TechnicSummse
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[MOC] Soda machine
TechnicSummse replied to blaz62's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Nice idea, i like it :D But i think you should add some more pumps, for example something like this: or this? -
GPS says its ~27 km/h max Yes... and... you should not forget wheels themselve are absorbing a lot Rubberbands are the GPS-Phone-holders :D You can see this in the record-racer viedo at the end... look at the gps/speedcomputer comparing-pictures there ;)
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Thats the point... at the end evry thing shown in a video could be cheatet :( Sadly i dont have hard sprigs, but i dont think it would help... because: I did so many different comparing-runs at different speeds with GPS and Speed computer... wich gave me all pretty much the same results. If there would be a wheel-spinning-problem at higher speeds, the gap between speed-computer and GPS would be growing with speed... the speed computer would show much higher results, the higher the speed is... but IN FACT it is not like that ;) So i guess there is close to no spinning.
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You describe a problem wich i had some times :D _______________________________________________ Last pics for today... rebuilded the whole thing, pretty similar to my record racer. Not driven yet, but i defenetly need another bearing between the wheels... axle bends to much like this right now. Also ground clearance could make some problems at the battery-box like this
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Wow... if i see some of the working places here, i'm just envious. But on the other side.. im glad to see, that i am not the only one, building on the floor :D
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I am like a car technician... sadly i dont know the exact description of my job in english. Some one told me it would be "chief mechanic" but this doesnt fit 100%. The word by word translation would be "mechanic master" ... i lead a garage, and i educate young people at this job ;) What i am guessing is the following: The magnets you was talking about are the anti locking break-system-sensors. They are attached to ALL wheels. Newer cars also use them for speed meassuring... with newer i would say something like since 2005-2010. Older cars use a flexible speedometer-crank (hope this is the right word in english) attached to the gearbox-output, or a hall-sensor attached at the gearbox-output.
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The weather-thing sounds known to me ... sad to hear :( I will try different gearings now... the 24:8 was just a easy to build-solution to save beams an take the motors themselves as frame for the wheels. When trying the exactly same gearing at my 2 motor-model i just reached ~33 km/h... so maybe the motor is still full powered...if you compare it 2 motor vs 3 motor with this gearing, its a plus of ~3,5km/h ... not sure if full power only gives 3 km/h... As long as you cannot record the currents while running... this is all just guessing :( Color MAKES cars faster... or what do you think... why most of the sportcars are red? :D Red= +20% Topspeed Well you are right... color doesnt really matter... but i like to keep this thing looking ok... thats why i also try to build symetrical...
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My ears (eyes) are wide open... ;) I would like to hear, where you see the room? Are there any smaller big-size-wheels? Do you see any way to use less then 3 studs axle-beam-friction-bearings? Any other ideas? -> feel free to let us know your suggestions... id love to hear them ->
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:D You wanna explain me my job? At older cars it is attached to the gearbox-output... meaning at the driven wheel... no matter if FWD or RWD ;) Newer cars meassure with the anti-lock braking system-sensors... some systems just take 1 sensor for meassuring...others take the average of all sensors. At motorcycles it is also attached at the rear wheel mostly. Just real old bikes using a manual speedo attached to the front wheel. But you are right... this is not an argument... my argument is simply the 1:1 comparing vs gps in more then 30 runs wich gave a max-difference of +/- 0,3 km/h. Suspension would mean more weight again, and traction should not be a problem with this gearing, especially, since ~80% of the weight rests on the rear-axle, but i thaught about that.. i had 1 model using using springs...
