amorti

I can live with the fact that some guys aren't interested in bikes, and some guys just won't spend money on instructions, and that's of course your prerogative. Clearly, you're not my target audience, and maybe I need to be more aware that my target audience is quite limited. BTW, I'm not trying to get rich from this, I just want to let the hobby pay its way a little. You talk like 5€ is a lot of money - is it? Honest question, I am an adult with a decent job so my value on money may be out of touch if a large part of RB users are kids or from countries with lower incomes. I completely get that you wouldn't want to see a battery or motor poking out on a 1:8 scale model of a real car, but IMHO, you just have to get over it on this build. It's not possible to put bodywork over the battery, because the battery is already 8 studs wide and needs to slide nearly 2 studs in both directions. At that point, the bike becomes very very wide if you put bodywork outside it. It does rely on the electric parts which aren't cheap (but can be substituted with Chinese parts for a lot less money), but as far as I can tell, nothing else on there is rare except the (not compulsory) tyres? 9v is plenty for these models, so it's definitely an option I could look into using the two-port battery box (which I don't have). The one problem I see with P-up, is that the connectors stick out to the side, making the cables vulnerable. Sure it could be mitigated, but there would be more risk of damage than with the model as presented. However, this type of model is never going to be able to carry the more common 6x AA battery boxes. Looking at the PU components, I think it would be really tough to build. The XL motors are 9 studs long, which is a lot. Even the extra 1 stud of an L motor being an even 8 studs long, makes it pretty annoying to mount across the frame of a bike, as it will tip the balance to one side.

I would want it to pay for itself. Otherwise it feels like one of those diet shake schemes where you have to buy all the stock to get started, but no one's buying from you :D Humbly, this model does blow away the competition, within the admittedly very small field of remote control Lego motorcycles. You'll find the steering neck a challenge, but it is probably possible. It's another reason I don't want to show too many angles

Good point, I have edited the top post here. I like the idea of combining them. Would shrink a bunch of basically identical pics, down to one. My laptop is gonna beg for mercy, but I'll do it :) Seems like a poor value then... Thanks :) You're right that those pieces aren't cheap. You can easily be at 250€ if using Lego/original Buwizz. I guess that's why the reference to Chinese parts. If you use a Chinese battery, servo, and buggy motor, the electrical parts become A LOT cheaper - much more accessible to most people. Maybe I should change that to be clearer that you can use cheap parts, but will RB accept that? Done:

It's not overly criticising, it's a constructive feedback, and I thank you for it :) I mostly wanted the pictures to illustrate that you can do it in a lot of colours, but you are right they could be considered boring. Apart from that my laptop is old and slow, it won't take much effort for me to give some different angles. Are people not more likely to click the 3x videos for action shots, though? Or have I lost readers with the identical pics before they even get that far?

I don't have instagram. I do have a YT channel, but it doesn't have much presence. Piterx's has a bit more, and he's linked the instructions from his video of the bike. I've posted it on a couple of FB groups, maybe I should join some more just to spam them :D IDK about the Designer Plan. I'd probably want it to pay for itself which (at the moment) seems unlikely. Maybe more likely if/when I upload some more bikes on there. Yep, I am often on LPE Power's streams, however not so much since it went to Twitch as the notifications don't seem to work for me, not to mention been busy with this MOC and moving house. He's a top builder and I learn a lot from him.

There's almost nothing rare in mine. I did use some rare tyres, but it states in the description that it works just as well with the same size scrambler tyres, I just like the look better.

Hi all, I'm a novice Rebrickable author. So far I just have this MOC published (with permission of @piterx) : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-83960/A_morti/fast-street-bike-self-balancing-rc-motorcycle/#details I made it a Premium MOC priced at 5€. It's a pretty unique MOC being one of only two self-balancing motorcycles I could find on Rebrickable, and being the only one using a Buggy motor and having rear suspension. It doesn't have a huge piece count, but a lot of work went into it from Piterx and from myself so, in my inexperienced opinion, it's worth a fiver. It was published 06/08/2021, since then it's had ~700 views, 51 likes, 15 followers, and "only" 3 sales. Questions: are those stats normal/good? is the presentation good? is the price right/fair? as a Rebrickable user, what would prevent you from wanting to build/buy this MOC? Appreciate any tips, particularly from the more experienced MOCers on here

Now I follow. Even if the CaDA motors have more power overall (I still believe they have), you can't gear down in this model, so it's no use.

