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Showing results for tags 'advice'.
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Hi! This is my third MOC, it's a Pagoda Temple on a little creek. I wanted to build a winter situation, with the temple on a rocky base. I don't know if i do a good job with the rock, I'm not convinced. Also the water, there are some trick to improve it? What do you think? I can improve it? (sorry for bad english)
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Hi. I'm a Lego Technic MOC builder but when I got into Lego years ago I have got a lot of sets and made some... interesting MOCs. I'm considering to change up my display setup to make it look better, and I thought asking for advice and suggestions would be a great idea. Here's the collection as of now: The left shelf has my MOCs and the right shelf has sets and space MOCs. (The posters above are going to be removed) Left Shelf On the top of the left shelf are cars I made over 3 years ago. They're not pretty, and I probably won't be taking them apart for new builds since I'm giving my full time to Technic. On the middle of the shelf is some custom Bionicle figures I made as part of a weird story I made on the now defunct Lego.com gallery. On the bottom of the shelf is a... quirky house with a living room, kitchen, closet, bathroom, and bedroom that I made probably four years ago, broke, and rebuilt. It serves no use and its use as a display piece is kind of worthless, but it's one of the biggest things I built at the time. The playground on the middle shelf used to be connected to the right of the house. It hurts to remember having it on my dresser not playing with it because the house wasn't pretty. I should rebuild the house into something new but I'm keeping it as a memory and since all the pieces are a different color and I have no idea what to build. MineCraft Display A ton of MineCraft sets I got to connect to each other and make a cool display. Unfortunately I ignore it often and never got to my plans to put a MineCraft wallpaper up to make it look like a set box, but I'd like to. Right Shelf Just built sets and space MOCs I made forever ago. Top Shelf I expanded the shelf above by placing two poster frames and holding them up with a bar mounted in the wall, making it easy for removal and since I don't want to use a permanent structure. I like it but it's impossible to see items placed all the way back, so I don't know if I want to keep it or not. Here's the bar it was on... And here's the shelf I put the boards on top of. A lot of the items on the shelves are builds I don't have as much interest in as the large Creator cars I want to display here so I'm open for ideas. If this was your space to display your Lego collection, what would you do? How would you display creations you like and the ones that are not as interesting?
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Hey folks, it's me again asking for your advice on which Lego Star Wars set to buy! This time it's the 75105 TFA Millennium Falcon for like 110€, the 75190 First Order Star Destroyer for about 120€ or 75156 Krennic's Imperial Shuttle for 100€. Thanks in advance for your advice! (If this is inappropriate, just move it or delete please!) :D
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Hey guys, I know that several people before me created similar threads but here, there are some specific people from whom I would really like to learn how they design modulars or non-modular buildings, from where they get inspiration, how do they start to design and which techniques they use to create their incredible buildings - so I mention them here. Would be extremely appreciated if you can share some of your knowledge and experiences. @snaillad, @cimddwc, @RoxYourBlox, @Pate-keetongu, @alois, @Norton74, @peedeejay, @Pakita, @lookl, @paupadros, @Kristel, @BrickyBoy, @AllanSmith, @fillishave, @Xenomurphy, @Brickenberg, @Jellyeater, @oirad 72, @sander1992, @DigitalDreams, @Skalldyr, @drdesignz, @Wodanis, @Berthil, @tkel86, @Captain Green Hair, @Stelario, @spaceman76, @PaddyBricksplitter, @Kalais, @pj_bosman, @Man with a hat, @Basiliscus, @kris kelvin, @Lasse, @Morty, @Sheriff von Snottingham, @Pepa Quin, @Inyongbricks, @mautara, @flat_four, @jaapxaap, @quy, @sasbury, @chumuhou, @Nannan, @nebraska, @Elostirion, @Imagine, @puddleglum, @genecyst, @Luky1987, @Gabor, @MichalPL, @higdon, @Gabe Umland, @Startbrickingtoday, @dvdliu, @Xtopher, @Toltomeja, @Klikstyle, @Colonel, @andybear@hk, @koffiemoc, @Naptown11, @SavaTheAggie, @tsi, @Regenerate builder, @mccoyed, @Brickextreme, @brickextreme2, @Wedge09, @SERVATOR, @BrickRally217, @macsergey, @Superfunk, @Ayrlego, @Chorduroy, @Dfenz, @denil85, @vecchiasignoraceppo, @SlyOwl, @kreimkoek, @Spacebrick, @frumpy, @teabox, @mouseketeer, @norlego, @Subix, @Bricksky, @TJJohn12, @Nick Barrett, @Legodt, @Danpb, @CorvusA, @Chapachuk, @tkatt, @otterlilly, @ranghaal, @nuno2500, @Hoexbroe, @wingyew29, @de-marco, @theycallmemrdarko, @savetheclocktower, @hugosantos, @Nieks, @TheBear, @TheLET, @Svelte, @modestolus, @exis, @wanseetoon, @Erdbeereis, @dalle, @chiukeung99, @eos512, @stej123, @6kyubi6, @LegoJalex, @Brickthing, @Anne Mette, @Ymarilego, @Clark, @Matija Grguric, @Ron Dayes, @Neverroads, @Kapp, @o0ger, @Asper, @Bennemans, @Matn, @Romanos, @Esben Kolind, @Minifig Lecturer, @Skrytsson, @brickbink, @sweetsha, @Konajra, @frogstudio, @WetWired, @pinioncorp, @Scrat, @crises_crs, @Nightfall, @SzU, @lisqr, @Huaojozu, @Klikstyle, @Bricked1980, @oo7, @brickbink, @Derfel Cadarn, @Priovit70, @CoolerTD, @Swan Dutchman, @Parks and Wrecked Creation, @Know Your Pieces, @adde51, @Lindon, @MaximB, @Zilmrud, @Mestari, @Fenom, @Adeel Zubair, @FiliusRucilo, @Wineyard, @vedosololego, @JanetVanD, @sdrnet, @Vincent Q, @Cecilie, @papercla, @Aliencat, @fonz, @Teddy, @Majkel, @Disco86, @Jasper Joppe Geers, @jaredchan, @Legopard, @Rolli, @Anio, @jalemac34, @Vincent Kessels, @Delbaerov, @Giacinto Consiglio, @ryantaggart, @vitreolum, @Alex, @eurotrash, @gabrielerava, @L@go, @STHLM, @sonicstarlight, @DK_Titan, @wooootles, @Hinckley, @castor-troy, @ER0L, @polarstein, @Elysiumfountain, @Tobysan, @Tijger-San, @Gunman, @alex54, @Palixa And The Bricks, @Redhead1982, @thomassio, @carebear, @RogerSmith, @gotoAndLego, @2013-lego, @niteangel, @MnnMtq, @kevin8, @koalayummies, @sheo, @hermez, @stef2280, @Cunctator, @domino39, @CarsonBrick, @eliza, @brickcitydepot and @Dakar A I know, that list is enormous, there are some who designed billions of buildings and some just one but they all absolutely deserve to be here! The people I mentioned here are personally my favorite MOCers (according to my taste). —But others, please feel free to share your knowledges and experiences, maybe I forgot to mention you or I just didn’t discover your beautiful buildings, and in this way I’ll discover
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Hello! I am just curious about this, and was wondering if anyone here has had experience in selling your MOCs online, or physically (like in a convention)? Because I have some interests in selling some MOCs myself, but I haven't had any experience doing so and it would be really great if you could give some advice on it. Here are some questions that I have: .1) How do you calculate the pricing on your creations? Do you charge based on costs of parts, workmanship, and shipping charges? Do you also mark up some more after that? .2) Have you experienced any pitfalls or miscalculations that might result in a loss of profit? Do some of you sell, but not for the profit? .3) How do you order your parts to build the models? If it's from sites like Bricklink or Ebay, there is the added price of shipping. Does every charge for shipment add up to the MOC's price? - Or do you bulk buy LEGO kits and create MOCs from there. If so, how do you go about calculating the price of the MOC? I would be very grateful for your advice on this! Many thanks! -
After finally building a functional chassis for my MOC I'm ready to start on the exterior and interior detail. Since this is the first time I'm making a 1:8 sports car, I would really welcome some advice from the community. When looking at the chassis photos please note that the EV3 IR sensor will not sit on the large motor for the final product. My car MOC is a 1:8.3 scale replica of the Lexus LC500 in Porsche 911 GT3 RS orange. The most challenging parts for me will be replicating the body with panels (I never replicated the shape of a car for an MOC), as well as the headlights, taillights, center console, and an engine cover with details under the hood. I will also be putting a medium motor in the trunk to power the small retractable wing as seen on the Premium Package for the LC500. Chassis Pictures: Blueprints and exact measurements (in inches) for the MOC according to Sariel's model scaler: Thank you. -
Hi! I'm starting this topic to ask if anyone knows the best tools to cut through a lego part? Because I would like to cut the shoulder pad (rounded area on the pic) from a part from BrickWarriors because its on the wrong side and I found a better one for my custom minifig, but i'd like to simply keep the torso from that part but i do not know which tool to use. Thanks in advance to anyone who will reply!
