Nazgarot

What receiver are you using? The V2 receiver delivers more power to the motors, and should pull more from the battery box... -ED-

I like the progress, and it seems very compact. I think this is going to be a great MOC. I do however agree with Zblj, those steering links are likely to cause problems... I also seems you have some gears skipping, but i guess you are going to sort that out. May i suggest that you use double gears to the axles? If you add a 12 tooth gear (where you now are using half bushes) along with the 20 tooth gears you will get a much stronger transfer of power, as well as less problems with gears skipping. -ED-

Welcome! This is looking good. Can't wait to see more pictures. Can you say some more about functionality? Does it have any suspension, is it RC and so on? -ED-

Use two PF recievers, or use a servo to controll a switch (PF switch or the battery box switch) directly connecting the four motors to one or more battery boxes. This should give you enough power to run the motors. I would also recommend using the V2 receiver that was launched along with the crawler, as that will give you about 30% more power to the motor. (It will however require using more than one battery box as there is a limiter in the battery box as well). -ED-

As a part package for building loaders it is good, and as a set it may be a bit over average, but it's definitely not worth $200. That said, I bought two, one for the parts for a project I lacked a lot of yellow parts and LA's, and the other to mod into a full RC loader. I'm not done with the second, and still has it on a shelf awaiting a rebuild. It should not be to hard, it's just that I haven't had the time yet. If you are thinking of using it with 8043 I guess you would like to RC it? If you get it and do, I would be interested to see your result. -ED-

WOW! This is amazing, and a bit scary... It gives me an aerie feeling, a bit like in one of the terminator films when we see the chip that lays the foundations for Skynet... Thanks for sharing this great work! -ED-

You could try my 6 bevel custom diff for high torque applications... It is very strong (using 6 bevels in total), and has very smooth operation due to using normal gears rather than knob gears. More pictures and .lxf file can be found here. -ED- EDIT: Please take great care when inserting the "planet gears" as they have to be correctly aligned for the diff to rotate easily. It should have almost no resistance when correctly assembled.

Great model! And unusual to! I really like this, and by my definition it's definitively a Model Team model, and a very good one at that. We don't see to many Model Teams around any more, so please keep up the good work.

Basically I'm against modding Lego parts, because I think the challenge of making it work with Lego is half the hobby, but there is exceptions that I agree to. I will list some here. I don't care if others like it or not, but those few MOC's that I present to the public I try to keep as mod free as possible to enable others to rebuild them. Parts I do mod or plan to mod include: - Parts that are obviously to week in their original form (like the CV joint), - PF lights as they are way to expensive (and by making my own I don't make it easier to build, only cheaper), - PF batteries; 9 V battery as a compact power source for low power applications where it's impossible to use standard battery-boxes (the rechargeable is way to expensive), as well as modding the standard box with rechargeable batteries to save money, - unintended combinations of parts (like the custom U-joint), because they strictly speaking aren't a modification to a part, but existing parts. - Non Lego tires on Lego rims, this is mostly because of looks as the current line of Lego tires is very little lifelike... - Non Lego rubber bands, because the Lego ones are to expensive - PF-receiver modified to RF, to get better reach and less "noise"... I haven't gotten around to do this yet, but I really want to, as the current IR system is way to restricted for outdoor use. -ED-

I've been following this project over the last couple of weeks, and must say I'm amazed by the result! In the beginning I didn't think much of it. Just another guy with big plans who soon will see how hard they are to realize, and in the beginning it seemed correct. But oh how wrong I was... After the rebuild the car turned out amazing. I really love the RC-style clutch and will try to incorporate it in one of my own MOC's,as well as the compact gearbox. All over an amazing model. Thanks for sharing!!

Hi, and welcome to Eurobricks! This is looking a lot like my first moc after the "dark-ages"... I bought two 8275 Bulldozers to build a lego technic replica of the RipSaw. I started with a very simple chassis like you, but with more focus on the suspension system. I did keep it studless all the way though. In the end I made three iteration before my mark one was done. It worked exactly like I wanted, but it was way to slow. a month later I had made a mark two that had good speed but was impossible to use do to it's destructive ability towards lego... Mark 3 worked like a charm, but was hard to control, and the suspension geometry wasn't really as good as I wanted it do to short springs. Now 4 years later I have just started work on my RipSaw mark four. The belts and suspention is done with larger springs and correct geometry, and a improved adder-subtractor girbox with custom diffs to handle the torque is in place. Do to lack of time for building it will probably still be some time before it's done... You have done some great development, and I love the gun. Maybe you should make it a mobile artillery and not a traditional tank as that would keep the gun more in scale? Good luck with the rest of the model, and hope to see you around in here. -ED-

I love this. I've wanted to make one for my self for years, but lacking powerpuller tires (just got some) and finding the motor to weak has stopped me... I do how ever have an idea now, thanks to you. Thank you for shearing! I can't wait to see it finished. -ED-

That is right. I like it because it has quite a good movement for the tow-balls. It is how ever a bit flimsy, so I often reinforce it by using a couple of (thin) lift arms beside it. I have also used it for a couple of stiff axles that I needed to give realistic angels, but it's really not good for smaller scale, as the axels become at least 15 studs wide measured form outside the wheels. I really hope TLG will launch a smaller part that can work as a receiving end for tow-balls. That would make it a lot easier to make good compact axles while still keeping them realistic. For stiff axles it's an idea to make the "a-arm" in a slight angle. This tightens up the hub, and gives it less play, and at the same time it will help keeping the camber neutral under load. I have seen Effe use the same technique on some occasions. With my hubs you can do this by making the upper a-arms a stiff constructions, then place the lower ones at an angle making the inner side one stud higher than the tow-ball mount (the same way I did with my double wishbone). Jupp, that right, then I re-size them in paint... No need to make it harder than it needs to be.

Here are a couple of examples. I have some more updated versions, but they are all based on the same idea. They will allow you to make very realistic steering setups, and angles. Both caster, variable camber, toe in and combination angles should be possible using a hub like this. For implementation you could see some of my ideas on my brickshelf. -ED-

The problem with steering radius comes as soon as you try to power the wheels. Any steered and powered axle with these hubs will have a bad turning radius do to the CV parts. I personally solve this by using a custom hub. I have several designs I use depending on whether it's independent suspension or a stiff axle. I'm also working on a new setup for independent suspension, similar to what a Moxy dumper uses, that will employ a new design. -ED-

Only way i can see to remove it without destroying any parts would be to apply a little drop of powerful glue to the end of an axle, and push it in to the 2 l axle. Let the glue harden, and pull the axles out. The two axles should be quite easy to break apart afterwards. However, I would not risk the parts to try it.

They work very well as long as the vehicle isn't to heavy. I used them on the front suspension of a Scania truck MOC I'm working on. They where very good when I had a test frame with little weight on it (read: only PF and frame), but with a cabin an some extra weight they got to compressed for my taste. I completely redid the suspension setup (will be presented at a later date), but not before doing some off-road testing. They where great, especially on large changes in the terrain, like going over rocks. This looks quite good, but I'll be disappointed if you don't use the more compact twin front axles for something... They amazed me. I think one of your primary skills as a builder is that you can make very compact constructions work (like the last G you made. That was awesome!). PS: I see that you sometimes use to studless beams with bushings on the axles to center them. Might I suggest using a "watts linkage"? I used it for a rebuild of the old 8850 rally support truck, and it works great.

That is some exceptional lines! Very nice build. I wish it was mine... EDIT: It actually reminds me a bit of the Range Rover Evoque. Maybe that can give you a couple of ideas for the rear end, as I think the center rear part could have been better,

Hi, At least one other solution exists. I don't know who made this, but it an ingenious idea. It works just like the clutches of nitro rc cars. If you want a tougher locking of the clutch you can use 8 tooth gears to make it engage when the motor starts. My version with gears locking it (I could not make it allign with 3 clutch shooes, so I reduced it to two). The red axle goes to the motor, and green to driveline: -ED- Edit: Just found the homepage of the maker: http://p-lego.blogspot.it/ He presented the clutch on Eurobricks a time ago along with a 3+R gearbox. http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=77753 Edit 2: After I got of the jjob network I found a good picture (was blocked by a firewall) Edit 3: Included my own version.

