Nazgarot

Hi. First off. If you make a crawler or other off road vehicle with 4 wheel steering with the same steering angle in front and rear it would not need a center diff to maintain a good turning circle as the two outer and the two inner wheels will turn at the same rpm and the will be not rpm difference between the front and rear diff rotation speed. This I think is the best way to go. Two wheels on separate axles must loose traction before it looses propulsion. Second: I have a compact design for a robust Torsen diff. It's based on the basic design, but realized with small turntables an reinforcements integrated in the design. If I remember I can upload it when I get home tonight. Third: Lockable diffs are the best solution, but hard to make robust in Lego. A pneumatic activator is probably the best way to go and there are several designs out there, but it requires a pump and a motorized valve that takes a lot of space in a model. -ED-

Very nice system! This is mesmerizing to look at... :) I suggest using the Lego Apollo rocket as load in shows. -Espen D-

Sorry for double posting, but as this has little to do with the last post I'll do it anyway. Another benefit of the 1:16 scale is the Technic figures. They are somewhere in the range of 1:20 to 1:17 scale, and fit quite well as extra detail for models of 1:16 to 1:20 scale. Here are a few examples that might be in your interest. Just remember these are hard to come by, and quite expensive. Though for a display model they might be just the dot over the i you need to make it pop. -ED-

My best guess of cost for a 1:11 scale model would be closer to $ 2000-2500, depending on the builder and the level of detail you would want. With 1:16 scale a full RC model with lots of extra functions and a very detailed scale body should sit around $1000-1500, again depending on the builder. By the way, integrating standard RC equipment can be tough on the ego parts, so I suggest going with Lego Power Functions and the third party Bluetooth options with a mobile phone as a controlling device. This is the most used solution among us adult fans of Lego in the Technic theme. To see what level of detail is possible i 1:16 scale i recommend checking out these models: PS: Watch videos in all topics to see the integrated functions. With brick built body: Mostly Technic construction (some brick detailing): http://www.designer-han.nl/lego/stonetrailertruck.htm And for comparison, here is a 1:11 scale model... -ED-

Hi. I'm guessing you want something like this: To make this in 1:12 scale the closest you can come with the tires are the unimog tires from the 8810 Unimog, and they would make the model about 1:11 scale and very big! An estimated 37 studs tall and 90 studs in length. Going down to the standard truck tire used in the 8258 crane truck among others, you will end up with a scale of 1:16,7. This will still make the model about 25 studs tall, and about 60 studs in length. Building in the 1:16,7 scale is a lot cheaper, but can also be harder if details are a priority. However if functionality and RC is required this is the scale I would go for. The model in this scale would be around 8 inch tall and around 20 inch in length. The 1:11 scale will allow for a lot more details, but the weight will somewhat limit functionality. There will however be room to make steering, suspention, engine and other fuctions very detailed. I would however not recommend making it RC, but a lot of other functions could be motorized. The model in this scale would be around 11.6 inch tall and around 28 inch in lenght. There are some other rare tires that could be used, but they would make the model a lot more expensive, and non of them fit well with 1:12 scale, but could get closer to 1:15 scale. There is also the option of using non lego tires, but that again depends on what is wanted from the model. It would also be nice if you could tell us what level of detail and functionality you want. Should it be pure lego, should it include some 3rd party pieces like tires, RC/Bluetooth etc, should it be motorized, have motorized functions? And last and most important, what build style do you want? I mostly build pure Technic models with very realistic functions, but I do not make bodywork form system parts. I often include RC and motorized functions, and want things like steering angles and suspensions to be realistic, and I'm open to use some 3rd party solutions where lego is lacking (mostly tires and control systems). Unfortunately I do not have a lot of my models online, but this forklift from a few years back shows of my style quite well. Linde 3 ton forklift. -ED-

The hardest build I've had must be 8865. It is in no way the most complex, but it is very hard due to the high amount of parts pr step in the instruction. The most complex however is in my opinion one of these: 8110, 42054, 42009, 42043 I have not included the supercars as the only complex ting about them are the (rather bad) gearboxes. The models I've listed are compact interesting builds with a large number of functions and possibilities for modifications. There are a few other like the 8043 that could have made the list, but lacks a complex gearbox/geartrain. -Naz-

Quite impressive! This explains the price of PF-elements... They have to earn enough to finance all the motors in this...

That's a lovely little old style Technic model. Good to see someone still making them in these panel covered times. The model seems very functional, and the aesthetics are perfect for what a Technic model should be! PS: Where did you get the tires? I need some "small" tractor style tires for a model I'm working on.

I use small plastic shims that can be found cheap on e-bay or similar places. If you can find them thin with the right outer diameter it's no problem drilling the inner diameter to fit Lego with a high speed drill. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/plastic-washers -ED-

This set was at the time one of the most functional in it's price range, as well as being a very good parts source. I fully support the high score. It was definitely worth it. I still haven't seen many sets that can compare in that price range... If any of you have examples I would be very happy to check them out. There might have been some I've missed. -ED-

Thank you very much! My sons will be very happy! -ED-

Hi! I would be happy to receive it, and will do my best to pay it forwards! Thanks for doing this! Sincerely yours -ED-

9: 10 1: 6 10: 4 24: 3 5: 2 16: 1 -ED-

Might I suggest using tubes like those on the 8868 "Air Claw rig to hole the hoses? That would tie them down, and at the same time look very realistic. Apart from that I see very little to improve... Pic of upper structure of the 8868: -ED-

Same here. -ED-

I use them for spring loaded mechanisms to do a function like: tilting the cab of a truck, moving a function from one state to another - like the foils of an X wing where a two stud lever switches mode in a nice dampened mode, slowing down any motion by removing the spring... The possibility are only limited by your fantasy. -ED-

