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Jeroen Ottens

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Everything posted by Jeroen Ottens

  1. The PF system is the same as the train system. Same channels, same restrictions. Train controllers can be used to control the PF motors, as can the regular technic controllers be used to control train motors.
  2. Possibly, maybe one of the BI testbuilders can try this out. It is likely a better solution than the 16L flexaxle with 2 axle joiners.
  3. Interesting product. What is the sturdyness of those wires? Don't you easily tear them of those pesky little connectors?
  4. I'm not sure where the energy is lost. I hoped that switching to higher gears while in motion would help to keep accelerating, but apparently the energyloss in the higher gears is too much. I have taken apart my copy, so I can't test anymore... I do feel sorry for having added two black 19L flexaxles . When I was building the model I never had thought that someone would be crazy enough to spend the time needed to make building instructions. So I did not pay attention to the rarity of the parts I used. In my next MOC's that is something I will take more into account as a boundary condition. I think the black flexaxle in the back can easily be replaced by a 16L and two axlejoiners. The one for the windshield is more difficult though. I have tried that solution, but it will interfere with the bonnet. An asymmetric solution of 1 16L + 1 axlejoiner will work better I think, but of course it is asymmetrical...
  5. Sheepo's carlift has a switch that stops the motor automatically when reaching the top or bottom of the travel: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=107021
  6. You can check the video for the speed. It is obviously not as fast as the double buggy motor, lightweight RC cars that are out there, but it is still a reasonable speed I'd say. Switching to second gear actually speeds the car up , third and fourth gear are not adding any more speed though .
  7. I think you underrated you're own MOC. It looks great, refreshing colour for a tracked vehicle. The base looks very solid and I'll remember your advice for mounting the sprockets. The addition of the technic man is nive touch. All in all, I'd say a solid MOC that brings a smile to my face
  8. Very compact, yet many functions, great job. My only criticism would be the colourscheme. It is a little too jumbled for my taste. But the use of the little red panels as support for the drum is inspired
  9. Great review, very detailed, good photos and renders as usual. It is a pleasure to read your reviews And of course a great MOC, I to especially like to look from the back. It reminds me of the audi TT. In answer to your comment on the black part usage: your suggestion for the double crossblock won't work, the teeth of the 24T gear will rub against the edge of the first hole. The old steeringpart is the only option to use here. From the pictures I always get the feeling that the model is quite square (especially the sides). How is that in real life?
  10. For even further locking of all parts you might want to use two thin 5L beams with crossholes at the end instead of the 5L thick beam in the center. That way the #1 connectors are fixed in rotation. In practice it will stiffen the structure I think.
  11. Very nice, not sure which colour it is. Is it orange? Or is it overexposed red? I like the reasoning behind the suspension choice. Did you decide that before you started the model, or did you first break some U-joints?
  12. It has improved, but it can be better I think. So let me try to give some constructive criticism (you evidently took Sariel's comments the right way ): The two diagonal lines from the front grille to the window can be modelled quite nicely with panels I guess. The bonnet is very straight and boxy now. Maybe using a bit more curved panels with open spaces in between them that define the lines work better than closing every stud possible. And of course the very, very difficult task of reproducing the distinctive BMW double-kidney grille... I have no idea how model to that, but it is an element worth spending a lot of effort on. If you can reproduce that grille in Lego, you can mess up almost every other part of the car and you'd still think it is a BMW. Final advice would be to lower the panel above the lights to get that angry look (the 8070 is an example of that) and to get a bit more slope in the bonnet. Keep up the good work.
  13. Great model. I actually like the colour scheme (although it does have a bit of a Pokemon ring to it ). Very impressive performance!
  14. Very ingenious creation and a very smart use of the Exoforce lighttube (or whatever it's name). Why do you have to wind up two wheels? I guess one is to raise the weight, but what is the other for?
  15. Good looking truck. A bit plain on the front side of the cabin though. A bit more texture might help here. What's with the double pneumatic handles? Why are they coupled?
