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Found 56 results

  1. I'm building a SUV drivetrain for my Lexus GX EV3 project that has independent suspension, four-wheel-drive, and a four-speed gearbox with a medium EV3 motor that shifts the gears. Unfortunately, after testing the drivetrain, I found that when in 3rd or 4th gear, the gears make a clicking noise when moving forward and then straight to backward. However, this clicking somewhat occurs less when going from reverse to forward. This clicking really "grinds my gears" and I don't know what to do to stop the gears from clicking. My gearbox is a custom version of Sariel's four-speed sequential that is fit for the vehicle I am building. The input in the transmission is switched to provide more speed. Two large EV3 motors drive the input. I've noticed that when the vehicle stops, it goes the opposite direction for a little bit. Also, like I already said, this clicking only happens in 3rd or 4th gear, but mostly the 4th gear since it brings the most speed. I tried to solve this clicking with different gears and whatnot, but no matter what they still clicked when the vehicle moved forward to backward. The motors and the gearing also bring a lot of torque as much as it brings speed, and this might be one of the problems. Is there any way I can solve this issue so the gear clicking will stop in this situation (moving foward and then straight to backward) for now on? Here's a photo of the bottom of the drivetrain. Thank you in advance for any assistance that you may be able to provide!
  2. Hello, I am reaching out to all 12v train users. I recently purchased and received a 12v train (the 7725). Unfortunately the motor is dead, I put it on the track after building the whole model and setting all the track up to find it not moving. At first I thought maybe if it hadn't run in awhile it would need a little help. That didn't work so I tried it by just connecting a wire to the motor itself and gently moved the wheels. The motor started to produce a light smoke so I immediately shut the power off and haven't tried anything since. I did see some life though at one point, it did move about 1/16 of a turn at best and I could hear it trying to move. If the seller is cooperative hopefully I can work something out with him. If not I was hoping many people on this forum could lead me in the right direction. Here is what I know about the motor: It looks to have been opened before. It is the version with the separate bogie pin. From what I can see there is some hair spun around the axles. I am wondering if I need to completely give up on the motor or if there is a way to fix or replace just the motor inside. I am really lost and would love any help that someone could give me. I looked for awhile but I haven't found a post about someone having the same problem as me. Even if someone has a broken lego casing for the motor but there electrics still work I could be interested in that as well. Thanks, -RailCo
  3. Hello all, I have a quick question about the BBB medium wheels. I noticed many people have made MOCs with them and have been able to make the non-flanged wheel and the flanged wheels (i.e. an 0-6-0) be right next to each other. I am not sure how people did this because my non flanged wheel is the same depth as the flanged wheels. Also, I was wondering how people put traction tires on these wheels. Thanks! -RailCo
  4. Well, I recently took the plunge, and purchased a few Sbricks for use in my creations. In order to test the setup, I connected some motors, and used a profile I threw together. The setup I used has 2 SBricks being controlled by my device at the same time, and my problem is that, with one of the SBricks, I have two M motors hooked up to it, and when I activate them, they run just fine, but when I let the joystick return to center, the motors buzz, almost as if the SBrick is not fully shutting them off. I'm not sure if it's a problem with the SBrick, or not, as it is one I tested before, and it had trouble with controlling my other motors. Is there a setting I am not aware of that would fix this? Has anyone else had this issue? Update: I tested it, and it seems to be an issue with the brick, although, in a bizzaro twist, I don't have the problem with sliders, only when those channels are controlled by joysticks.
  5. So you think you'd like to dive into the world of the Brick Seas, however there is so much to read and so many rules that you are not even sure where to start! Fear not, it's actually quite easy to get started and the community here is really friendly and will help you along each step of the way! Never be afraid to ask questions in the introduction thread or any of the faction threads (linked below). For now let's look at exactly what you need to do to sign up and get started in one post! Step One: Choosing a Faction The first step is also one of the most important - choosing the faction that your character will pledge allegiance to. While you are never limited to only building scenes within your faction's territory (in fact many challenges may require you to build in other factions), faction choice will impact your role in BoBS. There are many things to consider, what style suits your current Lego collection, what interests you, which part of the game you wish to focus on etc. etc. Even the number of currently active players in each faction may influence your choice. The most important thing however, is to choose a faction that you are going to enjoy and be motivated to build for! There are four playable factions in the game, let's have a brief look at each one to assist in your choice. Corrington Primary Lego Influence: Imperial Guard (Red Coats) Primary real world influences: Great Britain, Renaissance Sweden and Denmark-Norway The Basics: Science and the enlightenment are main national characteristics for Corrington, and their main source of income is from their strong merchant fleet. A strong navy is required to protect their maritime mercantile interests and this tends to be their military focus. Corlander's strive to bring order and structure to the world. Typical Quote: "That flower is beautiful. We must conserve it and bring it to the national museum." If you see your sigfig crawling through the jungle to find a beautiful flower - join Corrington. Read more: Corrington thread Eslandola Primary Lego Influence: Imperial Armada Primary real world influences: Spain, Portugal and the Netherlands. Also some of the merchant republics such as Venice, Milan and Lübeck. The Basics: Trade and profit are the main national characteristics for Eslandola. Although nominally ruled by a King, a trio of very powerful trade companies are the power brokers and have recently established a republic in the colonies. Their main source of income is through vast property holdings and they have developed a strong army and navy to protect and aggressively expand their interests. Typical Quote: "Enough profit for the day? Don't make me laugh!" If you see your sigfig crawling through the jungle to find a shiny city of gold - join Eslandola. Read more: Eslandola thread Oleon Primary Lego Influence: Imperial Soldiers (Bluecoats) Primary real world influences: Pre-revolutionary France and Imperial Austria The Basics: The main national characteristics of Oleon are deeply rooted in their strict adherence to the religion known as 'The Faith' which together with the strong aristocracy form strong bases of political power. A great love for art and culture as well as ancient artefacts is also a national characteristic together with their famous wine making skills. Like Corrington they have developed a strong merchant fleet and navy. Although historically Oleon and Corrington have been bitter rivals, relations have been improving of late. Typical Quote: "May Zeus and Poseidon guide your journey." If you see your sigfig crawling through the jungle to find a mystical artefact - join Oleon. Read more: Oleon thread Sea Rats Primary Lego Influence: Pirates Primary real world influences: Real world Pirates and free settlements such as Nassau. The Basics: The Sea Rats are basically anyone in the new world who owe no allegiance to any of the old world empires. These men and women go their own way. Some are fierce pirate lords, making a living terrorising the Brick Seas, others are peaceful merchants who refuse to bend the knee to any King, and some settle down at a romantic place in the colonies. The Sea Rats are a loose confederation with no central authority, whose binding characteristic would probably be the fierce defence of their freedom to live life completely on their own terms. Typical Quote: "What? You've never heard the tales of the reckless Benjamin Morgan? Benjamin, brave and bold? Dread Pirate Captain Morgan, on his legendary ship, the Queen Annetta's Revenge? Morgan the Moray?" If you see your sigfig crawling through the jungle... because it's utterly drunk - join the Sea Rats. Read more: Sea Rats Thread Once you have chosen a faction, you are ready to move to step 2 and start building! (Next post)
  6. One thing I like to do is make MOCs, but design them as if they were official sets. One example here is my Senate Duel MOC: However, it has no play features at all, apart from the ability to slide around (thanks to boat bottoms) and the ability for minifigs to sit down, both of which are very bland. The ability for minifigs to sit down could be advertised as a play feature, but I still need 1-2 more. Does anyone have any ideas? :) Thanks in advance, and no, clipping stud shooters on the side is not an option VaderFan2187
  7. Hello! I have noticed recently that I can't buy any Lego from any other amazon site than my home country. I am curious why this is? Also since I cannot buy Lego internationally anymore from amazon, does anyone know of other shops from the UK or Europe that ship to the U.S. internationally they can recommend. All suggestions appreciated -RailCo
  8. Hi all. I'm currently making a moc with some small sets. But I wanted to make some extended outriggers but the parts in the sets I'm using don't have 1x13 gear racks and the 1x7 gear racks are already used (which are anyways a bit too short). Is there an good way of making extendable outriggers without a gear rack?
  9. My first attempt at an Un-Specific Pacific (USP) was met with only partial success, it wasn't very fast or powerfull, it looked too toylike for my tastes and it was mechanically unreliable. The chassis and drive was basically a stretched and bastardised EN chassis and it was clearly not fit for purpose. I've been planning a v2 for a long time now, and have finally started. The XL motor is getting replaced with 2 L motors and the gearing has been simplified significantly. This has vastly improved the speed and (i think) the power to the wheels, but the has come at the expence of grip, causing not only significant wheel spin but also it to routinely pop the con rod from the leading wheels. It's powered through the centre (flangless) wheels, which drive the outer (flanged) wheels via the con rod. I did this in an effort to maximize the weight and power applied to the two flanged wheels, but that's looking like a dead end right now. Any ideas, suggestions or tips would be greatly received. Current build (tender will probably stay largely the same as the original build, although I'm toying with seeing if those little baring will make the standard Lego train wheel assembly a little less draggy). And v1 (before all the bits had arrived). Once I have it mechanically where I want it, I want to give it a smaller boiler and a more tapered cab roof, plus any and all grebelings I can think of.
  10. Hello, I am trying to reverse-engineer a MOC by RM8. I am having trouble making the front suspension and steering sturdy. Does anyone have ay ideas of how to make it more stable? Here is what I have so far: Any advice is appriciated. Thanks in advance. Here is the video the truck is in.
  11. I've been researching miltary moc's for months now, and finally have a couple of vehicles built and I was wondering how other people would start. I have a decent sized collection and was hoping to do the moc in a grayscale (white, gray, black). I was wondering if you had any advice for moc's of any size. Thanks- kartracer21
  12. I actually genuinely dont get what these do? seems you can add gears to this, what is the point of that? I am not a steering and geometry expert or a car person, are these designed to add some interesting new techniques and building options?
