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Tamas Juhasz

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  1. Tamas Juhasz
    Ok, here is the lxf file with building instructions for the Tiger I: www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Tanks/Tiger-1/mini-tigeri-building-instructions.lxf Only one important note is necessary: cut the rigid flex hoses to the size, which is needed for holding the overlapped wheels. Maybe there are original sized hoses in Bricklink, which fit to these places. In LDD, all wheel-holder "3 mm D rigid hoses" are placed symmetrical between right and left side. All parts in LDD exist in the same color in reality. If you finished with building, I'd appreciate a few photos about it.
  2. Tamas Juhasz
    Thanks! Instructions/LDD file: if you or anyone else would like to build them, send me here or in PM the list, which tanks is interesting for you, and I'll upload the LDD file as instructions. Sometimes additional explanation is necessary, like the length of rigid flex hoses (in LDD there isn't so large selection of them) or fixing the track with strings. In some cases stickers are necessary.
  3. Tamas Juhasz
    Thanks guys. @LOTRfan: Panzer IV is in progress, coming soon. @anakin066: Every tank is possible, the only question is, how many and what kind of compromise is necessary in the building. Anyway, an M4A1 Sherman is also in progress, almost done. If someone needs instructions about any of them, let me know here or in PM (basically I don't upload LDD file, just a rendered picture).
  4. Tamas Juhasz
    Panzer 3 and it's variants: 8. Panzerkampfwagen III German standard battle tank, used widely during WW2. Info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panzer_III Big picture: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=6165764 I think these car rims look very similar to the original one in Pz3. Even the center looks authentic, like Lego would made this exactly for this usage. It has characteristic tracks and wheel sizes, I tried to catch them. 9. Stug III Tank destroyer based on the Panzer III chassis. Info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sturmgesch%C3%BCtz_III Big picture: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=6165769 Essentially it's a little modification of my panzer 3. The only challenge was, how to place the gun to to be low. 10. StuIG 33B Also a tank destroyer on Pz3 chassis, but much bigger, with much more firepower than Stug 3. Info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sturm-Infanteriegesch%C3%BCtz_33B Big picture: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=6165771 It was a more challanging build, tank destroyers with angled side armor and big upper part are always more challanging than they seems to be at first look. The picture tells a lot. I used the "big gun" (technic pin connector), it's 150 mm, like the Maus has. If the original has bigger than 120 mm, I use this part as main gun. A bit big, but somehow I have to differentiate the guns. (standard 75-90 mm gun is the 3 mm flex hose) Should I change something on them? What do you think? I'm courios about your opinion. If anything isn't clear (e.g. how are they assembled), feel free to ask.
  5. Tamas Juhasz
    Maybe you misunderstood me. Creating backround and lighting is ok in reality, but not with softwares. I understand under background creating for example a big paper sheet, to get homogene background. Lighting: with lamps, with settings in your camera, etc. What I mean, is a non after-edited picture, and captions are exceptions. In the mini contest were some example of more or less manipulated photos: http://s8.postimg.or...ni_Contest2.jpg http://abload.de/img...hkopiekoe2b.jpg https://farm6.static...7bc2e51b5_b.jpg https://farm3.static...2c7f36878_b.jpg BUT: I also like the idea "Enhancing yes, morphing no". I just made a suggestion, to concentrate more on non-edited pictures, and I'm happy that you appreciate it. To answer the question: yes, we should allowe an image like the mini supercar has. Last but not least, thanks for organizing this great contest.
  6. Tamas Juhasz
    I totally agree with Appie: "I don't see why a result in LEGO BUILDING contest should be influenced by my photoshop skills. That's a Lego+photoshop contest, not just a Lego contest." A suggestion: all photos in the entry topic should be real life photos with no manipulating. This would make the contest more fair. You can search for good backround, or make it, use your photo skills. You can combine with lighting, etc, but edited pictures isn't fair imho. Captions/subtiltles are ok.
  7. Tamas Juhasz
    Thx. I was a bit surprised that there was no Lego K-wagen before my build (I didn't find any with google pics and brickshelf). Maybe the reason is, it's not so popular/famous, but I like the shape and it's idea in WW1. --> must build If you have any suggestions to make it better, let me know.
  8. Tamas Juhasz
    4. K-Wagen WW1 German super heavy tank prototype. It was almost finished until the end of the war. The germans partly copied the british tanks, here, most of the weapons are in sponsons. Info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K-Wagen It's a big one with lot of details, so I made two pictures: Big: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=6165760 Big: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=6165762 Overall it was a challenging build, a lot of work. The middle part was easy, only the track position was tricky, I think it looks good when the first and last track part is positioned/held by strings, pressed between the gray bricks. The shape of sponsons gave me a lot of thinking, in this size they have special stud dimensions, angles. I tried to catch the rounded and angled shape of the original sponsons. (The top of them can be covered with dark bluish gray stickers to have no gaps between them and the body.) Hope you like it.
  9. Tamas Juhasz
    7. Panzerkampfwagen VIII - Maus German super heavy tank, two prototypes were finished, one was destroyed. Had two guns, a large 150, and a standard 75 mm. Weights 188 metric tons. Info: http://en.wikipedia....anzer_VIII_Maus Big picture: http://www.brickshel...erviii-maus.png It was pretty hard to build, despite it's relatively simple form. The front part is the most tricky with the track covering. The fuel tanks in the back are made from technic pistons, a standard 2 stud long black technic pin can be put into two of them, it holds them together. This unit is held by the cheese slopes. I put one more piston in this picture: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6165768
  10. Tamas Juhasz
    Thanks, good to see you like them. Soon a Panzer VIII Maus will come.
  11. Tamas Juhasz
    Thanks all. New tanks: 5. King Tiger (or Tiger II, Panzer VI ausf. B, Königstiger): Heavy tank, used mostly in the end of ww2. Info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiger_II Big picture: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Tanks/King-Tiger/king-tiger.png Has 9 (as the original) overlapped rollers, angled front and back, angled side armor. It's a tricky build because of the lot of angles, but it's size helps to hide the connector bricks. Contains 227 parts. 6. Jagdtiger: German heavy tank destroyer, built in the Tiger II chassis. Was unreliable, but had insane firepower with the 128 mm gun. "It was the heaviest armored fighting vehicle used operationally during World War II and is the heaviest tank ever to achieve series production." --> : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jagdtiger Big picture: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Tanks/Jagdtiger/jagdtiger.png Built on the King Tiger's undercarriage, with little modification in the front. I added a gun holder. The parts count is the same as the King Tiger, 227. I was happy because I could use the 51739 wedge plate ( http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=51739 ), with that the front of the turret is close to the original.
  12. Tamas Juhasz
    Thanks all. 3. A7V: First german tank in combat, famous in ww1 theme. It was quite unsuccesful, but became on of my favourites in ww1. Easy to recognize from it's angular shape. Info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A7V Big picture: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Tanks/A7V/a7v.png It was easy to build until the front part, there 3 plates connect to each other in the original, gave me a lot of thinking. Fortunately, it's longitudinally symmetric, copying parts worked.
  13. Tamas Juhasz
    Thanks. Yes, I know, it will be public after one or two days.
  14. Tamas Juhasz
    Hi all! I'm mostly a technic moc builder, and during the last few years, I didn't post about anything except technik, but now I'd like to present my mini tanks and self propelled guns. The theme is the second world war, except a few, there will be posted mocs only about real tanks. Prototypes, which were built in relality (but never seen combat), also can be found here. My concept: all tanks and SP guns are built in more or less microfig scale, my reference is the Tiger1 german tank, it's 6 studs wide, so 6 stud is 3,7 meter. So 1 meter is eqaul to 1,62 studs. The width is determinative, the smallest tanks are 3 studs wide, the small ones are 3-4, the mediums are 4-5. The heavy and super heavy tanks have 6 or 7+ width. All mocs in this topic are built only digital so far, but I'm planning to make them in reality, too, as my financial status and time allows. All tanks were made in LDD, and rendered with Pov-ray. I will update this topic frequently, as a new tank is done. Sooner or later I'll post also real pictures beside renders. Some tanks requires special stickers and thchniques (like covering a part to be in the requested color, or connect the tracks with strings), I will write that in these cases. I tried to use only real colored parts (except few cases, where they are covered with stickers). I tried to catch the characteristics of tanks, instead of being 100% proportional, but I tried to make them as proportional, as possible in this size. Sometimes there aren't a lot of possibilities to make proportional, for example: the tank should be 4,5 studs wide. Width can only be a round number, so a tank which should be 4,5 w, is disproportionate already. Main folder of all tanks: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=548239 I render one picture about one tank, if you want to see more, ask for it, I can make more in LDD, or render about the requested part/viewpoint. There will be a lot of mocs, so I also opened a topic for WW1 tanks, see here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=100890 The tanks: 1. Tiger 1 (Panzer VI): This was the first one in my series, it's my favourite german tank, and porbably the most famous of all tanks. Info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiger_I Big picture: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Tanks/Tiger-1/panzervi.png This version is the latest, I made a lot of modification about it to reach this form. This moc is the size reference to all other, so I tried to do my best. The real Tiger1 is immensely wide (even wider than the Panzer VIII Maus, which is three times heavier!), and surprisingly tall, so it's a relatively big one in this serie. It's suspension conatins two rows of rollers, each roller is a 1x1 round plate. Pov-ray don't know "peral dark gray" and "flat silver" colors, this is the reason they are dark bluish gray. 2. Sturmtiger (Sturmpanzer VI): It's a heavy SP gun based on Tiger1, with an insanely big, 380 mm naval rocket launcher. Since I had the Tiger1 base, I had to make it also. Info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sturmtiger Big picture: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Tanks/Sturmtiger/sturmtiger.png The 2x2 holed round tile is one of the few exceptions of real colored part, I'm planning to cover it with tan colored stickers. 3. T-34: Soviet medium tank, one of the most succesfuls in the ww2. Very iconic and famous, it shouldn't be missing from here. Big picture: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Tanks/T-34/t-34-85.png The big rollers are very characteristic, and they have a specific look, a bit similar to car rims. So I decided to connet some Lego rims to 3 mm rigid hoses (tight hoses hold the wheels enough "strongly", but, yes, a bit weak connection). This roller part and the holders were very difficult to make, consumed about 80 % of the construction time. 4. Panzer 38t: German (originally Czech construction) light tank, was very succesful. Info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panzer_38%28t%29 Big picture: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Tanks/Panzer-38t/panzer38t.png Nothing special here. This is a small tank, so it was harder to make proportional (should be 3,5 s wide). I'm planning to make all significant ww2 tanks/sp guns, like panther, the whole panzer series, king tiger, t-35, kv-2, Karl Mörser, T28/T95, sherman, jagdpanzers, ... etc. to be continued...
  15. Tamas Juhasz
    Hi all! I'm mostly a technic moc builder, and during the last few years, I didn't post about anything except technik, but now I'd like to present my mini tanks and self propelled guns. The theme is the first world war, except a few, there will be posted mocs only about real tanks. Prototypes, which were built in relality (but never seen combat), also can be found here. My concept: all tanks (no SP guns, because there was one-two prototypes only) are built in more or less microfig scale, my reference is the Tiger1 german tank, it's 6 studs wide, so 6 stud is 3,7 meter. So 1 meter is eqaul to 1,62 studs. The width is determinative, the smallest tanks are 3 studs wide, the small ones are 3-4, the mediums are 4-5. The heavy and super heavy tanks have 6 or 7+ width. All mocs in this topic are built only digital so far, but I'm planning to make them in reality, too, as my financial status and time allows. All tanks were made in LDD, and rendered with Pov-ray. I will update this topic frequently, as a new tank is done. Sooner or later I'll post also real pictures beside renders. Some tanks requires special stickers and thchniques (like covering a part to be in the requested color, or connect the tracks with strings), I will write that in these cases. I tried to use only real colored parts (except few cases, where they are covered with stickers). I tried to catch the characteristics of tanks, instead of being 100% proportional, but I tried to make them as proportional, as possible in this size. Sometimes there aren't a lot of possibilities to make proportional, for example: the tank should be 4,5 studs wide. Width can only be a round number, so a tank which should be 4,5 w, is disproportionate already. Main folder of all tanks: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=548239 I render one picture about one tank, if you want to see more, ask for it, I can make more in LDD, or render about the requested part/viewpoint. There will be a lot of mocs, so I also opened a topic for WW2 tanks, see here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=100891 The tanks: 1. Renualt Ft-17: French light tank, mother of all modern tanks, the first one with 360° rotatable turret. Was quite fast and effective. Info: http://en.wikipedia....wiki/Renault_FT Big picture: http://www.brickshel...nualt_ft-17.png It's a typical 3 studs wide very little tank, but thanks to it's individual shape, can be recognize easily. 2. Mark IV (male version): The first british tank in combat, very iconic and famous. Had no suspension and was pretty big with more than one guns. Info: http://en.wikipedia....ki/Mark_IV_tank Big picture: http://www.brickshel...-IV/mark-iv.png The front shape around the tracks is very special, angled and rounded, I think brick technique is better here than plates. There isn't a lot of variations from hoses, the big cannons standard 3mm wide (like in most of my tanks), the smaller machine guns are screw drivers. I'm planning to make all significant ww1 tanks, like K-wagen, Tsar tank, A7V, Gun carrier Mark 1, Whippet, Saint Chamond, etc... to be continued...
  16. Tamas Juhasz
    There is the same situation with mine, too. If I plug in, the red led starts immediately blinking, and after some time, it lights constantly red. I was thought about the different types of chargers cause this, I charge mine with a custom (not the official Lego one) charger, which has the same specification, as the offical. Anyway, after charging, the performance is better, so even the blinking and constant light "are reversed", the charging is successful. So can it be that the sequence of led activity is different in some 8878 battery? Who has 100% true information about this, share with us.
  17. Tamas Juhasz
    Thanks all for the kind words, good to see you like it. I really like yours too, there are so many good ideas. Erik Leppen: it has a bit different mechanism than 8868 B, which uses gravity to switch the main valve. This submarine uses only a sequencer for this. But you are right, the gripper and arm raising has the same working method (less and more resistance). In the beginning I also thought about using only one valve, but it does not works. This arm has so less weight that it can't switch the valve during the "fall". And you are right, with the release point of the barrel.
  18. Tamas Juhasz
    Thx! Yes, it's more a submersible, but people know better the "submarine" word, and they are also often called as submarine. I call it mini submarine.
  19. Tamas Juhasz
    40. Submarine Entry name: Mini submarine Part count: 200 Short summary of the functions: - Pneumatically operated arm and gripper (automatic circuit with sequencer) - Openable half sphere window - Openable back door - Manual propeller drive - Adjustable rudder Promotional image: Parts: For more information see this TOPIC. LDD file: www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Submarine/mini-submarine-ldd-instructions.lxf
  20. Tamas Juhasz
    Hello! Finally my entry is done: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=546318 It's a pneumatic submarine. I wanted to make something similar to the 8868 B model (which is the best B of all time imho), but 200 parts aren't much for that. So I decided to make a pneumatic sequencer base, which allows an automatic function circuit. Working method: two pneumatic cylinder are connected to the other's valve, they control each other. The big cylinder controls the two small. : Promo pictures: So the main function is the pneumatic arm, other smaller ones are described in this picture. Video is available below. Made with 200 parts: Other pictures: Thanks to the outer shell with the yellow panels, the submarine is pretty rigid: Control panel in the cockpit: The inner structure with all pneumatic parts: Video: link: I know, there isn't much time left to the end of the contest, but in the last few weeks I was very busy. Fell free to ask or comment, I'm courious about your opinion. .LXF file for instructions: www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Submarine/mini-submarine-ldd-instructions.lxf .
  21. Tamas Juhasz
    Good to hear you like it. Yes, I (we) know the SBrick since about May 2014, I saw the prototype during the RC track test, the Sbrick developer team also participated. There are 3 pictures about it here: https://www.dropbox....palya-teszt.rar --> IMG_3321 to IMG_3323I can only repeat the comments in the Sbrick topic, it's the next level in Lego Technic remote controlling. But you need some high performance custom batteries too, because the Lego LiPo can only transmit about 1,6 A. Or am I wrong with this number? .
  22. Tamas Juhasz
    Do you mean under green wheels the Lego RC wheels with those green tyres? Yes, they are placed in the rim well, I think the PP wheel also would came off from the rim, if we use a 4 kg 4x4 vehicle. "Was the controller okay? There are 2, right? Train and normal?" Yes, they survived without damage. I desiccated them very well, and the batteries were took out quickly. Yes, one normal, and one speed controller were there.
  23. Tamas Juhasz
    Thanks. Yes, I also thought about alternative positions, but because of simplicity, this was the best. I used a strong part for holding together the bevel gears, it needs quite a lot of space: And this allows to use the thick 12 tooth bevel gear, so it won't break if you put it to the XL motor's axle, like the thin 12 tooth one. http://www.brickshel...Crawler/025.jpg
  24. Tamas Juhasz
    Thanks guys, I worked a lot with the video. Did you see the PF controller "drop" into water at the end? Zblj: yes, it's a bit far to you (even if we met in Keszthely, in 2011), but I think you can find a similar one is Slovenia, too. This track was REALLY hard. It's designed for RC cars, they have at least 4-5 kg weight. Lego crawlers have nothing compared to that. So Rc cars have serious grip between obstacles and tyres (because of weight and soft rubber tyres), our Lego vehicles don't. This is the main reason, why it's harder to us. It's not impossible to build a 4 kg 4x4 Lego off roader, but that would be really in the edge of limit of Lego parts. If we build a 4 kg Lego crawler, the custom 1,9" tyre would came off from the Lego rim because of serious forces. So the use of more softer tyres is nearly the only way to increase grip.
  25. Tamas Juhasz
    Hi all! In June 2014 we made a little trip to test an off road RC track, thanks for it to the Home-Road R/C Team. It wasn't a race, just a test. Pictures can be found here: https://www.dropbox....palya-teszt.rar Video: download link: https://www.dropbox....t-kis-meret.mp4 I recommend the end part from 28:00 to 29:00, some interesting and funny moments can be seen. We used two crawlers, a 6x6 test chassis, and two trial trucks. I hope we can use the track in the future, a cooperation with the RC team is in process. If we had more time, the video would be better, but because it was together with the RC team, we had limited time before their race. The main test vehicle was a crawler, has also topic here: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=97878 Hope you like it. Feel free to ask or comment.
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