  16. Very good! Definitely an improvement over v1.0 Really compact and I love the fact that it uses less gears for transmitting the power at higher ratios. By the looks of it the new driving rings are more forgiving than the old ones when it comes to being fully engaged or not, is that right?
  17. Fantastic review of a fantastic model. You certainly gave it the credit it deserves. I hadn't realized yet how insanely complex and varied the mechanisms were that are used in this contraption. One really minor detail in the review is your comment that adding the 4L axles in the ring is causing strain in the wheel. Mathematically that shouldn't be the case. However my experience is also that adding axles to such a ring will induce some strain. My guess is that that is due to the tolerances in the parts, them being not at exactly 22.5 degrees or not exactly of 4L length. But don't let that distract us from this exceptionally well written review. I thoroughly enjoyed it, flipping back and forth between the description and the pictures becoming more and more impressed by the genius of Akiyuki (and the perserverence of The Rebricker to reverse engineer this) while doing so. So thank you very much for an thoroughly enjoyable 15 minutes of Mechanical Engineering p*rn
  18. No they should not! The gears are now positioned right as they should. It feels a little odd, because they break the symmetry this way, but it is needed to ensure that the two linear actuators are elongated the same amount when they rotate upwards as the beam is lifted. It was one of the few flaws in both the 8043 and the 42009 design, where the designers didn't do that. The difference in elongation is alomst half a stud if I recall correctly, effectively making one linear actuator bearing all the load instead of sharing it between the two.
  19. This looks like a solid, well functioning gearbox. For my Alfa I tried to make some kind of a ratchet mechanism driven by a servomotor. If the servomotor turned right, it would push a knobwheel a quarterturn. When turning back to neutral the knobwheel wouldn't be caught by the ratchet, thus staying in place. I had very little room to build in, so in the end I went for a similar solution as Sariel has chosen: a geared down M-motor to do the shifting. I only added a spring system to have preferential positions for the levers so that you are not too sensitive for the exact position of the motoraxle. But given a bit more space I am sure it is possible to make a servodriven, ratchet-based RC gearbox.
  20. Again, it is a nice little creation and the trailer just wows it, but points of improvement: - The 4L white thin liftarms -> would be nice to have them rotated 90 degrees so that the holes are not visible - The triangle below the door -> it is not straight so now it looks like it can fall of easily (which probably isn't the case) - The white crossblock with red panel -> it looks like both can rotate (and they sometimes are in the pictures), If you'd replace the crossblock with a #1 connector, turn the 4L thin liftarms 90 degrees and connect them to the #1 connector with a 2L axle. Then you can attach the red 2x5 panel to the thin liftarms with a blue pin+axle. Or you can replace the two thin liftarms with a white 5L liftarm and connect the panel on both holes. You do need a connection to the back then as well to completely elimate any motion... Or you can use a white 3x5 liftarm, then you have some more holes inside the truck to secure it. Or two white triangles, then almost all rotations are blocked immediately Well, probably you run into more troubles than I can foresee here , but the idea would be to build it in such a way that all parts are locked in place, no holes are visible and all parts are positioned straight... Easy heh
  21. The truck is not the cleanest design, but the combination with the trailer is awesome . It really brings the model to the next level.
  22. This is indeed one of the best studless trucks out there. It looks elegant (if you can say that about a truck). You asked for areas of improvement, but that is hard to do on such a beautiful model. The only minor things I noted are the position of the L-motor (it looks like it sticks out a bit too much), the blue friction pins in the chairs ('illegal construction' which can be remedied easily with the new 1L liftarms) and the black grill axles (I suspect again an 'illegal construction' for the top axle but also the slope is not continuously over the four axles. The lower two black axles should both be half a stud shorter on both sides to get a continuous slope from top to bottom) But other than that it looks just brilliant!
  23. A nice little car, well executed A video would be nice and of course a belly shot
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