Boxerlego

Its not an atom. Think about it DRJB, I'm not at my computer all day long either but you could have one all day long. TV screen, something part of it. Certainly in a metaphysical sense.

Do you know what your looking at? Can you guess what this part is and also what it does? I give you one hint this hint might revel everything or it might reveal nothing depends on how you perceive things but here it is. There is at least a 100+ of them in front of you at any given time of the day.

Link to the thread I got some of the pictures from.

@Nalyd997: Its very Strong and its one stud thick. It uses will include everything that is LEGO. Think of it like a Super Bushing. @Bonox: Hopefully I can finish what I'm building SOON, I have my new project mostly completed on the LEGO parts just need a few more things and it will be done. I agree as a general building technique I wouldn't approve either. JB weld can get messy, The First one I made everything was going perfect with the first three bushings but things started to get messy when I added the final four bushings on. My mistake there but I ended up salvaging everything except the bushings. I use one of my favorite LEGO parts to be main part to make this. This Wheel Hub here. The inexpensive common bushing is what make this idea promising. I could have built this in LEGO but that means using rare and some what expensive hard to find parts that are prone to breaking because their half a stud thick and eventually be in the need of fixing in the end overall. So I decided to take things in this direction. Usually I'm puting JB a none LEGO object to bind with a LEGO part, First time ever I JB multiple LEGO Technic Bushings together like that.

Well It has been some time since I shared something on the forums. I've been pretty busy but I've still been building. Check out the LEGO part I had to Custom make for my next project.

Looking good! I recommend on keeping the small tubing for the role cage. Since it really isn't a brick

Hi! Looking good. Use the panel parts like how LEGO used the plates and then just replace the studded bricks with liftarms. I think the first picture of the remake is the best.

Wow, I don't know what to say other then everybody entries was amazing. Good luck everyone. 8: 10 1: 6 23: 4 9: 3 36 : 2 43: 1

Probably not. No. Even with out modification stacking brick on brick if not done with an attention to detail can still have its rough spots. I would haft to see it. The only place I see where your going is the hospital. Think about it, is the circular saw the way to go. There must be a safer alternative. Its not okay because the 1 x 2 plate is a very rare Technic piece. Yes its a sin that circular saw isn't LEGO.

I understand that you want to fix the part with no noticeable appearance with liquid super glue because it can seep in the cracks. My favorite epoxy to use is J-B weld. Now I never fixed these cracked LEGO parts with JB but I have fixed several things with it. (quick story) one of these things being a broken plastic caster wheel on a small movable night stand cabinet that was previously fixed with some kind of superglue, sure it was able to hold up the cabinet but that superglue didn't even hold the wheel together after when I pick It up and I set the cabinet down on the floor with all its weight on the broken wheel. I had no Idea the wheel was broken in the first place and now that the cabinet has been fix with JB weld I can sit on the cabinet; So yea I can certainly say that If you use JB to fix the cracked part It going to improve it strength. However the big difference behind J-B weld is it a tacky epoxy and you are not going to get that INVISIBLE finish fix on the part that you will with liquid super glue. JB weld works on the fact that if you cover more surface area the better the bond will hold the part together. Same here. Those old half bushings with the crown teeth are awesome parts. Tho I prefer the new half bushings for there designed purpose but those old ones were way ahead of its time.

Not to be negative but the thread title kinda of a misnomer. Instead of reading "Is LEGO dying?" the thread should be named "Is LEGO getting expensive?" Hi! Welcome to eurobricks ImSpanky. I never heard of that book berofe, Brick By Brick sounds like a interesting read. What is it mostly about dealing with LEGO?

I would say Technic sets became more complex as the parts in the set change from Studded to Studless. I grew up in this transition and Studless building techniques were more complex but at the same time less intricate towards the details you could have done with Studded building techniques. The awesome thing about Studded construction is that it is rigid while the awesome thing about Studless construction is that it is flexible. The two construction methods are polar opposites in the manner in how you advantageously build with them but Studless eventually took over as the main means of Technic construction and has ended up replacing the Studded construction . The Rigid and more intricate Studded construction seems like a thing of the past but I'm willing to bet that if the 8110, 42030 or 42039 was built with Studded construction methods as well those sets would be better then they are now in terms in the way there are built they way the function and the way it looks overall.

Very good explanation and examples too. It is interesting how the veyron was able to come out on top even though is hp per ton was not as much as the koenigsegg. I have no idea why but what was the key factor for the veyron to come out on top, was it be because of a smaller tire size or a better gear shift pattern or maybe the engine was running better that day. Yes that answered my questions but I got one more question. Would hp per ton be the best from of measurement on the LEGO level? I see what your saying, very interesting. I guess that being said the same should applied with LPE to PF motors as well.

