'd like to dive into the world of the Brick Seas, however there is so much to read and so many rules that you are not even sure where to start! Fear not, it's actually quite easy to get started and the community here is really friendly and will help you along each step of the way! Never be afraid to ask questions in the introduction thread or any of the faction threads (linked below). For now let's look at exactly what you need to do to sign up and get started in one post! Step One: Choosing a Faction The first step is also one of the most important - choosing the faction that your character will pledge allegiance to. While you are never limited to only building scenes within your faction's territory (in fact many challenges may require you to build in other factions), faction choice will impact your role in BoBS. There are many things to consider, what style suits your current Lego collection, what interests you, which part of the game you wish to focus on etc. etc. Even the number of currently active players in each faction may influence your choice. The most important thing however, is to choose a faction that you are going to enjoy and be motivated to build for! There are four playable factions in the game, let's have a brief look at each one to assist in your choice. Corrington Primary Lego Influence: Imperial Guard (Red Coats) Primary real world influences: Great Britain, Renaissance Sweden and Denmark-Norway The Basics: Science and the enlightenment are main national characteristics for Corrington, and their main source of income is from their strong merchant fleet. A strong navy is required to protect their maritime mercantile interests and this tends to be their military focus. Corlander's strive to bring order and structure to the world. Typical Quote: "That flower is beautiful. We must conserve it and bring it to the national museum." If you see your sigfig crawling through the jungle to find a beautiful flower - join Corrington. Read more: Corrington thread Eslandola Primary Lego Influence: Imperial Armada Primary real world influences: Spain, Portugal and the Netherlands. Also some of the merchant republics such as Venice, Milan and Lübeck. The Basics: Trade and profit are the main national characteristics for Eslandola. Although nominally ruled by a King, a trio of very powerful trade companies are the power brokers and have recently established a republic in the colonies. Their main source of income is through vast property holdings and they have developed a strong army and navy to protect and aggressively expand their interests. Typical Quote: "Enough profit for the day? Don't make me laugh!" If you see your sigfig crawling through the jungle to find a shiny city of gold - join Eslandola. Read more: Eslandola thread Oleon Primary Lego Influence: Imperial Soldiers (Bluecoats) Primary real world influences: Pre-revolutionary France and Imperial Austria The Basics: The main national characteristics of Oleon are deeply rooted in their strict adherence to the religion known as 'The Faith' which together with the strong aristocracy form strong bases of political power. A great love for art and culture as well as ancient artefacts is also a national characteristic together with their famous wine making skills. Like Corrington they have developed a strong merchant fleet and navy. Although historically Oleon and Corrington have been bitter rivals, relations have been improving of late. Typical Quote: "May Zeus and Poseidon guide your journey." If you see your sigfig crawling through the jungle to find a mystical artefact - join Oleon. Read more: Oleon thread Sea Rats Primary Lego Influence: Pirates Primary real world influences: Real world Pirates and free settlements such as Nassau. The Basics: The Sea Rats are basically anyone in the new world who owe no allegiance to any of the old world empires. These men and women go their own way. Some are fierce pirate lords, making a living terrorising the Brick Seas, others are peaceful merchants who refuse to bend the knee to any King, and some settle down at a romantic place in the colonies. The Sea Rats are a loose confederation with no central authority, whose binding characteristic would probably be the fierce defence of their freedom to live life completely on their own terms. Typical Quote: "What? You've never heard the tales of the reckless Benjamin Morgan? Benjamin, brave and bold? Dread Pirate Captain Morgan, on his legendary ship, the Queen Annetta's Revenge? Morgan the Moray?" If you see your sigfig crawling through the jungle... because it's utterly drunk - join the Sea Rats. Read more: Sea Rats Thread Once you have chosen a faction, you are ready to move to step 2 and start building! (Next post)
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I have recently discovered a cool looking combiner model for Bionicle, it is officially made by Lego but only a picture was released: No instructions were released but I would like to build them, do you have any ideas on how to make these? The only tip included was this: "Tip: Using Onua Nuva and Pahrak-Kal, you can create the silver version of this Ape-like creature. By combining Pohatu Nuva and Nuhvok-Kal, you can also create his golden-faced twin!" Any help is appreciated
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I need help with making a signature. I know where the little trains come from.