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This defenetly would be the best way to meassure. But as you say... it must be a specific point on the track (mostly the end) where you sure reached the top speed, to not meassure the average speed. But you would need a good high-speed-camera, to get accurate meassurings here. I guess my cam would not do a good job here :D ________________________________________________________________________________________________________ To the current progress: Today i didnt have any good results :( Since the 3+1 Motors gave some nice results, i thaught downsizing could be a good idea... so i removed 1 motor+battery-box+ micromotor+ switch... to end with a light 730g 3-motor-model. But sadly this didnt bring any good results... as you can see in the following pictures It is still faster then only 2 Motors... but as it seems, the rc unit doesnt fully support the 3rd motor. Little question... do you also like the orange rims? Or do you prefer the dark grey ones? :D
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I was allready thinking of this. But they cost about 20€ again. At the moment i will try to stay with the elements i got here, and see how far it could bring me. "Dude", please dont be so childish ;) At first this is just a "while in progress" video, and no "official" record. At second... i told you i compared the speed computer with the 1 second mode gps... and yes yesterday again i made some runs with gps-phone... first runs without phone-> 37,9-38,5 attached gps-phone ->36,3 / speed computer 36,2... after removing the phone (weight) i went again in the 38's Yesterday you wrote the following to this.... ... but you do it again now ;) No matter if slipping, to big or to small set wheelsize or whatever... while comparing with gps it gives me allways the same results then the gps... so evrything is compensatet in this measuring. By the way... if you have a speed computer... try to fast spin a wheel attached to it by hand... what you will see is less then 1 km/h... short, even verry fast spins dont increase the speed computers counter. And even if my wheel would jump all the way... the wheelmass prevents fast accerelations wich could cause your feared problem. And the next thing... do you have a car, or a motorcycle? Maybe an old one? What do you think at wich wheel the speedo is attached to? -> right... the driven wheel ;) And why? Because the slipping will just appear in lower gears, while in high gears and high speeds there is close to no slipping. ___________________________________________________________________________________________________ Do you have any hard informatioins about that? I would love to see any experiments to proof that, or a circuit diagram of the rc-unit. I've searched all arround, and couldnt find any prooven information... just a lot of guesses :(
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Ok... so in in real life 700HP F1 cars race vs 20HP karts? ;) Thats the reason why there are different classes. To compare things on the same level. And for me, building LEGO-technic, is to reach a specific goal within a set frame. In this case, this will mean.. reaching higher speeds then someone else, with the same motorpower.
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Thank you :) Using the lower and the higher output allows to grade the gearing in smaller steps. While developing my 2-motor-racer, i was trying all possible gearings and jumping between high and low output while finding the perfect gearing. While using the high output only allows you the easy usage of 1,6666 / 2,0 / 2,5 and 3,0 gearing, with the lowspeed output you can go exactly between there with (compared to high output gearings) 1,48 / 1,85 / and 2,22 . I got a few of them :D And they are also pretty cheap, im not afraid of that. By the way, i made some loaded tests (not with amperemeter yet) and checked rotating speed... one times connecting the buggy-motor directly to the battery- box and the other time using an old 9V switch between there. It seems there is no difference in rotating speed, if using a switch or not... so it should take the current easily. If the switch would be to weak, its would be a resistor there and lower the speed. -> I am a little bit more afraid of frying my RC-unit with the 3rd buggy-motor attached there, since i couldnt find any informations about rc-units protection-system/max current. But what i realised here is... powering 3 (of 4) motors with it, is faster then powering 2 or 4. So there should be some room compared to 2 motors... but 4 motors is defenetly to much for the RC-unit.... or the batteries...
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Basicly @mwnilsson "opened" this category ;) But i picked it up, because i dont want a chalange like: who can buy the most buggy-motors/rc-parts, that would just be stupid. And i think its a good solution, to classify it by the amount of used motors/rc units, since then evryone "fights with the same weapons" ;)
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[WIP] 40+ km/h lego car Since i like to see some ideas and open discussions, i decided to make this project public. So lets start with the current progress: A few pictures of the first tries, with the following specs: - 4 motors, gearing 24:8 from low-speed-otput - 1 PF-battery-box, attached to an old 9V switch, controlling 1 of the 4 buggy motors. Switch is controlled by a micromotor powered with the auxilary output of the rc unit. - 3 motors powered with the RC unit - total weight (without speed computer, to stay below the magic number :D) -> 991g (1012g with the computer) 4th motor is used as a booster, activated with the auxiliary padels, once the car reached like 15 km/h Fresh video, done 1 hour ago ;) (38,7 km/h) ->
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I will give you a better proof here in the next video ;) You will see my result, when i reached the 40km/h goal :D Until then ill try some different ways... but be sure ill stay on the "right" way ;)
