Saberwing40k

Nope, I got all of those out of original Lego sets.

Has anyone noticed that part #6628 Technic, Pin with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Towball has a variant? I cannot believe I am the first one to notice this, but here we go. A while ago, I went to build ZBLJ's mini Tumbler, which involves sticking a pin with bar extension into the socket on the opposite side of the towball. But, the first time I tried it, the bar would not go in! I quickly checked, and noticed that the towball in question had a more square opening on the pin end. I briefly wondered if they were all like that, but they were not, as I found out. Some had a more square opening, and some had a round opening, as shown below. Pin Differences by Saberwing007, on Flickr<script async src="//widgets.flickr.com/embedr/embedr.js" charset="utf-8"></script> The dark bley pin is a 3L pin with axle, and has a square hole on the inside. Next is the towball pin with the same opening. To the right is a towball pin with round opening, and finally a pin with stud, to illustrate another round opening. Oddly, this is not in any way acknowledged in any way by Rebrickable or Bricklink in their databases, meaning that I may well be the first to discover it. Although, I am not sure if one variant is newer, or when each one was in use. However, I checked my 42009, as it is the only recent set I have not mixed in with the rest of my parts, and it has towball pins with round sockets. Can anyone else, maybe Blakbird, check the sets they have to see which old ones have the square openings?

This is interesting, but I hope this does not lead to a precedent of KO companies taking Ideas/Cuusoo projects that Lego rejects, and then making them. I think this could lead to some people buying more of these knockoffs, because they want parts that Lego does not make.

A long, long time ago, back when the [MINI] Technic contest was being run, I decided to build an entry, which would have been a replica of the Lampson International LTL-2600 crane, which was, for a time, the largest mobile crane in the world. My model was actually more inspired by it, and is not a straightforward replica. The primary reason why I did not enter this was due to the fact that, at least according to LDD, I had 230 pieces in it, even though I myself counted only 200. This model also had some major construction flaws, which will be detailed later. This thing's been sitting around forever, and I just want to post it so that I can take it apart. So, without further ado, here it is. Lego Lampson LTL-2600 by Saberwing007, on Flickr Eagle eyed viewers may note that it is not blue, but red. Well, the truss pieces are only available in black, gray, and red, and I only had them in red, so that dictated the color scheme. I guess that would make it more like a Manitowoc crane, but I digress. The crane features, like the real thing, luffing of the main boom, hoist, 2 independent crawler units, 3 cabs, and a large counter weight. My model also has a feature that I don't think the real crane has, but many similar ones do, and that is adjustable radius, which will be shown below. Front Cabs by Saberwing007, on Flickr Rear Cabs by Saberwing007, on Flickr My model, as mentioned above, has 3 cabs, 2 for driving, and one for the crane operations. Even though this thing would be very slow, maybe topping out at 2 miles per hour, having two people driving could be an absolute nightmare. There's probably a good reason for this configuration, but I cannot think of it. The pictures show how the radius can be adjusted, although the real crane can not do this. Minimum Radius by Saberwing007, on Flickr Maximum Radius by Saberwing007, on Flickr The last two pictures show how the winces are configured, and how far down the crane can luff. Winches by Saberwing007, on Flickr Maximum Reach by Saberwing007, on Flickr Finally, the major structural flaw I alluded to earlier: Some connection in the turntables is not that sturdy, so the crane lists pathetically to one side or the other. Leaning by Saberwing007, on Flickr As a last thing, here is an LDD render of what this machine would look like in blue, if the parts existed. Ltl2600blue by Saberwing007, on Flickr And finally, the LXF file: Link

That's really odd, I thought that the NXT motors worked exactly like the EV3 ones, and that there was backwards compatibility. I could have sworn that there was a forum as part of the Mindstorms website, so you could check there. If all else fails, contact customer service.

I think you should get new hoses, cause I want to see a video of everything in action. This is way cool.

While this sounds like a good idea, if any thought is given to it, it becomes terrible. Also, these guys are making the models, at least often times, uglier. I think everybody who has a creation offered for rent should ask them to remove it.

We're talking about Lego parts, I think. I personally think that there really is not a such thing as a redundant Lego part. In the hands of a good builder, any Lego part has a good use. At least for Technic and some City stuff. The specialized parts in the Juniors sets are boring and redundant, and impossible to use for anything else.

It's interesting that there are going to be more Bluetooth add on controllers for Lego Power Functions. However, I have my doubts about this particular controller. I understand that it is an initial prototype, but I still worry about durability, especially if those connectors are planned for the final version. Also, it annoys me massively that you'd have to buy additional proprietary cables to make it work. Also, the issues with the M and Servo motors are annoying as well, but presumably they will be sorted out. However, if reports are true, the software side is much better than the SBrick. But, I think the Vengit guys have and advantage, in that they already have a solid piece of hardware, and software is relatively easy to produce. But, only time will tell. By the way, I could have sworn there was another Bluetooth controller called the Upcore or some such. Whatever happened to that?

I connected it directly to an L motor, which turned out not quite good.

I really like the wheels, I wish Lego would bring them back. Also, your front suspension spindles are kind of odd, do you ever have problems with the ball pins popping out? Were you not able to fit in another half beam to fully secure the pin? Or does it stay in just fine due to the beam holding the wishbones together?

ZBLJ uses the standard version, I think he actually made a video about how he did it, but I'm not going to dig for that now. On to the main event: I have built this contraption in real life, and I can say that it works, kind of. The gears on the outermost ring actually skip, meaning that the inner 2 rings do not receive power, and I see no other way of getting power to the other rings, at least not right now. Also, running it at max speed from a motor is a little bit scary, and you can't really see how the rings move. I'm probably going to figure out something, and post pictures when I get it working.

