Nazgarot

I agree with most here that there are no hard official builds now a days as long as you know the techniques to make things run smooth, due to over simplified instructions... The hardest builds I've ever done must have been 8865 and 8868. 8865 was hard do toe the large amount of parts on every step, and me only being 8 years at the time... I still find this hard as you actually have to analyse the build as you go to find where to place all the parts. 8868 also had a lot of parts per instruction, but was also hard due to some unique techniques as well as a bucket load of pneumatic hoses. I still have the original build, and have never tried to rebuild it. I was about 10 when I built it, and I can still remember having my father holding the superstructure of the crane while I fixed a problem. I relied something had gone wrong with the turning mechanism after I was done, and struggled a long time to find out what was going on. It was such a tight fit the all the hoses had to be placed just so in order for it to operate smoothly. I had to modify the length of a couple of the hoses post build because they interrupted the turning mechanism, They where only about a cm to long, and in accordance with the instruction, but needed to be cut and put back in for it to operate smoothly. The more I think of it, the more certain I am that this is the hardest official build I've ever encountered. The 42043 had some of the same challenges, but not nearly as much, and there was a lot more room... The longest time I've ever used on any set was the 10179 UCS Millenium Falcon. This took me 23 hours from start to finish, but it was not particularly hard... -ED-

I just got mine! Unfortunately I got it only seconds before leaving for a two day conference... Well, at least I can download and play around with the app, and do a LDD of a test model... -ED-

I have made a mechanical sequencer that will allow you to use one motor to control two functions in sequence. It can be reversed at any time, and will revers the functions from wherever they are in the sequence. The motor will reverse the sequence from whatever point you reverse the motor. The only challenge is that the mechanism has a fair bit of resistance, taking a good part of the motors power. The thread has suggestions for other more compact designs as well. If you only need the motor to work in one direction on each function there are simple "gravity" latches that will allow the motor to switch between functions by changing directions. If you need a larger total amount of functions than motors, say 7 functions from 3 motors, it is possible using gearboxes and smart combinations of functions, but it requires both space and probably a redesign of all functions to incorporate. Example: A car with one motor for forward reverse, one servo for steering, and two motors for additional functions. By combining steering with a function selector it can have 4 or up to 6 extra functions utilizing the 2 extra motors and adding two extra functions to the forward reverse motor. (This is easier to explay if I draw it, but I don't have time at the moment. If you find it hard to understand I can make a drawing tomorrow). Say we use an example with steering and 4 extra functions on two motors. The forward reverse motor is only used for those functions (recommended if you don't want the model to roll away as the functions are activated, but can be used for functions combined with driving forward/reverse). While steering left the servo is also activating two gear selectors, activating function A (motor 1) and function C (motor 2). Those motors can be used for function A and C as long as the servo is still turned left. The moment the servo is released function A and C is disabled as the selectors are put back to center. When the servo goes right the selector activates function B (motor 1) and D (motor 2). These functions can now be used as long as the servo is kept right... Now, you can use any combination of these solutions to make even more advanced function selectors, but beware of the following: 1. The more selectors you use, the more play the functions get. 2. if you don't use worm gears to lock functions they will not lock when a selector is deselected (center position) 3. If you combine to many functions you are going to run into torque problems. 4. Keep you gearboxes simple and make as few gears of the opposite function (other position of selector) as possible turn when deselected or => Torque problems... 5. The mechanical sequencer takes a lot of torque to operate. To use it for powerful functions like lifting stuff with linear actuators I recommend using a XL motor. 6. Remember, all gearboxes and function selectors are going to need more space than extra motors... A selector roughly requires the same space as a M motor, though it can be easier to integrate. 7. I've always wanted to try using a micro motor for a selector function, but I never can seem to make it work due to it's very low torque. Though if you can make it work it would be a very good solution for a compact selector. Good luck, and don't be shy to present you model here. We might have suggestion on how to improve it... -ED-