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Sci-Fi Projects on LEGO Ideas - Discussion and Advice
Digger of Bricks posted a topic in LEGO Sci-Fi
Seen any great Sci-Fi themed LEGO Ideas projects from others that you would like to share or discuss? Do want any advice or ideas for a Sci-Fi themed project that you would like to submit? Talk about it all here, where any Ideas project that fits under the context of this subforum (from Steampunk to Cyberpunk to the final frontier and beyond) is game! Please, no self promotion of your own Ideas projects, only discussion of others submissions. -
This is my first WIP post on EuroBricks where I will show my progress on my newest build, an EV3-powered 1:8 replica of Lexus' newest flagship coupe, the LC500. The car will most likely be a combination of both the standard and the V6 hybrid LC, but it will have a V8. The body will also be orange. Here's a photo I found of an LC that looks a lot like the one I am shooting for. Features I'm planning to add: Four or six-speed paddle-shift transmission Retractable spoiler Detailed interior Fake V8 engine (but I would like to achieve moving pistons) Full independent suspension All I built so far was the rear axle for the LC. It's exactly like the one in the Porsche 911 GT3 RS set but more reinforced. I also made the V8 engine using Lego Digital Designer. I plan to build the paddle-shifting mechanism used in Didumos' Ultimately Playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS (the one with the tilted wheel) and pair it up with a gearbox. I currently am having trouble whether to motorize his gearbox with the EV3 motors or to pick a different one with less gears and friction. I also am having a little bit of trouble finding the right front axle, though I like the one that Didumos put his Porsche because of the fact that is has two shocks for each wheel. However, I find it very difficult to fit the V8 engine in the middle since the axle is made for a rear-engine car. Here's a poorly drawn render I made of what I'm trying to achieve with the front axle. And here's the chassis in the real LC and the measurements for the LC Lego model. Overall, I'm excited about the build. I would welcome some helpful comments about the V8 engine, axles, and the gearbox I planned to use before I order pieces on BL. Once I start working on the body and aesthetics, I would appreciate some input with that as well. I can also give you the download for the .lxf file of the engine if you'd like to check it out. I look forward to replying to your comments and sharing my progress. Thank you. -
Hello! So, I am starting to create a realistic LEGO City Layout, based off of metropolutan areas like New York City or Hong Kong. I want to have billboards in my city to add the feel of Corporate America and commercialism in my city (which are defining features of cities like NYC). I abhor stickers, because I would rather have a brick-built sign than a sticker (I reserve stickers for things you can't build, like a menu sign within a building). Any tips on making realistic brick-built billboards? I see all these cool images online, many of whom use SNOT, but I don't know how they specifically built it. I am quite new to MOC building in general, so I appreciate any and all help! Thanks
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Here is a quick summary of a previous post. Right now I'm planning on a new project and I could use some help. It's a 1:8 scale model of Lexus' LC coupe powered by Lego Mindstorms EV3. Currently, I have the rear axle built off the instructions from the Porsche 911 GT3 RS set. I also made the engine for the LC500 on Lego Digital Designer and I am wondering if it is good enough to buy the pieces for it on BrickLink. I also want to add the following features: Four or six-speed paddle-shift transmission Retractable spoiler Detailed interior Fake V8 engine (but I would like to achieve moving pistons) Full independent suspension I would welcome some helpful comments about the V8 engine, axles, and the gearbox I planned to use before I order pieces on BL. Thank you.
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Hello! I am currently trying to create a box-like build, where on all sides i want to mount building plates. The base is 16x16, as are those vertical mounted plates. What I figured out so far on how to mount them with minimal space, are those bricks with knobs on one side. I should probably mention that i am also limited by the availability of bricks to buy from the official LEGO shop (Austria, if you are wondering; might be relevant as brick availability differs between countries?) I am looking for suggestions if maybe there is a better way to do this. Requirements: - plates need to be mounted on all 4 sides of a cube - top side stays open - as low profile as possible - side-plates should sit as flush as possible with base/top - front of plates on the side should be fully visible, as there will be additional artwork built upon them Thank you for your feedback!
