Nazgarot

Great start for a hotrod. I really like your second axle design. Could you try with the tires from 42000? They are the same with, but a little bit taller, but they might be to tall... -ED-

I love the simple, jet functional design you made for an macpherson front suspension. It is great. What spring did you use? I guess any spring from the original Lego "shocks" could be used, but I can't see what hardness you are using... -ED-

This is the same solution as Doosan (former Moxy) dumpers use. They have a semi independent front suspension as well (the cabin with front axle is pendular to the chassis) to increase ride comfort for the driver. And it works VERY well! Se this link for more info on the Doosan/Moxy dumpers. -ED- EDIT: corrected text

Hi, Great chassis! I would love to see some closeups of the macpherson front suspension. -ED-

It should be 3l on one end, as the CV joint only has enough operation angle to work in the diff end. The steering end needs a 1,5l and 3l axle to connect to the CV joint in one end and the wheel in the other. -ED-

I have made a few alterations to the idea for a axle U-joint that I presented in this thread (see replay #31 and #40). I have designed a axle U-joint with a 3l axle on one side and a 1,5l axle on the other side. This would allow for mounting a wheel on the 3l side as most rims have a 2l axle mount in the center, and connecting a CV joint on the other (the 1,5l side) for a total length between joints of 4 studs. This would make for a very compact independent suspention setup, and a lot of flexibility as the U-joints can be disconnected and assembled in any configuration u like, with the classic 1l axle connector, the old with a half stud extra distance in the joint or the two axle lengths... -ED-

If you combine one with a 1,5 l arm with a CV joint it would make the distanve between the joints 4 l . That makes for 4 l suspension arms I have to mod my own idea (is MOI a term we should use?) to a axle U-joint with one 1,5 l axle and one 3 l axle. That would make it a lot more flexible, and make sure it could be used with the CV joint. -ED-

Well, I actually didn't so much draw it as cut and past with Paint... I simply took the axle part of a CV coupling and a U-joint from LDD and cut and pasted it. Simple is often the best. It was 5 minutes work, and I bet you could do it as well. But anyway, thanks! PS: I think this would be very useful together with a CV joint in suspension systems on steered wheels. -ED-

Apart from; longer pneumatic cylinders (like the long old one or even longer), a new micro motor, and a PF pneumatic valve, there is one part I very much would like TLG to make. An axle universal joint. This would be very useful for making compact independent suspensions and a hole lot of other applications... It would be even better if TLG would reinforce it a bit as well. It could even be combined with 3l Universal joints to make this... I will try to make one my self by cutting and gluing just to prove it's versatility. If it works like intended I may even try to make one in aluminium. -ED- EDIT: Added a link.

Thanks! This is probably a little smaller than I will end up with, but I may give in and use pneumatic, and that should make it a little more compact. -ED-

That sounds very interesting. I haven't seen it before, could you provide a link? I'm working on a Cat bulldozer of my own, just haven't decided if it will be a 10, 11 or 12... It will have a 9 stud wide body, and a fully articulated blade (individual left and right blade lift as well as tilt) and a rebuildable (1 to 3 claws) scraper in the rear with tilt and rise/lower function. I'm trying to make it all RC through PF/LA, but may have to use pneumatic to make it more neat... But it is a real challenge to realize it with LAs. -ED- Edit: corrected spelling

I'm really impressed with this! I favor designs that are as compact as possible myself, and know how hard it can be to integrate many functions in such a small space. This model with its functions, an specially the gearbox is quite an accomplishment! It is way more impressive to me than a similar model in scale with Unimog tires would be. -ED-

I would recommend you to try with Duplo. It works very well as the sharp edges are easy for the tires to grip on, and because of the big blocks you can build a course in no time... And it's Lego!

Both go by the same number on bricklink, but I don't know with TLG themselves, as we don't have the option to buy directly in Norway. What i do know is that the new beefy version has been in every set I have bought after 2011. I will take some pictures for you to show the difference when I get the time. -ED-

I'll be looking forward to that!

