Boxerlego

Spiral bevel gears are real complex for lego to implement not only do they create a separation force that will pose as problem but there would also be need for two different differential designs due to the helical design. As for a Hypoid and Amboid style of differential gearing is possible when you do it with a offset of half a node. But when you offset the drive gear by one node up or down you will have an offset that is to much for the gear teeth to properly mesh together and work as desired and is the one I'm referring to in the my previous post above. The differential setup with half a stud offset I just made this morning and never tested for clarity

Hypoid differential gearing has nothing to do with the style of gear teeth mesh. Hypoid just describes the position of the drive shaft gear to the differential ring gear. The lego differential can use the hypoid gear offset and it is strong in one direction but slips in the other. It just happen to be that spiral bevel gears are the preferred style on the real component for several specific reasons, the one I was taught in school is that to increase surface area on the gear teeth so that more torque can be transmitted on the gear with out breaking. The helical style of gear mesh is to complex for Lego to endure because unlike spur type gears, helical gear create a separation force that can create more friction wear on the lego parts if not prevent and and is regarded as the main disadvantage for such type of gears in the wiki article.

+1 for 9v motors thread! Its a great idea, glad to help make you point clear for everyone. a little confusing at first but now I understand where your getting at

In the wiki for JB weld it says it can stick to ABS but its really made for steel. If you can deal with the cure time 4-6 hous and the surface preparations JB works really great. Tho molding for pneumatic parts, I cant say If it will work out good, depends on what you molding I would say.

Well the grasshopper was the only RC I ever had. For me it had awesome performance because I have nothing else. Seeing today RCs no wonder you say it does not have awesome performance I know what a fiat 500 is. Its the car that monster truck drives over. I'm kidding there It comes from Italy and is the economical choice. right? Yes I understand your comparison and I agree with it. I just wanted to share with you and everyone my reasons and comparison and why I used the monster truck for my disambiguation. Very well put. My sentiments are the same with this post. Even for the power in the Lego motors can reveals problems but remember that there're always solutions. I too wish that they have a come back to the 9v system in a particularly ways for the PF system, Yea the wires are rubbish but the style of brick connections are not. I wish that they would bring back those connections the new style I have some that are either way to hard to take apart or doesn't snap together and comes easily apart. I remember blakbird talking about saving space on the PF wire connection to the motors because the wire leading to the motors two of them are actually needed. I don't like the wires coming out of motor this limits length. I would perefer having a variable select able lengths of wire connection that can go in between the receiver and motor, so you never having to either dealing with too much wire or too less. Returning back to the 9v system on how the motors connected up with the wire that would be something worth returning back too. What do you think 9v system. Agree or Disagree

Yea, what Im trying to convey in that quote is that If you can work in the 9v PF system limitation you still can work with any voltage you desire regarding the receiver specifically. Motors on the other hand is a different matter and where you need the proper motor for the desired application and you said it when you mention that the proper 12v train motor was able to last longer the the PF did. I suspect that the 12v train motor has carbon brush to enable the train handle the constan I know the commutator on the XL motor is of a cat whisker style and I see reason here why it didn't last as long as a carbon brush would as the train motors. I have a maintenance manual for Diesel electric train motor and generator that is from 1948 and goes in depth on the maintenance of carbon brush designed motors. I like this post. I've owned a RC buggy the legendary 1984 grasshopper. Sadly I don't have it anymore but the performance in that was awesome. From my experience in using 18v motors in driving lego the wear and tear on can be ridiculous in areas, I've actually friction welded a lego axle to another lego part (think god both parts was black) because the torque and friction was huge. I had to literately break the axle out of the friction weld and it did leave it marks, there is no picture of the part the axle was stuck in but I have one of the axle it happen to. Click to enlarge image. can you spot the axle in the picture. Its an americano thing. A V8 engines is like a blank canvas and some of the most incredible vehicles ever to be made around this engine and also be able to demonstrate the raw power of this engine are called monster trucks. Monster trucks are heavily modified truck so it only far to say that a true LEGO monster truck must be of the same modified nature. Can you understand this 1974. My reasons to improve the performance of the was to drive to those power puller tires. But in reality my intentions is to learn and how to drive large size motors because I need to know how this works because its going to impact the we drive when hybrid transmission are a common component and motor drive systems are able to kick in and run the vehicle with the engine. I hope this helps.

Gears don't want to work like this when being heavy is involved. Its better to use a bigger and stronger motor that is geared down to produce the required torque to drive the heavy designs. Once in motion this is where transmissions come in to play in where you can put that heavy weight and momentum in to action and be able to reach speeds that you couldn't if you were to go from a dead start because the design is to heavy to start in that high gear selection.

Warning this is going to be vague, but the PF system can easily work with voltages above 9 volts, I've already proven this in several ways already. I dont recommend connecting voltage exceeding more the 9 volts to the PF receiver that will certainly destroy but there are methods to work around this and work with any amount of voltage you desire. The PF system is ripe for improvements. Nothing wrong with IR communication, in fact LEGO is doing them the best longterm favor for by using the IR tech with their PF system for future use if you want to build bigger and larger. I'm just going to say that Sbrick is a great right now option if you want a good experience with your RC models but the PF system will be a the main stay for a long time to come. Sorry 9v system those days are over, Welcome to 2014 about to be 2015 in 37-38 days depending on what time zone your in.