  13. I'm building a 6-speed sequential gearbox for use in a future MOC and I've come across an issue. Basically, I need to control three driving rings with a single input, but I can't figure out how to do it. I'm familiar with the standard method of controlling two rings by using eccentric mechanisms 90 degrees out of phase, but this doesn't work with 3. I need six positions that can be selected with a single axle. I don't need a paddle-shifter - I can do that bit myself. The positions must be in order like this: [The three changeover catches are in a line, F means flipped forwards, R means flipped backwards, O means in the middle/neutral] FOO ROO OFO ORO OOF OOR This is all to do with the way the gears are arranged (I needed the ratios to be close; difference between each gear is around 1.3x). I can't change this. The crucial thing is that the mechanism must be compact. I can't give exact dimensions, but I'm quite pushed for space in this MOC. Thanks in advance for any help!
  14. Hello everyone, I am fairly new to this forum and noticed that there are many "guilds" that run the place. I was wondering if this forum is used to support the worlds and story lines that have been set before me, or if it is encouraged to bring in original story lines. Excuse my noobery, -Deme
  15. I've recently emerged from my dark ages, only to be greeted by my entire collection dismantled inside of a large bin. Because I want to finally be able to utilize all of my resources when building, I've been attempting to organize my collection. However, I don't want to end up completely organizing my collection, only to get lazy and end up undoing all of my work. So, does anyone have a method of organization that would allow me to find what I need fairly easily, but not take me days to accomplish?
  16. I have been thinking about trying to build 41999, i have save money on PF parts i would like to use the stuff in 9398. The V2 IR was very easy to remove, just two pins....but without taking apart 9398 or removing a tons of there any easy way to get out the servo motor or the L motors without too much hassle? Or is it a nightmare job that would require a big rebuild?
  17. Hi all, I am rebuilding all my sets to see if they are complete. Today i rebuild set 357 firestation. I do this with the help of bricklink to find all the correct pieces. Bricklink stated that there are 4 4-long en 1-wide bricks with a legoland engraving in the set. 1 in white and 3 in red. I know where the white one belongs in the set. But where do the red ones go? I can't figure it out.
  18. Hi, I really hate to start a new topic asking a question that's probably been asked a thousand times, but I cannot find the answer for the life of me. How do I find the pieces count in an LDD build? Can someone please link me to a topic explaining or explain to me how?
  19. i have been looking over the parts list for 41999 and it has some of the rarest and most exclusive parts, notably the Dark Blue and Metallic Silver parts. i was looking at 42064 and noticed this search ship features quite a few of those rare parts, can anyone double check or spot them for me? do i see the 1x11 and 1x15 liftarms on Drak blue?....i also see the small Dark Blue panels 87080 and 87086, can anoyne see any other liftarms or Technic connectors? as someone who missed out on this set i am interested in trying to find and collect the unique parts to i can build this beautiful set, i have seen it rebuilt in others colours but i think Dark Blur looks the best.
  20. Hi guys, I'd like to create a set, a small one, for a series I invented, that is some kind of saga, now this one I thinked should be one of the smallest in the series, a set priced 14,99€ and is inspired by a real gate. In the file you will find some reference photos and a prototype, made by myself, but that lacks a lot. I tried to make it, and I did my best, but it's not already what I'm looking for. Now what I ask you guys is to think as a real lego designer, so take this model and review it, change whatever you want or even start it again from the beginning, to make it looks like a real set, but the most important is: make it cool! This is not a contest, just an help I ask you. This idea could be interesting because everyone can make a different thing, that is related with his idea of lego set. Sorry for bad english. hope you enjoy this
  21. I need to change a minifigure's head around for a moc but the head won't move, is there a way I can solve this problem?
  22. Hi everyone, Since I don't have this part, and it is very expensive, I was wondering if anyone had a brick-built replacement for this part, with the correct geometery. I am using it in this assembly: (go to image #7) Thank you all in advance.
  23. I have a question regarding a changeover issue with the 42054 Class tractor set. In the rear of the set is the crane grabber unit with 2 levers/changeovers. With my model, the right lever (facing the rear/crane) seems to activate the mechanism even while in neutral. Has this happened to anyone else? Does anyone have a suggestion for a new(ish) Technic builder to correct it? I took the unit off and played with the mechanism for a bit, but cannot tell what the cause might be.
  24. As my profile shows, I'm a new member to this website, and as such, is it correct i would need to post 10 things before being able to post to a specific forum, and would this post count as one? I'm limited to 102.4kb of attachments per post (my pictures are 200-500kb); does that increase after my first 10 posts?
  25. I need a LEGO program that alows me to create building instructions for my models, but not LD, not only because the building instructions aren't good, but also because my build have an RC buggy motor that is not on LDD, and I'm making a car contest in which the winner get building instructions for a LEGO bmw Isetta, and I want to give high quality stuff. The builder who suggest the program that works better for me, will also get BUilding instructions of it for the collaboration. Please help me with this, it would be really appreciated! Link to the contest if you are interested: