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Tamas Juhasz

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Everything posted by Tamas Juhasz

  1. Tamas Juhasz
    I redesigned a bit the Jagdtiger and the color scheme is new (every color exists): Old one: Instructions for the new: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/417792
  2. Tamas Juhasz
    Thank you. I sent the requested LDD files in email. Anyway, for most of my tanks the LDD file (as BI) can be downloaded from my mocpages: http://www.mocpages....lder.php/192586 go to the requested tank, you wrote the Panzer III: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/415512 then go to the bottom of the description to " Download building instructions (LEGO Digital Designer) " Panzer IV's LDD file is now also uploaded to mocpages. Thanks for suggestions. VK 4501 will coming soon, it's done. Panther is in progress, I experimenting with colors and side shapes. Churchill will coming later, it's among my plans. British Sherman: I have some Sherman variant plans, but the problem is, MII Sherman aren't different enough compared to usual M4A1 to be worth to make. M3A1 Stuart and similars: there is a big problem with very small tanks, like they. If they are proportional, their details are so small that they barely looking different from each other. The unique details in turret can't be made because of it's very small size, etc. I also thought about making a Stuart, but because I have a nearly finished M2A4, which looks very similar, probably I won't make a Stuart too. People might not think that small tanks (in 3 and 4 wide) are the hardest to make. I put together all of my Panzer III variants:
  3. Tamas Juhasz
    Thank you. What other types would you like to see here? Including my ww1 tanks, I plan to make this series up to 100 tanks.
  4. Tamas Juhasz
    Thanks. Here is the Maus instructions (LDD file): www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Tanks/PanzerVIII-Maus/zpanzerviii-maus.lxf There are parts in the floor beside the tank, those are for the left side of the turret, LDD doesn't allows to place them because of a very little gap. The end of tracks are hold together with strings or rubber bands, you need to do it. All four, two in left and two in right side. The fuel barrel in the back is "hold" in place by gravity in the slopes.
  5. Tamas Juhasz
    Ok, thanks guys, I'll think about it. Yes, 20000 parts are very much, I read all of the polygon and parts limit topics here. Basically, I'd be happy with "only" 10000 parts too, about one time in every five year I need this amount, but if so, then really.
  6. Tamas Juhasz
    Now I tested with a half technic / half studded moc with 4000 parts, and LDD consumed 1150 MB of RAM, of course lagged. So if: Then it would be much better, if it could use 3 GB for LDD process. I don't run other programs beside LDD, only folders, and the maximum RAM, it can reach is about the mentioned 1100-1300 MB. So if I understand well, LDD can use even 3 GB RAM? If yes, a 32 bit system with 4 GB RAM can't deliver this 3GB amount, but I think, a 64 bit system with 8 or more GB RAM can easily. My only goal is, to run smoothly LDD with maximum 20000 parts, and they can be all technic parts. I think for this, you can recommend a specific system requirement.
  7. Tamas Juhasz
    Thanks, Ok, But Gnac wrote, his LDD became way faster when he put plus 4 GB RAM into the laptop. Is there only 32 bit versions of LDD? If yes, I even don't try to install a 64 bit windows, I would do it just for LDD. (I have now a usual 32 bit windows 7 ultimate)
  8. Tamas Juhasz
    Thanks, I'll upgrade my RAM.
  9. Tamas Juhasz
    Hello! I found the minimum system requirements of LDD, but I didn't find the recommended requirements. Is there any information about recommended RAM, processor, video card, if I want to run LDD smoothly (without lag) with large (over 5000 parts) models? I always want to see the outlines of bricks, but no advanced shading. My specification, with this, models with more than about 1500 parts start lagging: i3-2120 processor 4 GB RAM GeForce 8600 GT graphic card with 512 MB video ram My other question is, what's the most important for LDD? Processor? RAM? Thanks in advance!
  10. Tamas Juhasz
    Thanks guys. @Block_Smarts Lego Technic: yes, RC motors have more power ( torque [Nm] * angular velocity [rad/s] ) than PF motors. Basically, with no gearing the stronger output has about 12 Ncm max (stalled) torque. If you try, you should use the RC unit, PF LiPo and AAA BB can't deliver the needed current for maximum power.
  11. Tamas Juhasz
    I forgot to answer. So the situation is the following: when we have Truck Trial races in hungary, sometimes time matters, the faster wins. To compensate the motor's power compared to each other, whe have motor/weight ratios for every drive motor. XL usually has 750 g, which means, if you use two XLs, your truck needs to be minimum 1500 g. RC buggy motors usually have 900-1000 gramms. So this truck, if I want to be legal in competition, has to be minimum 1800 g, maximum 2000. If the lower limit will be in the rules, I take off weight, if the upper, I add a little more (now it's 1940 g). So it's good for any ratio and any kind of rules. We sometimes regulate the width, usually between 25-30 studs. It's 28 studs wide. I designed it specially to be acceptable for nearly all kind of TT competition rules (only the "one-motored" and "only-PF" rules can make it illegal).
  12. Tamas Juhasz
    PP tire is very good at it's own. They are heavy, move down the centre of gravity, looks good for monster trucks and for any big and wide wheeled vehicle. Using larger than 108 mm tires (PP is also 108), leads often to the damage of drive train, extreme loads and stress can appear. Of course, not in mud, slippy, or flat terrain, rather in heavy conditions, like rock crawling or in truck trial stages. So both the Lego wheels and RC wheels have advantages. Imho the RC tyres we use are for replacing the 94,3 and 94,8 mm Lego tyres, not the PP. But back to the topic, please don't make off like these. Yesterday I finished the LDD file. Does someone needs an instruction? I have a new, quick method for making quality stop-motion instructions in LDD. I can adjust logically the building steps, which is really missing from the LDD automatic instruction generator.
  13. Tamas Juhasz
    @TheLegoExpert: no gearbox built in, doesn't need it. RC system provide the speed and torque too. Ok.. so I thought about the modification, and I could make an improved version, in which the long cross beam disappeared, and the whole width of the axle got 1 stud higher ground clearance: One strong 3x3 dkBLgray plate holds the thin liftarms together (these connections are stronger than pin connections): And the whole bottom: Thanks for the idea, I wouldn't improve it by myself. It's as strong, as the old version. Interesting that I never used any of those 5x3 thin liftarms, this is the first time I use them, after 10 years of making mocs.
  14. Tamas Juhasz
    We have a usual team with about 6 constantly partcipating member. Four of them have RC system, and if necessary, we can loan motors and RC units to each other, who have more. That's why we could make a TT race only with RC, but it never happened, as you wrote, people want to use the PF, and in some design, only PF system is allowable. I totally understand you with the small bunch of TT drivers. In Hungary, mostly I'm the organizer and the most participated in TT races, and nowadays we are happy, if we have 6 competitor each race. Every of us got job, finished university, got much less time to build and particpate in TT competitions. But we have at least one bigger TT race each year, soon I'll create a topic for hungarian TT events. Thanks. Yes, SBrick uses better also the original Lipo battery, and some builders use custom LiPos (and imho it makes a moc an RC/Lego hybrid creation). Can you send me here or in pm, which truck is in the quoted part? I haven't found. One more thing: Trophy truck have good climbing ability with help of their speed, that matters a lot. Trial trucks have nearly no speed compared to them. And.. custom LiPos: they provide much more power than PF LiPo, and some of them even more, than Lego RC unit. So with them, with non-Lego rx, it's easy to reach that power/weight ratio. Soon we need two separate categories for mocs: mocs with only original Lego parts, and mocs with significant custom modifications. With Lego, you can't compete with them. People are wonder about their performance, and the title says, it's Lego, but the most important part isn't Lego. So there is no wonder in performance of these mocs (I accept custom tyres, that's all). IMHO. Back to the theme, I just want to say, you can't compare a moc with custom battery and RX, with a moc which has original Lego RC system. Thanks, I tried to improve the cabin and side parts a bit.
  15. Tamas Juhasz
    @MaxSupercars: Ok. No problem too : ) There is 18:1 gearing. The 24:12 gearing before U-joints doubles the 9:1. One unwritten rule is the following: if the whicle has some weight (so not a crawler), the minimum reduction with 108 mm wheel and RC motors powered from RC unit is 15:1. In general, It SEEMS to be, it has enough power with less than 15:1 gearing, but once if you try to climb hill backwards, and there is some grass, RC motors became stucked. I have real RC technic, and believe me, Lego RC motors are very very weak. They just seems to be strong, because PF motors are even weaker. But back to the theme: This truck has 1,1 km/h speed, which I think is enough. I thought about 15:1 reduction, but as I wrote, in same cases wouldn't enough. Imagine: there is more than 1 kg on the front. It's a lot in terrain, but it has climbing advantage, and it's a truck, needs a "heavy" body in the front. The crawlers you mentioned, like Panther are in other category. They are way more lighter, and have 50-50 % weight distribution. The relationship between power and weight is not linear in this scale (Panther has 400 g axle load --> in a truck with 1,2 kg axle load and 3 times more power than Panther wouldn't be 9:1 gearing enough). That's why you can't compare. I built this truck with 15:1 gearing and PP wheel, and it was the motor's limit: --> it was 4 kg, 4 RC motors, 2 RC Units.5:1 gearing in this Gaz truck would make absolutely no sense. Would be very, very weak. Even with 9:1 gearing. With 15:1, or with the fastest output would be good, but not better. (I use fresh, new, quality batteries, only 3 gearing to be effective, connected motors, so the performance depends on RC system). No problem. Yes, we allow custom tyres, and other small usual custom things (rope, covering material in the back, O-rings, rubber bands). I think, SBrick is at least as custom, as custom tyres, maybe you should legalize them in races (we allowed SBrick too, however, I never would use it). PF system really sucks in outdoor conditions, as you know. Why do you only use PF? Sun could make the control really annoying. Old Lego RC system is better in this case, but has it's disadvantages, too, but for me, for this truck is perfect, makes the frame more rigid, and increases the control range.After a bit of thinking, I realized, this truck will be good for any types of TT races: 1. failure point matters: good because it's climbing, stability, precise control options 2. time matters: pretty fast, way faster than 5:1 geared XL driven vehicles. If there is a weight/motor ratio, can be easily done, since it's nearly two kg heavy, won't be too light. I can even decrease the weight with the mentioned ballast, if rules allows. I'm sure, it will be a participant in future Hungarian TT competitions.
  16. Tamas Juhasz
    Thanks guys. As I wrote in the video, 1934 g. Of course it wouldn't be this good with Lego tyres, it's a fact for every Lego trial truck, that's why many of us use customs. But with PP wheel, I think it could do nearly the same. Weight would be increased, but there is some reserve in the motors, AND I can decrease it's weight with the ballast: side tanks and a Lego ship weight in the rear axle are built in specially for ballast. But why would I use PP wheel, when it's made for custom wheels? Many technic mocs have nowadays custom tyres. And yes, as you wrote, weight distribution helps a lot, it has about 57 - 43 % (front - rear).
  17. Tamas Juhasz
    If you build a trial truck, you will see, there is many (more) important things beside 1 stud more ground clearance under axles. Rigidness of the axle, keeping wheels strongly in position, prevent wheels to slide off from axle, etc. The portal hub of the 8110 and 9398 makes these also possible, but they are used first of all to decrease the stress, the load of the universal joints in front axle. Every other thing is far secondary. In case of these large wheels, without portal reduction the load would be way higher in U-joints, than they can handle. In solid axles, even with portal hubs the ground clearance is maximum as high, as the center of the wheel (except special constructions): https://www.flickr.c...tream/lightbox/ http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5018201 http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=4974606 Anyway, good observation, I'll think about it, but because of the 24 and 36t gears, I see little chance to move higher the connector beam.
  18. Tamas Juhasz
    Hello! After a while, I'll post mocs again, and for starting, I choosed one of my latest creations, a Gaz 66 trial truck. This is my third Gaz66 Lego trial truck, now with 108 mm RC4WD custom tyres, as many technic vehicle has. Equipped with two RC buggy motors for propulsion and one PF M motor for steerig, built in the front axle. The two RC motors are linked together with a central axle, however, they are located separately near to the front and rear axle. With this technique, they can help each other to move this truck over obstacles. I tried to get close to original Gaz66 with the body, but angles and others, like ground clearance were also important. It can be precisely driven, thanks to the RC throttle with 3 levels and linked pendular suspension. This was made first of all for a Lego truck trial competition, organized by HUNLTC in Hungary: Gaz66-024 Gaz66-023 Gaz66-022 Gaz66-021 Gaz66-020 Gaz66-019 Gaz66-018 The RC unit is also part of the frame: Gaz66-016 Gaz66-015 Details: Gaz66-013 Gaz66-012 Gaz66-010 The power transmitter axle between the two motors: Gaz66-011 Gaz66-009 Gaz66-008 Gaz66-007 Gaz66-006 Yes, some scratches appeared after a long run on rocks and others, but I don't care, it's an outdoor built moc. These angles can be done by suspension: Gaz66-005 ... and steering: Gaz66-004 Gaz66-003 Top view: Gaz66-002 Nowadays I have a new semi-pro camera, so from now, you can watch 1080p good quality videos, in my new creations. (but for old mocs, which are waiting for publicizing, I still only have the 480p videos). The slow motion parts were filmed with 1080p60fps and 320x240 at 240fps. Video:
  19. Tamas Juhasz
    16. Karl Gerät 040 (Karl mortar) Big picture: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6260823 Information: http://en.wikipedia....wiki/Karl-Gerät It was a german ww2 heavy mortar (60 cm caliber), only the weight of ammunition was 2 tons. To show this, I choosed the biggest possible Lego piece in this size for the barrel, the 2x2 dkBLgray Lego barrel. You can put the blue ammunitions into it. The original has some fences and bars in the sides, but this size doesn't allows to make them correctly, so I ignored them in my model. Until now, this has the longest track. The rollers are flat silver in reality, pov-ray makes them dkBLgray. It wasn't hard to build, because it's big, although the gun section is tricky, and it's only 5 studs wide without the side tiles. 17. Munitionspanzer IV Big picture: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6260827 Information: http://www.wehrmacht...nspanzer-iv.htm It was a regular panzer 4 chassis with a crane and a munitionscontainer built in. It was necessarry to operate the Karl mortar, the ammunition was very heavy. I also built it on the chassis of my panzer IV. The crane was quite easy, but the container's proportions have some compromisses, the original is very low. You can store the ammunitions in this panzer, maximum 3 of them. Together with Karl: Big picture: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6260829
  20. Tamas Juhasz
    7. Medium Mark A Whippet British ww1 breakthrough tank for supporting infantry. It was the first "one-man" tank, only one person was sufficient to operate and control the tank. Big picture: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=6260820 It's long, but overall small, so the rear part was made with relatively lot of compromisses. The original has a complex shape here, but other details are very characteristic, like the "hood" and the down-sloped track part.
