TechnicSummse

Can you fit any tire to this?

I have some news again At the beginning the really good news...i found some superglue, and the lost plastic-noses (they were inside the rc-unit). And it seems to be pretty stable again. Yesterday i built a simple testbench to compare my buggymotors under load. The load can be adjusted with the rubberband. I testet all 6 motors and found 1 motor wich was really worse then the other 5. While 5 motors were in the ~1100 rpm-range (+- 10 rpm), the 6th motor did only 1020-1040 rpm. This is 7% less power... means, i wont use this motor for my 4 motor-car anymore. This evening i started to build again. First i will try to build a usefull steering with the 94,2 motorcycle front wheel. At first i wanted basicly copy the steering system wich @Marxpek used at his latest build. But then i decided to keep the idea of my known setup and change it to be able to house the big wheel. Below a few pictures of the first try... i defenetly will rework this, but its a start :) Finally a picture wich i HAD to take, while those motors were laying on the ground... it just does look so good :D

The Lego RC-system uses PWM-signals, if i remember correctly, wich differs from regular rc-stuff signals.

Hmm... i dont think its only a date. Especially because the second digit seems to be allways a 0,2,3. I thaught one of the digits could be a code for production location for example. (1= city x, 2=city y), or product version... ive heard there are different inner setups of the receiver for example?

defenetly no... please see the pictures in my post... the numbers are "stamped" into the parts after the production. And on my 6 motors (all the same partnumber 5292) are 5 different numbers stamped. Thank you... so we could assume, the last digit is the productions year

Can you tell me the remote-stamp also? Could you check your steering unit(s) also for a stamp please? Edit: Seems like i am blind

Still waiting for the pictures

1 worked... 2 does NOT

Hmm... the price is ok i think. I was allways looking for bargains... got my first 8366 for 65€ including shipping and my latest one now with box for 70€ incl. shipping. My 2 motors i got ~20€ each including shipping. But i have to say, that i was looking for one of the 3 sets (8366,8376,8475) now for about half a year to find such a prize. but i also missed 2 ebay-auctions, where they were sold for 55-60€+ shipping. Is it the rc-unit with auxilarry-output? You could send me a personal message with a picture or link maybe... i wont steal your offer... got enough rc-stuff now :D

Hmm.. while sorting the parts, i found another strange thing...see the picture below... The steering-unit from my latest set is unstamped, but the one from the 8366 wich i owned allread IS stamped 4373 . What about your steering-units? Stamped, unstamped? Wich number is stamped there, compared to the RC-unit/buggy-motor?

Hmm ok... so this is not a serial number...so as it seems to look now... the second and the 4th digit are allways 2 or 3? Anyone has a different number then x2x2, x2x3, x3x3, x3x2? I think one of those could be production year, as said above... the other one could tell wich model? 1-> buggy, 2-> supersonc, 3-> hot flame? But this doesnt count for the 5 digit stamped motor i got. So... anyone also got a 5 digit one (with or without a letter?) and if so... does it also have the cover with the crossed dustbin on the side? If you got one... do you know from wich set it came?

Hey guys... while disassembling my newest purchase 8366 RC Supersonic Racer, i was pretty much surprised, when i looked at the serial numbers of the rc-parts. As you can see in the following images, there is the same number on ALL 4 electronical parts (each motor, the RC-unit and the remote). RC-unit motor 1+ motor 2 remote At my first 8366-set there was a different number on each part, as you can see in the following images: rc unit motor 1 motor 2 remote Does this mean, that my first model was put together from different sets? Or did they simply mix the parts at a special date of the production? Also i see a 5-digit serial number on one of my additionally bought motors, wich also includes a letter and not just numbers. Another special thing about this motor is the motorcover on the side, as you can see in the following pictures. I guess the 5-digit one is the newest, maybe out of a 8287 Motorbox-set, or a 8421 Mobile Crane-set? seperatly bought motor serial number 225K8 serial number 6292, 3282, 1263, 5383 Does anyone have more detailled information about all this?

When do we get the pictures?

Thank you :) I had a few times headace while building :D I added an image of what inspired me for the chassis. Most of the snowmobiles have just 1 driven rear-track, wich had been impossible to build with the parts including in this set...basicly because there are no gears...wich makes it required to place the motor directly on one side of the drving wheel. But while searching trough the web, i found this picture and thought: "Yes, this is what i was looking for" :D

This is my first "published" c-model. It took me the last 2-3 weeks in total to build it. It was one of the reasons, why i paused on my speed-racer :) When my daughter (5) baught this model (42065 Tracked Racer), she wanted a lego rc car wich she could play with. But since the steering with the 2 tracks is pretty complicated and too hard for her, i decided to build a model with a regular steering from the set. I was thinking about building a halftracked vehicle at first, but then i decided to build a snowmobile. It was a really hard way, because of really limited amount of parts in this set (369) and the fact, that there is not a single gear included in the set . All in all i think i totally rebuildet the model 3-4 times until the current result. I still dont like it 100%, but its ok to play with for my daughter, and i need time for my own project again :) What funtions does it have?: - PF drive + steering - pendular front suspension - working handlebar (can be used as HOG) - virtual "differential" aka linear clutch at the rear axle for better steering. Motor drives left side front of the tracks, right side is connected with the clutch at the rear axle. - seat acts as PF-on-switch. A driver sitting down on it will move the battery-box to "on"-position :) -> you can see it in the video Here you can see the linear clutch in the middle of the "rear axle" footrests size comparision leftover parts Technically the chassis idea is based on something like this.