I used this method before my dark ages (the hoses where a lot stiffer with less flex back then): 1. Leave hoses mounted on parts til they get stretched (this will not be as easy with newer hoses, but maybe some kind of heat treatment like dipping them in hot oil can help) til they became loose. 2. Find a soft metal tube (like copper or brass) that fits tightly outside the hose when it is connected. 3. Cut an grind a few "sleeves" of the tube, and use this to lock the hose in place. 4. You have a solid hose connection that is very easy to connect/disconnect. Just pull back the "sleeves" and the hose comes of easily. I haven't tried this with newer hoses, and this was back in the early nineties, so I don't know if it will work with modern hoses and connectors. -ED-

Just remember, there are two kinds of chain-links. The newer one is a lot more beefy than the old, and is the one you want. Best thing to do is buying all links from the same lot to make sure they are of the same type. Both fit equally well on 16 tooth gears, but the old (less beefy) one has a lot more sideways flex to it. -ED-

Cool!! That is very good! I especially like that it has a turning system. Best one yet, and i cant wait to see it with a shell. -ED- PS: I would love to see some good pictures or instructions for this. Also, it would be great for Cuusoo...

That's not a pendular suspension, but a live axle. if you search a bit on this forum you will see there is several topics discussing live axles for crawlers. Search for crawler or live axle. -ED- Edit: The axles in the crawler and the Unimog are live axles utilizing torque tubes. There are also other types of live axle, for example a 4 link system.

I think citadel paint for miniatures works better as they are supposed to be used and will get smacked together quite a bit. I find it very scratch resistant, specially it there is a clear coat on top. But I have never tried to spray paint with it, and don't know if it will work. I am all for painting things like rims, tracks and similar, but I enjoy the challenge of building within the quite limited Lego range and will probably not paint any other parts as there is a chance of corrupting connection points, and it reduces the reusability (is that a word?) of the part. -ED-

Using a loop of string/rope connected to your lift/doors and through a pulley system on a motor you would get full control of both up and down motion. By using a counterweight you could make it a lot easier on the motor, and a mini motor might be enough, and that would save space. To control it with a dial/crank you could simply put a axle through a PF switch and hide the switch while you connect the crank to the axle. Using mini motors should make it a lot easier to hide the whole contraption. If you give us pictures we can probably help with the design and make examples for you to implement... -ED-

Great work so far. I really loved the RPA 15. But the cost... I could never do something like this simply because of the price. Will you get room to fit a engine mock up inside this? -ED-

Using pneumatic cylinders with all inlets and all outlets interconnected is a well know use for suspension systems. For your use I think this will work very well, but it does not have the adjust-ability of the system i suggested. I was thinking of how this could be realized before i got to sleep yesterday, and will make a new proof of concept. I may post it as a new thread when it's done if i can find the time. I am very interested to see your implementation, so please keep up the good work, and keep us updated. -ED-

How about using the small pneumatic cylinders, and hiding a automatic compressor with an adjustable pressure switch inside the trailer? All you would need is a system to change the pressure switch based on level of load, and a power connection to the truck. I'm testing out a similar system, but with a motor controlling the pressure switch through a 24:1 gearing. when I want to raise the vehicle I simply run the motor for a short interval, and the compressor starts up again, and runs til it has the correct pressure, at the same time leveling of the vehicle at higher level. It needs a bit of work, but i have a proof of concept. Tuning rubber bands for the pressure switch is not easy, and making the system automatic should be quite a challenge... Unfortunately i have only limited time to build and design, so I will probably not get time to make a MOC with such a system. It would however be nice to see it applied in your excellent MOC. -ED- EDIT: Included link.

I have to say it again; This is gorgeous! What are the springs on the rear axles of the truck? And is the front suspended as well? -ED-