langko

Random thought but since its completely possible to fit the standard 1:8 scale tyres/rims inside the 1:10 scale fender pieces without rubbing... Do we think it would be possible to fit the 1:10 scale tyres/rims inside these new 1:12 scale fender pieces? If so I think one could make a pretty cool and more accurately looking 1:10 Ford Gt using all the new dark blue pieces. Not to mention other 1:10 scale cars in dark blue.

Having a full set of #1-6 connectors with the axles on the end. If you think about it are pretty much connectors #1/2/6 in this style. Having versions like 3/4/5 would definitely by helpful for more compact angled assemblies when space is an issue. but with both axles holes would have also be useful for me in quite a few situations.

Well done for taking all the feedback on board and looking at improving the model, this version indeed looks much nicer. Overall I think the lines and shape look pretty good. The only exception is the rear sticking out to much when looking at it from the side view. Although reducing that to look more like the original could be quite difficult as you won’t have nearly as much space to work with... I don’t think it’s an ugly looking model as it though. The biggest problem for me though is the bodywork sticking out past the wheels. That doesn’t look right at all. Apart from that some minor details like the headlights, gaps in the top of the door and side mirrors could be improved. Take T-legos centenario mirrors as a nice looking example, just because LEGO uses small panel doesn’t mean we have to. Also maybe next time just post this in the original thread? I don’t think one needs a new post every time one updates a model. It makes it easier for everyone to follow along the journey so to speak.

"perhaps due to inexperience" but you managed to reverse engineer a 4000+ part model haha But trust me, over engineered is always better than it being flimsy. You can lift my original one from the roof as well. Plus we are not working for LEGO, so we don't have to sacrifice parts (and structural integrity) to keep the production costs down. Well I would judge that a lot of them are definitely improvements! The only thing I'm not to sure about is the headlights... I tried versions like that originally but was happy with anything I came up with. On the red model they look ok as they blend in with the surrounding area, but on the black I feel like they stick out too much and look oversized. The rest of the modifications though I love all the extra small details you have added everywhere! Those pedal are probably my favourite, very clever use of parts. The clamshell limiters are great too, I didn't even know those parts existed...

Bro what the heck, I can't believe it I legit first thought someone had made a photoshopped version to try and sell some dodgy product haha I can't believe someone tried to reverse engineer it, but if anyone would I can't say I'm surprised that it was you. Its actually insane how close you got it based purely of photos and a video... whilst also improving it the same time. Those new big shock absorbers look amazing! I sadly didn't have them available when I built the chassis so its cool to see them included here. The red version is jaw dropping I really wanted to do a 2-tone version but at the time of my model the parts didn't exist, the Daytona now makes it possible. Absolutely fantastic job! And 4,565 pieces?! man that's gotta be close to a record for this scale car haha. My guess would've been around 4000 even. I take it you fixed the shifting direction as well? Respect where respect is due.

The black parts look great, that angled yellow strip though the sides looks amazing! However I'm really not sold on the DBG, I don't think it works well with the yellow at all and IMO would look better all black. Hopefully you get some nicer rims as well. Agree with bruno about the proportions... The model does seem a bit too long. I had the same issue when designing mine, I completely re-did the entire chassis at one point to cut 3 studs of length out of it (Painful) but the results looked much better. The 4 stud thick B pillars are a bit disturbing as well. @astyanax Where did you get that photo from? That doesn't look like mine does, someone must have edited another image of mine... They've changed the suspension, exhaust pipes, opening linkages and some other details... here's what mine actually looks like: I had just a simple knee mechanism in the back to hold it up.

Great looking interior! Definatly agree it’s one of the best you’ve ever done. LEGO needs to take some notes haha, all the interiors on all 4 of there UCS cars look unfinished and low on effort... Look forward to seeing some more photos. The struggles you’ve had with the model seem well worth it, well done with persevering through the headaches (I know the feeling all to well, I rebuilt the entire chassis multiple times on mine)

Lots of interesting new parts in this set for sure! But surely with so many new custom parts they could come up with a better looking rear wheel arch... Cool to see the use of black 2l axles instead of red... but they go through all that effort just to put 2 red in the front of the hood, instead of the DBG version.

Those wheels look amazing! Well done on this model, although I think it would deserve some better taken pictures to show it of a bit more.

So I am also not a fan of applying lots of stickers, nearly 80 of them wasn't going to happen... I personally think white looks a bit boring for a sports bike so I wanted to do something different. In the end I chose blue. Blue seemed to be a popular colour on the predecessor S1000, so I figured it would look good here as well. Plus it was nice to build a model in this colour as the inventory availability isn't quite there yet for to make a 1:8 supercar... Plus this colour is great for hiding the blue pins! I added a few white accents to match the white around the windscreen, plus built the main stand out of white instead of yellow. I made a few changes to the bodywork similar to @LegoHoops version above, thanks for the ideas and inspiration! I also changed all the unnecessary yellow in the middle of the model to LBG. Overall I really enjoyed this build, would definitely recommend. Crazy thing is I got the model for a heavy discount at an EOFY sale, even with adding the cost of brick-linking the rest of the parts it was still cheaper than what LEGO is selling just the set for...

From what I can see, it's still not available in Australia...

Not sure if I like this car in real life but your's looks great so far! Headlights look at lot better underneath the panel, I really like those red rings at the front too.

Completely agree with this. I had done some testing with CaDA end of last year/start of this year and had experiences with these 3l connectors shattering under load... That was even with normal motors before the more powerful motors in the Apollo. You replace the axles, then you have to do the connectors, then the cv/u-joints, then the gears etc... then you eventually have a car so fast the wheels pop of the hubs when you drive it and the problems never end.

Thanks for the heads up, I put an order in this morning! First time since the new system... will see how long it takes to arrive to Aus. I got a set of yellow diffs to try out on an RC build, still much cheaper than trying to get them from bricklink... I got some 3x19 frames and a bunch of the newer black parts from the Ferrari/Mclaren F1 cars as well.

This looks awesome so far! Very creative idea, look forward to seeing it in action. It looks quite big, what’s the rough diameter of the wheel?

Good to know, thanks! Yes but its pretty easy to look at the original model and see what he did. Most of them can be changed to black without effecting the look and its easy to see the work arounds for the other stuff. The hose was the only thing that wasn't immediately obvious... I was worried it had been cut, that's a no deal for me.

Ok, I just hadn't seen them last time I checked and I had seen it mentioned here before. I know some people buy the set just to get the instructions so they can build it out of LEGO... No point doing that if the instructions are freely available. I had a quick look through the instructions and it doesn't look too hard to change it for the dark azure LEGO. Only thing I wasn't sure about was the 12L flex axle at the front... Does a 16L axle fit? That's the shortest in dark azure... What did you do in that spot?

If anyone is interested in instructions for the Apollo IE, they are up on CADA website for download. https://www.doubleeagle-group.com/cada-bricks/moc-v12-hypercar-c61053w

I understand what you mean with the clutch gear. The Cada version is definitely not space efficient in that regard. Thanks for the thoughts on the Jesko! Look forward to seeing some more photos with the Regera. How long do the clamshells/doors take to open? Is it like the Regera where you have to turn and turn the gear for quite a while. Some of the videos I’ve seen are very slow, which kinda takes the fun away a bit for me tbh. It’s a shame with the rear wheel steering, that’s a function you don’t see much of so would’ve been cool if it worked better. As for the wheels popping off I’ve experienced that as well with the Centenario rims they sell. It got so annoying I don’t use them for anything anymore. With the roof not fitting in the front, that’s actually accurate as the real one doesn’t either. I remember watching a video on YouTube with Christian talking about the car, it’s to do with the triplex suspension now in the front, as well as the air vent/scoop in the bonnet.

