Nazgarot

Hi, I've started a test of using "Plasti Dip" to increase traction on tread links. I got this idea while reading this thread; "Solving grip problem with Link Treads" I normally use "Plasti Dip" for waterproofing RC equipment and electronics, but have heard of lots of other uses as well. Its a rubber solution that can be painted on almost any surface and creates a thin rubber film when it's applied. It sticks very well and is possible to remove by making a small cut and dragging it off whatever material it's applied to. I built this small MOC to test it, and spray painted one of its tracks with a thin layer of Plasti Dip (from spray can). It can be applied in several layers (half hour between each application), but I wanted to try a single layer first. I bent the track backwards so that there was no space between the links and sprayed it on. It has to dry for 4 hours before I can test it, but I will update this thread when it's dry. Full size pic: http://postimg.org/image/p1wtat57n/ I made a small preliminary test to see how bad the untreated tracks are, and they are pretty awful... I will update the thread as the test goes along, but I would be interested in suggestions for doing a more scientific test of traction, I was thinking of making a small sled to drag behind with some weight on. Any suggestions will be considered. Update: The tread is dry! It's hard to see a difference, but you can see that one track is less shiny, and its easy to feel the difference. Link to full size pic: http://postimg.org/image/lwl9q8ybt/ Video of test with one coated track: In this picture every second tread link on each track is coated. You can clearly see stuff sticking to the coated links. Link to full size pic: http://postimg.org/image/k628orgsp/ Video of test with every second link coated: Conclusion: Plasti Dip works!! And you can easily adjust the level of traction by swapping out every second, every third and so on... Remember, this is with only a single layer coat. It is possible to use several layers! I will upload a video of how I coated them, and a test with all links on both tracks coated when I have time. -ED-

I suggest making the fourth function winches for reducing the ground clearance (lowering center of gravity) like you find on some real crawlers and some monster trucks. It would also be realistic with independent front and rear steering. Monster trucks often has a 3 position rear steering and a progressive front steering. -ED- A geared down buggy motor would solve you drive motor needs...

Hi, I suggest coating the tracks with Plastidip. Its a kind of paintable rubber. I use it to waterproof electronics, and even have a friend who painted his Nisan Patrol with the stuff to prevent scratches while driving off road... I will try it and give you some feedback when I can find the time. -ED-

The elements we have been requesting for a while now is: Buggy motor replacement for PF XS motor - Micro motor replacement for PF Better remote, and maybe something not IR based, but Sbrick already solved that... And, of course, PF pneumatic valve... If you have any contacts (ref other discussion), please help promote the PF valve, and a new "buggy" motor. (Longer pneumatic cylinders have also been a wish for some time...) -ED-

I would suggest a custom diff if you have the necessary space... Have a look at my heavy duty diff. This can handle any torque generated by lany number of Lego motors... -ED-

There are lots of areas where a XS or S motor could be useful. One of the first that comes to mind is controlling Pneumatic valves. If they could launch a redesigned valve, with a axle whole and return to center, at the same time I would be in heaven. Using M motor to control valves are just a huge waste of space... I would love to see a large pneumatic Road Grader with PF control of the valves (Through a S or XS motor) and longer pneumatic cylinders. THAT would be a FLAGSHIP! -ED-

9 : 10 45 : 6 21 : 4 15 : 3 30 : 2 40 : 1

Hi, You don't upload the pictures here. Use another service like postimage, brickshelf or similar to upload the image and make a link or a hardlink here. There are other posts that describes this in detail. I guess a moderator or someone more familiar with the site will come by soon to give you a link... -ED- EDIT: Seems Blackbird beet me to the punch...

