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TechnicSummse

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Everything posted by TechnicSummse

  1. TechnicSummse
    Connected by axle or gears doesnt matter. By the way.. i connected 2/2 so... 2 motors on each side are connected by axle, and this axle is connected to the gear on one side. I am using cheapest batteries i could find... 1,59€ for a pack of 8 batteries. Alkaline ones. Do you have a video wich shows your problem... until now i can only imagine that one of those 4 motors is rotating in the opposite direction.
  2. TechnicSummse
    Well... as you saw yourself, you drove ~17 kph... we are doing 30+... so there is a lot of power left with those small wheels... at the end you would need to gear up those wheels like 3 time higher, then i need to gear a motorcycle wheel. Ending in 3 times higher axle friction at the same speed. And tire-size doesnt really matter, since you must see it just as a part of the total gear ratio. The smaller the wheel, the higher you must gear for the same speed. The same counts for torque. So using small tires just adds axle-friction without any benefit ;) By the way... the balloning tire rotatet at ~2300rpm... with this wheel-size i would need 2600 rpm to reach my wished 40 kph... so it rotatet even slower then it would be needet...
  3. TechnicSummse
    @rkkm Gearing buggy motors works verry well. I am using mine upgeared 2,25:1 on my latest 4 motor-speed-racer with 94,2 tires. You could even run them 2,5:1 with the 108mm claas-wheels. The higher you are gearing, the lower is the acceleration, but top speed increases. Until a specific top speed, wich depends on many facts, like rolling resistance, air resistance, axle friction and so on.... This means, the higher you gear, the longer your track must be to reach the full speed. Not sure, what you exactly did with your gearing, wich wheels, and so on... I could imagine, you maybe wired 1 buggy-motor in opposite direction? so 3 faught vs 1? Fast output has less torque... thats right... but you are upgearing anyway... so will loose more torque with the gearing. If you use the low output, you need to gear higher for the same result, wich means, you will end with the same torque at the same end rpm... no matter if fast or slow output is used. BUT... if you use the low output, you have some more friction losses, because you need to drive one more (internal) gear. By the way... check my signature ;)
  4. TechnicSummse
    Nice to hear :D Same here... i just was at vacations, but i will start rebuilding soon. Today my present to my self arrived.... another 8366-set :D So i can test now the difference of powering 3 motors from 1 or from 2 units. Also this means i own 6 motors now... and i will build a 6 motor car... but far far in the future. For now i will rebuild until i reached the 40 kph with just 4 motors. I will make a post in my topic later, with some pictures
  5. TechnicSummse
    Everything worked fine this time. -> win7 professional, chrome including adblocker
  6. TechnicSummse
    There are also other facts you mentioned your other post but forgot here. One big point is the axle/bearing-friction, wich increases dramaticaly with higher rpm(smaller wheels). Another point, wich only shows on high speeds is tire ballooning, like you can see in my video below: We testet many wheels and it seems the one and only working wheel for our purpose is the newer motorcycle racing tread wheel.
  7. TechnicSummse
    Well... i was pretty sure, it is a technic part, thats why i postet it here. But thank you for the link :)
  8. TechnicSummse
    oh wow... 0.04€ :D And i thaught it is something special Thank you!
  9. TechnicSummse
    Can someone help me to identify this part? I got it some time ago together with many other parts i baught. I tried to find it on rebrickable, to sort it to my partlist, but i can't find this thing. It is NOT listed as a beam... It looks like a 16 stud long beam (15 pinholes), but at one end there are 2 studs on each side. Who has a partnumber, or a bricklink-link for me?
  10. TechnicSummse
    I can submit my vote without anything selected. No matter if something is selected or not, i click to submit, and i get such a rotating loading circle for a short time After that the complete poll-thing disappears and it shows "thank you for your vote" for about 1 second. Then the complete topic looks like a regular topic without poll. The same happens, after refreshing (and beeing able again to vote) if i click to "show the result" but without the "thank you for your vote"-message.
