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I think the original Huayra had a physical handbrake and then it was ditched from the BC onwards as a weight saving measure

Pretty sure that is the interior of the 1/5 Pagani Huayra Codalunga. (See the writing on the door near the speaker) It’s built a bit differently. https://www.pagani.com/huayra-codalunga/ Excited to see what you come up with!

I found them in this album. 2 years ago haha, shows how long I’ve been tinkering with this in and amongst other projects.

Correct with the part. I actually forgot I took them… I think they’re somewhere in my bricksafe as a WIP. The dorsal fin/roof scoop was the first area I played around with as I figured it would be the hardest. Those photos were taken before the updated diffuser etc…

Thankyou for offering such an amazing resource for free! I’ve only read the first bit and the section on the studded building system is extremely helpful as it’s not something I’ve used much. I never knew part #5565 existed so that’s good to learn. I’m sure there will be plenty more to learn and helpful information as I slowly read through it all. Best wishes again for what the future holds with your exciting Lego journey.

Thankyou, I’ve actually been hoping for this part in this colour. So I’m happy with that. That’s confusing, no wonder everyone gets the colours mixed up on here. (I’m personally used to the bricklink colours) What I’m used to as normal green is considered dark green on that website, and what bricklink calls dark green is called earth green. I’ve never heard of turquoise being referred to as bright bluish green or lime as bright yellowish green either…

Sorry there will be no instructions for this version. But the original instructions always encouraged customization, I’d encourage you to just give it a go if it’s something you really want 👍🏼

What set is this?

September 7th in Aus edit: I fell this is pretty common here with all the 1:8 supercar releases

Yeah I was a bit disappointed when I saw that the connection was 'broken' in the middle. But even if it was fixed my experience with these types of suspension in MOCs is that it does indeed do next to nothing functionality wise. It's mainly for the looks I think, and it's definitely an improvement in the right direction that they even tried to add it all.

This indeed looks a lot better. I think some people are quick to assume that the opposite of colour coding/vomit is an all black chassis. But I think you can make a chassis with black/LBG/DBG that looks clean and is also easy to put together. Then if you must use another colour to make something clearer use the colours used in the bodywork. In this case if you used tan or dark orange, it wouldn't look so bad because it at least matches the overall colour scheme - no need to use red/lime/yellow or whatever. Other design choices also make it seem like they're intentionally trying to add blue pins into the model. Take the one in the upper a-pillar for example: which could easily be avoided by replacing the 2 thin liftarms (++) to a (+O) liftarm. Less pieces as well.

There abouts. It’s interesting because if you filter by new cars only then you have roughly 34,500 autos to 675 manuals for sale. Which is closer to 98%-2%. Suggesting that the manual is slower disappearing. I never learnt how to drive a manual, my dad had an auto when I was learning to drive. It’s on my bucket list of things to do, but more so I actually have the ability to do so if needed - not because I see myself owning a manual car any time soon.

To give you some idea: currently on Carsales Australia there are just under 200,000 autos for sale and 17,500 manuals.

@JesseNight Sounds good, enjoy the journey and I look forward to seeing the finished product 👍🏼 The photos section on rebrickable is always handy, I always have a good look if there’s a MOC I’m interested in building. Well both my earlier cars broke down and were in the scrap yard well before that was an issue. Current car is more of a crimson darker red and is much more reliable. So hopefully won’t have either issue haha

Very clever. And I appreciate the diagram to help understand the concept more. I’m definitely not smart enough (or motivated enough) to work out if that works with the existing shift drums we have… I still feel like it’s a new variant in some form or another. And I’m still not sure how you rotate the gear indicator correctly from a 45/90 degree input…. Whatever the solution for that has to work with the GWP too.