I do a lot more than "just" Lego/Technic. I have a ton of technical hobbies, from building/modifying electronics, Building/modifying/playing RC, restoring/modifying cars (real cars that is), playing/modding computer games, and of course building Lego Technic and MOCs. I often find myself viewing the Technic line as a bit backwards. There is no real innovation in how the steering angles are set up, how the gearboxes work, etc. But there always comes something that peeks my interest, like the 8275 Bulldozer that introduced PF remote systems, the 8110 Unimog that held so much promise and reintroduced Pneumatics (for me), the 42009 Mobile crane that finally let me have a large scale mobile crane model as I missed the famous 8421 mobile crane, the 42030 front loader that was the first wheeled full RC construction machine; the 42043 Arocs that was an amazing mix of stuff i wanted in a Technic model, and finally the 42056 Porsche. Common for them all is that in the end they disappoint, always falling just short of my hopes an expectations, like: 8275 - not using LA's to move the blade, and generally being a bit simplistic; 8110 - Having a terrible steering solution with completely wrong angles on the front axle and the portal hubs causing the turning point to be way to long from the wheel; 42009 - Not having any kind of suspension and the boom being a bit simple; 42030 - using a servo rather than small LA for steering; 42056 - Flawed gearbox and no real steering angles. The exception being the 42043 which is hands down the best set ever in my opinion. But don't misunderstand me, they are all great sets in their own right, and they are great sets to modify and improve, so they have a great value as inspiration. It's just that they could have been so much more... For me this is not a real problem. I mostly use them as sources for ideas and parts, and I have other hobbies for when I get bored with the limitations. There are however a few things I would like Lego to fix: - Build a super car with real steering angles, 4 WD and new hubs that gives the wheels a realistic turning point. - Make a new buggy and micro motor. - Make a longer and stronger LA, as this is often a limitation. - Make PF pneumatic valves. - Make Remote control with true relative control (analog control) The other things I wanted have gradually become a reality, and that is what makes me always come back to Technic, like; LA, longer pneumatic cylinders, PF motors, Remote control, new track system, etc. And even if I grow real tired with the slow evolution of Technic it is still great for testing concepts that are hard to simulate... To answer the OP: Yes, I feel the Technic platform is stagnating, but they renew it just enough to keep it interesting, so I'll still be here for a while. -ED-

I'll buy those from you in an instant. PM me! I have two at the moment. -ED-

That is a impressive looking model! I love the organic shapes of the bodywork, and the overall look of the model! -ED-

Sorry for quoting myself, but I have some updates. Updates BuWizz No 1: Still no change with this. I haven't heard back from the BuWizz team, and I haven't managed to turn it on with out external power. I'll take it with me to my lab and dismantle it so I can do a test of the battery if I don't hear back from the BuWizz team during the weekend. If anyone have been having similar problems I would be very interested to hear their experiences. I'm guessing it is either a bad battery or a component controlling the battery doesn't work. If it's the battery that should be easy to confirm, but I have no idea where to start looking if it is anything else... Updates BuWizz No 2: I tried to reinstall the App on my mobile, but it still didn't work. With experience from the S-brick app still i the back of my head I borrowed my wifes mobile to test it, and it actually did the firmware upgrade on it, and after trying to connect it through the setup a number of times it finally worked. After this tip I did a reboot of my own phone and tried again. And it worked! No problems connecting, and the module works very well in my test model (MOC thread comming soon). No I'm just crossing my finger that I can make my BuWizz No 1 work as well... -ED-

Hi Tommy B I also think you should solve the problem by yourself, but of course we can help you along the way. To get going you could follow these steps: 1: You need to make a sketch for what you want the design to be. 2: You should make a inventory of the available parts 3: It is important to know what motors you will be using, and how you are intending to power and control them 4: Start building as soon as possible. No plan survives first contact with battle i.e. you will have design ideas that won't work in real life... 5: If you want our help you should start by making a basic design and show us the results of 1 and 2 Best of luck with your project! -ED-

Thanks for the tip. I haven't tried to reboot the phone. I'll try it ASAP! -ED-

For this use I think I would program a Arduino controller by myself. This would be much more compact and be able to use non Lego lights like standard LED of many sizes. For a pure lego build it might be an option, but not one that gives me enough to buy it. After all it's not pure using this... But I did like the software they showcased. -ED-

I find this to be an amazing build. I love the old style "see through" bodywork that really lets you see what happens underneath, while at the same time having a futuristic look. This is among my most favorite supercars. Congrats with a briliant moddel! -ED-

I'm finally home, and I've started to test the BuWizz. I had backed for two in a early bird offering, and got them yesterday as I was leaving for a Conferace. I was super excited to start testing them, but something is not right... One of them I can't turn on unless it is connected to a micro USB charger. First time I tried to connect it to the app it uploaded new firmware, and seems to work ok once the charger is connected. It's even possible to turn it on and of with the charger connected, but it goes dead as soon as the charger is disconnected... A bad battery? The other one turn on ok, appears in the list of the app, but won't connect. I did not get a question on firmware update on this one. So, tow out of tow is faulty. I'm quite disappointed, buy I have high hopes that this is just a software/firmware issue. Hopefully a new version of the app can fix it. Once I've been in contact with the team behind it I'll ask if it is OK to open it and check the battery connection on the first one. I'll keep updating here to so you can see how this turns out... Even though there are some problems I would gladly but another two if they can make them work. This project has such high potential that I can't really see it fail. It is everything the S-brick is not, and it solves the Power Function issue of underpower. I sincerely hope it turns out good! -ED- EDIT: After some more testing I'm convinced the battery is not connected, or is a dud, in the first one. It works as it should when connected to a charger, but it has no power, and powers off when I give the motors load.