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Hey All - I'm new and there is probably a thread here somewhere that answers my questions, so I apologize in advance for asking before really looking. I started buying and building the 66051, 60052 and others with some vague idea that I'd find a spot in the house and set up a fun layout. As a young man in the 70's I got into slot cars and I think I had some idea of incorporating those track layout concepts with the Lego trains. I like spirals as a method of changing levels and I'd like three levels - I keep seeing these videos online of people making these really long layouts that run from room to room in a house. I am determined to take a trip to visit the grandkids and take enough track that we can do a full house layout - With that kind of goal in mind I started looking and just buying pieces of track they cost 1.25 and up. I was hoping there would be a way to buy it bulk and get a better price but so far I haven't seen anything that looks workable. I'm an old dude on a fixed income - where do those folks in the videos get all that track???? Garage sales and flea markets????? Any advice you can give would be warmly welcomed. If I'm way out of line thinking I could do this for a few hundred dollars I need to know. I have high hopes for my layout and hope to soon share a vid of it - Thanks in advance EZ
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I have never built an action figure with Lego before, but after tons of trial and error I'm happy how the legs came out so far. My only problem is I need to find a solution to keep the articulation the legs already have while adding the ability for the legs to rotate for even more dynamic poses. Photos from Studio are below, any advice would be very appreciated, I look forward to making many more figures in the future and I want the articulation to be accurate.
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I'm making a 10 studs wide Peterbilt Dump Truck for my Uncle and wanted the bonnet to open. However, I haven't been able to come up with a solution for how to make the hood open. This is where I want the bonnet when it is open... ...and here is where I want it to be when closed. Any building advice? Note that I want to be able to fit a detailed Cummins X15 engine under the hood so I don't want the bits and hinges that make the hood open to take up that much space. I can upload a Studio file of the entire truck's front end if you'd like. Thank you.
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Hello LEGO Action Figures community! I build 1/12 scale fully posable figures (like GoodSmile Figma or Kotobukiya figures) of anime characters and I was reevaluating my arm design. Here's how the arm design I've been using currently looks like, the one on the left I use for short-heighted characters and the one on the right I use for characters who are average-heighted: This design has been reliable for my first few figure creations, but I am facing two problems. One is that the short arm (left) is very crude and looks ugly. I think I made the arm too short, but there are of course, many characters that call for short arm length. I try my best to make my figures' arms as articulated as possible, but I would like to find a way to make arms, short and long, with the exact amount of articulation, but that are more realistic to actual human arms, which is really difficult to achieve in 1/12 scale. The second problem is that both arms do not have the articulation needed to spread their arms out like this: So I tried putting a clip on the end of the larger arm's elbow, connecting the rest of the arm but able to achieve the articulation I wanted, but now the upper arm above the elbow is fragile with the removal of a 1x2 plate to make room for the 1x1 bracket, and the elbow clip is only hanging on by a stud. Not exactly the solution I was hoping to achieve. Below is what the leg design looks like on my figures too. Only showing this because I was curious if the hip design (just a brick with the legs connected to it attached to the bottom of the body) could be improved to look less weird, unless you think it's not weird and fine the way it is. Is it possible for anyone to help me find the best design for 1/12 scale action figure arms (a 6-stud long design for short figures and a 7-stud long design for average-heighted figures) that look realistic and less blocky than my designs, but are also fully articulated like on a traditional 1/12 scale fully posable action figure? Like these arms, (figure by Moc_Lobster on Rebrickable) but without the use of ugly gray ball joint pieces and preferably more realistic.
