langko

@Jeroen Ottens the engine details look great! I like the method used to place those black beams on that crazy angle as well. +1 for @T Lego suggestion as well. I managed to take Anto’s concept and modify it into a R+N+7 gearbox for my current project. It works very well and takes up very little space.

Wow this looks awesome! I much prefer the blue over the black (not that the black was bad at all) but the blue really pops. Great shot with your other 2 cars as well

This is looking amazing! Big fan of the new roof, although I also agree the engine cover would look better black.

I ordered 10 of those parts from bricks n pieces too (Australia) I've just checked and they are all crap as well. I'd used six of them so far and didn't notice because I only used them at the hole points.

@Gray Gear sweet! Looking forward to it

As in the dark blue from the rear of the Bugatti? Or some other brighter blue?

Ah I understand now

All good, glad I’m not the only one that doesn’t understand. I’m not sure that would work.. if you then put 2 of those stacked worm gears on a rack the shim in between would cause it to be misaligned? I think it may be a choice between one or the other. Glad I’m not the only one who thinks so. Thanks for the reassurance I might not be going crazy! That’s what I wanted to find out. But it didn’t go anywhere in the AMA and now it has ended...

I understand that also. (And thankyou for explaining the calculations in more detail). But my question in the AMA was if you were willing to sacrifice the stackability, wouldn’t a perfect 2l or even 3l worm gear be possible? (The answer was apparently no, but I don’t understand why that would be so)

I understand you can’t make the threads more diagonal, they have to be at that pitch to mesh with the gears properly. What I didn’t understand is why you can’t just continue the thread to make the worm gear a mm or so longer. As well as you, I could not find any answers in that linked topic. My logic is that if you were to add a small shim on the axle to reduce the backlash (I used to build worm boxes for a living and we did this) the worm would still operate properly. Now what would be the difference between that and making the worm thread slightly longer? After that discussion in the AMA, I went and spoke to the head engineer/designer at my work, and he even told me that the length of the worm doesn’t matter (of course too long is pointless because you only need a certain amount of threads to engage the gear, and if it’s longer than needed the gears could skip under load). But given the intended application with LEGO I don’t see that being an issue.

This is looking great, it’s nice to see WIP from experienced builders as it’s good to learn from. I like the wheel wells, that’s something you don’t really see in LEGO technic. The fact it’s so solid without much of a centre column and without being cluttered is awesome. Looking at the photos of the real thing though http://hennesseyperformance.com/all-new-venom-f5-carbon-fiber-chassis/ I’m not 100% on the proportions of the windscreen area, the real one looks more rectangular I look forward to future updates as well!

Slim pickings on Bricklink stores in Australia, looking at $100+ which is expensive for something I wouldn’t use much... that goes much further buying other parts for Mocs. Hand crank kinda defeats the purpose for me too, the joy is to sit back and watch it do it’s thing without needing to touch it.

I only found out about GBC I few months ago haha. I actually have around a dozen LEGO sports balls from the soccer sets I had when I was younger, which is probably enough for a basic contraption. I just don’t have any motors or anything like that to give it a go.

This looks amazing! I quite like the colours, even the bits of lime. It mimics the real one perfectly. Only thing I’m not too sure on is the rear exhaust...

Yup, that’s the main reason I went with the HOG changer. And I couldn’t fit paddle shifters because of the way I did the doors... Hopefully I’ll rectify that in version 2. I know the stepper can fit in a 5 stud wide centre column. Maybe try that?

Unnatural in what way? To be clear they’re not attached to the bonnet, they stay exactly where the are when the bonnet is opened.

Looking good so far! Excited to see how the body work comes together. I’m working on something else atm but I plan on reworking my senna afterwards. Now that I have a bit more building experience I want to try a squash more functions into it. One thing I would say though, 7 stud (if I’m counting correctly) centre column is widdde for this car. In real life the seats are almost next to each other.

I like the draft for the bodywork a lot!

I’m sorry, I have read through it multiple times and I still don’t understand. Your answer to my original question was so that the worms are stackable (which I understand) But if you did not care about them being stackable could you not make them whatever length you’d like? A perfect 2l 3l or even 4l? For clarity I only mentioned making a 3l one so it would be easily distinguishable from the current 2l one. I would actually rather a perfect 2l one as it’s more compact, but understand that would be a nightmare telling it apart from the current one. I’m not sure what Pi has to do with it.

Can you please explain why that is?

Thankyou for that link. What about one without bush ends? Just like the normal one that an axle can pass through? (Sorry if I’m asking to many questions)

Makes perfect sense. (I never thought of stacking them together) But wouldn’t stacking them make the length difference even worse? Would it be possible to have a stackable version and a non stackable version? Maybe a new 3l one that is a perfect 3 studs long?

I have a question as it’s annoying me in my current builds. Why are the 2l worm gears not exactly 2 studs in length? It means the gear can slide up and down the axle slightly which isn’t desirable because of the backlash it can create. If paired with an 8 tooth gear the backlash can be quite a bit. It’s seems to be more of a problem when mounting the worm gear vertically, when horizontal its not as bad as you aren’t fighting gravity.

Finished my own revamped GT3 RS thanks to the Pimp my Porsche on rebrickable. Also, not sure if anyone has done this (haven't read all 36 pages) but an extra 3x13 curved panel either side of the bonnet fills the gap perfectly.

No worries! I definitely agree, The amount of times I’ve spent hours trying to do something just to find an easier way later... Just so it’s clear as its hard to tell in the photo.The dbg piece under the headrest runs vertically not horizontally. Otherwise the angles don’t work.