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Tamas Juhasz

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Everything posted by Tamas Juhasz

  1. Tamas Juhasz
    I present my latest crawler: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=545871 It's main concept is similar to my previous crawlers: nothing unnecessary part and weigth, as simple and reliable technik, as it can be. The chassis is enoug flexible to do this: http://www.brickshel...Crawler/021.jpg - so you don't need more advanced suspension in this concept. Two XL motor drive, one M motor steers the vehicle. For power supply there is one LiPo battery and a V2 receiver built in. The front part is heavier, thanks to the small wheels in the front rims and the ship weight. The chain holds the weight in position. This crawler also has the usual rock crusher tires, in my case, from RC4WD. The body is partly from the 8437 official model: http://www.bricklink...em.asp?S=8437-1 http://www.brickshel...Crawler/001.jpg I lookde around my room in the beggining of body building time, and the 8437's body in my showcase just gave himself to connect with the chassis. I wanted to make a tubular body/frame. Has a fake L6 motor in the back too: As video, there is the first part (from 00:40 to 20:55) of this video: (720p) This was an RC track test, for more information see this topic: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=97879 I made it in LDD, this is the instruction: http://www.brickshel...crawler-no4.lxf Feel free to ask or comment.
  2. Tamas Juhasz
    Ok, clear. I can imagine that in the future a mini set will be released with pneumatics. Why not? Ok, would be expensive compared to the parts count, but would be worth buying also because of the pneumatic parts.
  3. Tamas Juhasz
    Ok, so this means, the most complex function should be a worm gear/8t gear drive or a pullback motor? It's also okay, then I will make an entry with attention to this. Maybe I misunderstood the rules. So we shouldn't put any function in that wasn't ever in official mini sets, like actuators, driving rings, gearboxes, etc.? If we make a more complex model, that's at a disadvantage?
  4. Tamas Juhasz
    8040 - 162 parts: http://www.bricklink...em.asp?S=8040-1 Or 8044 - 198 parts: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?S=8044-1 In a technic competition, where the main rule is, you can build anything from max. 200 parts, why should be pneumatic (which is one of the main systems/technical features in technic) disallowed? You don't like pneumatics? Why can't be in a mini set? Anyway, real mini sets are significantly less than 200 parts, and the rule says 200. Maybe we see this contest too much from the viewpoint of the official sets. Yes, exactly.
  5. Tamas Juhasz
    Thanks for the answer. I'll use official lengths, in the meantime I realised, that there are a large selection of official lengths: http://www.bricklink...P&catString=530 So I think every entry can be made only with official lengths. I will cut my tubes precisely to the bricklink's lengths, because I don't have all of them. So you can cut your tubes, if you have an 50L one, and you need two 19L, then you can cut. It's equal with that if you have two original 19L tubes. IMHO. Or you can make eight 4L tubes from a 32L one. There are many official lengths. I understand other's viewpoint about it, and for me it's okay, when each tube counts as one part, according to the current technic sets.
  6. Tamas Juhasz
    Good idea. But the number of the set is 8852: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?S=8852-1
  7. Tamas Juhasz
    A pneumatic question: The tubes are counted separately, or they count as one piece, and you cut it to pieces? Older sets in BL have one or two very long pneu tubes, newer ones have cutted tubes. In a mini pneumatic set, the tubes have significant parts count, compared to 200.
  8. Tamas Juhasz
    Thx! Zblj: a hood would cover the engine and other technical features. Most of supercars have only a few liftarms or technic bricks as "hood". More pictures: In this picture can be seen the rear drive pulley, a rubber band will be here. The 4L tan axle is perfect for connecting the two CV joint parts: Here you can see the front suspension and it's geometry: I made a render with the technical parts: Click for high resoultion: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Supercar/bs03.png What do you think?
  9. Tamas Juhasz
    V2 with improvements in the steering mechanism (this is more rigid and works better) and body connection: The steering ratio has changed from 2:1 to 1,666:1.
  10. Tamas Juhasz
    Hi all! This is my first idea/entry for the mini contest. It's a supercar with the color variation of classic technic sets. First I make it in LDD to see the parts count, now it's exactly 200. Two 1x4 red plate is missing from the LDD model, they connect the 11 and 15 L liftarms. They will also give the rigidity of the body. I tried to put in all of the regular supercar functions: - independent suspension (front&rear) - steering with working steering wheel - two speed gearbox - rear wheel drive - V6 fake engine There are some more little features. The front suspension's bottom swingarm is longer than the upper one, this means more reality in the front axle. The gearbox is linear, the two dkblgray pulleys are responsible for extension in the drive line. They look like clutch plates in real cars. The suspension works with original Lego rubber bands. It's nearly finished, but maybe some improvements (like instrument panel decal) will be done in the next weeks: More pictures, video, part list is coming soon.
  11. Tamas Juhasz
    You should call the costumer service, they will send a new one to replace the wrong devices. I get more than one PF thing during the last few years this way, I had also some problem with some component (AAA battery box, PF switch). I also made video(s) to proove my problems, but they didn't requested them.
  12. Tamas Juhasz
    My controller's left additional lever doesn't worked, it was some contact failure. I took it apart, and I put some material under the critical point, so it works again. Sometimes the old rc system can get wrong, it's not so reliable. It depends a lot on usage. How much was your rc controller used?
  13. Tamas Juhasz
    It's quite easy to do. You have no driving in this axle, no extra thing. So you have place for getting closer at least two studs the steering rack to the wheels. The 7L Lightbluishgray liftarms is unnecessary. It's pretty hard to write how to do it better, but I can't make a picture only for this. One thing is certain: with those functions, you can make the tie rods with much smaller angle and the gear rack closer to the center of the axle. One modification is doable right now: you can switch the 7L gear rack and the 3L perpendicular connectors. They should be inversely placed, the gear rack can be more further than those 3L pieces, because they have the connection points to the rods. The gear rack can be even "20 studs" away from the axle, the placing of the connection points are important only.Of course, the length of the tie rods are important for the correct wheel angle, try to experiment with connector pieces to the gear rack to get the correct setup. The white 24t gear is also unnecessary (directly connected to the steering axle). It helps to increase the play in the steering system. You should place it after the M motor's 8t gear.
  14. Tamas Juhasz
    Fantastic work on this model, I really like the built in mechanisms. One question: As we know, the hardest part in a non two-positioned (or bistable) gearbox, to know, currently which gear/function is working from the four. So how can you turn exactly that aomunt with the M motor, to place the driving ring (red) in the clutch gear of the actual function well? Can it be that the driving ring goes in to the 16t clutch gear with 50% overlap? Do you use a sequencer with some rubber load to position the crankshaft pieces in the needed place for actual function? You have to turn for each function exactly 90 degrees. It looks like a regular PF M motor. There is no place for NXT motors.
  15. Tamas Juhasz
    Velcome! Very interesting moc, congratulation. I've never seen something like this before.
  16. Tamas Juhasz
    Once I built a similar motor in a Lego moc, and the holes of the axles, and the axles too, were melted after a while because of the high rpm and load. So the loaded parts will be melted, if it runs enough long. Nowadays, I got some ball bearings, and when I will use again a strong/high rpm non Lego motor, the bearings will have the load. If you need, I can show some pictures about the placing of the bearings in the Lego structure.
  17. Tamas Juhasz
    @Roineust: I will write a private message soon, because it's off in this moc topic. (it's about Zblj's construction) Edit1: You have so less posts that the messaging system isn't works to you (yet). So if you write an email adress, I can say more.
  18. Tamas Juhasz
    12 PSI is nothing. It's about 0,83 bar. So the little small pump (compressor) from the 8110 is far enough. This can be used until about 4 bars (atm). You can use Zblj's idea. (or mine: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6003101 - but it's not the best topic for this question, because it's a moc topic, and I don't want to advertise here other constructions)
  19. Tamas Juhasz
    Sorry for off, but if you use non Lego bettaries and receiver, etc., then why don't you use a custom servo too? Is the Lego PF servo motor cheaper for this application, than RC ones? If you use an RC system, you could use non Lego motors (also servo) with much bigger performance. --> more fun.
