[MOC] Rugged supercar - Hammerhead (1:9 scale) - Revisiting

[r-guo08]

Wonderful! I am going to tear down my 42056 and build this one. Just one question, how is the size compared to 42056?

[Victor Imaginator]

No more dogbones((( Sad, but i still can't build this car yet. I need CLAAS or Porsche.

[Didumos69]

5 hours ago, r-guo08 said:

Wonderful! I am going to tear down my 42056 and build this one. Just one question, how is the size compared to 42056?

Thanks! The Porsche body is 75x31x16 studs, the Hammerhead body is 59x27x14 studs. Good luck!

12 minutes ago, Victor Imaginator said:

No more dogbones((( Sad, but i still can't build this car yet. I need CLAAS or Porsche.

Too bad. How far are you?

[r-guo08]

Just now, Didumos69 said:

Thanks! The Porsche body is 75x31x16 studs, the Hammerhead body is 59x27x14 studs. Good luck!

Too bad. How far are you?

Thanks a lot, Didumos69. I am going to tear down my Porsche tonight. 

[Victor Imaginator]

7 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

Too bad. How far are you?

Moscow, Russia) But i hope i'll get my own Porsche soon. I just need to solve rest of problems caused by moving to new house.

[Didumos69]

9 minutes ago, Victor Imaginator said:

Moscow, Russia) But i hope i'll get my own Porsche soon. I just need to solve rest of problems caused by moving to new house.

Haha, I meant: How far is your build, which step in the instructions? Goog luck with your new house!

Edited May 31, 2017 by Didumos69

[Victor Imaginator]

26 minutes ago, Didumos69 said:

Haha, I meant: How far is your build, which step in the instructions? Goog luck with your new house!

At steering rack - while i remaking front suspension for using 42000 hubs instead of new black ones (goodbye Ackerman), i found that i used all of my dogbones. I have 4 more used in my unfinished Unimog, but i must finish Unimog first anyway)

[stevenhalim]

Thanks Didumos for the model and Blakbird, Busterhaus for the BI.

Btw I got this message from PayPal when I tried to donate: "If you came to this page from another website, please return to that site (don't use your browser's Back button) and restart your activity."

As I don't think I will buy official Technic set 2017, I treat this as my current (non official) flagship model of 2017 and a real modern version of 8880 :).

I have cleared the build of the chassis and starting the body now. Currently struggling to substitute parts to make the body visually coherent with the parts that I already own (no budget for Bricklink...)

I initially want to keep Paul's Scorpion CK-R built, but after halfway through the build of the chassis, I realised that I have to destroy it (only have 1 set of Porsche wheels and #23801 wheel hubs) AND also destroy many of my other built models to cannibalise mostly their DOG BONES (have 12, lacked 10 :( have to improvise with two #63869 and one (or two) #32184 to make it dog-bone like structure whenever possible) and #44809 (there are 16 blacks, 8 LBGs, 4 reds of these :O).

The overall build experience so far is very positive. My first Technic supercar with anti roll bar. The ruggedness is real, survived abuse from my 3 years old boy during day time :).

As it seems that nobody has tried (publicly) RC-ing this and I like RC cars, I may try RC-ing this Rugged Supercar and report when done.

[Didumos69]

4 hours ago, stevenhalim said:

Thanks Didumos for the model and Blakbird, Busterhaus for the BI.

Btw I got this message from PayPal when I tried to donate: "If you came to this page from another website, please return to that site (don't use your browser's Back button) and restart your activity."

As I don't think I will buy official Technic set 2017, I treat this as my current (non official) flagship model of 2017 and a real modern version of 8880 :).

I have cleared the build of the chassis and starting the body now. Currently struggling to substitute parts to make the body visually coherent with the parts that I already own (no budget for Bricklink...)

I initially want to keep Paul's Scorpion CK-R built, but after halfway through the build of the chassis, I realised that I have to destroy it (only have 1 set of Porsche wheels and #23801 wheel hubs) AND also destroy many of my other built models to cannibalise mostly their DOG BONES (have 12, lacked 10 :( have to improvise with two #63869 and one (or two) #32184 to make it dog-bone like structure whenever possible) and #44809 (there are 16 blacks, 8 LBGs, 4 reds of these :O).

The overall build experience so far is very positive. My first Technic supercar with anti roll bar. The ruggedness is real, survived abuse from my 3 years old boy during day time :).

As it seems that nobody has tried (publicly) RC-ing this and I like RC cars, I may try RC-ing this Rugged Supercar and report when done.

You're welcome! And thanks for taking on the challenge of building this model. Would be nice to see some pictures !

I'm really curious how RC-ing is going to turn out .

[stevenhalim]

I am done with the build (non RC at this stage). I use (Porsche) orange as the secondary color as my car base is the sacrificed Porsche set, so of course I have orange color as the most available color during the build. I substitute (various red) parts that I don't have with black or LBG/DBG parts. Somehow manage to build this with my current sets without bricklinking a single part. Some connections are not as strong as the original but it "works" fine for my liking.

Currently what I like the most from this build is the suspension system. Very low ride height like stock Porsche is like real supercar but it won't work on non-flat surface and stock Porsche cannot be rolled over your own finger. This one has ~2 studs ground clearance, anti-roll bar system (both axles) and torsion bar (rear only), the first Technic supercar that I build that has these combined features. In the attached picture, I am turning the front wheel (to the left) and the left front is over a bump (Porsche orange bag), the Ackermann steering effect is visible with the left front turning more than right front (and exaggerated due to some slack). As soon as it past the bump, all wheels quickly want to be flat on the ground again, restoring the ~2 studs ground clearance.

The 4-speed gearbox seems to have the fewest number of total gears used to achieve 4 speeds :O (esp when compared with my attempt to motorized the Porsche last year) so I have a feeling I can put (real) motor(s) in place of the (fake) v8 engine and through the gearbox this time to drive the whole car. For steering, the natural placement of servo motor will be around the HoG section. I am also planning to put servo motor on the gear shift system too (sacrificing the right passenger seat) to see if RC gear change when this car moves is possible (or not).

As the body is very closely integrated to the chassis, I will have to do major surgery to mod this to RC so let's see the results in the next few days.

[Didumos69]

On 7-6-2017 at 5:58 AM, stevenhalim said:

Currently what I like the most from this build is the suspension system. Very low ride height like stock Porsche is like real supercar but it won't work on non-flat surface and stock Porsche cannot be rolled over your own finger. This one has ~2 studs ground clearance, anti-roll bar system (both axles) and torsion bar (rear only), the first Technic supercar that I build that has these combined features. In the attached picture, I am turning the front wheel (to the left) and the left front is over a bump (Porsche orange bag), the Ackermann steering effect is visible with the left front turning more than right front (and exaggerated due to some slack). As soon as it past the bump, all wheels quickly want to be flat on the ground again, restoring the ~2 studs ground clearance.

I'm glad you like the suspension. I wanted to build suspension that really adds something when moving the car around.

On 7-6-2017 at 5:58 AM, stevenhalim said:

The 4-speed gearbox seems to have the fewest number of total gears used to achieve 4 speeds :O (esp when compared with my attempt to motorized the Porsche last year) so I have a feeling I can put (real) motor(s) in place of the (fake) v8 engine and through the gearbox this time to drive the whole car. For steering, the natural placement of servo motor will be around the HoG section. I am also planning to put servo motor on the gear shift system too (sacrificing the right passenger seat) to see if RC gear change when this car moves is possible (or not).

I really like that you're trying to motorize it. The 4-speed gearbox indeed has very few gears involved. I learned from the Porsche that having too many gears can cause a lot of friction. I also deliberately made sure the central diff is sandwiched between gears, so the chances of slipping are minimized. What might be a problem though, is that the gear ratios are quite far apart, they range from 1:3.5 up to 1:0.8.