Thanks for the in progress shots and feedback, I appreciate it! From experience I think the sagging is to do with the backlash as well, even if you assemble it correctly. But I understand what you mean, its like building gearboxes and the like - if you press the gears too tightly between beams etc... you will add too much friction. Interesting to see the range of motion on the doors. If anything the Regera opened too far (say 100-110degrees), where's this looks more like 70ish degrees. Which is surprising considering the mechanism is so similar. Part quality looks more or less like what I've experienced too. Plus what's the go with all the instruction errors (and in critical places as well)? LEGO/CADA doesn't seem to make much difference lately in the regard... I can more than accept TLG adopting the odd ideas from competitors when over 90% of those competitors parts are copied straight from LEGO Definitely an interesting solution. For sure looks more complicated/harder to manufacture. How does all this effect the models they already sell? The Lamborghini and Ferrari both use the wave selector, are they going to start selling the sets with this new part? (assuming it even works with those designs?)

Wow that is quick! The few things I’ve got from China have taken 4-6 weeks (to Australia). Interested to hear what you think too, so far the only videos about it I’ve found aren’t in English... but by watching them the functions seem to be very mixed, the doors especially look like they work terribly (above video the person linked is 1 example). Surely we don’t need a whole new thread for that... we can talk about the model here.

Good luck with your project The new shocks look great with this layout for sure! And you avoid the issue of having them off-center like they are in the back of the SP3. Would definatly recommend red as the bodywork instead of white. You have much better part availablity in red and the final result will look much better.

Now I understand what you mean, and you infer correctly again. I've done some testing with the setup in a dummy frame... It seems the connector only catches when the blue gear is rotated at a specific angle (when a tooth is at exactly 12 o'clock), other wise it just passes between the teeth. I also think there is just enough backlash in the gear that when the connector does catch it still rotates through ok. Admittedly this is not ideal but it seems to explain why you can get away with it in a static situation. In a moving situation you are in trouble. Out of curiosity I took my Bugatti (pimped up version) and Lambo (stock) and testing the gear shifting whilst moving. They run a completely different setup to the Pagani so it was interesting to compare. Both models completely failed and I seem to have broken something internal in both of them... I also have another unreleased MOC of mine, I designed a new unique paddle shifting/gearbox for it. It uses the above mentioned microphone pieces, there are no interfering situations like you've mentioned, and it has zero elastic bands (runs entirely with soft shock absorbers). In a static situation it is by far the most reliable system I've ever used, yet I tested it and that still struggles to shift whilst moving. Which makes me wonder what one has to do to achieve that in a N/R/7 or 8 gearbox with a shifting mechanism. Is there simply way too many gears/knobs in such a system? Or will a manual system be too slow too operate under such conditions to work properly? (compared to the quicker shift with less gear/knobs that be achieved with a motor) In response to 1: I think any idea that is reliant on you choosing the right combination of parts isn't the greatest solution. The microphone parts work the same every time regardless. The Bionicle Eyes might not be a bad solution, they might just not be the best one. In response to 2: The Centenario gearbox runs of a different system and doesn't use the Bionicle Eyes, (also no N/R in the setup) so I think its a bit hard to use as an example. Have you tried the shifter connected to Anto's gearbox, and compared between the Eyes and the Microphones? That does make sense with the RC but I can't think of a good reason to put such a setup in a RC model haha.

To be honest I had never thought about shifting while moving but I have tested and it works at a very slow speed, but not when things are moving quickly. I had indeed gotten rid of both 35186's in my model, simply because mine was a stud more compact and didn't need them. The overall layout is a bit different to Anto's due the needing to block of the 8th gear to create only 7 gears. The 90degree limiters/blockers work a bit differently because of that. I'm curious why you think the driving ring (or lack of one) makes a difference in relation to switching between 4th-5th? My understanding is that it would the same in both cases, for me the weak link is in the shifting mechanism not gear layout. From experience the Bionicle Eyes on the knob gears (58176) are not ideal because they create too much friction. Using the microphone (90370) parts work better because they are slightly smaller in diameter and therefor have less friction. Sadly this model still uses the Bionicle Eyes as it was designed well before I learnt the above mentioned fact, and I just haven't bothered tearing the car to down to fix it. But that would definitely be a change I would make to the model.

That looks awesome! Even simple things like getting rid of those orange 3L pin with bushes makes a massive difference.