Jump to content

Gray Gear

Eurobricks Counts
  • Posts

    1,714
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Gray Gear

  1. Makes sense, I don't even know if what you are doing here is breking some copyright or whatever law (in theory). Rebrickable just wants to stay out of trouble.
  2. @agrof I agree. The pictures arn't fake. It'll be 42070 all over again, and even the chinese realized there was no point in copying it
  3. It's a original looking ride, and the colorsceme looks good. I like the engine idea. But some of the building techniques, especially the way the rear swingarm is constructed, is what I would call "questionable". Did you build this irl too?
  4. Looking good! How many of those ladder pieces did you order?
  5. Well if he does, he'll show us how good the LEGO set could have been, and kick the official set's a$$ in comparison Keep it up, I like watching your progress
  6. I wouldn't call this an Adventador, sorry. You made too many changes, the car is not recognizable at all. But wouldn't say it's a bad MOC! I like the fitment, the Wheels fill the wheel arches completely, and that looks very nice. Do the tires rub on the fenders while driving/steering?
  7. @AussieBrett @syclone Thank you for your nice words I will try, but sadly there are not many 1:8 wheels available, and even less that fit JDM cars... For now the RX-7 needs new wheels most urgently I think. The porsche wheels look fine in person, but you can see on the pic what happens when you photograph black wheels No stickers on my MOCs, period. I just love the color, this kind of blue was always my favorite ever since I was a kid, but this car does not try to be the calsonic racecar. Wrong Turbo system, wrong exhaust, wrong wheels. I bought all the blue bricks needed in one batch from GoBricks, a chinese Brick manufacturer that has pretty good quality. It is like Bricklink, but the only seller is the manufacturer. Mould King and some other Brands also use GoBricks pieces. I paid ~85EUR for ~1500 pieces needed. Admittedly a lot of them were pins or other small bricks. If there is intrest I might make a YT tutorial how to order from GoBricks, as the process isn't exactly simple to explain.
  8. @Aleh A "Dark Age" is a time where you didn't do LEGO stuff. For most it beginns in their teens when LEGO is no longer cool, and ends somwhere between 30-50 when you get back into the hobby.
  9. @Scoar Sonander Thanks for your reply, I am glad you like it Please don't quote entire posts & pictures, just quote what you need or "@" the author. Please edit your post to not offend anyone
  10. I have "repainted" my Nissan GT-R MOC to the iconic "Calsonic Blue", as a nod to the legendary Calsonic JTCC racecar. I also made a video showing the rebuild of the car, sped into 5 minutes And a JDM squad picture I had a lot of fun making this, and I hope you like it too! Best regards, Gray Gear
  11. If there Is 2x XL motor for drive and 1 L motor for steering, there is still 1 motor port left. They should at least use it for something simple like a tipper bed or something...
  12. Using a 2nd motor would make the entire gearbox irrelevant... While I do think it is an intresting build I also think that it is pretty impractical. But the experience gained might come in useful in other projects
  13. While I do think removing the gearbox is a big loss I can understand why you did it. The scale is rather small.
  14. Nice model! And the metal hook is here too I really like the way the rear axle is connected to the drivetrain, and that the outriggers can really lift the model. Lacking power is a problem, but at least it still seems to move okay on flat surfaces. Thx for sharing
  15. People lying about missing pieces are pirates, I agree. Running the Brick replacement service must be a nightmare. But these bricks are low-quality, and for the asking price every brick should be perfect. And a misaligned axle hole isn't a minor issue, its a functional problem that can make all the difference if the axle hole is the only mounting point. I myself wouldn't hesitate to ask for replacements until I have the ordered number of bricks with straight axle holes. And I really had to cringe reading this... The Mustang print explanation was just If you have to explicitly tell the printing staff to print a middle line in the middle because the lines on other bricks will have to line up, you have a problem. It means they normally don't care if the line is off-center. The line should just be in the middle to begin with, so doesn't matter if other pieces will have to align or not. It'll just work. LEGO is either just going cheap with the prints, or they really don't know any better. But COBI has shown that way better print quality is possible, and printing light on dark is not as hard as LEGO makes it out to be.
  16. What the hell the replacements look even worse imo But it is such a useful brick Iwill have to buy some eventually too
  17. This might be a dumb question... I know the 49283 Cable Clip has been made for the new Control plus system. But does it work with the PF cables too? Is there a difference between the PF and C+ cables (apart from the different connectors)?
  18. Somebody put his signature on the 42070 as well... So I don't know about that. But something must be wrong, I agree. The price and piece cound just don't match the model.
  19. I really like the door locks. Cool mechanism! Btw what's the point of the rubber connectors used in the rear wheel arches? Why not just use a 2L liftarm with axle hole?
  20. Also, why not DM the author? No need to revive an old thread for this...
  21. That would be 15 cents per piece.... You all better hope that isn't true. I am very happy that I don't rely on LEGO to supply my bricks, otherwhise I wouldn't be able to financially support this hobby
  22. @syclone Yeah I thought about going with the older style Taillights as well, that might solve my problems. @Bartybum They are supposed to be trans-red, I just dont have them (yet?) in that color @Touc4nx The 36t gear is there to connect the HoG steering. That's not there yet
  23. I spent the last 2 hours making these LDCad Models, I hope it was worth it! I will try to explain how the 4 wheel steering system and Transmission work. Here we go! First of all this is the front steering. The tan pins are fixed to the cassis, so the direction of the gear rack is getting reversed by the gray levers. This was necessary due to the placement of the eingine's crankshaft. This is the complete 4 wheel steering setup. Main feature here is that the 4 wheel steering can be switched off by moving the red and yellow assembly 1 stud forwards, like this: The yellow axle is now disengaged from the front steering, and is getting locked in place by the black pin in the middle. Now to the Transmission: Brown: 1st+2nd gear. Orange: 3rd+4th gear. Pink: 5th+6th gear. Gray: Drive axle to the engine. To move the transmission's clutch rings there have to be some shifting liks that connect the shift lever to the transmission. The purple piece is what I call my "Safeshift System". It can slide left&right on the black axle, following the movements of the shift lever. It's purpose is to lock the gears that are not in use in place. The two links left and right were easy, like this: But there was no space left for the middle link, because of the yellow 4 wheel steering axle. So I had to get creative: If I can't go under the shift lever, I'll just go above! This is the entire setup, Transmission and 4 wheel steering system. It is all very cramped in the 7 studs wide center tunnel, but everything works very smooth. I hope this wasn't too boring and you could understand what I was trying to explain. If you have any questions, feel free to ask :) Best regards, Gray Gear
  24. Hi everybody, its been a while. Here's my progress: Mostly Bodywork progress, but some panels are not yet fixed in place. I think I finally managed to get a good line over the rear wheels by slightly tilting the wheel arch outwards. This is my current version of the taillights, but I am not really satisfied. The shape is kind of hard to do with these 2 circles, and I don't really like the small radar dishes sticking out. Biggest change on the inside is the reworked 4 wheel steering. The wheels now turn in the opposite direction, because while the slight crab steering I had before was fun to make, it wasn't fun to play with. A decreased turning radius is much more fun! I'll update you soon with an LDCad picture of the insides
  25. Boi I think it would be best if you would explain using some pictures or sketches. I dont know about the others here, but I myself have no clue what you are trying to do
×
×
  • Create New...