  11. TechnicSummse
    If you need to gear up the XL-motors... would'nt it be better to use only L-motors? L-motors are almost as strong as the XL-motors if you compare them at the same rpm. But if you need upgearing, you can take directly the higher rpm L-motors. Use 3 L-motors instead of 2 XL-motors and you should have more torque at the same space, and you loose less torque from gearing.
  12. TechnicSummse
    Oh... evryone means this part, if talking about "pin with pinhole"? I thaught there would be an item like this but with a pinhole instead of the axlehole at the end: https://m.rebrickable.com/media/cache/f3/1b/f31b15194daf78c33a5cf5f4e11fb740.jpg
  13. TechnicSummse
    I have read this "pin with pinhole" a few times now... but i dont really know, what it is. There is no item on rebrickable or bricklink, if i search for this. Do you have a partnumber for me?
  14. TechnicSummse
    Really clever design. But can it steer?
  15. TechnicSummse
    If using all this at the same time, you would need ~5 battery boxes. And yes... overload protection shuts down... the battery-box-led will also shut off. But some temperature can be totally normal. When running my speed record models, more then 1 minute, batteries are really hot at the end. You should try 2 things... first try another battery box, does it also heat up the same way? Second...connect 2 L-motors or XL-motors to one battery-box, and block them -> battery-box-led should shut off after ~5 seconds. If both things are ok, everything should be fine.
  16. TechnicSummse
    This is wrong!!! The old boxes glow darker... the new ones are glowing brighter. AND they also have a current limit... guys are guessing it is something about 1000mA... but it could also be the same 750, then in the old version. The new one can not even support a single buggy-motor for more then 5 seconds, if the motor has some load. TLG says:
  17. TechnicSummse
    I didnt know arduino so far, but if i think about this... if there are some guys using electronics combined with lego... why should they buy a brick wich they could solder themselve? I think if someone can use a arduino-board, he can also solder 4 wires to a motordriver. The only plus i see here, is the really nice design of the brick-hull. Or do i miss something here?
  18. TechnicSummse
  19. TechnicSummse
    I also like the concept... really clever. But as @Marxpek and @mocbuild101 allready said... there wont be any benefit of the KERS-system at our purpose. What we could do, also to increase top speed, would be something what will be released at top speed. For example wind up a few pullback-motors, and activate their power with a micromotor controlled by the auxillary output of the rc-unit, right before the top-speed with e-motors is reached. The problem here is, to not loose any power while driving with the electrical motorpower... for example the use of a ratchet would not work. It would work, for example if the rear axle (driven axle) can rotate freely by the e-motor-power, and the micromotor would move an arm (beam) with an additional gear, connecting the drivetrain to the pulback-motors and release them at the same time. But im not sure, how much power they really have, compared to a buggy-motor.
  20. TechnicSummse
    Are you sure, that it is not just the wear, what differs them? You made many runs with yours allready... and the one you baught was probably not a single time driven by a motor, or used outdoors?
  21. TechnicSummse
    I hoped something else ... but i thaught it would be the same then by me. Hmm.. how can i see wich ones i have... or how can i be sure to get the right one, if i will buy one? I also wanted to order a 3rd one for my steering... but now im not sure how to get the right version. I think what i actually have are the "grey" ones?
  22. TechnicSummse
    Oh, sorry... i did not see, this will be a c-model.
  23. TechnicSummse
    Nice idea... i like the real vehicle :D What about one of those wheels? I think they should fit better: The first one should fit your scale... for the second one, you would need some rescaling i think. Edit: You could maybe try to fit the Claas-tires to one of those rims: Ive got all those rims+ Claas-tire... ill try this at the evening :)
  24. TechnicSummse
    Really nice :) I like it
  25. TechnicSummse
    I had a few of such crashes... but until now the RC-stuff was ok allways... just broken beams/connectors/gears Lots for sale -> 0 It seems everything else is ok. If i have some time... i'll rebuild this evening. I will try to build 2 studs smaller ... and the battery-box at the end of the car. I think with this model, i am really on the right way to 40+
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