  20. Tamas Juhasz
    I understand your viewpoints, maybe there is a better topic to discuss about Lego or non Lego moc. The only thing I tried to explain: if you use some non-Lego parts in a moc (except few exceptions), then it's not a Lego moc, it's a hybrid. So simple. The ONLY problem is, I think, when something contains non Lego parts (exceptions are ok), and it's considered as a Lego moc. I hope nobody of you think, it's equal, when two cars have the same performance, but one is full Lego, the other not. Technic moc-ing will always have the real challenge to make your goal with the existing Lego parts. Imho thinking outside of the box isn't means the using of non Lego elements, it means the using of Lego parts in clever way. With non Lego parts everything can be solved easily (if you have skill in the non Lego theme, like RC technic). I didn't wrote legal, I wrote "legal". Sorry for off, I just had to clear the situation.
  21. Tamas Juhasz
    Cool project, very impressive. I'm curious for the test flight. But something has to be cleared: I see, nowadays there are even less purist mocers, and this isn't good imho. A few years ago, when somebody used something non-Lego part in a moc, then most of the community didn't considered that as a Lego moc. Nowadays "every second moc" (note the "" signs) has non Lego parts. The whole technic moc building is turning slowly to a mixture of RC and Lego constructions. Years ago, the challange was, to make all with only Lego parts. This plane should be presented in the RC world, or here, as hybrid Lego construction. This is very far from flying Lego plane with tons of non Lego components. So we can't call it as a "flying Lego plane". Please. I'm still with the opinion, only custom rubber bands (round shaped is better), strings and pneumatic hoses are "legal", which are non Lego parts. Because they mostly substitute the expensive original Lego ones (custom RC wheels are also ok, they appeared because of necessity). I don't want to be against anything, we just have to clarify, this plane isn't a Lego moc, it's an RC moc.
  22. Tamas Juhasz
    Ok, I also thought about that, but I have no old red u-joint. And without that it has no sense to test.
  23. Tamas Juhasz
    I have a pretty specific problem: there is a 1 stud wide channel/place, where 1 stud wide u-joint is needed to transfer relatively high torque in a moc. Because the space is 1 stud wide, I can't use strong, custom built U-joints. I thought about the old red one, I heard it's stronger than the others. So my question: is the old red U-joint ( http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=9244a ) stronger than the new 3L one? If so, "how many times" is it stronger? I know it's hard to tell, but maybe someone has torque information. I don't think they are so much stronger than new 3L joints. Other thing: Is there any method to make stronger the 4 or 3L U-joints without increasing their width? (of course without custom metal parts, etc.) Custom rubber band or string is ok. Thanks in advance.
  24. Tamas Juhasz
    I thought about nearly "perfect" flat place (+/- 1°), of course, there is no really perfect. "if there even would be a slight slope, you have to overcome static friction...." Overcoming static friction isn't all, if there is a few degree uphill, you will never pull up the car. There is a force component which points opposite to the Lego vehicle's direction, that comes from the car's own weight. This component can be count with m*g*(sin x), where x is the slope's degree. With 1° of slope and 1000 kg car: 171 N force against your pulling vehicle only from the car weight and slope. You can't even start moving the real car. With counting only with the slope (so zero rolling resistance), the theoretical maximum you can fight against with your 4 kg Lego car: 0,22°. (0,5 % slope)
  25. Tamas Juhasz
    @Blakbird: "the rolling resistance needs to be overcome, but this can be done with minimal pressure of one hand." --> it's only true, when the gorund is 100% flat. If there is even a small slope (up), then it's nearly impossible to pull up the car with a small vehicle. So you have to find a perfectly flat place (or a little slope down). Anyway you are right, a minimal force is enough. It helps a lot, if your tyre pressure is as high, as it should be. Johnny P also wrote some good thoughts, slope is a keyword here. I can say to everybody, Zblj's videos about car pulling aren't fake. We had some conversations about in pm. He has no reason to create fake videos. It's hard to believe, I know, because we never seen this before. But as some members said before, it needs "nearly 0" force to pull a car, if you tyres are ok, and if you find a FLAT surface.
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