  21. Tamas Juhasz
    Thanks for the picture, even I haven't built yet, some more bricks are needed. I forgot to say that the four 4 studs long black bars in the floor of the LDD model are for the suspension. The 3L flex hoses are only there to show the placing of these bars/hoses. The 4L bars are good for the inner wheels.
  22. Tamas Juhasz
    Thx! I redesigned the Tiger, this is the instructions for the new one (Tiger I late): www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Tanks/Tiger-1/tiger-i-bi.lxf Do you need the desert and early variations too?
  23. Tamas Juhasz
    This will be a bit longer post with more pictures. First of all, a new tank, the 43M Zrínyi II assault gun: 15. 43M Zrínyi II assult gun Big picture: http://www.brickshel.../43mzrinyi2.png Information: http://en.wikipedia....wiki/43M_Zrínyi It was a hungarian design and manufacture. Equipped with a 105 mm howitzer, was quite succesful type. Only one survived the war, now it's in the museum of Kubinka. I always wanted to build something from my country, and this is enough wide to build. Others (Toldi, etc.) are too narrow and small. It's very low profiled, because of this, I couldn't make a characteristic top part, but it's accurate. The whole upper part has a slope backwards. I made a group image about the publicized ones: Bigger resolution: http://www.brickshel...together002.png (4k) You should watch this big picture, because there is many details on it. Half studs differences can be found in proportions, but I think the differences in sizes can be clearly seen. Another group image with "specific" figures, built from stereotypes : It's also recommended to see thi big resolution: http://www.brickshel...together001.png As can be seen, I redesigned the Panzer III and it's variants. The old one was too high, I found it unaccurate. These are the new versions: Panzer III Big picture: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6252970 For the first time, I made a picture to show the inner parts, you can see every detail inside: Big picture: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6252973 This image contains one structural unit or part more than once, as building steps in instructions. The main body can be seen in exploded view, this holds together the other parts. The turret is attached with a small 3 mm D rigid flex hose (not shown in the pictur) to the 1x2 jumper plate. Stug III Big picture: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6252975 StuIG 33B Big picture: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6252977
  24. Tamas Juhasz
    Thank you! Jagdtiger is among my favourites as well, if not the favourite. I built a few in reality, Sturmtiger looks good in dkBlgray. Sherman was one of the hardest. It's not so big, but rounded, and Lego system really lacks of rounded parts, like 2x2 rounded corner (sphere * 0,125), 1x2 rounded plate, etc.
  25. Tamas Juhasz
    So the Ferdinand: 14. Ferdinand (Panzerjäger Tiger(P)) It was a German heavy tank destroyer in the late of WW2: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elefant Interesting that the chassis of the Porsche designed Tiger (Pz VI) was used for this. Big picture: http://www.brickshel...d/ferdinand.png Building: since it's a large tank, it was quite easy. The turret was the hardest parts, because it's angled and have a flat furface, so the little slopes required a proper in-line fitting, to make a bigger, angled, homogen surface in sides. The inside of the turret is full with snot. Chassis is pretty rigid with the tracks. The angled plate in the rear is very rare in tan color, but at least, it exists, as every other part in the picture. For Fuppylodders's request, here is the LDD file, you can use as instructions: www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Tanks/Ferdinand/ldd-ferdinand.lxf
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