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amorti

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Everything posted by amorti

  1. @Andman you've come from 2.5-4 to nearly 6, but you're still wrong - one of us read Philo's page wrong (it was you). I'd like to know how you get 1° of camber in Lego on purpose, unless it means 1° of slack either direction from square.
  2. Am I missing something, or does "1° camber" actually mean "I didn't make a strong rear axle"? 56mm tyres * pi for circumference * 1240rpm on a buggy motor at 9v * 20/28 reduction on the differential * 60 minutes in an hour / 1,000,000 mm in a km =9.3km/h With so few parts I'm betting it'll rip.
  3. This is fine until you start really pushing your luck, e.g. ludicrous mode, XL motors straight into uni joints, etc. Here's your solution.
  4. Did you get the planetary hubs already? Speed up the drivetrain, reduce the torque going through it, maybe save a few axles?
  5. Speed is just torque with different gearing. The new box can power buggy motors a little faster than the old box, and can power a pair, which tells you it brings more to the table. Should mean you can have the same torque at higher speed, or even more torque at the same speed. Potentially with the benefit of only carrying one battery instead of two. For me the big advantage is steering by C+ motor. Lego Servos are junk (always have been), the new motors are way better.
  6. I bought this set just to build your alternates - same as I did with the Corvette. It's clear you struggled for pins with the Kingfisher, but it's amazing what you created with the limited parts available, and so unexpected from the base model!
  7. I bought the mini Claas on a whim yesterday. Not a single System brick in there.
  8. Awesome. Wicked turn of speed for something that's twice as big and heavy as a big/heavy MOC.
  9. Welcome back :) Could the tiles ahead of the windshield be 3/3/3 instead of 2/4/1/2? It's triggering my symmetry OCD a bit.
  10. Not sets, but there are full-size models out there without system pieces. Pretty sure this has none at all. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-40950/astyanax/koncept-mantis/#details
  11. Great stuff here. Amazing how fluid it moved. If you want more power for no effort, come over to the dark side. https://www.custombricks.de/motors-cables-sbrick/cada-power-functions-l-motor.html These guys have near double the speed of a Lego L motor, and draw somewhere around double the current. It's not just empty revs neither, the torque is also a lot more.
  12. On the rear axle, is the grey spring a "heave spring"? It seems like if one wheel goes up, it'll force the other down. Isn't that the opposite of an anti-roll bar?
  13. I haven't built that many larger cars, being limited to the 911 RSR and Bruno's red one. The Lego RSR was the first thing - panels lobbed together however it worked out, lots of gaps, and generally flimsy and lame. It put me off large cars completely. Bruno's red one changed my mind.
  14. I can't see an elegant way to do it with Lego. If you had CaDA pieces you could build yourself a 5*5 frame for the bevel box, then with a CaDA metal universal joint straight out the motor into that. it would be 5L 'flip flop' liftarms towards the motor, regular 5L liftarms at the back, and those pin-liftarms at the top and bottom. These things, but as a 3L Liftarm plus 2L of pins. They exist, I just can't find a picture. It would then be two 3*3 'T' Liftarms on either side for the swingarm pivot, attached into the pin holes on the motors. Would work perfectly, within the same dimensions you have now. I think. But with only Lego pieces? Idk... Not easy, at least not without losing ground clearance, and certainly not with elegance like you could do it with CaDA pieces.
  15. Tyres have arrived! I made the forks 1L wider, because otherwise the tyres touch the springs. This one picks itself up really quick from off the floor, it only gets around a quarter turn on the floor, and away it goes. That CaDA motor is honestly a beast. It'll launch itself into the furniture / cat at pretty high speed, which is when the forks fly apart. So I added a fair bit of strength in the fork triples (click for big) It's still not as rigid as the Fast Bike, but that's because the steering neck is just that 5L liftarm, and liftarms flex.
  16. Maybe they realised there's strong competition now, and something needs done...
  17. Nice one! You do seem to have over engineered the front end though. Rather than adding more pieces, you'll get more stability by putting pins in pin holes, and axles in axle holes.
  18. I reckon you'll have to deal with quite a bit of asymmetry on that build to get it balanced! Maybe even look at fixing the servo off-centre to help that, or put a weight brick in the mix? Should work well if you can balance it though, those tyres have a lot of curvature.
  19. @2GodBDGlory I did just try shifting the buwizz half a stud away from the buggy motor's gearing. It really helped the bike run straight at free-pushing speeds, so I'm going to roll with it. As an added benefit, it's going to make it much easier to charge the buwizz while in the model.
  20. 48w gets a little easier once you're doing it at 12v. At that point it's "only" 4 amps. Not quite sure what you're getting at wrt Chinese clones? Buwizz was the first Bluetooth Lego Controller and while there are now several Chinese clone brands offering similar and MouldKing and CaDA boxes both happily give more constant current than a Buwizz 2 (only by my own experience comparing the two, no scientific measurements here and idk about buwizz 3), none of them offer anything brand new as buwizz did. They also all have tiny battery capacity by comparison, and none are supported by brickcontroller2, which is a huge difference because driving models on a touch screen is rubbish. Where it does get interesting is MouldKing's newest crane set comes with an analogue remote control and a box which basically does everything a Buwizz 2 does. That's something new. That same MouldKing set has a battery box with not 4 but 6 pf ports. And each of those has not 4 but 6 terminals on it. I have no idea what the extra two terminals do, but it seems interesting that powered up uses six ports with the additional two used for position sensing.
  21. I think two buggy motors is overkill. You can already get a lot of speed with one, doubling up isn't going to help anything. Especially since PF batteries can't supply nearly enough power to spin two of them.
  22. I think you'll be better off starting with something simple, and light. You can always greeble it up later.
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