Jim

That's pretty awesome! I love the fact that you combined everything with SBrick.

Hi Marc, Welcome to EB. Not a very good first impression to bump a two year old topic, just to add a copy & pasted description of something we already know. Please read the site guidelines!

I have updated the entry topic. Fire away.

Hi Renamed! Can you try to embed the images in the posts, instead of linking them to Flickr. Make sure to use the 800 px versions of Flickr. Nice entry!

@mescalinum Your pictures are really promising. The last one looks very natural! Is it possible to have a clear white underground too, or is it very hard with a setup like this?

I also think that Brickset is perfect for this. Having a collated list of some sorts is interesting, but I don't think it will work (or be useful) for Eurobricks. But I'm listening...

I don't think so. Probably January or February. (not 100% sure)

I will update the entry topic shortly. Basically you need to post: Name of your model Picture(s) of the original model(s) Features of your model At least a single picture of your model Optional extra pictures of your model Optional video of your model Optional picture of leftover parts The image manipulation discussion boils down to this; I won't impose a rule to make a promotional image, which takes photo editing skills. Besides that, the presentation is pretty much up to the user. Altering colors of parts and replacing backgrounds is not permitted. Manipulating (disallowed) Background replacements Altering part colors Modifying (allowed) Remove (part of) the background to have it equally coloured Adjust brightness and contrast Additional logo's - no real objections Annotations - no real objections Composite images - no real objections (if you can post more than a single picture) Which basically mean that if I don't impose rules on creating a "promotional image", everything else is up to the contestant himself. So unless you start altering part colors etc, Where shall I put the next two things?

Seriously? Take another look

Hi Ole, Please don't react as if the rest is accusing you of being a criminal. Before this derails; people here don't know how prototype parts are being handled by/at TLG, so they are purely speculating. Nothing personal.

True. This is perfectly fine. And wow, what a great idea. As a space-and-everything-that-has-to-do-with-it-enthusiast I am very pleased with the entry. I do like to see a picture with tireless rims. to convince us it's not the best solution. Tires on a Mars rover simply doesn't make sens.

Thanks. And true, the grey really pops out the model, without being distracting. Actually, they are pretty simple (and cheap) photo studio lights. I have purchased them somewhere online for 130 euro (set of 3) or something. Blakbird has ordered more or less the same lights recently via Amazon. Something like this will work fine: http://www.amazon.co...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Well, you do shoot a clear picture

That's a nice tip! Do you have a sample picture of a LEGO model you shot like this? I am interested to how this works on an actual model.

I like the pull back dragster with dark (41999) blue panels. Hi Filip, Welcome to EB. You need to create 10 different posts. When you post within 15 minutes after your own post, the posts will be merged/concatenated. So join some conversations and after a while you will be able to make your own topic and show us your creation. Please don't use topics to just say "Post 2, Post 3, etc". Thanks

I started with a three point setup, but I noticed the lighting was very hard (in confined quarters), so the model reflected to much. I started by pointing the lights a bit upwards, and then some more, until I ended up pointing them almost directly up, without using the third light. Overall I am very satisfied with the natural lighting. And this setup saves me a lot of room.

I could not agree with you more. This MOC is close to perfection!! Hopefully there won't be a vacancy in the Technic department at TLG, otherwise we will probably lose Madoca

Thanks! I'm using a Canon 70D, but I am convinced you can get more or less the same results using a Canon 600D/650D/700D. A friend of mine has a 600D (which I used for my first reviews). Maybe I can borrow it again to compare both setups.

Thanks Sariel. I appreciate a compliment like that. And I must honestly confess that I can keep looking at the image of the bike. It's so crisp, with the orange and black color scheme But like you said; post processing is imperative in getting results like this. You can get to 90%, but never to 100% without it.

True. A light tent isn't really necessary. It might be useful in some cases, but I also think you can do without. Post processing is very important indeed. Nice tutorial Yup! I have been using Adobe Lightroom to whiten the background. It is lot's of work and you will get artifacts, which aren't desirable. This pretty much sums it up This is my current setup with two indirect daylight lamps: Which results in images like these: As you can see I have switched to a grey background. This reduces my editing time from several hours to a single hour (just cropping). When using a grey background, I don't mind the shadows. Using Lightroom you can predefine some setting to enhance sharpness, clarity etc. When I have taken pictures, I import them in Lightroom with these automatic settings. Then I only need to crop them. I always use RAW instead of JPG, so you can always correct the white balance. You will never get a 100% white background (without ruining the rest of the image) by using a different white balance though. I never change the WB level (on the cam or in Lightroom). Be sure to post process in Lightroom, Photoshop or other software to enhance the quality of your image. If you have the option, use a fixed focal length lens (like Sariel mentioned). I am using the cheapest Canon lens you can get, the 50mm 1.8f. It's around 100 bucks and as you can see it's pretty sharp. Since I always shoot at 20f, it doesn't really matter whether you get the 1.4 or 1.8, besides the fact that the 1.8 is much cheaper. Also make sure to use manual focus, instead of auto focus. Zoom in and adjust the focus. Another important thing is to apply lens correction. Otherwise you will notice the curvature of the lens. Check that your camera isn't on Spot Metering. This will result in having different exposures depending in the focal point being on a black or white part. Use evaluative metering or some other setting that will evaluate the entire scene, instead of your focal point. So to recap: Use a tripod Set the camera to Av mode (so the cam will calculate the shutter time) Use a remote Always set to ISO 100 Use MF instead of AF Don't use Spot Metering Use RAW for better post processing options Always do some post processing to enhance IQ (image quality) Apply lens correction Use daylight lamps (two or three, depending on your preferred setup) Use a prime (fixed focal length) lens is possible (always sharper than zoom lenses) Below you can see the difference between two pictures (with and without post processing in Lightroom. Settings I change are: Sharpening Luminance Clarity Vibrance Exposure Highlights Shadows Whites Blacks Lens profile correction Chromatic abberation It seems like a lot of work/settings, but once you have the right settings, everything is done automatically. Original (cropped image) Post processed image One very important rule of post processing is: Don't overdo it (don't exaggerate). I have found myself in the same situation and by experimenting I got to my current setup, which results in consistent pictures during day or night time. Since your lighting and overall image quality is pretty good, I suggest to start using with Lightroom. It will make your life easier and your pictures better. If you need any help, I would gladly assist you in your efforts.

Hi, Welcome to EB. I haven't built Track3r so I am not sure what the problem can be. So the program runs but the brick doesn't respond to input from the remote?

Indeed better than the original. And I do like the gears showing. Very well done!

Simply put; torque relates to power/strength and RPM (rotations per minute) relates to speed. Lookup both terms on Wikipedia/Google for more information.

I have merged your new topic with the old one, to keep the information in one place.