Tamas Juhasz

Thanks all. Sorry, instructions aren't available, I didn't make it, and I won't. It's pretty simple: this model is taken apart yet. If I let it be assembled, I would have only about 70-80% of my building parts, that's not enough (many important would missing). Usually I have very limited time, that's why I don't comment a lot of here, and write sometimes later the article in my topics.

That's why nearly every car has a stabilisator, which is a torsion bar (some heavier Lego cars also requires this). That bar connects the two wheels in each axle, so they can't be move fully independent. If cars won't have stabilisators, then as you wrote, they would "bend" a lot with "pendular" movement.

Hello! I'm finished with uploading and lot of work, you can see one of my biggest and most complex moc. I always loved mobile cranes, so I decided to make a Liebherr LTM 1090 with medium sized (62,4 mm) wheels: folder with bigger pictures: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=533546 big montage: http://www.brickshel...90-62mm/002.jpg boom: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=533548 details: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=533547 About the mobile crane: Every function is remote controlled: - driving (1 XL motor) - steering (1 M motor) - outriggers outcoming and legs moving (1 pneumatic circuit with rubber band "control", 1 M motor for pneu switch) - upper structure rotating - boom raising - boom extension - winch (hook) - compressor for making pressure - front lights (together with driving (and steering with "turn signals") ) After outriggers, these functions are working also with one M motor, or directly from the receiver's output. Dimensions: Length: 610 mm Width: 135 mm Height: 211 mm Scale: 1:20,5 Dimensions with raised and extended boom: Length: 1235 mm Height: 1260 mm Other dates: Number of pieces: 3433 Weight: 3460 g Building time: 23 days Speed: first gear: 0,14 km/h second gear: 0,23 km/h third gear: 0,38 km/h fourth gear: 0,55 km/h Maximum boom extension: DETAILS: Flashing light in the back (made with two light brick, but one is covered with that black piece): Lights: Exhaust: Instrument panel: Manometer (for seeing the outrigger's pressure) and gearbox (manual) cover (the dkbluishgray one): You can use the airtnak in the pneumatic system, or not, depends on these two pneu valves: http://www.brickshel...90-62mm/024.jpg Truck The truck part is an 8x8x8 driven construction ( http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5936235 ), with a manual gearbox and One Xl motor for drive. The outriggers are working with pneumatic, as can be seen in the pictures, one motor with pneu valve is enough for control, because the backward movement is done with rubber bands. The pneumatic system is enough strong to pull out the rubber bands and lift the mobile crane's own weight. http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5936260 - I simply wanted to try out this solution (the original also has also a clyinder to push out the legs). It doesn't works 100%, sometimes a little help is needed to came back. The motorized pneu valve isn't my idea, I saearched a lot to find the designer, but it wasn't success. A compressor makes pressure in the aritank (or directly to the legs, see the description above), then the valves can be opened or closed. The PF system has 8 channels overall, so some functions are together with other ones, like the front lights with steering. One PF led is for light. Crane part (upper structure) The most important in this part is the strenghtening in the turntable, I made it with 4 pulleys, and 2 mm width rubber bands (O rings): http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5936256 Works, well, in extended state the boom doesn't deforms the structure. The 4 pneumatic cylinder can raise the quite heavy (3 section) boom, but not in extended state (as most of the originals). The whole boom can be extended up to 1260 mm height. The backward movement is done with strings, not with gravity, it's more reliable. One small Li-Po battery can power the machine, this black button is for power on/off: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5936219 http://www.brickshel...90-62mm/004.jpg - you can switch after the operator's cabin with the dkblgray pneu switch to raise the cabin in angle or not (done with one little pneu cylinder). This video can tell more than me, it took me a time to make it, but it's necessary for this model: Hope you like it. Maybe I didn't write everything, feel free to ask, if something isn't clear.

