amorti

Not to take over the thread, but bearing hubs already exist, and they're very affordable. https://tf-engineering.at/wheelhub/ I can't count myself among this number. So for me I'd definitely prefer a built-in receiver and you tell me which remote is suitable for it, so I order it from uncle Ali (or from you if you're willing to resell it as part of a package, and have already taken that risk of getting it into the EU customs area). Even better if building the receiver internally, means it's smaller and/or easier to package in a model.

Asymmetric power curve can be a problem when you reverse the pf plug.

So, what would the finished package look like? If the receiver is separate and the battery, does that mean there are now three items to house? And some of those without any Lego connections, so you have to zip tie them on? I think that pushes it further into a niche of people who are already proficient in RC gear, as opposed to the originally presented design where it could more or less replace a buwizz unit within a moc.

Could you have 4 sockets, even if there are only two ESCs? So that two would only be repeaters. In this way, you wouldn't have to stack the PF plugs. I imagine it like using the old electric plates to power two 9v motors.

I'm with @gyenesvi on the geek servos. Lego PF servos are silly money and don't last long at all. Third party PF servos can't do proportional steering. PU servos would need firmware, and even once you get them centred and the limits set up, they have quite a lot of slack. So, that leaves geek servos. I don't have one and never used one, but seems like an all round better option: smaller, stronger, more accurate, (assuming it's the same as any RC servo) less slack, easier to program in this context. Would it be possible to give two twinned PF outputs on the top? Sharing a speed controller, but not requiring plug stacking?

I don't think this unit is really intended for cranes and forklifts etc. which can use 6 ports like a bw3 has, but don't require high output. It's intended for fast models requiring one servo for steering, one servo for 'something else', and up to 4 drive motors plugged into the two pf ports. For me at least, fewer ports and less complications is all for the good.

I am very into this. Like @aFrInaTi0n I am obsessed with making fast motorcycles and cars from Lego. So far buwizz3 is the only way to power two Buggy motors without home gaming RC gear. But then it is limited by Bluetooth range and lag. Not to mention long charging times and a 200€ bill if you want to be able to swap the cells. If you can make this, it would make buwizz3 obsolete for me.

@Sokolov Edward in the Mercedes, bases are mostly present. This makes sense since Bruno designed the set before the new panels existed. However you mentioned the Katana instructions have been published. It's a more recent set designed around the new panels. The set contains 10 bases and 15 panels, which can't be called 'almost always'.

I must disagree. On the contrary, I believe the new CaDA panels are a boon for vehicle design. The new panels can be used with or without the base, giving more shaping and mounting options particularly at smaller scale and in small detail areas. If used, the base can be applied in its mirror image position, giving more shaping and mounting options. The panels themselves have a more organic shape, allowing more realistic vehicles to be built. Yes, it will take the moment to relearn to design intricate bodies with them, but the tool is sound. Just look at the Mercedes, especially in person, and compare to the usual panels. I really don't see a downside with the new panels. I only would wish for a 2L bar piece as a joiner rather than minimum 3L as CaDA seems to have so far.

I must agree about the "make your bricks move" slogan. The Suzuki Katana has that on the box, yet it doesn't even have optional motorisation. This post was from months ago . The issue has been handled by admin: Bruno is on pause from the forum. Least said, soonest mended. Me three. You have to choose your pain: do you rather accept a less pleasurable building experience, or an uglier model in the Vitrine? For the supercar models I think black pins make most sense, but somehow less important on agricultural and construction sets.

Absolutely correct. Btw, it's about 2x 3*3 T liftarms, a 12t thin bevel gear, a pin hub, a technic bush, and a 2L axle. Really, really common stuff that anybody who ever broke down any set for spares would have available. For that your spares stash gets back a metallic silver brake disc and a few other bits.