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I have gone througth the tutorial and seen several very noce things. However, I'd like to know how this door can be articulated. I don't know the right part "handle" and on what thing it can go. Thanks
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Hello wonderful LEGO people, I'm a 20-year old student from the Netherlands and have been playing with LEGO for as long as I can remember. However, as I grew older, my interest grew less and less and the people I used to play and build with stopped doing so. The love still remained, and I still can't walk by a toy store without scanning for LEGO. However, when I moved into my own appartment, I took my collection with me (now also bolstered by one of my parent's old collections), and the spark of ignited again (somewhat). Lately, I've seen pictures of the Star Destroyer Tyrant, which sparked my inspiration like mad. The desire to pool my entire collection into one big build surfaced again, and I'm trying to get ideas for a space ship to build. However, looking at my OC's, I realized that I'm not a good enough builder to pull something off even remotely close (my latest cruiser fresh in mind, where I ran out of hull parts and inspiration half-way...). What I'm asking for mostly is advice on how to go forward. I really want to become a better builder, but seeing the progress I made over my youth doesn't bode well for any progress if I just keep stumbling on. What can I do to improve? Are there good articles to read? Video's to watch? Building exercises to do? Builds to study and draw inspiration from? (And is this even the right place to ask?) A note on my collection might also be appropriate: I've mostly collected medieval/fantasy themes and space/science-fiction themes, but also have a healthy amount of standard building bricks. Thank you for bearing through my ramblings and any advice you might be able to give! Arcturus24 -
Hi Everyone, I went to BRICK 2015 over the weekend and purchased a set I have been after for a long time, Toy Story: Woody's Roundup. Now i bought it mainly for the MF's but there a quite a few pieces missing, most of which I can easily replace. My problem is the SHERIFF sticker is missing, does anyone have any advice on how I could an acquire a new sticker, seeing as its an old set? Or should I just accept I wont be able to replace it? Thanks for any advice in advance!
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Hi all. I've just come across this wonderful model by someone called Michael gale. https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/michaelgale/15266799517/ (can't add a photo via mobile sorry). I've got lots of track from my younger days and seeing this I'm tempted to get back into trains. So where would I start? Where do I get the wheels and are there any instructions online for anything similar to get me started? I'd like to power it using the 'old' wheel unit (via the tender?). The ones from around the mid 90 ' s as that's what I have. On a budget so would prefer to use these new fangled infrared things if possible. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks ☺
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I'm looking for organizer cabinets to help store my collection, but so far all the cabinets I've found have drawers that are impractically small. My current storage solution consists of a number of plastic cabinets, but these are proving to be too small. The smaller size (with drawers 16,5 cm (6.5 inches) long* by 11,5 cm (4.5 inches) wide by 4 cm (1.6 inches) tall) is only practical for storing small translucent elements and minifigure parts, and my collection is, as I'm sorting it, proving to be too large even for that. The larger size (with drawers 23,5 cm (9.3 inches) long by 16,5 cm (6.5 inches) wide by 6 cm (2.4 inches) tall) is useful for most purposes, although some particularly common pieces, such as black plates (or minifigure torsos and legs) are threatening to overwhelm these too. At any rate, these drawers are apparently not being produced anymore, which leaves me in my current situation. I am trying to find cabinets with drawers larger than these, although if they are close to the size of the larger ones that would be useful too. If they have a few smaller drawers, that wouldn't really matter either. My current spaces for new cabinets have the following dimensions: 25 cm (9.8 inches) long by 60 cm (23.6 inches) wide and no height restriction 45 cm (17.7 inches) long by 140 cm (55.1 inches) wide by 160 cm (63 inches) tall. I am also looking into acquiring a display cabinet, which preferably would be hung from a wall and translucent on all sides. The space I have for that is 45 cm (17.7 inches) long by 90 cm (35.4 inches) wide by 100 cm (39.4 inches) tall. In trying to optimize the drawer space that I already have, I am trying to acquire small boxes to fit inside drawers that are 39 cm (15.4 inches) long, 35,5 cm (14 inches) wide and 21,5 cm (8.5 inches) tall. I've thought of using four smaller containers per drawer instead. Any suggestions are much appreciated. If you would like the dimensions in inches, I'll add them if you ask. *Here I'm using length as the dimension into which the drawers expand.
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Hi all, I've decided to enter the brick world of lego to "legolize" ((:) my ideas but i don't know where to begin. I mean what should I start with? An official lego set to get familiar with the structures, building techniques... or just "free" bricks to go with my own creations? could you also give me some model no.s of the sets you're going to recommend? i need names, it's hard to be a newcomer sometimes... thx every ne
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Does anyone have some good tips for making complex BIONICLE MOCs? I'm interested in entering the golden mask contest and I want to learn some better techniques than what I'm used to. Thanks!
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Hello I would like some advice on my layout to make it compact and use a fair amount of track. I have 160 tracks. A lot of it is 4.5 volt. The rest is power functions. 20 PF straights, 56 4.5 volt straights. 30 PF curves, 60 4.5. I have 2 switches of each type. Thx.
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Hi all, Trying to do something for work but my ideas haven't worked. Could anyone make the following logo for me out of lego (LDD) and let me know how. Requirements: Needs to be as small as possible (Fewest bricks). Best colour match as possible. All pieces must e available in pick a brick. If a deign is used I will of course credit the designer. Thanks!
