langko

This has to be my favorite model I’ve seen of this particular car. I especially like the door details. I dare say I like the black/gold version more too. However I agree with the comments about the nose. Looks a bit short/high. Almost like it needs to come forward and down around another stud. I think it might have been better to place the arch 1stud higher and place the flex axle underneath. I don’t think this works. Hight wise yes but width wise the flex axle makes the arch too narrow and it rubs against the tyres. Works fine running the flex axle inside the larger 15 stud arches though.

I personally don’t think think an electric car is very well represented in a manual model. Take the Rimac Nevera for example, I’d much rather see a fast RC model powered by BuWizz with some other motorized functions like doors/adjustable suspension/spoiler. The model wouldn’t be nearly the same or as interesting if you did the same in a manual version. I can’t see LEGO getting rid of the moving pistons and the like by going with an electric car. It’s more likely to be based on a hybrid car like the Sian was. Enough people will still buy it that that’s probably all they need to do to make enough money of it. Agree with this. We could play ‘guess the car’ for ever. Regardless what it is it definitely won’t please everyone on here anyway

This looks great! Agree that the area just in front of the doors is the weak point but the rest is spot on. Love the dbg version. It’s nice to see something in a more neutral colour for a change. Black cars can sometimes hide the details but grey works really well.

Really hope this is 1:8 as well... Would be nice to have it in the same scale as the supercars whilst being a completely different type of car. Not complaining about it being a McLaren, I like Norris and Ricciardo. Fingers crossed it brings back the rare 13/14 panels in orange.

Yes! I wonder if the axle holes will actually line up with these ones!

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=27940&idColor=7#T=C&C=7 This part in white! Looking closely I can see it’s used behind the front wheels. Hoping we get this in black sooner rather than later...

@astyanax Man these smaller wheel arches definitely look better on cars than the larger ones we have... As long you can design it in such a way that the front wheels don't clash with anything when turning, the tighter arches look much more realistic. As always, great job with the modifications

Never heard of this car before, so thank you for bringing it too my attention! I will be sure to watch the video when I can spare an hour, it looks very interesting. The car looks amazing and I'm sure it performs even better. I always like models were lots of things can open up, and this definitely ticks the box there. Favourite part of the bodywork is the rear arches, they way you have positioned the curved 3x13 over the mudguard piece looks great. I've played around with the idea before but it hasn't suited any of my models, I've wondered though if the rear of Bruno's P1 could be modified to do something similar...

Cheers! I won't argue with that Yes correct, at different speeds depending on the gear selected, neutral it doesn't move. I did think about that but if you want the wing to be flat when the car is in neutral then it doesn't work, as neutral is obviously not in the middle of the shifting sequence. Regardless of that, there's no room to continue the shifting axle through the gear box and up to under the wing. You'd also have to make sure all the gearing is in the right ratio... each shift of the gear axle would have to rotate the wing axle by 1/16th of a rotation. Any less than that and you won't get the full 2 studs of wing movement, any more and the wing angle would start to go the other way again... All that extra gearing would also increase the friction in the shifting mechanism as well, which is undesirable. From a playability and toy perspective I personally think it looks cooler having it move when the car is getting pushed along anyway. After all it is called "active aero" and not "car is at a standstill while your shifting through the gears aero". just my 2cents Don't worry you're not the first to echo that Thanks very much for the compliment! Yes... I'm sure most people would've preferred an Aventador... Maybe a future project for you? Yes, fingers crossed. There's not many sets that are worthwhile as a part donor for yellow parts... This years jeep is next to useless in that regard haha

@Lukes_Brick_Studio @SpiritNL Thanks to both of you, much appreciated Glad you both like it. Potentially... but with the price that it would cost to make I still think the audience is still quite limited... Just for some idea i've got a parts list for just the yellow and rebrickable is saying its worth just short of $500AU. Of course the estimate is inflated by the bricklink stores that sell for ridiculous prices, but that doesn't even include the other 3000+ pieces you need. I didn't spend that much (bought a chunk of them much cheaper direct from lego) but there is no way around some of the really rare and expensive parts... If I do make instructions you'll be the first to know Wow that is a huge compliment then! Glad I could win you over With the exception of cars, I honestly don't even like yellow on much else either... This must be the only yellow thing I own haha. That rear quarter section came quite naturally with the panel composition... getting it all on the right angle was another battle. The first rendition that section bulged out too much, but I managed to fix it better with this version. The other parts you mentioned also took a lot of refining to get right, but it was worth the struggle in the end. Thanks again for your nice words