Hi, I can't see exactly how you intend this to work, but maybe this part could help you. I've used it several times to make suction pumps, and avoid water getting into the pump. It works as a one way vent where you have input on one side linked to input/output in the middle, and output on the other side. (In short, air only flows from left to right) -ED-

This will be way to flimsy for my use, and it will have the wrong sequence. I need the following sequence: action 1 til it stops, then action 2 til it stops. And when reversed, action 2 reversed til it stops, then action 1 til it stops. If it is reversed anywhere in between it should reverse the sequence from that point. This is a good way to sequence two actions, if they are equal in lenght, repeting and quite short. It will not be a good solution for longer sequences, and sequences of different length. It is how ever a good idea, for it's uses. -ED-

Yes, please share pictures/.lxf! This is probably just what I was hoping for; someone picking up the idea and improving it further! I like the idea of using a "crawling worm gear". I've done that several times before, but didn't think of it for this application as I needed greater speed, but i would still love to see it. I didn't especially like the solution with the 8 tooth gears, so finding a way to get rid of them is definitively a step in the right direction. I have cooked up a version where the diffs are turned around, and the axle from the direction sensor ends in a "Pin long with stop bush". Can't wait to see your solution...

Thanks! That is actually a very clever idea, even though it has limited uses. I have mainly been focusing on a solution that allows infinite number of rotations before locking (LA's primerly), and didn't think about that at all. It would be a great, and simple, solution in some cases. By adjusting it slightly you could even make the functions overlap... The main problem with my solution is that it takes a lot of room. I would love to make it more compact, but not necessarily change the components. A different "direction sensor" might do the trick, and allow the diffs to be placed differently... Anyway, thanks for the input! -ED-

Hi, Before starting on this project I tried searching the net to see if anybody had made anything like this before, but I've come up empty handed. I needed to make a mechanism that would allow me to have one motor run two functions in sequence, where one action was executed first, then the second, and when you reverse the motor, the sequence reverses as well. That is, in reverse the second action will happen first. This would be useful for any two function that are supposed to be in sequence, like: The forks and the extendable mast on a forklift, the feet of a mobile crane, sections of the boom on a mobile crane, and so on... Detailed description: I've made a two action mechanical sequencer that first will execute one function til it stops, then the second til it stops. When you reverse the single motor running it, it will reverse first the second function til it stops, then the first function. It you change direction of the motor anywhere, it will reverse the functions from that point, but will keep the same sequence. To explain my self better; if the first function has not reached its stop, and you reverse the motor, the first function will reverse, while the second function will not activate. I've included a couple of pictures, and a movie will be coming soon. I would really appreciate if anybody could help me make it more compact, or come up with a simpler solution to my problem. Pictures: The gray axle into the black 12 tooth gear is the input (from medium or large motor. XL is to slow to engage this direction sensitive gearbox), and the green and pink(?) axle is output 1 and 2. A unintended benefit to this design is that when both outputs reach their stop, the whole construction functions as a clutch and saves the motor from locking up. (The whole setup might however be a bit tough on a medium motor...) Finally the video is ready! And of course, the .lxf file. The file also contains a few older/alternate versions. -ED- EDIT: Added video.

Hi, This i my first ever micro scale MOC. I don't know if this is the right forum, and if it isn't, I would appreciate if it was moved to the right forum. I got inspired by this great little MOC on cuusoo. As it is my first time building this kind a model, I tried a few different techniques. You can see the terrain is very different from one side to the other, and the level of detail is varying around the whole model. I plan to build it in real life as soon as I can order some more parts of bricklink (which may take some time as Technic models are prioritized, and January generally is an expensive month with insurance, taxes, and so on...). And, it's time for a couple of pics: I would very much like to learn more about techniques fore building on micro scale, and would appreciate if anyone could point me in the right direction. -ED- The .lxf file can be found in my Brickshelf folder as soon as it's approved.