Pneumatic's are strong. I don't even need to build an LPE to know this. But lets say that the LEGO DC motor is going to have a maximum of 600N/132lbs of force @12V, Would LPE be (A) stronger (B) roughly the same or © weaker. I made a video awhile back doing some Horse Power calculations on a couple of LEGO vacuum engines and the LEGO XL motor with my 18V drill motor. I don't know if the calculations are correct so if anyone can see if it is please be my guest. But this is dealing with the HP in engines. Hi, I have some questions. Everyone is free to answer them but this First question is for you Leo, How would you define properly? Can you provide in real life examples of Power to weight Ratios with Lego comparisons and then provide a intriguing analysis of it? Also what is the goal for doing this and what ways could you go about using this. Another Question here, did you do this yourself or is your work based on the information provided on Philo's 9V motor comparison? That sounds interesting. Do you have plans on putting up a digital version of your paper up on EB. Dragsters are a great Examples its just basically an one badass engine connected directly to the drive axle with a clutch break in between. Yea. I agree Captain, just because the Lego Supercar don't have a motor, theoretically you could still calculate the theoretical Horse Power of the little grey engine block.

Now this getting interesting. Why didn't you say so in the beginning. Axle breaking isn't really a problem, Twisting is. I don't think you will break an axle unless you experience some kind of shock loads. When the LEGO Axle has achieve a certain RPM Friction will be the problem that you will be encountering.

That motor is trashed. If its a commutator problem then there is nothing you can do to repair it.

For the most part I primarily use the mod term mostly because an Axle is modified or something along those lines. MOC and MOD were interchangeable for me so I called everything a MOC. But what if the original idea started out as a MOC and some where down the road you decided to start adding bricks from other creations. Take for example the 8446 MOC I made which originally started out as the beginning of the MOC Version 4 Monster truck because the chassis frame ending up begin the exact same dimension as the one on the 8446. Overall the entire creation could be consider a mash up of 9398 style of chassis with the 8446 style of body.

I always thought MOD = My Own Design. Now that is understood, Ask yourself this question, When does something stop begin a MOD and starts being a MOC.

The Differential Shim Idea came from me originally, While the shim idea ultimately came to me from working on real transmissions. I needed to come up with a way to shim the differential in order for my 18V motor to power the power puller wheels. I also implemented probably every kind of LEGO solutions to brace the differential and I still think the best thing to use for bracing the differential is using a shim.

Never seen it before. I have all the PF components and none of them has this Bump.

Exactly DrJB, the axle connector here can make any axle offset in multiples of 30 degrees. I made a Axle angle diagram displaying all the possible angles. Going back to my 6 cylinder engine I was able to achieve the 60 degree V-block angle by using this pattern. It also can achieve some unique gear distance but because of the nature of the design its not a exactly a solid frame construction when dealing with gear meshes. Considering both Technic Complexity and "Limited" parts selection Lego can certainly achieve way more stuff because of size. My Brick built V6 engine was able to use this Technic pattern as a frame because the size of my Brick engine is naturally able to align with it Technic construction. The bigger size open ups the parts to use versus when you building on a smaller level you become restricted to what you can build exactly. I always compare my Brick Engines to the Grey Technic Engines because that is exactly what I used as a base reference for their design construction. The way the Grey Technic engine was designed for the LEGO system it self became a system of its own because these vacuum engines would never really run that efficiently with out the grey engine crank shaft piece that connects with the pistons rods. The Axle part above in the diagram basically allows the main Axle structure to connected the optimally close together, buts its not of optimal design construction in regards to space; However, on the other hand its the most optimal thing to use in order to achieve any of the possible axle angel variations with the design. Enough about Engines for now. Lets talk about Transmissions. I recently saw a video by Crowkillers about the new changes for Lego transmissions. This is exactly on base with your topic when you consider the Technic complexity for building transmission before this new driving ring. Now there is a mechanism for you that is not more complex when built in Lego but I would say less complex for the simplicity at which Lego can achieve it.

Wow! Awesome crawler and video. The whole thing looks amazing. I was building a truck body just exactly like that in August (it was even red too) but I couldn't figure out how to build the A pillar an make it look natural with the thick liftarms so I stop there.

If the Propellers thrust can move the plane on the ground and achieve enough lift to fly above the ground for like ten seconds, I would certainly be proud of that just for the given size of the plane.

Thanks DrJB! Cheers, glad I can help make things clear. To keep the discussion going I want to this about this quote where you brought up another good point. Typically yes the axles are restricted those 90 degree increments (90, 180, 270, 360) but there is a way to shift the axle alignment to get the real life 120 degree by using this part and three 1x2 thin liftarm to basically make an axle connector with that desired offset. I did this for my where not only is the crank throws are 120° apart the V-angle on this engine is 60° and this setup is consider to be the most efficient style of the V6 engine. I consider my V6 my most complex engine in terms of what was accomplished with the cylinder bank angle and crankshaft. Usually if you building in the standard lego paradigm the V-angle on lego engines will be 90° but because the V6 was built was on the right scale it was possible to make it happen. Same thing applied to the V8 engine. The V8 engine when built bigger then its smaller Technic design can incorporate both crossplane and flatplane style crankshafts while little Technic one can only incorporate the flatplane. Just like engines, Transmission or gears in general will share that same common problem. 90° 120°