Are we both talking about the CaDA Pro motor, the square/boxy shaped one? Sorry, but I don't see that it can have less torque than the Lego motor. Two of them can pull Brunojj1's Ferrari with 3236 Parts at a respectable speed, including spinning up the tyres. You just can't do that with two Lego L-motors. Also, you have to make it fair. If the CaDA motor spins at twice the speed of a Lego motor, you need to gear it down half to test their torque. They are power-hungry. If you tested them on a power source that couldn't give enough power, they would likely show weaker.

This is just by my experience of fixing servos, which I've done way too many times at this point. You can't get them open without scraping away some of the latching plastic. Usually the latch on at least one side breaks. Once you're at that point, the motor will work again, but you can't use it structurally anymore. For example in Madocca's PF Buggy the front end relies a lot on the strength of the servo, and if you crash it'll be fine, but after rebuilding the servo, it'll ping that apart. L motors may open easier - IDK, never tried.

Yep! I'd be amazed if the motor windings have melted, but it could happen. That should be visible if yes, as it would have discoloured the copper. Most likely, the thermal fuse has just had enough. The only quick and dirty test I can think of is to CAREFULLY bridge the two sides. Don't short them to the body of the motor! If it then works, you know where the fault was. https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/531136/do-thermal-cutoff-fuses-wear-out-if-used-below-rated-temperature

This wasn't the first one ever, but it's the first one I knew about. I was amazed when I saw this video. In the description @Green Gecko gives his source for some of the ideas, which indeed there are some YouTube videos available. It does have some compromises that the bike in this thread doesn't: no rear suspension, steering by separate weight brick, steering neck by part 2904 which is quite wobbly. Green Gecko claims 25-30 km/h top speed. Using the no-load numbers from Philo's bible, an M motor gets 405rpm at 9v so 504 at 11.2v, it's geared 3x faster for 1,512rpm at the 100.6mm tyre = 28.7km/h, so the claim seems realistic. This bike should get 1240 * 11.2/9 = 1543rpm straight to the 81.6mm tyre = 23.7 km/h. However I think as you get near the top speed, especially if you're not driving on a billiard table, GG's bike is going to get twitchy due to the looseness in the steering and no rear suspension. It would be quite interesting to race them.

So, given this, there's two possibilities. Neither of them involves a broken wire. If you can't turn it easily by hand, then the planetary gears are damaged. If it's the gears, you can take it apart and look for dirt, damage, or misalignment. If you can turn it easily by hand, then the thermal fuse has given up, and is triggering at very low heat. If it's the fuse, you can take it apart and either bridge it for zero protection, or replace the fuse with a new one. Either way, it'll never be as strong after you open the clips, as usually you need to scrape them a bit flatter to get it open. So probably time to put it in the bin, however an autopsy would be interesting.

Does it totally not react, or it shudders then is blocked? If blocked, some dirt got into the planetary gears and made them stop. Make double sure it's not the power source, by plugging in other motors to that output. After that: Cable or solder joint has a break, thermal fuse gave out, copper windings on the motor burnt. In about that order of likeliness. I don't see the metal copper windings melting, the power here is too low and the fuse should catch long before that. But, it's still possible.

With many thanks to Christoph, here is some AWESOME on-board footage. Yes his version has been made using non-Lego parts and a MouldKing 7.2v battery, please see past that. He also modified it (by filing some plastic off the buggy motor!) to use 94mm tyres and used metal for the tip-over protection, which sometimes is too rigid and digs in.

With @piterx's kind permission, I have published this on Rebrickable. We're both excited to hear feedback from anyone who builds it https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-83960/A_morti/fast-street-bike-self-balancing-rc-motorcycle/#details

Even if the extra gears add a bunch of friction, the subtractor mechanism is a cool way to do it mechanically, and I really like the MOC. But, if he had a Buwizz, all this could be done via software using the tracked vehicle module. Not as interesting in terms of gears and mechanical principles, but lighter and much less friction...

