Boxerlego

Yes seriously. I just went to Rebrickable and saw what your talking about. Thank you for the hint, I had no idea that there was a website that will let you compare two LEGO Set. http://rebrickable.com/compare/42041-1/8041 according to rebrickable there is 3% difference between the two.

Looks awesome! Where have I seen this before?

So its like what the title says, what is the difference between the old and the new Race Truck. The only thing different I see is the tires and some stickers. What new parts does the race truck come with? New 42041 Race Truck Old 8041 Race Truck

Now that I got the drill back together I've been doing some torque test with the axle threaded in the drill and see if I can engage the spring slip clutch on the drill. Not even on the lowest setting the drill still twist the axle to extreme limits. Turns out that the threading the axle in the drill is not really perfect after running it with the drill. I can see slight wobble with the axle and that is not good and this is due to the axle small thickness not begin the appropriate size as the screw ho after later examinations this is really due to the fact that the drill is cheap and the screw hole is not exactly centered that well...

Right now I don't know what to do next with the 18v drill conversion other then put the drill back together and find a 18V motor that has a O shaft instead of a D shaft. I want to use the 18v battery but as is stand now the motor with planetary is just way to big. I already have one 18V motor motor fitted with LEGO as it stands but some wire upgrading is in order for it to function with the 18V battery so it doesn't get hot.

Sounds awesome.

One thing I see this about Is how far you can push LEGO to make yourself money. Selling another person models might seem wrong morally but if you look through it with rose colored glasses like if this guy/gal that is selling lives on another hemisphere of the planet count yourself lucky that he trying to expand your model in an area that your not at and this give the buyer the opportunity to go out and do some searching and who knows maybe the buyer buys the model from the original maker and doing so you get some kind of show card from the model that he/she wouldn't have received with the other seller and that SWEET! Basically what I am getting at even tho your see someone else sell your model that doesn't necessarily means he/she selling "your model".

That is a good example. There was some reasons for this why I didn't claim to be the inventor of this 18V setup, don't get me wrong I'm the progenitor of it on the level. While the dual PF battery connection was something totally new at getting 18v with LEGO but how this works was already a well known fact portrayed in mathematics with the voltage difference equations Vab = Vb - va. Method #2 is a series battery connection and is the simplest battery connection to understand and most well known at getting 18 volts. School taught this one to me however if you applied this electrical understanding you to would think that there is no way for the LEGO to handle that amount of voltage because it is designed for 9 volts. Right? Its only till you understand method #1 will you understand how to take advantage of this 9 volts to make this dual 18v battery connection to work. But here is the deal the Theory of electrons supports method #2 more as the reality about how electricity should function and if this was true then the 18v battery connection should destroy the negative end of the PF IR receiver due to the excessive voltage. Right?

That was a great and long awaited video. Nice work on solving the air problems. Everything seems like there getting good air pressure by the way it moves. The pneumatic functions really makes this X-wing more amazing then it would be without pneumatics.

That is going to be tough to say. Right now the quick and easy way to attached the drill with LEGO is by threading an Axle into the revers threads. This works and centers the axle perfectly with out the need for JB but this will make the motor very large to mount with LEGO longer than a 1x15 Technic beam. Close up of the threads on the axle. This axle was destine for this to happen because it was already twisted.

Look, What if you did something electrically with LEGO that everyone in the LEGO community thought could never work they way it did. I didn't see the community flock around the idea that it remotely "belongs" to me or something like that along those lines. Do you know how much research work I put in to that 18v LEGO electrical connection. It wasn't something I built a week ago when I brought it to the forms in December 2012, however because it look so easy to build people assume that it took it like that like I made it a week ago. I put alot of work in that connection I piratically made that connection as a way to power my 18v Drill motor but it failed miserably at doing so, so I didn't use it and keep it in a closed box for a couple of months then finally showing everyone at the end of the year in 2012 and along with being a sort of introduction for me for the forms to boot. Off the bat already I was feeling left out as to what I built. I know what is up on the forms, People feelings are either good or bad based on how they feel about you and where you come from.

The trucks look great! Excellent work on them. You did a good job.

The Planetary Gearbox Here is an inside look at some of the Planetary gearbox. Little like LEGO planetary gearbox except that all the gears are Metal here. The big difference is that with the LEGO one, the planetary ring gear is directly connected with the motor so the motor has one constant power output, however with the Drill planetary ring gear, it is held down by friction created by an adjustable spring clutch pack. Removing the Spring clutch pack from the drill will remove all power flow out from the motor drive shaft and the ring gear will now need to be held in place by some other means. Here is the pinion gear for the motor. Interesting thing to make note of is the motor shaft, it is in the shape of a D instead of an O. This D shape increases the difficulty in perfectly fixing an axle connector to its motor shaft. If the motor shaft was an O shape this would have been an quick and easy conversion with the axle connector if the shaft was the right diameter. Looks like i have no choice with this one I'm going down the second route this one Now the main problem is figuring out how to connect this planetary gearbox precisely up with Lego.

Thanks for that bit of knowledge. Your right about that alkaline batteries not being as strong. I have already experience that in my own way but I never really concluded it to the alkaline batteries but more to the inefficiency of the motor driver circuit I built. You can see I used alkaline batteries in my video with my monster truck. Well I would check the voltage in those batteries along with the voltage begin supplied to the motor by the motor driver and there was about 3-5 volts of voltage loss between the two and that is not good but it was good enough for me at the time. This missing volts was the real driving force that forced me to figure out how to make the motor driver more efficient. The Dismantlement I have dismantle the drill to see if the motor is able to be fitted with LEGO. The dismantling was very easy with this drill. Below is a picture of the battery plugs and variable speed trigger. I'm going to keep everything on this drill to see if I can potentially use down the road with the Motor conversion in some way. I certainly need to keep the battery plug but the variable speed trigger will be a tough one to figure out in a RC setup. Here is a side by side picture of both my 18v Drill motors. Both motors are practically identical which is awesome because that means this motor LEGO conversion will work. Sweet! Now I have two routes I can try going at building this motor. I have already been down one which is a direct axle connection with motor drive shaft with a axle connector on my first drill motor. The second route is keeping the planetary gear box that is with the drill and some how use that in conjunction with the build as well. I have know idea if the is even possible, However, 900 rpm sounds great but here is the deal doing this will make the motor longer then a 1x15 Technic beam. With the previous drill motor I used a 1x11 Technic beam for the motor.