I'm also very curious whether you will succeed in operating the gear shift system with a servo motor.

Good luck and please keep us posted!

[AFOLegofan66]

Hi there just posted some photo's of your finished MOC. It's a beauty for sure. I thought it deserved a bit of chrome!! Thanks for the great build!!

http://bricksafe.com/pages/AFOLegofan66/latest-mocs-for-june-2017

[Didumos69]

4 hours ago, AFOLegofan66 said:

Hi there just posted some photo's of your finished MOC. It's a beauty for sure. I thought it deserved a bit of chrome!! Thanks for the great build!!

http://bricksafe.com/pages/AFOLegofan66/latest-mocs-for-june-2017

Thanks for taking the time to build it! Nice to see a version with the original color scheme, except for the popping exhausts of course . What is your impression with respect to reliability and foolproofness?

[AFOLegofan66]

firstly this is a Lego that any of my grandkids can play with.....a first for me!! You can pick it up almost anywhere and NO parts fall off. You can drop it (of course a reasonable height) and nothing bad happens...so over all a keeper for my collection !! I hope that is what you wanted to hear!!!

http://bricksafe.com/pages/AFOLegofan66/latest-mocs-for-june-2017

[Didumos69]

12 hours ago, AFOLegofan66 said:

firstly this is a Lego that any of my grandkids can play with.....a first for me!! You can pick it up almost anywhere and NO parts fall off. You can drop it (of course a reasonable height) and nothing bad happens...so over all a keeper for my collection !! I hope that is what you wanted to hear!!!

I guess I did. I did my best to make it reliable and foolproof and like to know how people perceive it. Glad to know it works out the way I wanted . I guess this is indeed the type of guy for whom I designed this car .

Edited June 9, 2017 by Didumos69

[arshiaIQ]

I can strongly admit that this is the Lego supercar of my dreams... everything is great, I really appreciate your work. Everything is fine about it, and it is certainly unique... robust and rigid like iron scafolding :D I think no one has ever seen such a robust thing even from the leading lego designers.

I just scaned the whole instructions to have an idea of things... I should also thank @Blakbird for such an effort on designing the instructions and pulishing it for free :D

Aside the build, I have been reading the users feedback about their building experiences and comments, I really love your compassion and enthusiasm in your replies to them and your reactions to their ideas and compliments and changes are seemless and lovely, this is above everything IMO ;)) you are a good man, then a good builder indeed, hoping to see you like this forever

Btw I havent built it yet, but I am going to. Im thinking how to use 42043's wishbones here cause i dont have any... also with the dogbones which i just have 7... i also have to modify the great bodywork in order to fit my limited inventory of panels. I just dont know what to do with the lack of all four wheel hubs :| and 4 cv-joints :/ (i just have 2, one from arocs the other one posted by our dear friend @Nick Barrett from England to Iran for me :D - all due to inavailability of bricklink and payments here...) I hope you could help me with ideas for wheel hubs and cv-joints.

Great luck with your future mocs. Seeing the potential to be the next sheepo in you by seeing your previous moc(s) :D

[Didumos69]

Thank you @arshiaIQ! I'm afraid I can't handle this much praise, but I appreciatie it.

1 hour ago, arshiaIQ said:

Btw I havent built it yet, but I am going to. Im thinking how to use 42043's wishbones here cause i dont have any... also with the dogbones which i just have 7... i also have to modify the great bodywork in order to fit my limited inventory of panels. I just dont know what to do with the lack of all four wheel hubs :| and 4 cv-joints :/ (i just have 2, one from arocs the other one posted by our dear friend @Nick Barrett from England to Iran for me :D - all due to inavailability of bricklink and payments here...) I hope you could help me with ideas for wheel hubs and cv-joints.

 I will take a look at how you could utilize the 42043 wishbones and come back to that. As for the CV-joints, you could replace 4 CV-joints with U-joints, but you still need 4 CV-males to insert into the wheel hubs.

[Didumos69]

22 minutes ago, LvdH said:

I love how you try to solve other people's part availability problems 

Thanks! I guess I feel honored that people are enthousiastic about this build and want to build it event though they don't have all parts.

36 minutes ago, Didumos69 said:

 I will take a look at how you could utilize the 42043 wishbones and come back to that. As for the CV-joints, you could replace 4 CV-joints with U-joints, but you still need 4 CV-males to insert into the wheel hubs.

@arshiaIQ, this is what you could do, but there will be quite some stress on the 3L thin levers in the upper A-arms.

[arshiaIQ]

Thats great! Everything seems awesome. There might be stress but the best we can do is this :D

Can you help me with the wheel hubs too...?

[Didumos69]

23 hours ago, arshiaIQ said:

Can you help me with the wheel hubs too...?

That is going to be very hard. I tried to make custom hubs but it's not possible to fit U-joints between the pins with ball-joints.

Edited June 11, 2017 by Didumos69

[Didumos69]

On 18-5-2017 at 3:15 PM, LvdH said:

@Didumos69 Yep, I found that out quickly. Although they do exist in orange, which is close enough for me!

On 18-5-2017 at 3:50 PM, agrof said:

If You can wait a bit more, than the new 60158 set might bring a solution for You (I am not sure if it is the same yellow, but looks minifig yellow):

Hint: old Bionicle sets are full with black 3L pins, I bought 6-7 years ago ~9 kg Bionicle for cheap, and still live from it... many useless pieces, but tons of good one. 

On 18-5-2017 at 4:14 PM, davebarrett said:

Looks like flame orange, not yellow unfortunately.

Sadly enough, the 60158-small panels are indeed not yellow, but flame yellowish orange.

Edited June 12, 2017 by Didumos69

[arshiaIQ]

Ive just finished building the chassis... the smoothest drivetrain I have ever seen!!! Unexpectedly smooth

Im going to buy some water-based lubricants to lubricate the drivetrain, for even smoother movement, so I can RC-ize this thing. I just can say its lovely. Planning to change the interior color to RED and a white&LBG bodywork. Also blue calipers make it really really eyecatching. It was a great experience building this, only used 8 dogbones and everything is fine using some modifications.

[Didumos69]

12 minutes ago, arshiaIQ said:

Ive just finished building the chassis... the smoothest drivetrain I have ever seen!!! Unexpectedly smooth

Im going to buy some water-based lubricants to lubricate the drivetrain, for even smoother movement, so I can RC-ize this thing. I just can say its lovely. Planning to change the interior color to RED and a white&LBG bodywork. Also blue calipers make it really really eyecatching. It was a great experience building this, only used 8 dogbones and everything is fine using some modifications.

Good to know! How did you deal with not having the wheel hubs? I don't know much about motorizing, but why lubricate the drivetrain if it's smooth already? 

[arshiaIQ]

14 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

Good to know! How did you deal with not having the wheel hubs? I don't know much about motorizing, but why lubricate the drivetrain if it's smooth already? 

Ill send pictures when I arrived home. Lubrication for extra smoothness :D

Do you have any suggestions for a new RC-friendly gear set? With closer ratios... 0.8 to 3.5 is so much for any motor.

[Didumos69]

9 hours ago, arshiaIQ said:

Do you have any suggestions for a new RC-friendly gear set? With closer ratios... 0.8 to 3.5 is so much for any motor.

I'm afraid not. You could skip the center diff an replace it with a single 10L axle with a 16t gear on one side and a 20t gear on the other, the latter sandwiched between 2 12t gears, but that would leave you with two speeds being the same.

Perhaps you could just skip first or fourth gear and use only 3 speeds.

Edited June 14, 2017 by Didumos69