I picked this model up again yesterday and, well, a project is never really finished, right? Although, maybe barring colour choices, I think this one is now. I improved the chassis further by moving the servo one stud forwards and mounting the swing arm one stud further forwards. Benefits: The servo is hung from the frame only on pins not axles, so it's stiffer The swing arm in turn is hung from the servo, so it's stiffer. In a theoretical way, a longer swing arm within the same wheelbase should also mean more stability. Deducted a couple of parts and the remaining part are smaller=lighter. Does mean you can't use the long panels on the belly pan any more, but I don't mind it. Allowed a simplification of the support for the rear of the buwizz I also figured out to put studs on the fuel tank using a half-pin with bar. It's a little more secure, plus now you could add a 1x1 round tile here and brand your bike if you wanted. Here is a render of mine just as it sits: And in red: As it sits there are 221 pieces including the two dummy PF plugs. A Buwizz costs 130€, servos now cost 70€+ from an EU seller, and RC motors 45€+ ( maybe they got cheaper because of the Buwizz motor or other Chinese equivalents?) so you're at some 250€ for the electrical parts, but other than that only the tyres are rare, and you can also use the 81.6mm scrambler tyres and according to renders it looks 100% fine. Just in case anyone is thinking about building it in another colour, the red parts are also all available in yellow, orange, black, white, DBG, and lime. Maybe good to know for any Kawasaki fans out there! Thanks again to @piterx, and always happy to hear suggestions or criticisms from the community. PS: Would anyone be interested in instructions for this? I never made any before, but it's a modest part count and I have it in Stud.io, so I could have a go.

Looks great, and that's a lot of functionality for something so small. I guess you also like mighty car mods? They have a pickup kei car in their fleet of modified cars and it looks good fun.

Darkicedesign joints are annoying because the little screws get loose. I suggest adding loctite. Freakware offers CaDA metal joints, they're the best available. Darkicedesign does metal axles which would work well. I have a couple carbon axles in Chinese sets, I don't know a European supplier of them as loose parts I only saw them on Ali.

You'll definitely want to strengthen a few things, metal universal joints will be essential in the front and probably carbon axles in the rear swing arms too, unless you drive it carefully with no hard starts and stops. I'll look forward to a video

I do mean this :) Well, I suppose more precisely I mean it draws more current. I don't know if it's the same thing. And it's fine, I don't feel attacked, honestly. I just try to speak in plain words on this forum, where I know a lot of users aren't native English speakers, that's all. Custombricks.de keeps the CaDA motor in stock for 13,99€. Why not order yourself one, build a simple chassis, and see what it will manage with each motor? Both for speed, and either a scientific torque test if you have the equipment and interest, or a simple ramp climbing test. I believe you'll be surprised. And I believe you'll buy more CaDA motors!

I know it simply because I have all of those available and have tested them side by side. In the order stated, the motors have both more torque and more rpm. The cost of course, is that they pull more amps. I know this because if how easy it is to trip a Buwizz safety fuse with two of each of the motors attached. With Lego L motors you can easily run two in ludicrous mode, with mouldking you're ok in normal but will often trip the fuse in fast, and with CaDA you can only use normal, but even then it's still fastest and most powerful. You don't get something for nothing! But yes, there are several tests out there. Most scientific is probably this: https://youtu.be/oGr4t4ouys8

Are the old style panels on the front end admissible for the challenge?

I really like this, the more so because I had this one as a child. Proportions are great. The mudguard and skirt panels are spot on, yet it really retains the feel of the original. I really like how you've used the new gear off the differential as a clutch gear. Very clever. Would have liked to see some bevel frames, not that they'll be necessary but on general principle, as they're part of modern building. Can you use an 8L axle with stop down to the steering pivot? The half bush at the top feels like it could ping off. I don't love the white soft axles, but I guess it's a 7L and there's no white axles that length. Imagine it in the standard/modern colour of yellow