I got mine today. Very nice work. The design is good, and it feels solid. The finish is nice, and makes the bucket seem worn, but in a good way. I highly recommend this for any moc of similar size to the 8043. Mine is going on my own "ultimate" version of the 8043. -ED-

This indeed looks promising. I would how ever like to see a more rounded stern, as the flat one makes it look kind of old fashioned. Looking forward to see how this progresses. -ED-

Thanks for the heads up! Just ordered mine. -ED-

I really like this. Nice and simple solution, that can fit with both motor and servo. Great work!! -ED-

I think you are missing a part of the point. I need a better third hand (i.e. one that has longer reach, and is easier to place correctly) and making a robotic hand is fun and cool, and will make it a lot easier to do minor adjustments compared to using something with wing nuts or similar. It will mostly be used for welding on electronics, motors etc. Not welding pipes or similar. And the Lego version would only be a prototype to see how I should design it. I often use Lego to prototype things that I make out of metal or wood, to save time on developing solutions. The lego model would mainly be to find the correct numer of joints (DOFs), size and test usefulness. Strength of motors should not be a problem as a final version in 6061 aircraft grade aluminum would contain servos rather than standard motors. Basically it will be similar to the arm I linked to, but adapted for my purposes. For the arm I'm thinking it will need 5 or 6 DOFs, and interchangeable tools. The big problem lies in making it easy to control. Lego version would probably use simple PF solutions, but final version might be controlled through an arduino processor on a prototyping board. Still if the Lego prototype is good enough I might just use it, and if it shows it is very hard to use, or difficult to make accurate enough, I might drop the project altogether. I was hoping to see some models that others have made to get some ideas, and your videos where helpful. Thanks! I've also found this, that seems like a very compact solution, and easy to build out with further functions. I might base a first prototype off something similar. If anyone knows of a video of this thing I would be very happy to get a link. It's posted by DLuders, who seems to be Banned from the site for some reason. There was no video in the post, and I can't seem to find any... -ED-

Sorry. I've been looking for something like that for years. I have considered buying this, ore one size smaller several times, but find them to expensive. I would also really appreciate it if anyone has found them cheaper, and in other dimensions (smaller) that fit Lego. I would especially like some that fit the 41896 wheels. -ED-

How far away are we from having the Ludicrous mode? That is one of the main selling points for me. I already bought two through funding, but would be up for another two if the L-mode is included... -ED-

I found I need something more flexible and stronger than a simple mechanical third hand to help me when I do welding. The Third Hand I have right now is rather clumsy, somewhat like this but bigger. The other standard variants are way to flimsy, and of little use for my purposes. Today I happened upon this, and immediately thought I need to have this! Both for usefulness and because it's cool. Then I thought it was way to expensive, and that I could build one myself. I first thought i could do it from metal, using the one I found as a blueprint for how to make it. Then it hit me it would be much cooler and much more fun to prototype it with Lego. So here I am. This is what I'm hoping to end up with, and I would much appreciate it if anyone has tips for how to make something like this, or links to other similar projects. The important part for me is that it needs to be strong and stable. I prefer using as few gears as possible in order to reduce backlash. It might be some time before I can start this project for real as I'm about to replace the roof of my house, but I'll try to update here as often as possible. -ED-

A very good build! I love the compactness of it. I strive to make all my models compact, but this is beyond me... Great work! I think this is fit for hall of fame. -ED-

You could solve this in a tighter volume using rope/string and several pullys. Attaching the figure would be harder, but doable. Using original lego ropes with stud ends could solve the attatching issue, but making hardert to run over a pully. You will just have to experiment with what you have got. -ED-

And that is exactly why I worte like this: And the answer came here... And with that in mind, Good build, though not very useful... Do you blow or suck with the vacuum? I have vacuums that do both, but it seems to me like it's sucking. If that is the case it could be quite powerful, as the suction from a vacuum applied correctly is very strong... I've seen climbing gear to climb glass walls made from vacuums that actually work. Do you have any implementation in mind for it? A steam punk like model powered by a vacuum would be cool! -ED-