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I said before in my previous post that I had some problems with my GX EV3 4x4 chassis that I needed to fix. Once again, it's more gear grinding/clicking, but this time it's only in the front and rear differential gears. The grinding occurs whenever the chassis tries to drive into a wall or when it tries to drive in different conditions (because as an SUV it should drive smoothly in dirt or uneven terrain). What also annoys me is that when I push the car, instead of letting the motors move, the differentials make clicking noises that, like I said before, sound like a machine gun. I really need help so I can stop the differentials from clicking so when the car tries to drive into the walls, the motors won't still move while the differentials click, and so the car can be a lot more versatile on uneven terrain (such as what I used for testing, blankets) without the differentials causing a problem when the car moves. Here's some pictures of the bottom of the chassis.
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I'm back again with another gear grinding issue but this one is a bit less critical. The grinding only occurs when my 4x4 SUV chassis (with Sariel's 4-Speed Sequential Transmission) is in a certain gear. Here's some photos of the chassis. The transmission is shifted to the speed where the nonstop grinding occurs. When in this gear (I believe it may be 3rd) The car is supposed to move, but it does very slowly while clicking noises fire like a machine gun. This is the only time when the gears grind other than, say, if the chassis hits a wall. When the clicking begins, I hear the driving rings shake (which awfully reminds me of the somewhat gear clicking in the Mercedes-Benz Arocs set). I would love a response a soon as possible to address the clicking problem so I can finish the chassis once and for all.
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This is my second post on the EuroBricks community and another question asking for as much help as I can get to master the art of the technic gearbox. Like I said in my previous post, for my Lexus GX EV3 4x4 SUV, I tried my best to use Sariel's 4-speed sequential and it ultimately failed on me. Quoting one of my replies... I would be relieved if I could finally finish this creation after five months of difficulty. Here are some pictures of the entire chassis. I said before that the issues with this was that the gears clicked a ridiculous amount at the highest gears which stopped the car from moving. (Hence the reason why the transmission I want needs to have a clutch gear to absorb the large amount of torque)
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Hello Guys! I am trying to find grease in America that would be safe to use on Lego 12v motors (from the 80s) without paying horrendous prices. I am wondering if anyone has found suitable grease in the U.S. I have had a few people tell e about ROCO 10905 but that would be $20 to have it shipped over here from Europe. Thanks -RailCo
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The 10 x 18 bucket in Black is used in this set, i am wondering if the older type in Yellow could be used instead? Part #2814: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=2814#T=C&C=3
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Hi, I have been working on a new MOC (which I will leave as a surprise) and I can't seem to build a tiny rear suspension with a buggy motor driving it. I have seen these in other models before, but it is just too hard to reverse-engineer it. I am trying to make it within 15L by 15L. Help is appreciated
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Please let me know how I would get my MOC photos down to 10.24 KB. I can't seem to find a way to do this. I have seen awesome people post their MOCS here. I can't seem to get it to the file size. Thank you for taking the time to read my post.
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I'm building a SUV drivetrain for my Lexus GX EV3 project that has independent suspension, four-wheel-drive, and a four-speed gearbox with a medium EV3 motor that shifts the gears. Unfortunately, after testing the drivetrain, I found that when in 3rd or 4th gear, the gears make a clicking noise when moving forward and then straight to backward. However, this clicking somewhat occurs less when going from reverse to forward. This clicking really "grinds my gears" and I don't know what to do to stop the gears from clicking. My gearbox is a custom version of Sariel's four-speed sequential that is fit for the vehicle I am building. The input in the transmission is switched to provide more speed. Two large EV3 motors drive the input. I've noticed that when the vehicle stops, it goes the opposite direction for a little bit. Also, like I already said, this clicking only happens in 3rd or 4th gear, but mostly the 4th gear since it brings the most speed. I tried to solve this clicking with different gears and whatnot, but no matter what they still clicked when the vehicle moved forward to backward. The motors and the gearing also bring a lot of torque as much as it brings speed, and this might be one of the problems. Is there any way I can solve this issue so the gear clicking will stop in this situation (moving foward and then straight to backward) for now on? Here's a photo of the bottom of the drivetrain. Thank you in advance for any assistance that you may be able to provide!
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Hello, I am reaching out to all 12v train users. I recently purchased and received a 12v train (the 7725). Unfortunately the motor is dead, I put it on the track after building the whole model and setting all the track up to find it not moving. At first I thought maybe if it hadn't run in awhile it would need a little help. That didn't work so I tried it by just connecting a wire to the motor itself and gently moved the wheels. The motor started to produce a light smoke so I immediately shut the power off and haven't tried anything since. I did see some life though at one point, it did move about 1/16 of a turn at best and I could hear it trying to move. If the seller is cooperative hopefully I can work something out with him. If not I was hoping many people on this forum could lead me in the right direction. Here is what I know about the motor: It looks to have been opened before. It is the version with the separate bogie pin. From what I can see there is some hair spun around the axles. I am wondering if I need to completely give up on the motor or if there is a way to fix or replace just the motor inside. I am really lost and would love any help that someone could give me. I looked for awhile but I haven't found a post about someone having the same problem as me. Even if someone has a broken lego casing for the motor but there electrics still work I could be interested in that as well. Thanks, -RailCo
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There seems to be a flood of "What should I buy" type topics lately. The problem with these topics is that if everyone made one over ever purchase the forum would become unreadable. Thus to solve this problem this topic has been created to be the new home for all such questions. Do note though that there there's a topic about this already but since a lot of you Technic guys seem to not want to hang out with the System guys I'll make a similar topic here, but please do realise that EB is one site, not a collection of many small ones. I'm making an exception here, not a rule... Ask away!
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Hello all, I have a quick question about the BBB medium wheels. I noticed many people have made MOCs with them and have been able to make the non-flanged wheel and the flanged wheels (i.e. an 0-6-0) be right next to each other. I am not sure how people did this because my non flanged wheel is the same depth as the flanged wheels. Also, I was wondering how people put traction tires on these wheels. Thanks! -RailCo
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Well, I recently took the plunge, and purchased a few Sbricks for use in my creations. In order to test the setup, I connected some motors, and used a profile I threw together. The setup I used has 2 SBricks being controlled by my device at the same time, and my problem is that, with one of the SBricks, I have two M motors hooked up to it, and when I activate them, they run just fine, but when I let the joystick return to center, the motors buzz, almost as if the SBrick is not fully shutting them off. I'm not sure if it's a problem with the SBrick, or not, as it is one I tested before, and it had trouble with controlling my other motors. Is there a setting I am not aware of that would fix this? Has anyone else had this issue? Update: I tested it, and it seems to be an issue with the brick, although, in a bizzaro twist, I don't have the problem with sliders, only when those channels are controlled by joysticks.
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Hi folks. I need some advice from people who have experience building large structures. I'm looking at building a GBC module that takes balls across a gap between two tables, that's high enough to walk under. I need a vertical lift of about 1.3m, and a horizontal travel of about 1m. Now, this would be by far the largest model I've ever undertaken, so my intention is to design the thing in LDraw before I buy anything. This means I can't see how sturdy the structure actually is, so I'm asking you all whether what I've designed so far is sensible. I've got two slightly different truss designs. One that I think would go better for the vertical parts, and one for the horizontal. Each is a single unit 16 studs in length, with the idea that you join as many units together as you need to get the length/height required. First, the vertical segment: And what three of them together look like: I feel that this truss is going to be strong in compression/tension, but all that space in the middle makes me nervous - is the 5x7 frame box going to be solid enough to make it strong in torsion as well? Next, the horizontal segment: And three of them together: This one I think would be quite resistant to bending in the up/down direction (exactly what you want for a horizontal beam supported at its ends), less so in the side/side direction, but also strong in compression/tension. This one would be somewhat heavier than the other - overkill? or is the extra strength warranted? I'd appreciate your thoughts on these two truss designs. If you want to see the .ldr file that these images came from, it's here. Regards Owen. P.S. If anybody wants to take these and make them into a tower crane for [TC8], go right ahead. EDIT: Yes, I know there are no triangles. I am relying on the rigidity provided by the 5x7 frames in place of diagonal bracing.
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This is a general topic for everyone to ask for help making a certain assembly in LDD. We have a topic like this for finding parts in LDD, so a topic for this would be useful too. [Hopefully, I can fill this first post with tips and tricks I can find in the forum in the next days/weeks.] Anyway, if you need to assemble something, you can ask here for help!