Thanks, I have high hopes for this motor project. There was a previous drill motor that was given to me but that motor was a little to big to fit in between the 1x7 liftarm spacing which the XL motor is design to fit in between. That motor was huge but that motor was an somewhat expensive 1/2 drill. I'm hoping here that this 3/8 drill motor is small enough to work out how my first drill motor did. Thanks, The easiest way to increase voltage is to add another battery pack in series. Doing this can increase voltage up to 14-18 volts but this depend on how strong the batteries are. I made a thread about this battery connection ( http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=77490 )

18 Volt Drill Master LEGO conversion [WIP] BY Boxerlego Introduction Hi, This is my latest LEGO custom motor project but its not the only one I'm working on I just bought this 18v drill today for the intention of modifying it for LEGO use. My previous drill motor project I only modify an old 18V drill motor to fit with LEGO but this time around I've a new 18V drill motor with a fresh 18 volt battery pack and I'm going to try to fit with LEGO. The nice thing about this is I got that power drill with an 18v battery pack along with charger for a great deal of $16, the original sale price was $35. My first 18v drill motor project had tons of problems to over come and for a long time at first the motor was not even able to be power with LEGO 9V PF system. This was a major problem for me and ultimately I didn't quite know enough on how to drive a DC motors with electronics. So I moved on to my next motor project which was a stepper motor and was more efficient that it could be driven with the LEGO V1 PF system. This was a good step up but it wasn't quite as powerful as the drill motor can be. It didn't take long for me to figure out how to drive a motor with electronics, there are lots of good YouTube videos out there that got me started but ultimately how to properly drive this 18v drill motor with LEGO was still far from perfect. My first motor driver had several mistakes however LEGO was able to still make it work but still those problems needed to be understood and corrected so I can make improvements and make it work better. I will spare all the details here and I will just say that in 2014 I learned tons about how to properly drive motors and more efficiently. Which brings me to my other motor project the upgraded XL motor I'm working on, which is reaching the final stages and that is building the motor driver. This motor driver here for the XL motor MOD is absolutely the best one I made yet. You wont believe what I was able to with this motor driver or maybe you will . I will just say that this motor driver here I made works from the regular 7-9 volts the LEGO Battery box can supply but however the XL motor mod has a switching DC power supply that can step up the 7-9 volts from the battery box to 12 volts for this XL motor mod to work off of. Overall this topic will mainly be about the 18v drill motor LEGO conversion so to start it off I want to show a video time line of some my previous projects with my first drill motor. Video Time Line Think this is either going to work or not please feel free to comment on the matter. I hope everything works out well

That is good suggestion with the paint brush .

Have you tried using a spray bottle of some soap and water in finding those hidden air leak? Where there are bubbles there is an air leak.

This might seem like a nice idea at first to the person with tons of LEGO but for the person that owns all that LEGO its not worth it in the long term. You will just find yourself loosing LEGO parts left and right and recovering any lose is going to take time and money and think about that shipping that is what going to cut into the profits the most. This idea would probably be better if you were to able to build what ever you want and not solely MOC creations that happen to be built by other people that offer instructions themselves. Renting out LEGO can certainly be a good idea but not like this. +1 I agree with aol000xw. What makes MOCs different here?

While most people dont see it changing anytime soon I see it changing today. I don't think the targeted age of whom which LEGO is sold to has anything to as to why Technic sets have rack and pinion steering.

Yea that is something you got to make sure and check as you build it. Many things could be happening here causing your bind I cant tell you exactly what but at least give us an idea so we can have a fix to the problem.

I'm going to focus more on these steering parts here. For all practical reasons the rack and pinion certainly has the advantages over other steering solutions but this shouldn't keep back other methods of steering systems that Techinc Models can poses like the pitman arm and drag link steering, there models after all and furthermost this will expand the assortment of Technic links parts.

WHOA that is huge. Excellent work on the massive Technic X wing even tho if the pneumatics are out of order at the moment. I would solve the leaking air problem One question, Does the X-wing pivot on the stand?

Today I figure this group of unique connections out with the metal bearing and rod. The bearing hole here is the same size as the hole on the end of portal hub. This could be the solution I've been looking for to connect the LEGO axle with the Bearing hole It fits like a charm.

@ 9V system Yes rockbrick is right That was supposed to be a hydraulic steering system. Not pneumatic. I even got a pump that fits perfect with the LEGO pneumatic nipples. That is a great statement D3K. I was looking for someone to point that out about simplicity over the other steering system. More and more Technic models are increasing in size but the simplicity in certain areas like steering has held these great models from begin even better. The Unimog is a good example for this. I guess we will haft to wait see about Arocs featuring a different steering system but that is not going to hold me back form saying this. Models based around the Unimog and Arocs are the definition of what need to happen for the steering. Rack and pinon steering is not how the Unimog and Arocs handle turning their wheels in real life but that is the problem here. For LEGO to replicate this kind of steering I think would be quite the endeavor and probably would never happen to the full extent that how it is mechanically working in real life because of the size difference but overall how it functions is more the capable of begin built in LEGO with out resorting to a different means steering.