Thanks! Bart has right, it doesn't need a second clutch after the gearbox, if it would be needed, real cars also would have it. The reason is in the rpm and load: the clutch synchronises the rpm of the motor and the rpm of the axle connected to the gearbox. With another words: the motor makes tension and load to the axles and gears in the gearbox, so first we synchronise the gear (first, second,..) and it's axle with the gearbox (without load). Then the clutch synchronises it with the engine's rpm (in technic also, but simplier). The reason is why clutch is needed in real cars is that the rpm synchronisation would be too quickly without clutch, the mechanisms aren't for that big load, even it takes a very short time. When the rear (or another) driven wheel drives back the gearbox, after the gearbox there is nothing, so there is no load (because the clutch is disengaged). Load causes scratching and similars (without load the synchronisation is done nearly immediately). In Technic, when we shift gear without clutch, there is an electric motor, which drives the gearbox, AND the load, the driven wheel which is connected with the road. So in this case there is load after the gearbox, that's why we can hear scratching.

Yes, this would be a simple way to solve the problem, but He wants to use the black wishbones (or not?).

Yes, that's the homocinetic joint. If the wheel is steered, the light gray piece can came out from this: http://www.bricklink.../PL/92909.jpg?2 But it depends on the use, it can be enough if you drive the car in flat surface, so not in terrain. Stronger portal hubs with wishbones are trial-like suspensions, like these: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=427907 http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=427909 Stronger shaft between the diff and the hub is the 3L U joint, or you can build a very big U-joint with technic parts, but that would be huge for this and unnecessary. Or you can use bevel gears instead of U and homocinetic joints. (something like this: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=4533572 - not tatra, and not this, I just didn't found what I wanted to)

Hello! The problem is about the width/U-joint/Silver champion wishbones. If you bild without the long black wishbones, everything can be solved, and you can still use the 9398 hubs. Use simple liftarms as wishbones. The middle of the U-joints should be in line with the turning points of the wishbones. That's very important. Now the angle of the joints are too big, it's good until about 30°. 42000 hubs (with the homocinetic joint) are pretty weak and you don't need them to solve your problem, but with those the suspension would be simplier.

Thank you! Yes, that white part is a "spline shaft" from a wind up motor: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=505117 - it's smaller and simplier than the "pulley-3Lstopaxle" construction. I could do the building with it also faster. Very good question, it's important. The servo has enough force to do it (not with empty battery). This clutch can work "proportionally" with the PF servo motor. I use it before and after the gear change, it works fine. That truck is a wip project which contains this clutch, after a few weeks maybe I will publicize it.

Hello! For a big projekt I needed a clucth without friction and relative high torque transmission, so I made this: folder: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=532696 ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clutch ) My goal was a non friction clutch, without tension in the input and output axles, which can transmit one XL motors torque. The most important thing in a clutch is the continuous transmission of torque from 0 -to max, and the separation of the two friction discs. This is what it can do, like the real clutches. In my moc, two 30,4x14 gokart wheel transmit the torque (max. ~40 Ncm) only with friction. Yes, the rubber tires have friction and abrasion (after a time a new tire is recommended), but without friction between the discs it's not clutch. In this clutch there is a minimal friction only during the separation of the friction discs. I separated the two types of forces: which pushes the two tires, and those ones, which makes friction (like in every technic mechanism, because of no bearings) in the axles. So the big force (for a big torque transmission) is between the two turntable bottom part, and this pushing force doesn't make tension and harmful friction in the input and output axles. Displacement range: This is 1-2 mm, but after the separation, you need no more. It has precise gaps between the rotating parts, so when it's closed, it works like a long axle, without plus friction. When it's released, it has again non friction in the axles, because the two friction discs can rotate free in the turntable discs: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5922650 Size: I built a big holding frame for the pictures, so it can be built smaller, but of course it's for big models and requires relatively lot of space. I think it's better when we have a big working clutch than a small one which is a torque limiter, or something non-clucth like mechanism. It's all about working, If you think it's big, just see these: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5054271 ; http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=4439709 ; http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=2478965 - these can be used in big models. I need this clutch for a very big truck, I built in, works fine. For me, efficiency is very important, that's why I needed a "non-friction" cutch. Technic is all about compromise: in this case bigger size for less friction. I made a video for better understanding: Hope you like it.

Thanks Guys. @Ape Fight: It was uploaded on 16th July (this week), and also that day was posted on Lego Car Blog. What do you mean last week? "has it been finished a while?" --> it was already finished, when I uploaded.