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He uses 4 buggy motors and 2 RC units.... i only use 2 motors and 1 unit ;) My car is even faster then his first 4 motor version with only 1 RC unit... -> my 4 motor-version is in progress, no footage yet, but actual speed is 38+ ;) You are right and wrong at the same time ;) The limit is 12 - - But its not studs what you set there... its Bricks height. You can set from 2 to 12 bricks in plate-thick-steps... (2 --- would be the same as 3) hope you understand the description.. ill search some video to this. @Sariel: Look here... the original instructions... you can see it in the lower half of the page: http://belay.peeron.com/scans/id/2968/2/
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Finally i found some time to present you my latest MOC here. -> the 34,8 km/h black speed record racer It is the fastest 2-motor LEGO-rc-car until now (june 2017). While developing i was aiming for the highest speed you could reach with only 2 buggy-motors. To reach the goal, i had to: - reduce weight as much as anyhow possible - reduce the rolling resistance as much as possible (using only 3 as thin as possible wheels [only frontwheel could be better for indoor use: 2815 + 4185, but doesnt work outdoors]) - reduce axle-beam friction; just 3 studs in total (5 to protect the motor bearings) - find the best gearing - reduce air-resistance, and keep center of gravity as low as possible -> so here are the specs: Including panels in studs: length 55 , wide 21, height 12 (wheels) -> weigth: 650gChassis only (ready to race) : length 42 , wide 21, height 12 (wheels) -> weigth: ultralight 621g (without speed computer)Ground clearance: 0,5 studsGearing: 2:1 up at the fast output of the buggy-motorsTop speed: 34,8 km/h I know some of you dont trust the LEGO-speed-computer, so i also didnt at first. I startet measuring with gps with my heavy weighted mobile phone (more then 150g), but i didnt like the idea, to add 25% of weight to the model just for speed meassuring. Thats why i decided to buy a speed-computer (21g) [ could get one for 15€] just to try how accurate it is. And SURPRISE... it is really really accurate. I made a lot of comparing runs with GPS-phone (speedo app in 1 second mode) AND speed computer together attached to the car. The biggest difference i could ever meassure was 0,3km/h. You can see some pictures of this at the end of my video. (In my next video i will make some videos of this, not just pictures). Here are some pictures and the building instructions as Lego-digital-designer-file: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8658/Summse/348-kmh-black-speed-record-breaker-worlds-fastest-remote-controlled-2-motor-lego-car/#comments I hope you like it :) TechnicSummse And finally here is the video :) -> Its the first video i ever made
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Well...yes, i am building a rc-model.... to break speed records... like MarxPek. With my latest 2motor-model i could break all records until this day. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMi6q4lFqjFCODHkZHmLHeg Even MarxPek's first 4 motor-record. But now he suplys his 4 buggy motors with 2 RC-units... and i am looking for a different way to support my coming soon 4 motor-version. I dont like to spend that much money and i also dont like using 2 RC-units in the same model. They are just to heavy, its hard to get a nice looking shape with 2 of them... and the biggest point is... i dont like to build in stuff wich will not be used at the end...(using 2 RC-units would mean 1 unused servo and 2 unused aux-outputs) But again it seem to look like the RC-unit would be the only real way to power the RC-motors... By the way...there are a few models out there... using this: As you can see... the 9V batteries are really powerful, and also can support a few motors for some time. This is known so far... but again... this is not 100%Lego... i would defenetly prefer to remove the protection Element in the original Lego Box, instead of using this one. But it seems there are people buying this...
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Well i think its hard to discuss what is cheating and what isnt... At the end... cheating is using any equipement or technique the opponent didnt want or could not use... In our case, this could include removing thermal protection... ...this could include using NI-ZN- AA-batteries (1,6-1,8V)... ...this could include using 2 RC-Units... ... this could include using different wheels... ... as long as there are no clear rules, you cannot say what cheating is, and what is not ;) Back to the topic... i have read some google-entrys... and it seems the 9v-blocks can deliver something like 3A or even more... well for sure... just a short time because of its capacity ;) And so i can conclude?: No one has testet the OLD protection element so far? If it was needet to use the 9V-box, you just removed the protection, or just used different battery-boxes?
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Thank you for tthe answers so far. Does anyone have any hard facts? I would like to see like: "it can support 200mA for 5 min, then it kicks in". If I understand you correctly, this old protection depends on time+current? So, you could take for example unlimited time (until battery is empty) like 100mA, because the protection element cools down faster, then it heats up at this current. But if you take for example 1000mA it would kick in within less then a second? And if taken 500mA it will last for like 1 minute? Do I understand this in the right manner? If so.... are there any values you could deliver to me? ... like time*current=xxx Again thank you for the help. @Marxpek Well i need fresh ideas... and i like to think outside the box ;)
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The 750mA there are on PF-elements... but im am asking for the OLD 9V battery-box 4760c01
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Hello :) Anyone of you got some imformations about the current limitation of the old 9V battery boxes 4760c01 ? [img=] I dont have one yet... but from some pictures i saw, it seem to have the same heat-protection-element then the 2847c01. How many amps does it supply, without kicking in the protection? Thanks for help :) Summse
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Hello, im Benjamin from germany. Im 31 years old, married, and i have a sweet 5 years old daughter. When im not building LEGO-technic models or mocs i usually repair cars :) I was thinking about joining here for some time... but didnt find the time until now ;) So... welcome to all. TechnicSummse (Benni) For those who are interested in... my latest moc, and my first video ever: