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astyanax

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Everything posted by astyanax

  1. astyanax
    @howitzer Sorry for not mentioning your creation as "one of my favorites"! I hope we can still be friends...
  2. astyanax
    Not that anyone asked me, but... I love using those transparent bent liftarms... Tacky like the rest of my tastes!
  3. astyanax
    Yes I remember too, and it was the same discussion with the Porsche fenders, but we've seen many examples of alternative usages already. Here's one of my favorites: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-11816/Charbel/the-mean-machine/
  4. astyanax
    I like it! Definitely recognizable. The colors are certainly loud, but why not. We don't all have to be building at the level of Jeroen Ottens. This is already way better than what I could build from scratch.
  5. astyanax
    Indeed I omitted to look in other forums (fora?), and agree this thread is not the place to discuss the ensuing "drama" or possible fixes. Still I believe it is right to catalogue here a perfect instance -- in an official Lego set -- of the issue that started this very thread.
  6. astyanax
    Apparently the new AT-AT (75313) will be impossible to disassemble completely, due to a classic Technic frame mistake like in the original post. See analysis here: https://brickset.com/article/67650/lego-is-now-designing-sets-that-can-t-be-taken-apart
  7. astyanax
    Indeed! I was surprised to find 2 of them when building the big Batmobile. First time I got new ones since the Battrax in 1987...
  8. astyanax
    Happy to join the chorus and say congratulations! Besides the excellent content, I think your voice is very soothing as well. You could start another channel narrating paint drying and still get tons of subscribers!
  9. astyanax
    https://rebrickable.com/sets/75313-1/at-at/#parts A bunch of parts got re-colored to dark/light bluish gray, including 11L flip-flop beams.
  10. astyanax
    Maybe try instead a 1x1 round plate with open stud?
  11. astyanax
    My original idea for the rear wheel arches wasn't good enough in reality. After letting it simmer for a week I had another go and now I'm satisfied. The #13 panel between the door and the rear wheel had to go. It was sticking outward too high, making it impossible to create a smooth continuous line from the door to the wheel arch. My solution is to put a small #2 panel at a half-module offset; now the flow is good: As you can see here, the long #5 panel in the door collides with the new construction, making the door close not so well. However, I was able to bring that #5 panel forward very slightly -- all solved. All in all, the rear wheel arch was quite tricky, as there are half-module offsets all over the place to make it look right. Consequently, the part count increased by almost 100... The root problem, I think, is that the new 'mudguard' (71689) does not taper inward at the bottom, so to simulate such tapering, it has to be placed at half-module offset. Grmpf. I've updated the Rebrickable entry; check it out if you want to see how it's constructed! https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-89859/astyanax/pimp-my-pista-ferrari-488-pista-by-brunojj1/ That's it from me. Over and out. I'm really taking her apart now.
  12. astyanax
    But according to https://buwizz.com/store/ you do get a whopping 38'880 parts for that sum! The included BuWizz electronics themselves add up to €1285 when bought individually from their store. I guess it could cost you around €2000 for plastic and electronics together. I don't think €5000 is 'nuts'. From a branding perspective, that is. You have to see this as a brand posting a big flag. Everything about it must make you go "oomph!". Looks, specs, performance, price, everything.
  13. astyanax

    Technic Clones

    astyanax replied to Asher's topic in Community

    Yeah according to site rules (which I don't make up nor enforce) this thread belongs in https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/forum/7-community/ or on a different host altogether. This Mork product rips off both the model and the brick ecosystem. It's a package of zero creativity, only sadness.
  14. astyanax
    @Maaboo35 Looking great! I'm very happy to have been able to get one second hand at reasonable price like 2 years ago. I didn't have the time to assemble it so I gave the parts to a friend who was just waking up to become an AFOL. A little while later, I got back the model, neatly assembled and functioning perfectly, but my friend was looking sad... Turns out, his wife had confiscated the parts and instruction book and built it all by herself.....
  15. astyanax
    I know I know.... In fact I was already pillaging the model -- there's a reason I took the photo from that angle and in the dark! Never! Whenever there are collisions that I can't resolve 'in system', I at least make sure that one of the colliders is mounted on a rubber axle connector (45590) to gracefully move out of the way! In this case, the upper headlights (with the 8 trans-clear bits) are on rubber. Yeah I know this is a controversial technique around here... But in this case I think it's okay because the flex axle is bent only slightly, so no hideous gaps appear between the 1L beams.
  16. astyanax
    From the video I understand it's because the real car is a V10...
  17. astyanax
    No worries, it's firmly held. If and when I finish verifying and tweaking the rear wheel arches, I'll share the virtual model so y'all can see.
  18. astyanax
    So is the virtual model a GWP with an order of 10 BuWizz motors and 5 BuWizz 3.0 Pro bricks?
  19. astyanax
    What's that silence? Oh, it's everyone watching a friggin' one-hour movie! Seriously though, this was my exact first reaction: "DUDE WTF?!" Okay I'm still processing this, I'll return after putting back together the blown-out pieces of my mind...
  20. astyanax
    Yeah I was wondering about that: why didn't they do it? It took me just a few evenings of tinkering in LDCad, then 1 evening to verify and tweak in reality (okay I need another evening to implement the rear arches). And I'm no genius, nor particularly experienced: I only started building 1:8 supercars since 1 year ago and have never designed one from scratch myself... So what gives?
  21. astyanax
    Yup. There are no parts in places where there weren't any before. Like in the original design, margins are null. I implemented the wheel arch on the front left last night, all great!
  22. astyanax
    So I never made the effort to experiment with the wheel arches from set 42125, because I just didn't see the case for it: the original solution with flex axles looked great to me already. (And I do love my flex axles -- massive 8448 fanboy here! ) But a week ago, something triggered me..... I happened upon some renderings of a model sold by some Chinese brand (not CaDA) that's obviously a rip-off of yours... BUT, they slapped on wheel arch panels. Intrigued, I took a closer look, but soon this turned to disappointment, not to say disgust, when I realized they got it all wrong! The root problem seems to be that they used the Sian arches (in red) which are unnecessarily long and where causing undue collisions with other bodywork, which they solved simply by straightening and rotating away surrounding bodywork, thereby losing essential lines of the real car. But then I couldn't resist checking whether the 13L wheel arches (part 69911) would indeed look more appropriate. And so here we are... More large renders: https://bricksafe.com/pages/astyanax/ferrari488pista-arches I only changed the driver's side, so you can compare. Especially in the front I think there has been improvement, as I was also able to bring the #14 panel (highlighted in the front view pic) slightly further inwards, such that it doesn't stick out further than the front wheel. Thoughts?! (Yes I struggled in some corners... so bring it on! )
  23. astyanax
    Oh wow I never knew the Unimog was so tall!
  24. astyanax
  25. astyanax
    Please note that the front-outer ports on both BuWizz 2.0 must remain free, otherwise the hood won't close. That is, in the virtual model, port 1 on the passenger's side and port 2 on the driver's side can't be used. Depending on your PF connector placement strategy, you may or may not have another 2 ports free. I put each of the 4 PF L motors on a separate port, so with the 2 servos I'm using all 6 allowed ports already. If you make L motors share ports, you may run the risk of triggering overload protection a bit faster. YMMV. When I find the time, I may update the virtual model with color-coded PF connectors to show (what I think is) the optimal placement strategy. But I'm definitely too lazy to draw in all the cable paths...
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