Wow, I didn't realize they came in LBG in so many sets.

My style tends to be more focused on machines that move or function like the real thing, and I focus less on accurate looks, and more about plausibility. A lot of my creations are absolutely insane from a mechanical standpoint. My favorite parts have to be Technic frames. Not specific ones, just all of them. Having a dedicated frame part can be very useful.

Mahjqa uses most of these parts in his various creations. I personally love the old bionicle frames. You're in luck then, because the new crawler crane has them in LBG. Personally, I do not understand why Lego retooled the bionicle ball joints to make the side of the joints thinner, as if that would help the breaking issue. The other ball joint piece is something I wish they'd bring back, as not only does it have rubber inserts, it can connect in different way than the old joint. I don't think there is such a thing as a completely useless part. Even if I don't use them very often, I still use studded beams, and other stuff like that. Actually, I can think of one redundant part. The new, double sided 16z clutch gear. Why does this need to exist? Any person who would not be paying enough attention to put the gear in backwards is not somebody who would be in the Technic demographic anyway, so it does not really need to exist. Also, why is it eye searing red?

The green is really neon, but other than that, the color scheme is not that bad. What makes it worse is that I don't think some of those sets ever made it to the US. I don't think that any thread like this will ever reach a consensus, because everything is somebody's favorite. Except the Surge & Rocka Combat Machine. Terrible name, terrible design, just no.

What kind of car do you have? I'd say that having handed wheels is not common in plebeian cars like my mother's Honda is not common, but having directional tread for high performance cars is a lot more common. But, for the purpose of Lego, I do not think that handed wheels and tires are a good idea, at least in terms of mold investment. Also, there would be too many people confusing them, because apparently people can't be bothered to figure out parts that are handed, like the differentials, and the old 16z clutch gears

i think that everybody is actually correct. The cable is designed to go from the unusual modified RJ12 connectors* the NXT and EV3 Mindstorms systems use, and the old 9V connectors the RCX uses, as there are several sensors that the RCX uses that have no modern equivalents. The cable can be used to power any older 9V system motor as well, and even Power Functions motors with another adapter cable. This compatibility also works the other way, meaning that the RCX can use some NXT sensors, and motors, although not very well, as NXT motors actually use more current than the RCX can supply. In addition, any older 9V power supply can also power NXT motors to a certain point, also due to current limitations. The old 9V RC buggy receivers can power NXT motors at full power, however. On the second point, there is no possible way to burn out the NXT motors by running them through a converter cable of off any Lego power supply. This is because the motors have internal thermal protection, that shuts down power if the motor draws too much current or gets too hot. Basically, the only way to damage Lego motors is to hook them up to a higher voltage power supply, or override the internal protection. *In spite of the fact that Lego says that the connector on the NXT, and the adapter cable is RJ12, it is not. The connectors are the same size, and wire configuration, but RJ12 connectors have the holding tab in the center, but the Lego cables have it offset to the right side. Therefore, I think we, the fans should call the cables and sockets used on the NXT and EV3 LRJ12, or maybe LJ12.

I don't see any reason why it would not work, but this is not a gyroscope. This is a mechanical sculpture, and it is very cool. The gears might get out of alignment, or rub on the frame, but I don't think that is much of an issue.

You mean to say the 6L PUMPS, not cylinders. There is a difference between a pneumatic cylinder, and a pneumatic pump. Also, rather than just giving you the answer, I think I will teach you how to find out which sets a part comes in on your own. Bricklink and Rebrickable both have catalogs documenting all kinds of Lego parts ever, and what set they were included in. Both sites also have parts sorted into a number of categories, including pneumatics. I think this will help you in the future.

I'd have to say yes and no. Yes, there were more customizable options, but I think that was due in part to the fact that by that time Bionicle as a system had been around for a long time, so they had a lot of pieces with interesting sculpts to work with. I think the CCBS style builds will become more interesting, as new parts with different sculpts are added. Right now, while there are a number of different sizes of shells and bones, all of the shells look rather similar, but I think that will change as Bionicle goes forward with the new system.

Wait, I've got a design that is even better, and much smaller. mini compressor by Saberwing007, on Flickr LXF It uses two of the newer 6l pumps, which are substituted.

I look forward to seeing this. Although, there are not that many dark red parts in CCBS, but I'm sure you'll figure out something.

Ah yes, the Mammoet PTC cranes are awe inspiring. Actually, T.J. Avery built a Lego model of the MSG-50 (Slide 10) many, many years ago, even before the Power Functions system. http://www.texbrick.com/model_msg50/ I actually want to build a version of the PTC- 200, and something similar to the Terex CC-8800 Twin, even though Abrant23 already made a version: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=300293 Funnily enough, I have made a ring crane, but on a smaller scale, that is sort of like the Sarens SGC-120. I think I will post it tomorrow. What do you mean by "Automatic"? Most Lego creations that have gearboxes have ones that are shifted remotely, so that could be considered automatic. Or, are you referring to gearboxes that change gear with no user input at all? Nico71 built a Trial Truck with one, and Sariel had an idea for one as well. Nico's idea and execution are amazing, and so is his explanation as to how it works.

How many times have you replaced the batteries? This sounds like a classic low battery symptom. Also, due to the changed gearing, you may be having issues with current draw. Also, check to see if the receiver has line of sight to the remote, and, as a last thing, check the controller and its batteries.