Hello! After some weeks there is my newest publication, a Land Rover Series I model. I'm planned to make a real off-roader long ago, with this I wanted to build a realistic one with realistic looking chassis. It could be another famous off-roader, but this is the first Land Rover, and it matters me a lot. So the moc: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=531411 Wheels, motor, gearbox: This wheels are made from the 81,6 mm tyre and from the 56 mm wheel. This is enough narrow yet to make this model with it. The model has the standard four speed gearbox with my definite control (see my other topic for more). This model was built a few month ago, that time I didn't have my improved gearbox with the same function, but this also did it's job, at last it didn't came so much load, there is a gearing after the gearbox. One RC buggy motor is there for propulsion (the noise is it's noise - don't ask me about that, this is the standard noise of this high rpm motor). I used that because of it's high rpm, there is a lot of gearing after that including the low gear/high gear gearbox. In this model, my goal was to make a realistic looking car with a realistic looking chassis and technic, performance was secondary. With the secondary gearbox there is in all 6 speed (two is the same). Sometimes in low gear, but it goes everywhere. Chassis, suspension: The chassis is a single ladder type one, with strenghtening beams an plates. The chassis itself contains every working mechanism: The suspension is made from technic axles, to be like leaf springs, and it works like that. There are positioning links to hold in the right place the axles. A small 6 L link holds transversely the front axle. I made the housing of the differential in the rear axle: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5898328 The steering, as in the real one isn't made with gear rack, but with a linkage-like machanism. The suspension performed surprisingly good on terrain. Has handbrake, it prevents roll down in forward direction. All function is remote controlled, the on/off switching of the low gear and winch also, by two micromotors. Under the hood I placed a 4L "fake" engine: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5898334 Body, etc.: Basically the body is a simple plate body with some liftarms and bricks. Of course, the front part was the hardest section. This front look means the Land Rover itself, very easy to recognize. I tried to add many details to the body, like mirros in the left side, turning lights, number plate, door handle to be less monotonous. Inside there is a big cover from a western set, we can find under that cables and technical parts. The steering wheel works, with these old bushes: It has an advantage: the turning is smoother than U-joint drive. Except this it's only an interesting technique, typically for applications which aren't require much torque. Video: (intro is also off roader-like, I didn't find a flat surface) Main specifications: Weight: 1555 g Speed: high gear: 1: 0,50 km/h 2: 0,82 km/h 3: 1,25 km/h 4: 1,67 km/h low gear: 1: 0,19 km/h 2: 0,32 km/h 3: 0,56 km/h 4: 0,92 km/h Length: 387 mm Width: 192 mm Height: 198 mm Scale: 1:9

I think they are stronger a bit because I have less broken 14t gears than 12t. The old material is more rigid, stronger, but because the rigidity they are more likely to brake. Yes, they can be use in severeal unique configuration, for example with 24t gears as a normal gear (not bevel). Shape: the 14t ones are looking like old industrial bevel gears, nowadays we use thicker gears, like these (and 12t ones): http://www.google.hu...img.T2tzlW4l5Is (and the teeth are angled and bent in most cases) Another thing: the 14t gear is the smallest which can drive a 1stud wide chain.

That's the steering motor with the 14t gears. They are a bit stronger than the 12t ones (after my experience). And they can be hold stronger in the axles, in this case you have half stud to hold the bevel gear in place. I like that the 14t gears are flat compared to the 12 ones. Sometimes they are simply better.

Sounds interesting, I'm corious about the final model. Nice narrow suspension, this is proportional for the real one. (but one thing: don't use SO BIG pictures. It takes hours to download, absolutely doesn't necessary that resolution)

Yes, this is useless, if it doesn't increases the torque when the rpm (the final axle) will be lower. BUT your idea is good, I also made a similar one some days ago with two XL motor and with two different input: http://www.brickshel...os/img_7241.jpg - 16:16 on one side; 24:8 on another. This worked as a gearbox, but wasn't good, you have to carrie the other motor, has very low efficiency because of the differential, weak(caused by the 12 t gears in the diff), and the non working motor can be driven backward under high load by the other motor, as it was mentioned already in this topic. It only has one advantage: it can switch gear very smoothly. So the biggest disadvantage of these gearboxes the weakness and the backdrive effect. Of course, in my version, two motor didn' work at the same time. I imagined that as a car, which has one XL motor, and you change them, when you change gear. The ratios are different, so it can work(but I don' recommend it as I wrote ). Back to fake gearboxes: The biggest fake one, and the most misunderstanded(it seemed from the comments) gearbox is this: - totally useless as a 4speed one, this is a two speed gearbox and a power increaser. Better, if you use that two motors together. In this case of the torque will be higher, the rpm also. Thats' not a 4 speed gearbox, but it's really called a "super and innovative" gearbox.