There is one exception to needing a center diff on 4x4 vehicles, and that is if they have synchronized 4 wheel steering. If they have, the front and rear wheels are following the same radius in turns, and thus there is no need for a center diff. This is the case in 9398, but it's not comparable as it has individually powered axles. -ED-

Cant wait to see how this shapes up. Nice work so far. I would love to see your front hubs. Any chance of an image without the wheels? (The rear suspension from below would also be great!) -ED-

10 : 10 9 : 6 2 : 4 5 : 3 1 : 2 8 : 1

Really interesting front axle. I have to try it. Thanks for showing! -ED-

AMAZING! This must be one of the most original models I've ever seen. And the execution of it is really high class! -ED- PS: Where did you get those red wheels?

I would recommend these: http://store.rc4wd.com/Rock-Crusher-XT-19-Tires_p_691.html Dimensions: Outer Diameter: 4.25" (107mm) Width: 1.53" (38.9mm) Inner Diameter: 1.9" (48mm) I've been using them a bit, and they fit very snugly on Lego rims. I think both size and design should be a close match. Will try to upload a few pics of them tomorrow. On Lego rims they get a bit more "balloony", so they should be even more similar. I can also recommend their little brother for this rim (43.2mm D. x 26mm Technic Racing Small). -ED- EDIT: Ops, didn't read the second page. The once that have original pattern will of course fit better.

The springs do not add torque. They store it. When the wheels get stuck the spring is compressed (motor stores force in the spring), and both the force of the motor and the added force from the spring is supplied to the wheels.This gives the wheels gradually more torque when they become stuck til the point where the spring is fully compressed. At that time the force (torque) applied to the wheels is the maximum force of the spring + the motors torque. This is actually a good way to momentary increase force to free stuck wheels. On the other hand I've never had problems with the power applied to the wheels being to low... More like the gears not being able to handle the torque when the wheels get stuck. -ED-

Surprisingly strong. Very nice concept and model! -ED-

I've made a proof of concept of a half track using a subtractor for turning (the tracks) as well as a servo for the steering. It works, but requires that the main drive is locked to a single speed. The servo and the M-motor controling the subtractor is driven of the same channel, making the delta in speed correspond with the turning angle of the wheels. This is only possible to achieve at a given speed, but gives the model very smooth turning. In a model of that size you could easily fit it, even using stronger custom diffs. I've also planed to use this to make a rally car (if i can ever get my hands on a buggy motor) with vectored rear drive and a torsen center differential. It will not have the option of loosing grip... =] If you want to see the concept and exchange ideas, please send me a PM. I don't want to publish it just yet as I have some more R&D to do before I base a model of it. But eventually it will either hit brickshelf or be posted here, based on how successful I am... -ED-

I love it. Great solutions to save width, and nice out of the box thinking! -ED-

I have a custom 6 bevel diff that might help you with power handling in a subtractor, but it requires some room as it's based of a turntable, and a bit tricky to put together. For more pics have a look in my brickshelf (not very up to date as I've stared using dropbox to backup my creations, but the diff is there). Have a look at the strong diff v2 pics. -ED-

WOW! Would love to have one on my office desk... Do you have any idea of the parts cost? I have lots of Technic, but not much "standard Lego"... But I would like to build something like this. -ED-

The IR speed remote works great as long as you use an subtractor for stearing. It's very hard making to motors run at the same speed without linking them in some way (and linking them is not an option in a tracked setup), and it's very hard to control a tracked vehicle using the IR speed remote to control one track with each channel. The IR speed remote can be glitchy at the best of times, but using a subtractor it doesn't mater. It all depends on how realistic you want to make the model. Using a subtractor is not very realistic as it wont be breaking a track to turn, but slow one down and speed up the other. But if you want very good control of the MOC a subtractor is far superior to any other setup. At the same time, using two XL motors you can gear it to have a decent top speed as well (I suggest a gearing of 3:1 using 36 and 12 tooth gears for setup with two XL, and subtractor with M motor for stearing. But you may be limited by available space...). -ED-

The link doesn't work for me either... -ED-

Fantastic! Amazing level of details, and a unparalleled level of realism! -ED-

Amazing details! Love it! -ED-

Great moc! Ilove the "Model Team" feel of it. Might be one of the best I've seen in quite a while. Would love to see the chassis from below thought. -ED-