An air engine made from a 2 way pneumatic cylinder would also require very little air to run if you first got it started. Using the same setup as here, you should be able to power it with a simple lego compressor or pump with an airtank... I'll try to make one later today if I can find the time... -ED-

I really don't understand why you would build it this way? You could make a working edition by using a double actuated Lego pneumatic cylinder and a valve... This could actually make mechanical power from air pressure, ore work as a very efficient pump to convert mechanical motion into air pressure. It would also be a much simpler construction. Is there some other goal to this construction? Are you set on making it without pneumatic parts or without beams etc? -ED-

I'm very excited to see how you will pull this off. If you need some background material I can recommend this site: http://www.smcars.net/threads/porsche-550-spyder-factory-drawings.3205/ Best of luck with this project! -ED-

I would like some detailed pictures of the new parts, as well as pictures of the tires/wheels compared to excising ones. It would also be nice if you could make some scale comparisons. Good luck with the review! -ED-

I would like to see some holes on the short side, as well as the long side, to ease studless mounting. I would also like to see it with 6-8 Channels, or the option of adding a hub with 4 extra channels for low power applications like LED, micromotor, etc. I still backed for 2 of them, but these suggestions would make them much more flexible, as they seem hard to mount and limited by their size. -ED-

WOW! This is probably one of the most amazing builds I ever have seen! And for the first time ever, I'm willing to pay for instructions. I can rebuild almost anything, but this... It's beyond me. Exceptionally nice model, and an amazing amount of functions for the space. How did you design the clutch? That's probably the most impressive function for the space it uses... -ED-

Sounds promising. Having seen your earlier models I can't wait to see detail pics of this. You do real good work! Keep it up! -ED-

I can confirm the shop reporting the set as coming soon til way past 01:00. I don't know the exact time it changed, but before I went to bed i reported sold out, awailable in 30 days. There is definitely something going on... I guess they have done a recall of all sets not sendt to a actual shop. The gearbox problem with wrong sequence of gears may be one reason, the gearbox being prone to lockups may be another. Hopefully they will also make the body easier to separate from the chassis, but that may be hoping for too much... -ED-

Well... There is this mod from Hispabrick magazine to separate the body from the chassis more easily. It was the first mod I my self thought needed to be done after having read Jim's review. Se video explaining the mod below. Result: Thanks to Hispabrick Magazine for this mod! Hopefully we will soon be seeing mods to the suspension to make it more realistic with ankermann steering and (more) correct angles. I unfortunately coudn't get it at shop at home. At 01:30 it still was not for sale, and at 06:45 it was sold out... I was annoyed, but seeing the problems with the gearbox I really have second thought on buying it. Let's hope there will be a mod for a 7+R gearboks sometime soon... -ED-

For me I think the S-brick and 3rd party tires are ok exceptions to purism. Both can be easily exchanged for "legal" parts, and they are only filling a gap that TLG don't seem willing to fill. It's also very hard to replace tires and the functionality of S-brick with something "pure". I would say it's the exception that makes the rule work. Though with all that said, I'm very disappointed it the progress of the app for S-brick... -ED-

You could have a look at BrickOwl I have no idea what their prices are compared to bricklink for this spesific part, but I often find parts at a very diferent prisepoint on the two sites, sometimes bricklink being pricier and sometimer brickowl... I allways check both, as well as Legos own "bricks & pieces" for new parts, when i need to buy something for a project. -ED- EDIT: Is this the one you are looking for? http://www.brickowl....ed-center-62821 Lego Bricks & Pieces have the part at about $ .6 Go here, enter your age and destination. Click next. Choose "I want to buy a piece". Choose "Bricks and pieces selection". Enter part number 62821 or the number of a set containing the part Choose the part and modify the amount you want... The rest you have to find out yourself... ;) PS: I don't know if this service is available in all areas...