Nazgarot

Mostly i buy sets for expensive or rare parts. But a few sets I do buy to display, for example the 8043 excavator. I have bought two of several sets in order to have one display model as well as parting out. The few models I display are how ever modified, either for better looks, or better functionality. The 8043 has got a jackhammer as well as a new scoop, and a few other mods as well... I'm thinking on buying more models in the future to part out and sell, but still haven't done so as my collection still needs all the add ons it can get... -ED-

First of all, HOLY SHIT!! That is an amazing plane! I can't wait to see it done... I really like the open frame construction. I think it's an amazing way to both give a model a nice shape, as well as make it possible to see the inner workings of the model. And that, as I see it, is a part of the point with Technic. I'm trying to design a car around the same concept, and see some of the challenges you have got'n past. I have a suggestion for you, if you are willing to modify a motor. I've been playing around with this idea for a while, but still haven't made a model to test it in. The XL motor is the most efficient Lego has made yet, only problem is it's geared so low its almost unusable for high speed applications. What I want to do, is to modify the planetary gearbox to speed it up. The pictures below shows the inner workings of the motor, and as you can see there is a two stage planetary gearbox inside it. My idea is to lock one (for good speed/power ratio) or two (for maximum speed) of those planetary gears. I've showed how this can be done in the second picture, with the blue and red markings. The red markings shows what needs to be cut away, while the blue shows where the gears need to be locked with glue. For even greater speed I would recommend making a battery pack consisting of a 3 cell LiPo battery. This would give you a compact, powerful, battery pack at 11.1 Volt. Just remember to add a cut off, or you could very well end up melting both the battery and the model... I will make a new topic for the motor mod as soon as I get around to doing it... -ED-

Hi, I would like to use these tires in an upcoming MOC. They have the following dimensions: Outside diameter: 4.25inch(108mm) Width: 1.41inch(36mm) Inside diameter: 1.77inch(45mm) Can anybody help me find a wheel that will fit this tire? I was hoping to use the wheels of 8265 (the 2009 front loader), but I think they will be a bit to small as they only are 43.2 mm. Any ideas? I'll probably order them anyways, and modify the wheels in some way if they don't fit, but a cleaner solution would be preferred... -ED-

09 Was probably 8850 in 1990. If it was not first, it was at least one of the first. The parts have been in production from 1990. As others have said, you will find all your answers on BrickLink.com... -ED-

Nice construction. I would love to see more pictures explaining how it works. It seems to me that there is a lot of resistance in the adjustment (This may be where you have modified a part?)... And, of course it has been done before, but yours are more compact. The "Baby Twin Otter" is my favorite plane MOC of all times, and it has a well working, but quite clumsy, solution. I've also recently seen a couple of helicopter MOCs with good solutions. Among them this (one of the best ever helicopter MOCs), witch has the most compact solution I've seen yet on the tail rotor. Hope you can pick up a few tips form these links. Good look with the rest of you gargantuan plane :) -ED-

No, the problem is not the gearing of the steering (even though that has a role to play) but the geometry. With correct geometry it would be a lot easier to steer, and LPE has made a to solve this. I haven't tried this yet as I was so displeased with the steering that I demolished the whole model for parts.I was considdering to buy several 8110's, but I was so disappointed by the new hub part that I only bought 1. I was hoping for a part with a true knuckle/C-hub construction to get the pivot point as close to the wheel as possible, and maybe even introduce adjustable caster angel (+/- 15 degree, for so that you can use them both for front and rear axles). The new part did however move the pivot point even further form the wheel than the best MOC solutions for geared hubs... -ED-

Hi, May I suggest that you develop that chassis into one of the "Howe and Howe" Robotic Solutions? As you can see in the pictures below they have a similar track to your chassis, and can have a lot of different equipment. The manipulator is my favorite, but it's quite complex to make realistic... I have made a few editions of their Rip Saw autonomous/remote tank. Robotic solutions platform (RS1 Base) Tracks (of RS1) With manipulator (G1 guardian) Fire fighter (T2 thermite) If I can find time I will try some of these, but on a smaller scale than your chassi... Good luck whatever you end up building. Please keep us updated on your progress. -ED-

Thanks to both of you!! That will probably solve my problem. I'll post my results in this tread, but it might take a while as I don't have much time to tinker with my Lego any more... -ED-

Yes, exactly. That is the problem with this combination. I was hoping to use the RCX as a receiver/mixer for two IR channels, and 3 motors. I can compromise with using an IR receiver in addition to the RCX, but then I would have to include another battery box or modify the RCX to have a battery connection for the IR receiver. This would still not give me a possibility to use the proportional action of the servo motor, or the more general speed control for other PF elements. But I'm not sure that those functions can be used anyway as I don't know if the RCX has control outputs (C1 and C2). The PF system works by applying 2 power connections (positive and ground) and two control connections (C1 and C2) that will give you variable speed or for the servo proportional control. The question would be; Does anyone know if the RCX has 4 connections, or is it only positive and ground? And does anyone have a resourse with alternative software for RCX that supports PF IR protocols? @DLuders: Thanks. That may help a lot. I've just checked out Philos page, but still need to experiment a bit more before I can say it solved my problems. But maybe buying the NXT and a HiTech IRLink Sensor is the only way to solve my problem...

Hi, I have an old RCX 2.0 module, and wonder if it can be used with the new PF system. I know it doesn't support the PF protocols out of the box, but maybe there is some custom software for it? I want to use it as a mixer unit between 3 PF motors, and was hoping to control it from a PF remote. I could put in a PF receiver to receive and activate inputs on the RCX, but I still don't know if that would work. If anyone has experience with RCX/PF combinations, or know of any resource sites with information on PF and RCX protocols or custom software, please help me. I'll be testing this anyway, but it would be a great help to know the protocols of the components. I have little experience with programming, and haven't used the RCX module much, but I have a good basis in electronics and C++. Thanks -ED- EDIT: Added link to RCX 2.0 on brickLink

Well... The challenge would of course be to put all that into as small a frame as possible. Here is an example for you. It's Nathanael Kuipers Pony car. He managed to fit independent fornt suspention, a live rear axle, working steering wheel, fake engine and a working gearbox. What more is there? It's one of my favorite MOCs of all times! Link to Nathanael Kuipers Brickshelf folder for this car. -ED-

Hi, I want to present another differential concept I've been tinkering with since I got my hands on a pair of the new smaller turntable. It's derived from the old "torsen" diff concept using two old turntables (I don't know who first came up with this, but I've included my version in this post), but a lot more compact. I've tested it with a medium motor, but don't think it will be strong enough for a XL motor. It would be interesting to see how it handles the L motor... This should be interesting for anyone who needs a working self locking differential. I'll put up a video as soon as I have the time to make one. The .lxf file will be available on Brickshelf as soon as they have approved it. Deep link: torsen_diff_x2 Old an new diff: Internals of the old: Internals of the new: Tested model: The rubber bands in the last picture are supposed to hold the 8 stud braces in place, I may however have tightened it to much... -ED- EDIT: Tried to make a deep link to the .lxf file... Pleas inform me if it doesn't work.

Hi, I saw a MOC of a bicycle on Cuusoo and found I wanted to make one of my own dream cycle. The result can be seen below. It has both front and rear suspension, with the rear being much harder than the front. I did not include any fake gears as I decided it wouldn't look as good with a set of 8 tooth gears like the inspiration has, and there would be no reason to put in more gears if these where missing. I include fake brakes, but found that working brakes (using "Flex system") would be to cumbersome. I considered making the frame from tubes, but decided it wouldn't be strong enough for the rear suspension I wanted to make, so I made it as thin as possible using studless beams. The handlebar was supposed to be light gray, but i lacked the parts. I am actually very pleased with how it turned out though. I haven't found any good way yet to construct a seat (saddle), but will update as soon as I have, and I lack a good scale solution for the pedals. Ideas are very welcome! Hope you like what you see... -ED-