Here is the pneumatic engine plane Im talking about, I had three of them one broke. It is capable of flying over 100 feet and can fly high. Watch this Youtube video and imagine if it was made of LEGO bricks. Now think about this if the brick plane crash landed in the street or on a major road would you want the kids going in the street picking up the remains of what is left of the flying brick LEGO plane. That is just one scenario that could happen. That is why LEGO plane must be made of the highest quality to stand up to the rough impact landings so your not left searching for little parts scatted around on the ground where ever that maybe, could be on a roof it is a plane after all. Some pictures of the box. Click on picture to enlarge.

Its awesome to see the build up on the lego plane at best will be a good model of one but I don't understand. Why not build a more practical design instead of one that seems it will fall apart mid flight. I can make a LEGO flying plane right now but it wont be 100% LEGO nor will it have a radio control flight but it will with out doubt its going to Fly because its all ready proven to fly. When I get around to it I will post some pictures of my Pneumatic Engine Planes.

Nothing new for me. Technical names for this differential setup are hypoid gearing and amboid gearing.

I have a pile of snow chains out side, they hook to the wheel hubs and latch together, both Lego concepts look good but It don't have that net/mesh style chain link as the ones I have. Other then that looks awesome! Now you just need to improve on it before the snow melts.

Nice work on the large exosuit. The video was awesome! Its very interesting that it pivots on its foot and is also able to rotate. Very dynamic walker design.

That with out doubt makes a great transmissions part that wont allow the gear pairs to separate under torque. I used a variant of that part with the 36t gear to do this in the extreme cruiser.

Its tempting to get one but I'm working/modding of off the PF system. Right now I'm building on another motor control circuit that works with every version of the IR receiver. My goal on this is to make it more compact and work with a range of voltages from 12 to 18. Awhile ago I connected the 555 timer to the Lego servo to test the idea out and the PWM from the 555 time moved the servo, it wasn't perfect. I'm amazed.

Thanks AndyCW that is awesome! Its great to read that the servo working on good a supply of 12V. That also sounds promising. Now I'm understanding whats going on with the servo motor and the TRexDMC. Looking back at on the walk through that z3_2drive made for this the tricky part is what confused me because the servo end is connected to the motor driver side and that right there is what confused me. I understand how a motor driver works but It just didn't make any sense to me how the Lego sevo motor was able to function with out having to program it. Now I'm understanding it out by reading this note here and I got to say Wow that is awesome. Note: The TReX does not require use of the serial interface to function; it will work right out of the box as an electronic speed control (ESC). You will not have access to the full suite of features the TReX provides if you do not make use of the serial interface, though That sounds awesome right there that it will work right out of the box even with the LEGO servo. It makes tons of sense now that the Lego Servo would be able to work like this because that is how it works when connected up to the Lego receiver. So that is why nothing needs programming here for the servo work. It is outstanding that the PF servo is able to function with 12 volts but it might be to much voltage for PF servo to be able to handle the max 16 volts the TReXDMC is able to function with. Only if there was some technical information on the servo towards how much voltage it can handle.

I have a question about the servo, is it working with 5v or can that be adjusted to 9v? I looked at the specs of the DMC, It describes a min and max logic voltage. Is that controlling the LEGO servo? Minimum logic voltage: 2.7 V Maximum logic voltage: 5.5 V

Wow! The red hot rod with the V8 engine looks awesome. That V8 engine does look good in this picture. Cant wait to see it motorized. The new 4 speed transmission sounds very interesting. ONE BY ONE....

WOW! First that was a great video and great music too, I'm impressed with this RC conversion the Rock Crawler performed well. Tho what gets me is the LEGO servo motor, did you have to program the motor driver or was is already functional just by connecting the servo up right of the bat.? I understand you don't want to make instructions but I'm just confused about what going on with the servo motor. You could get probably 10-20 extra watts or more just by adding a heat sink on top of the driver. The 3d printed portal hubs and heavy duty U-joints designed by Efferman's work out great even as you went down the concrete steps, that certainly tested the custom parts out, if something were to break it would have been there. Good luck with V2 looking forward for it! If there was another rendition of the RC Buggy motors and RC system. That would be awesome. Maybe a 12v system?

Now make a egg beater to perfectly beat the egg whites.

Amazing how many unique gears and differentials have been created. I want to focus on the with the clutch for a moment, I would like to see a mechanism behind this to shift it with. To me It would appear that the 36t gear might be to big to be of standard shifting to use in a non sequential Lego transmission. Now I don't see this as a problem but really a challenge to make the gear and clutch work together in a compact fashion.

Thanks VK, There're more improvements down the road not as small as the ones above are. I got a lot in store for this awesome buggy.

This post it to show some of the improvements I've made to the buggy. The picture below I put a liftarm in to connect the two hard shocks together to strengthen the axle setup. Here are a series of pictures that show the improvements I made to the steering rack and pinon gear. The pictures below show how I swap out the 3L thin liftarm with a 5L thin liftarm to help keep the gear rack straight when turning. Here I added a 3L thin lifarm in between the pinion gear and steering u joint. Doing this helps in removing any excess free play with in the gear and the u-joint. Providing more structural strength for the steering shaft. Picture below show the suspension improvement to keep the shock from bottoming out and preventing the chassis bottom from scraping against the ground.

Wow, that is a clever fix. It would be nice to use that 5x4 gear connection with the idler gear, Tho its one stud bigger and one stud wider then what I need to fit in proportions with the buggy. That is very Interesting, Tho I wouldn't recommend using that half bevel gear mesh in situations like that because the teeth pitch alignment is way off If you want to exert maximum torque on the gears and pull that car like ZBLJ did.

In order to go up to 12V you could use a 12v AA battery case like the one in the picture. Tho I don't recommend going above 10.5 volt on the PF receiver, it could potentially break with the excessive voltage. Other then that If your powering the motor on the table then the 12v could be from a bench power supply or a transformer.