As mentioned above, I've built the Suzuki Katana from CaDA. This one was paid for from my affiliate earnings and I have not been asked to post about it, but for transparency's sake and avoidance of doubt I'd probably best also call this a SPONSORED POST. So... It's an interesting build, but not without its faults! First the good - The parts quality is good. Really good. The only complaint I had from the AMG One was the 5L axles with stop had too much friction, but it seems they changed the mould in the meantime. I genuinely couldn't have wished for a single part in the set to have move or less friction than it did have, and there was not a single missing or broken part. The instructions are good. It's different from the AMG One in that previous sections are greyed out, but you get used to that quickly and on a mostly-black build it can actually be quite helpful. The look of the set is great - I am a big fan of the front fairings being made from a "cheat part" like the AMG One aerofoil is, because it's otherwise just not possible to achieve the necessary accuracy for a licensed model. LEGO could certainly learn here, for example the BMW could have really used a new part for the winglets. Then the not-so-good - As a motorcycle afficionado, there are some things about the bike that really bother me: It has a v4 fake engine where it should have an inline 4 But, you couldn't fit a 4 cylinder engine using proper cylinders, and it would be a shame to use a "half-pin engine" method. A V4 "clack-clacks" about the same as an IL4, once it's behind fairings. The fork angle is raked out like an Orange County Chopper But, it needs to be where it is to clear the leaf-spring radiator at the back and the windscreen at the front, and those are cool features I wouldn't want to delete. The tyres have a really nice tread and rubber compound, but the front tyre and rear tyre are the same width so the back one looks like an escapee from a mountain bike (same as 42036). You can't fit a wider tyre due to the swingarm construction. They really should have tried harder here. As a brick-bike builder, I found several faults in the construction which need fixing so the functions can operate properly. All the fixes can be done using probably 50 cent worth of parts, but it's annoying that the kit is supplied with those bugs I've made a bugfix PDF for that: https://bricksafe.com/files/A_morti/cada-suzuki-katana/KatanaFixes.pdf I've also illustrated each fault in the YouTube video below. Overall it was a fun build and will look nice on the shelf (I guess I must remind myself that this is primarily a display model). However I'd have to say that you'd be disappointed if you built it without the bug fixes, because the rear suspension, engine, and gearbox would all be "beinahe gut"*. In case you do want to own this bike, please consider using my affiliate link to make your purchase. You get 5% off, and I get 5% credited to buy more bricks to make more videos :) Affiliate link: https://bit.ly/44IaqZD Please do take a look at my review video. It also shows the interesting CaDA pieces, each bug fix in detail, and my chin in the final thoughts. *In case you don't know German, it's a catchphrase from a German LEGO Youtuber along the lines of "nearly good, but mostly bad".

Do you have any guide as to what extra parts would be required for your "pimped" version? Or even if it's just basic stuff that we all have, or anything CaDA specific that we might be missing?

I've been busy today building the Katana. It's a decent build but with several bugs, one of which was mentioned above with the CaDA bush not giving clearance to a 16 tooth gear. I'll do a video like last time, and post soon. I also have the Citroen rally car waiting for attention.

Nice one , I think I missed this part's launch

Could be the first bike with a good looking fuel tank. How's the top been done?

I can answer that one - yes, it's a part that's already in the AMG One from Bruno. Turns out that it's a really useful one, but I guess primarily it's to avoid a patented part, whether that's the straight pin hub or the 90° pin hub, idk.

Not only are the green ones highly functional, RC, and looking great, but I wonder if TLG ever released a set with as many gears as @effermanmanaged to get in that beast?

@efferman military equipment isn't usually my bag, but man that's a lot of gears. I do enjoy a good technic function, I must say. Hmm... @eric trax in my excitement, I had totally missed that one :D Great to see your line of technical models with system exteriors continuing!

@eric trax, the Cat JCB is finally out of the bag! Also @efferman I see that big grey beast :)

Just in case anyone's been waiting for a nice discount, CADA has 15% off for Black Friday / Cyber Monday, ends 27/11/2023 (I'm not sure which time zone that is related to!) Affiliate link (you get the 15% but can't use my normal code AMorti5% in combination with it): https://bit.ly/44IaqZD Me neither - but you've done a good job there! btw - I have the same set on its way, and will post a video once I built it. As with the AMG I'll do a bugfix video or section at the end of the review, and that fix with the bush is a great tip to share further - I'll be sure to credit you of course :)

Yes, exactly that. The split part isn't impossible to use, but it's easier with the regular part. Same goes for the 5*3 H liftarm and 5*7 frame, but as those click together in the corners they don't lose significant strength, and after a while you get used to them.

Hey Andrea, welcome to EB! It may be my video that you've seen? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SzY7wDIdAc I'd suggest to buy the knob gears from CaDA at the same time as the car: https://decadastore.com/products/cada-bricks-technic-knob-wheel-jh9066 Everything else is working fine without extra pieces. The only remaining risk is that you get incorrect worm gears. It didn't happen to everyone and I don't know if CaDA has fixed that in the existing product, so you could also contact them and ask. If you do get it direct from CaDA, you can use my affiliate link for a small discount: https://bit.ly/44IaqZD You can optionally buy 13x of these 3x3 liftarms. It would make construction a little easier in some places, but it's definitely not a requirement. https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=60484#T=S&C=11&O={%22color%22:%2211%22,%22minqty%22:%2213%22,%22loc%22:%22IT%22,%22iconly%22:0}

It can certainly mean you have less space inside yours for a detailed interior, and perhaps need to be more careful about adding decoration which could fall off in a crash situation. In any case, your philosophy for building this-scale cars is a closer match to what I like, it's why I have the classic German car on my display shelf! I will probably rebuild that soon, with a lower-power L-motor than the CADA Pro! Or maybe even as a static model, not sure yet.

@brickphisto Looking good! It's amazing how you get so many features into these cars, when comparing to those same-size Icons builds.