You can make an actuator with an added fishing line (better than drilling Lego): http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=510750 some improvement: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5590435

Looks good, but it's not a trial truck. Nowadays nearly everybody calls every terrain vehicle a trial truck (TT). This is much more a crawler or a custom 4x4 offroader(~crawler). Trial trucks are trucks, usually with big and heavy chassis, cabin, etc. Unimog is one of the smallest trucks in trial, but it's truck, because of ability of carrying some load (original, trial versions usually can't). It's not only for you, everybody should call better these terrain vehicles.

Ok, no problem. Anyway the drivetrain with the small suspension arms is a good idea.

So do you think, yours is the ultimate PF chassis? (ultimate for what?) In this topic we need a 9 stud wide axle, for that the 8297's suspension arms aren't good. You can easily build a 9 stud wide steered and driven suspension with rigid axles: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=474865 (9s wide between the wheels) http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=4725021 http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=475627 (10 s) http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5748591 - mostly for Tatra 7s wide is nearly the smallest driven and steered axle with suspension: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=347706

No, imho more freedom (much higher range outside because it's radio controlled and not infrared) and fun (higher motor performance if you use the RC buggy motor with the RC unit). But RC system is quite expensive.

I agree. An onroad (very important) RC modell makes REALLY fun, when it's fast. But trial truck or crawlers MUST be slow, to control them well. The real RC ones are also slow. (Ok, I know, you meant the first comment to supercars.) I was thinking nearly at the same. I just can't imagine, how could that only two XL motor drive the Land Rover at 4 km/h (as written) speed, with more than 3 kg, and really lot of gears. My Peterbilt had two XL, 2,2 kg, 3 or 4 gears in the drivetrain, and could run at max. 1,2 km/h in fourth speed(1:1,4 final ratio). (I used separate IR receivers[V1] for the two driving motor, nearly full batteries, all gears could rotate easily) Anyway I really like the Land Rover, don't misunderstand me, but that speed is unimaginable from that power. 4 km/h is huge speed for such a large and heavy PF moc. You are right. And the conversation was about the reality of Lego supercars too: which is more real? A supercar with electric driving motor(exists in reality, e.g. mercedes SLS), or a supercar with a huge hand of god? I just want to say that manual functions doesn't make the model automatically more real. I understand the viewpoints, I just wanted to give an other. In my opinion, a technic moc with motorized or even remote controlled functions is "more" and more challanging to build than a manual one. Of course, I mean those mocs, which have nicely covered motors or other electric/RC components, "ugly motorized" mocs are worse than the same without motor. There is basically two opinion, manual or motorized. Both are good, I think, depends on the builders notion. I also really like manual mocs. But imho if we have space for the RC-izing, then do it, imho a "self working" vehicle is more inetersting like a manual one(this isn't really true for supercars, but for construction models, like 8265 --> so everything depends on the type of the model) The tendency is everywhere, you feel that maybe because in hungary this tendency becaome a bit later, I see. I don't see, that anybody is considered in Malug(hungarian Lego users group) because his/her moc isn't RC. They(manual/RC) coexist well. Lego RC cars can be fast, as were written before me. EVERYTHING depends on power (I mean under this dW/dt), and Lego motors doesn't have much of it. Some of us really want to build nowadays with L motor(ok, can be good --> more rpm --> less gear for fast car), but if we take a look at Philo's tables, can be seen that XL motor is still the most powerful PF motor with it's 2,2 W @ 9V. RC buggy can produce 4,6 W. In a fast car you can use max. 2-3 RC unit to power them, the car shuold have 0 gears for best efficiency(really matters), that menas you have max. 6 motors and 27 W. This would be good, but the car has at least 1,2 kg weight. So the speed whic can be reached with Lego, currently is about 16-20 km/h (maybe faster if you overvolt the motors, I didn't try everything). This is really lot compared to Lego. My fastest 4 wheel car could produce 16,3 km/h with one RC unit (the limit was a wall for the measurement ). I also agree, that to much speed compared to the real (1:1) one decrease the reality of the model.