@jam8280 The car in the fridge made my day :D Hmm maybe its a normal behaviour... i never tried mine at temperatures over ~28°C. But allway on flat asphalt. I think others could help here?

You are right... the battery-light should turn off then. Hmm.. but thats really strange then... maybe your motor is used to much, and the thermistor is kind of damaged? Because as wrote earlier, even with 2:1 geared claas wheels i couldnt trigger the motors protection. And this is really hard work to push ~900g with 2:1 upgeared claas wheel. Did you try another motor? At wich temperatures did you do your runs? 30°C and more? By the way... the protection should recover really fast (~10-15 seconds max)

I am just impressed, by how fast you are creating new models

Well i personally DID regearing with every other small thing i changed, including wheels. I startet (like @Marxpek also did) with the 108mm claas xerion wheel and testet different gearings until i reached top speed with it. They require for sure a lower gearing then the 94.2mm motorcycle wheels. As comparasion: - The Claas Wheel has the best results with an upgearing of 1,666:1 (20:12) at the highspeed output. If you gear it lower, you will gain acceleration, but loose speed... if you gear it higher (2:1 for example), you will loose acceleration AND speed, since there is not enough torque left, to reach the 50% NLS. - The 94.2 motorcycle wheels seem to have the best performance with an upgearing in the 2:1 range. (there are at least 2 reasons for this... first the wheel diameter, wich can be calculated as part of the gearing, as i wrote before, AND the lower rolling resistance) The rubber of those (class and motorcycle) wheels seem to be pretty much the same HARD rubber. It seems there is NO other usable wheel then one of those, because other wheels are much smaller and have softer rubber, wich causes more rolling resistance and ballooning. But for sure, there are also other things wich influence the perfect gearing, like amount of motors, weight, axle bearings (amount of beam-holes the axle goes trough) and so on. No, because you could also use a lower gearing with the big wheels to reach this. As mentioned before, use a 1.666 upgearing with 108mm claas wheels instead of a 2.0 upgearing I did not while my runs... just with stalling tests. I bet it was not the motor thermistor, but the current limiter of the batterybox. All regular lego battery boxes have a built in protection, wich limits current to ~700mA. The old 9V boxes current limit is even lower. The only real power suply for buggy motors is the RC-unit. Keep in mind, one single buggy motor has a stalled current of ~3,5A. Wich means you would need at least 2 battery boxes paralleled to fully suply just 1 buggy motor.

I am thinking about breaking my old record there... maybe i can get a 35,xx -36 kph? :D At the end i think its way more boring to build a 6 motor car, then a 2 motor-car. I think there wont be many people wich could join the 6 motor-competition. And as it seems, we could have some more competion soon with @rkkm and @jam8280. I would love to see a few tries from "new" people with different thinkings :)

Hmm... i had 3, and all worked fine. I baught 3 incomplete 8082 Universal-Building sets for 22-28€ each. At the end i had 2 complete sets... the leftover parts+ one complete set i sold again, and 1 set i kept. 2 of the 3 Motors were glued allready, but i didndt care about that, since it doesnt matter for regular use. You can buy working micromotors on Bricklink for ~15€.

I had a pause on this the last month. First i was building some other stuff, and last 3 weeks i was at vacation :) But now i will start working on this again. Some news to this... new "parts" arrived: So i finally own a second RC-unit . I also baught 2 additional 94.2 Motorcycle tires, so i can try a big frontwheel-setup now. A lot of things to do now... i can compare now 3 motors beeing powered from 1 RC-unit vs 2 rc-units. Also i can compare my current frontwheel vs the motorcycle-wheel. I will also compare the weight of the RC-unit vs battery-box+ micromotor+ 9v-switch. This will bring some new facts wich will help me to find the right way to the 40kph with 4 motors. Another thing is.... i own 6 buggy-motors now... you can guess what... i defenetly will build a 6 motor-version in the future ;) But this will take a while... i wont start on this as long as i did not reach the 40 kph with 4 motors. Tomorrow i will start building again, and also post some new pictures then.

3rd picture in this post

Well the range of a working RC-unit is about 50m... i think this is pretty ok. The servo is pretty good for regular use... me, @Marxpek and @mocbuild101 are using it without the steering unit. You should look how @Marxpek added the hockey-spring as additional return to center helper. But all in all there are way better things then the lego ones.. thats right... but the RC-Racers-Stuff is the best lego ever made.... and keep in mind... its ~15 years old. Im w8ing for your pictures... pretty interested what happened there :)

hmm... sbrick and custom batt-box :( Then you could just get some Rc-motors. Can you post me a few pics? especially closeup pics from the gearing/motor-part?