Thanks everyone! Appreciate you taking the time to comment. @astyanax cheers bro, I only wish I had some nicer scenery as a backdrop like you have @LvdH Glad you like it so much. The shifters are purely aesthetic, the linkages only work 1 way. The way the car is the whole area around the steering wheel is very cramped, especially towards the centre where the console is, it's almost impossible to fit your fingers. So I figured this was a good trade off between playability, looks and functions. As for the instructions, I'm not too sure. It would be a honour to have you make my model, but I feel you would be one of the few. I also don't really want to make a hobby feel like work, because then you loose the enjoyment of it. @Jerry LEGO Creations Thanks! I like the yellow too, using genuine lego, yellow and all black (I personally think that would look terrible) are currently the only options... @brunojj1 Huge thanks! Although I haven't made any of them, your models have been a big inspiration for this so thank you. 3 stud centre is necessary to keep the seats so close together, I'm glad I could make it work (just enough space to run a single axle through) I agree on both points with the beams and system pieces, although I do feel I've keep it to a minimum here. (no stack of 15 beams across the bonnet like the original ) The main use of system pieces is on the front lip of the bonnet. I originally had these panels instead, but they stuck out too much... And I couldn't push them back a stud by taking the beam out, because then you only have the centre attachment point... So the system pieces were the next best option to get the look. And if I may offer my thoughts, the amount of rows that look bad depends on the beams. A bunch of smaller liftarms stacked (like the front of your Pista) look quite good, but the longer beams can sometimes look bad even over 2 rows. You will notice the beam stacking on the underside shot, on the outside between the doors and the wheels. This was done to keep a round edge near where the bottom of the door closes, thus avoiding it getting stuck when the door opens. So pros and cons to everything. @Jeroen Ottens @2GodBDGlory @Scoar Sonander Thanks guys, here's a bit off an insight on the wing for you and anyone else wondering. This is a crude and very quick example. A mechanism like this sits above the the rear differential. 2 9l linkages connect upwards to the wing. Every time the axle does a rotation the wings moves up and down by a stud. The wheels run the drivetrain, which goes though the gear box and into the fake engine just like most technic cars. The difference is another axle comes out the other rear end of the fake engine and is then geared down to the above mechanism. The wing then does what ever the pistons are doing (just at a slower speed while keeping the same ratios). Because the pistons don't move in neutral, neither does the wing. It all braced properly and runs smoothly, it was in 1st gear when shown in the video. The rear suspension system I showed in the page back was crucial, with everything being a stud lower I was just able to fit the mechanism and gears under the bodywork.

Ok the weather turned out alright, so here we go. Full list of functions: 1/8 scale. 7 speed + N + R gearbox, with blocks at either end. HOG shifter with responsive paddles. RWD with fake V8 engine. Ackerman steering with HOG and working steering wheel. Active rear wing. Controlled by the drivetrain and the gearbox. Its moves at different speeds depending on the gear the cars in, and in neutral it stays fixed in place. Active aero flaps at the front. Controlled by they steering. Steer left and the left flap opens, steer right and the right flap opens. Independant suspension on all wheels. Butterfly doors. Almost useless opening hood and no luggage space, just like the real car. Detailed interior (including a 3 stud wide centre tunnel). More photos here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/langko/mclaren-senna-v2 Don't know why I didn't make a brick safe account sooner @Zerobricks @Jerry LEGO Creations @LvdH Thanks guys, I appreciate the nice words. Hope you enjoy the rest of the models presentation. (Not much more with the bunny as he's not always cooperative ) @Scoar Sonander Check the video/photos in the above link. It's nothing too fancy. I didn't want to cover up the pistons and making something removable was difficult with the space. There is the cool aspect of being able to see the engine through the window between the head rests though.

+1 for this, I respect that as well. Overall the models lines and shapes are actually quite good. I would just say it looks a bit more like a rough draft, and needs some cleaning up. Mainly smoothing out the doors, making the wheel arches yellow like the rest of the car etc... Whether you look at improving this model, or take the feedback on board for your next build, thats up to you. Regardless, I look forward to seeing whatever you come up with next

Alrighty the cars pretty much done. I'm sure I'll think of some small things to change eventually but for now I think it's about as good as I'm going to get it. Here's a photos for now showing the much revised front end over the original. Plus an underside shot as that's what's most important for a lot of people Phone is flat and needs a charge. If the weathers any good over the weekend (Melbourne so who knows ) I'll film a short video and take some more photos. This version has an active rear wing and front aero flaps too.

I must admit I didn't pay much attention, but now that you point that out I guess it is just a generic italian inspired super car though, so who are we to say whats rights and wrong Wow, seems a bit odd that they didn't talk to you about it... But glad to hear you get some free copies of it. You've earned it

So just saw that this will also be officially released in yellow as well. (There's a video on Cada youtube channel). I must say its pretty cool and appealing to have a model released in multiple colours. It definitely makes it more interesting.

I think having at least a semi-modular approach is essential for efficient building. When I built the dark azure version of the Senna it was built very much like I would build as kid... Just added piece to piece to piece with no sense of modularity what so ever. I learnt to late that made everything next to impossible to change without pulling the whole thing apart. By the time I noticed there was a problem with something the issue was so deep in the model it was a nightmare. The solution was therefore adding more pieces to fix the issue, instead of fixing the root problem. The result was a largely heavy and inefficient model. Second time round I've used a more modular approach and it had been much more successful. It is not fully modular in the sense that you just undo some pins and everything can come apart... but by undoing smaller areas, the model comes apart a lot more easily if required. The result is a build that is 400g lighter whilst being stronger and having more functions. I remember reading in the Chiron instructions that the designer rebuilt the car 100 times... If I had to completely strip the Senna 100 times and rebuild it, I think I would have given up The semi-modularity approach 100% helped avoid that. Maybe if the Chiron was more modular the front suspension would have been easier to fix... Like the dark azure Senna by the time the Chiron would've been finished and you realise the issue, the root cause was so deep in the model it's impossible to fix. I can emphasise with the designer if he didn't want to pull the car apart for the 101th time... On the flip side full modularity is super difficult to achieve and for me isn't necessarily worth doing just for the sake of having something that can easily come apart when finished. That said huge respect for those that can pull it off effectively, and it does add an extra wow factor.

Nice to see this model finally presented! I enjoyed seeing this model progress in the WIP topic. The rear is my favourite, you absolutely nailed the tail lights. The doors are also a big highlight for me. The front curves are well done, although the gaps make it look a bit more incomplete compared to the rest of the model. The front lights are also missing that signature bar which defines the shape more, but that is understandably quite hard to replicate. Overall great job, always enjoy seeing your models, they've been a big inspiration in the creation of own MOCs too so thank you for that

I think its 100% up to the individual. Do the hobby however you enjoy it But personally... it's not really for me. You really have to know what your doing to match the colour and get the look right. I used to do spray painting at an old job and it's definitely not as easy as it looks (avoiding runs, making sure the layers don't look too thick etc...). In terms of technic pieces there's also the extra challenge off painting all the pin/axle holes. If you never plan on taking the model apart it'll be ok, but once you continuously push pins and axles in and out the paint will surely wear off a bit. As others have mentioned the resale value is practically zero too. Only thing I would consider painting are rims as the current options are quite poor... But even then its easier and cheaper just to buy them from china in the colour you're after.

So in between doing other things I finally got around to building the pimped up version plus adding a few of my own mods. Experimented by changing the hood to the 17/18 panels and moving the hinges closer to the middle. This allowed the outside 5/6 panels to be changed to the larger 17/18 ones as well. Filled the remaining gaps the best I could. It's the best thing I could come up with given the colour limitations and the parts I had on hand... but I feel like it closes everything in a lot better. Also reworked the door hinges to add multiple connection points, whilst also getting rid of that stupid LBG bush. I think I've had enough of this model for now and its at the point where I'm happy with it

@astyanax Wow dude, thanks for sharing! You've done an amazing job with the colour switch. I think @T Lego did the best possible job with the dark azure colour palette, but this takes it too another level. The front end looks amazing, unbelievably clean. I like the redone exhaust parts too. Main part is the rear arches where I think the original mudguard piece and bionicle wing look a lot better... but that just shows the pros and cons with each given colour. Minor part would be that the areas that make up the windscreen don't look quite as secure as the original but it seems to work ok. I especially like the last few photos with the water/mountains in the background. Reminds me a lot of the scenery in Queenstown - NZ when I was there a couple years ago.

Haha well getting rid of them entirely is technically 1 way to fix it Look forward to seeing the finished product!

Ooo I can't wait! looking forward too seeing your take on it. (please tell me you found a proper way to fix all the panels over the front arches ) That's something I've been struggling with this model too... it's hard to secure things at the right angles without them affecting the turning of the wheels, so I can see why he did it that way. As for the virtual modelling I appreciate that, and I'll keep that in mind. I've played around with studio a bit and quite like it for the most part. But part of my day job is to make instructions for the stuff we manufacture so I'm just not sure I want to spend the time doing it at home too Cheers bro. Sometimes it definitely helps leaving the model aside for a few months and coming back later with fresher eyes. Securing certain panels so they don't rotate around. Also trying to fix one area around the headlights where certain things clash...

Agree with this point. Going through all 47 entries, picking the ones I liked, narrowing that down to 6 and then putting those 6 in order took a fair bit of effort. Many times I had to go back and check I had the right number for the right model. I can see why some people wouldn't bother.

@astyanax Cheers bro, seeing you try upgrade and improve models to the max (sian and pista for example) motives me to do better too, so thank you for that. @LvdH Thank you! I honestly lost track of the amount of attempts/hours I've spent on the doors. The even earlier versions in dark azure looked absolutely terrible haha. I also think the yellow looks better too, both in the model and real life. @Gray Gear Ah yes I can see that now looking at the underside shot of your GT-R. Now that I'm paying attention I also notice you had them that way on your current MOC before you added the 4 wheel steering. Definitely agree that it is superior, and will probably be using it for future MOCS too. I got the idea after building the Sian and seeing them used in the back but the normal horizontal way. Figured it was worth a try rotating them and it payed off. Agree with the long panel, also helps having those slopes available in 2 stud wide versions, dark azure only allowed the single. @mojitoca thank you, glad you like the looks of it! Definitely won't be a GTR version, I don't need to have 2 MOCS that are so similar, next project will be something different.