http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/pictures-videos/peterbilt-rear-axle.jpg I think it clears the attachment, under the two 7L thin liftarms there is also this piece: The 4 more of this piece in the leaf springs are built in for stabilizing in lateral direction. The rear axles with the central attachment can behave like this: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=4725034

Thanks guys. It works with technic axles. One 12L axle is enough long to be good for leaf spring. The front axle is connected to the leaf spring axles, and it's stabilized longitudinal with the 9L black links: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5792393 - the front leaf springs aren't 12L axles, but made with 10 and 8L axles, connected together with an axle connector. The axles can work as leaf springs, because they can deform, if you want a stronger "spring", you should use shorter axles(rear suspension). It's in the description. This topic is about the gearbox: http://www.eurobrick...00#entry1458898 BUT: the controller became more comfortable, you need only two IR remote controller for the 4 speed: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5742902 Two gearbox are combined, here can be seen the second with the synchronous ring: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5792390 In the video of this truck you can see the controller and the truck together during gear changes.

Hello! In January 2013 I built this ~ 1:16 Peterbilt 379. The truck is 540 mm long, weights 2185 g (with trailer: 3413 g). The trailer is 690 mm long. http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=524252 Functions: remote controlled driving, steering, gear change(1 - 4), turn signals. The truck has a classic ladder chassis, rigid enough to pick it up by holding in the middle with one hand. It was very important to me to be realistic, every axle has leaf springs - a single axle is used as spring: In the rear axles, the suspension is rigid and strong enough to hold and drive with a 2 kg weight. Besides the leaf springs, the rear axles have links, they can equalize in light terrain. There is two XL motor at the front of the drivetrain, with separate IR receiver for more power(I don't have V2 yet). On Xl motor is under the hood, another one in is in the sleeping cabin. Then we can see the four speed gearbox: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=77000#entry1458898 . With this you can change gear fully comfortable. After the gearbox there is a spline shaft: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=505117 . Inside there isn't a lot of space, and it's full with PF components. One AA battery box, 2 XL motor, 5M motor, 4 IR receiver, 3 PF switch, 3 PF led, an some converter cable are built in. I put a black sticker near to the windscreen to cover them(the Peterbilt logo is my own "painting"): The turn signals also work, with two leds on each side(in the rear bumper and on the cabin door). In the video below you can see it. The working method is simple: one M motor turns a white 24z gear, which enables the led to light with the PF switch. You can adjust very precisely the limit state with the 3L bley axle: It took me for a while to find out, because I need a small turning light operator which fits in the sleeping cabin, where was a very limited space after the gearbox and other parts. The front lights are also working. Everything can be opened(video: from 2:58). Ok, the mudguards aren't together with the bonnet, but I can't do it other. I built in some engine imitation(I know, the real one has different - L6 -, but this can be ~ a V8): It's a trailer truck with this trailer: This one also has an Ir receiver, so the coupling can be full remotely. The support legs can lower/rise the trailer: The suspnesion is adjustable on both axles. The video shows it well from 4:20. You can put even 5 kg of load over the axles. The truck's rear axles also can hol 2 kg, so the total load can be maximum 7 kg. With this, the camion's total wight is more than 10 kg. With this load, it can go in every gear, but it's in 4th of course very weak. In second gear it performs quite well, 0,27 km/h(with 7kg load). Of course, with the full load it can go only on relatively flat surface. The adjustment of suspension can be done with these racks: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/92--Peterbilt379/049.jpg Without load and trailer, maximum speed is 1,1 km/h, with trailer and 2 kg load is 0,5 km/h in fourth gear. The video: Hope you like it.

The instructions are available here: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=523224 I only made 120 pictures for it, are they enough?