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TechnicSummse

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Everything posted by TechnicSummse

  1. TechnicSummse
    It seems... someone allready did that... when i postet my picture... there were 3 BL shops with 8-15 of them for 2-3€... they are gone now... I was thinking about ordering a few... but i got 4 steering units, if i really need such a part... and i didnt want to spend ~50€ to have some unused parts laying arround :(
  2. TechnicSummse
    exactly :) When i got a spare one with a rc-unit i baught, i wondered how these grey parts left+right are connected to the upper pinholes... and i disassembled the steering unit. What you see in the picture is the part wich fixes the suspension arms. It lays loose in the casing, and got its own part-id, like all other regular beams. I was pretty much surprised, this part has 3 pinholes, but you can only use 2 of them at the outside of the steering-unit... one is hidden unused inside the casing.
  3. TechnicSummse
    Wow, really nice. So many functions in such a tiny model... and it even looks good
  4. TechnicSummse
    Today i found this part... the part number isn't known to bricklink or rebrickable... but i know where it is from :) Do you think it could be useful in some places? And if so... what could you use it for? Basicly it is a 4x3 T-beam.
  5. TechnicSummse
    Boss Hoss... Dodge Tomahawk -> V10 ;)
  6. TechnicSummse
    does not work :(
  7. TechnicSummse
    Well... i will defenetly try it at the evening :) After seeing your idea now.. i am thinking about using this, instead of the 3l-stop-axle, to eleminate the wobbling: But you would need a pinhole instead of an axle-hole on the connector on wich the driving ring sits...
  8. TechnicSummse
    Thank you alot... both ideas are pretty much the same, and look really good to me :) The weak point here, in both ideas, seems to be the point where the axle with stop meets the connector(s axle). Will it be strong enough when shifted? And doesnt it wobble to much when it is unshifted? I will defenetly test your idea @Doug72 at the evening, when i'm at home. It is nice to see, the stop of the axle adds exactly the space wich the bush/gear-connection comsumes... i was thinking all the time, how to add just such a lottle space... you had the right idea :)
  9. TechnicSummse
    Ah... i thaught so... but i just tested it, like in your picture, where the stud is in the 16t-gear. I don't own a driving ring extension, thats why i cannot test it the other way. But if i think about it...like that... ...the Stud of the 3l-stud axle will collide with the 2l axle of the extension ring? And will force the 16t gear to sit a bit (the wide of the stud on the axle) away from the driving ring... which will give a bad connection, when shifted? No problems like described above? And also no problems, that the driving ring while shifting will push the 16t gear+bush in the direction of the bush... and like this free the bush from the connection?
  10. TechnicSummse
    The small ring on the side of the stud makes it impossible for the teeth of the half-bush to mesh with the small teeth of the 16t-clutch-gear :(
  11. TechnicSummse
    yes.. in know this... but they will be smaller then 2 stud together when the teeth are fit together... and they can slide out again... how do i prevent this?
  12. TechnicSummse
    First idea is not in line and needs moving gears, this is what i wanted to avoid. Second idea i also tried... but... how to fix the half bush+ clutch gear, to make sure they dont move in opposite direction and loose the connection to each other?
  13. TechnicSummse
    I need to check that.... nice idea :) Thank you
  14. TechnicSummse
    This will be pretty much the same, then the 3-axle-part. The axle on this part is 1,5 studs long... so it will be 0,5 stud too long. I could cut it , or the 2 arms of the 3-axle connector... but i dont like cutting Legos. But thank you for your suggestion... its pretty close to what i will need :) Any other ideas?
  15. TechnicSummse
    I need a linear clutch for 1:1 transmission, like in real car gearboxes 4th or 5th gear. Additionally there need to be a possibility to drive the wheel with a second gear. I found 2 solutions... but both have theire own problems: First solution... turntable+ differential... the 24 teeth-side of the differential is fit to the 24 inner teeth of the turntable. + turntable can hold the wheel, chassis can be fixed at the black part of the turntable + easy way to add a second gear by using the 16t of the differential - a lot of friction from turntable - to wide for a good use Second solution: 16t clutch-gear blocked by 2 outer fixed 16t gears. + wheel is held directly inside + close to no friction - hard to find a way to connect the second gear... thats why the 40t gear is there - even bigger then the turntable I would need a 4t-gear to fix the 16t clutch-gear withing the 24t turntable, or any other solution, how this could be built smaller... The Differential, and the 16t gear are the only ones with clutch, right? Who has an idea? I am up to everything :)
  16. TechnicSummse
    I need something like in the picture below. But the pin with pinhole should not rotate within the pinhole of the connector. The axle will rotate, and the pin with pinhole is used to push a lever... it works... but sometimes the pin with pinhole will rotate, and there will be a problem... Another idea wich could work would be the following...: But the Problem here are the 2 unused arms of the connector...
  17. TechnicSummse
    I would need a special piece, and i don't know, if it exists... maybe you could help me. What i need is something like this, but with 2 axle-holes instead of 1 axle- 1 pin-hole: I thought i could use this... but this one has the wrong angles: Any idea, wich part i could use?
  18. TechnicSummse
    Is this silver panel from the "red beast" set? And if so... do those things fit to regular pinholes?
  19. TechnicSummse
    Rotate one of the gears by 360/teeth/2 degres= 360/12/2=15°
  20. TechnicSummse
    Thats it... i have the problem on exactly those connectors :( But luckily the bord is clean... its just the connectors. I think i will try it with a cotton stick and vinegar, and see what happens :) Thank you for the hint
  21. TechnicSummse
    Hmm... i used a screwdriver to scratch it away, and some sandpaper after that. Sadly you cannot take them out... the contacts can only be removed to the batteries side... but the board is soldered to the contacts from top. So i would need to unsolder the board from the batterybox to be able to remove contacts :( Should i put some vinegar to it, maybe with a cotton-stick?
  22. TechnicSummse
    One of mine...8366 for 32€ :)
  23. TechnicSummse
    i didnt know that Well... to my latest 8366... im pretty happy at the end. This is how it arrived...dirty and NOT working :( First i cleaned the RC-units battery-contacts, and tested it with a pair of pf leds. The steering seemed to work, but the 3rd power-step (full power) did not work... the leds were like: glowing a bit, brighter, dark... When testing them at the auxilary output, everything was fine. So i made the same test with my old remote... and HEY... everthing worked fine :) So i took a look into the remote... and i found a broken cable at the drive potentiometer. I soldered it and glued it to the circiut board. And... again... Yeah! ... it works. At the end i removed the leds... and tested it with the motors, you can see the result in the video below: So... 32€ and the last two days of free-time to work on it... and i am a happy guy Oh... is this still unmodifed lego now? :D To Topic: I was testing my suspended version 2 days ago at the evening... with the result of a big crash again (it was dark, and the street still wet... not a good combination) :( Steering was still sh**... so i started rebuilding again... but last 2 days went to the new 8366 repairing... Also the weather is so f***ing bad... its raining for about 1 week now... and it seems the weather will stay like that for the next few days :(
  24. TechnicSummse
    A "new" 8366 arrived
  25. TechnicSummse
    It was just announced as "lego rc car"... in the description he wrote, it's a toy from the late 80's or early 90's. Well... it has been sold as non working... but at the end...just one working motor would be worth the price... so i could not do anything wrong here i think :D Maybe i will get a gopro in the next month... i heared they have included gps in some versions... I will not enter TC12... i think i don't have the modeling skills for such things... i am more technically... looking for working solutions wich seem not possible to solve... I don't know how many versions i disassembled before they were tested, just because of the weather... I wish you good luck :) Any chance to see some of you progres in the last months?
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