astyanax

Had noticed that too. But it might just be an illusion, that they're actually LBG. I'm not gonna draw conclusions till I see the inventory...

Indeed, this mule uses an abundance of bracing. Sorry for filming in the dark, but this video proves that no clicking ever occurs. It also proves that the gearbox is meaningful, as you can see it struggle to start from standstill in high gear. At full weight (3kg), it's very prone to cut power when starting from standstill in 4th gear. Exactly as it should be. Still, no clicking!

Indeed! Here's a nice video showing how well it handles with 4x PF L motors. At some point, I may have to film a drag race of an out-of-the-box model versus a buggy-motor-enhanced model.....

Happy to report positive progress! My previous writing may have been unclear: the clicking and suiciding happened with a previous version (not the mule pictured), which was following more closely the way the gearbox was connected in the CaDA model, and using the original diff. Apparently the original setup was unable to handle the force of the 2 buggy motors, and may have had undue friction causing some overload. While waiting for the replacement motor, I built the pictured mule, encasing the gearbox in 7x11 frames and replacing the diff by the new 5-gear one. This mule weighs almost 1kg including electronics. My (disassembled) build of the Ferrari with 4 PF L motors and 2 BuWizz 2.0 weighed almost 3kg. So when the replacement motor arrived yesterday, I made a few more test runs... Test run 2.1: Just the 1kg mule, 1st gear... All fine! No clicking. Phew. Because I didn't implement remote-controlled shifting, I have to start from stand-still each time. Dare I start from higher gears...? Test run 2.2: Just the 1kg mule, 2nd gear... No clicking. 3rd gear... No clicking. 4th gear... LAUNCH! Wow that was fast -- no hesitation, no clicking -- it just flies away! Test run 2.3: Added 1kg of rice on top of the mule. Start in 1st gear... No clicking. Start in 2nd gear... No clicking. Start in 3rd gear... No clicking. Start in 4th gear... still no clicking -- still just flies off! Test run 2.4: Added another 1kg of rice on top of the mule, now at 3kg total. Start in 1st gear... No clicking! Well that's the benchmark passed. The idea is, of course, that the model should be able to start in 1st gear, and then while driving one should shift up. If one were able to start in highest gear, what's the point of having a (remote-controlled) gearbox?! Still, of course, I wanna know how far this can be pushed... What are our margins? Just fingers crossed we don't break any more motors..! Test run 2.5: With the 3kg mule as pictured. Start in 2nd gear... The motors hesitate for a moment, as if power was cut for a split second, but then accelerates again. No clicking. Start in 3rd gear... Again the hesitation, but overcomes it. No clicking. Start in 4th gear... Power cuts. Again... Power cuts. PERFECT! Okay so at full weight, we can start in 1st gear but not in 4th gear, giving purpose to the gearbox. I'll make a video, don't worry. It's quite funny seeing packs of rice propelling through the man-cave.... === Oh, one caveat: The mule is built from Lego parts. Any idea we might expect CaDA gears and driving rings to have equal strength?

Is the ramp option also supposed to work on BuWizz 2.0? Because setting a ramp to any positive amount of seconds has absolutely no effect on any of my BuWizz 2.0 -- I always get full power immediately.

(credit to @Sariel for this 2-speed gearbox idea; may his EB account rest in piece)

Getting rid of the gearbox would of course be a pity! But the question remains, whether plastic gearbox components can ever handle the force of 2 buggy motors in a 3kg model... Without gearbox, the best arrangement, I think, is one that gets rid of all gears altogether, even the diff: The above is a render of the drivetrain of a 2600-part supercar which I'll soon present in a separate thread. The point is: the only way to be 100% assured of robustness is to only use the heavy-duty CV joints and nothing else. But, for the Ferrari, I'm not that desperate yet... If that makes things easier (maybe not), the ratio can be effectively increased, like so: Caveat: the driving ring must be held very, very firmly in place to avoid skipping and clicking.

Well, what can I say... I'm not very good at resisting a challenge! First question: do buggy motors fit in the Ferrari? Let's find out... Ah yes they do! Right behind the wall behind the seats, there's enough space, such that the bulky part of the motors won't collide with rear wheels or bodywork. Did Bruno foresee their usage?! The buggy motors' outer outputs can be aligned with the two powered axles going into the gearbox. The gearbox has to be moved a few studs toward the rear, no problem there. The gearbox can be encased in 7x11 frames for extra sturdiness. The fake engine can be driven separately from one of the motors' inner output, via a worm wheel to the 24-tooth gear. I've created a simple yet strong mule with the same wheelbase as the Ferrari, for testing purposes (and color vomit as dazzle camouflage hehe!). No steering or suspension; it's just for testing the drivetrain while retaining easy access to internals. Weight can be added on top to simulate the final model. Test run 1: Wow that's fast!! But also some clicking... need to investigate. Test run 2: Crack! Oops... one of the buggy motors suicided! Okay so this will be continued as soon as the replacement motor comes in the mail. Many thanks to both Bruno and CaDA for supporting and assisting!

It's the panels making up the doors that are ridiculously expensive on BL. They could be replaced by the version with more pinholes. (Or get a handful from ali....)

Can we have the set name in the thread title please? :)

@Aleh have you tried looking through Rebrickable's own forum to see if this question was already addressed?

I could go all cynical and claim you're still secretly seeking attention & validation by posting on this forum, but I won't because actually I agree with your attitude. Greetings from Svizzera!

So after this time, are the #5/6 panels staying bent in this position when you take out the half-pins?

Set 42082, in the superstructure, used a bush and a white rubber band to add a little bit of friction to an axle. Have a look in the instructions :)

PaB putting a delay on offering new moulds / recolors is cynical beyond comprehension! (trying hard not to use any expletives here...)

I suspect the same. Even wrote it here: The reality is: with great consumer base, comes great volume of help center calls... Here's an interesting interview explaining the predicament, featuring an example from Technic building instructions: https://www.newelementary.com/2020/09/missing-faulty-lego-consumer-perceived-quality.html

This thread is so painfully hilarious

I feel addressed, but not offended. Keep in mind there are also AFOLs, like yours truly, who just have lots of Lego bricks already, who regularly and happily disassemble their models, and actually enjoy the challenge of using just their inventory to put together something new, no matter where the design comes from. From that perspective, I find it somewhat convenient that Lego's palette of Technic bricks is more limited (than System), because it keeps my inventory more manageable and reusable (more parts get more usage more often). Therefore I'm also somewhat hesitant to welcome a divergence of part palette between Lego and CaDA... Call me conservative if you want... I've barely even recovered from the shock of transitioning to studless...

Does anyone have experience with these old "soft" hoses like https://rebrickable.com/parts/upn0144c12/hose-soft-3mm-d-12l/? How soft are they? Like flex axles, or like rubber pneumatic tubes, or...?

Is that some Chinabrick version? Anyway it looks way smaller than set 42125...

I'm a simple man. I see 40-tooth gears in the colors of the Italian flag, I like.

@amorti thanks, that's helpful to know!

Given that one has these batteries and wants to charge them, what are best practices to apply "abundance of caution"? I'm already only charging any batteries outside (fortunately the local climate allows this year-round), away from other flammables. Is there also something to pay attention to regarding charger or power source (other than using the supplied cable)?

The frictionless 3L axle-pin, recently introduced in white, will also appear in LBG now: (in the new Vespa set)

+100 points for being able to lift it by the roof