Hi, I completed my strong diff a couple of weeks ago, but haven't found time to upload it before now. I've been reviewing some of the ideas her. Many of them are good, and I may use some of them i upcoming projects. There are how ever several problems that make them not ideal for this Moc; they are either not completely lego, heavily modified bricks, not smooth enough (knob wheels) or will destroy themself... So to my idea. Everyone who has read the tread know there has been some evolution from my first idea, and the final edition is both easy to build, nearly indestructible and purely lego. It's still big, cumbersome and has a lot of rotating mass, but for my application that doesn't madder. I have managed to make it possible to disassemble it, and keeping the outer gear of the turntable free of interruptions (There are no parts sticking far enough out to interfere with the gear), so I have reached my goal. Next step will be to integrate it in my RipSaw v3. It will be the main components in a add/sub driveline using 3 or 5 XL PF motors... Pic: Final diff CAD: Internal parts and final diff CAD: Evolution of I have also put out a new .lxf file, containing a versions of the diff on my Brickshelf page. It should be available soon. Deep link to .lxf file: Strong Diff -ED- EDIT: Added a deep link to the .lxf file

Really great model so far, and very good progress! May I suggest using the extra function for a dozer blade? A lot of excavators have one, and can use it both for dozing and to "anchor" the machine. -ED-

Hi, Sorry if this comes off offensive, but I find it suspect that you are selling three NXT models, and don't have a single set of CD/extra parts... Anyway, the price is far off for used incomplete sets. As a package I guess you could get 2-250 Euro for it if you are lucky, but a lot of people will find it weird that it's only the models and nothing else... Still you might be lucky. -ED-

There is something called plastidip. It's very popular for use on RC, and works quite well. You will how ever have to open every component and waterproof the electronics inside. -ED-

It worked well for me. I downloaded all issues back to issue 6, as I only have read them online before. Lots of great inspiration here! Thanks for a great magazine, and a special thanks for making it available in English! -ED-

I've started using my pitchfork. Will pick up the chest with my morningstar tomorrow! Let's bug him til he deletes all stolen material!

That is truly a great MOC! I admire your work, it's some of the best minifig technic MOCs I've seen. Could you please give us a few pictures of the internal workings of this and the red crane truck? -ED-

I really think I'm going to love those motors! They seem quite powerful, and have a good RPM count. Nice work efferman! I really look forward to a demonstration of the mods. Could you also give us a few pic from the underside of the chassis? -ED-

I'm currently using those, and they can deliver a lot of current, and doesn't fall below 1.5 Volt as fast as normal NiMH batteries. They do how ever slowly crawl towards 1.1 Volt, and will not pack as much of a punch as alkaline batteries in PF (they can have voltages as high as 1.7 when new). The main problem with PF is how ever not to deliver current, or keep a charge over time. It's that the PF elements has over current protection. The only way to make PF more powerful is by using a higher Voltages. That is why I've been considering the Li-ion batteries. But, I would still recommend trying the eneloop batteries as they are quite practical. -ED-

I just reworked it in CAD. This version has more rotating mass, but is more compact. I have an idea for one edition that will be at least one stud shorter, but can't work it out without parts to try... This version how ever seems to be possible even though it will ba hard to keep the core parts in place while building everything around it. It will probably have to be built with the assist of needles to keep everything in place. As I'm having trouble with Brickshelf I have uploaded three images showing more details then the previous ones. 1: The diff as it would look when completed. (the 5x7 brace is turned transparent to better show connections. Wouldn't it be great if this part came in transparent?) 2: The brace and a few other parts are removed to show the connections and the inner workings of the diff. 3: Closeup of the inner parts. Note the half stud bushes in the center of the diff. There is supposed to be one on every axle end, so that they support each other. It worked on the first edition I made, so it's possible, but hard to make. There is how ever still the problem with dismantling it... But I think the needle trick should help. -ED- EDIT: Ops, sorry for the double post. They just didn't belong naturally together...

did you swap the black pins?

Because of the 3 long axle extending through these 3 parts: Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular Axle and Pin Connector Angled #2 Pin Long with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Center Pin Hole If you try to build it, you will see for your self... Just remember to switch the black pins for these: -ED- EDIT: @SNIPE: Seems it's not yet public... I don't know why. Will try to find out.