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ColletArrow

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by ColletArrow

  1. ColletArrow
    Well done, you've nailed the awkward angles of the prototype in LEGO form. They complement your trams superbly. Perhaps you should try to build up the road around the tracks, so they look inset like most real examples? It might be a bit expensive and awkward around curves, but I'm sure it will improve these beautiful models further.
  2. ColletArrow
    Very good, I like the shaping with the recesses. It feels a little plain, however. Perhaps add some drainpipes as @Dakar A suggested, or using the 1x2 brick with masonry pattern for the recessed section around the door to break up the smooth walls a bit. I also feel it needs more of an interior, it looks wrong to me without one! Well done on the model overall.
  3. ColletArrow
    That's a nice varied, pleasing street you've created there, out of MODed sets. Well done!
  4. ColletArrow
    I like the lower table so the bridge has something to cross, that's something seen less often in LEGO layouts. Do you have any intention to smooth the join between the levels with 'scenery'? Even just a brick-built harbour wall or something would make the scene feel more complete in my opinion. What's the girder bridge going to be used for? it looks pretty good.
  5. ColletArrow
    I preferred the loco when it was clean. In it's 'weathered' form, you can't easily see all the shapes and details, the mismatched colours are a little too distracting. The caboose, on the other hand, looks better weathered. I think that's because you've gone for a more subtle rusting, and the patches of off-colour are more contained as you say. My method for weathering is to simply use dirty bricks (I have a lot of them lurking at the bottom of my tubs) or mismatched colours, e.g. old dark grey with new dark-bluish grey or the different shades of yellow TLG seem to produce accidentally.
  6. ColletArrow
    How about 6536 cross block? Both it and it's older brother 42003 have proven very useful to me several times. And you can make an impossible structure out of three of them and three axle-pins !
  7. ColletArrow
    That's very good, and an ingenious combination of two parts. However, you have a lot of unused length there. Do you think you could shorten the XL motor housing, to make it easier to implement in a model?
  8. ColletArrow
    This is a beautifully simplistic yet realistic MOC. It clearly follows the prototype (and also my attitude toward building trains! ). Good job! I like the lights, too; they're clearly not TLG ones though. What did you use for them?
  9. ColletArrow
    Thanks @pirzyk! I was also going to add that in the case of steam locomotives, the larger driving wheels (the powered ones) are not all flanged as that would cause derailments on our tight LEGO curves. A typical configuration (as @M_slug357 mentioned above) for a 6-wheel (3-axle) loco is flanged-blind-flanged on each side, so that the front and rear flanged pair follow the rails whilst the blind pair in the middle overhangs or underhangs the curve (Is that even a word? ). However, the smaller leading and trailing wheels (unpowered) are all flanged, as they are mounted on bars so that they can swing from side to side and follow the tracks. I hope that makes sense. I'm not sure @Wolfman122 is building steam locos, though. If you are, the L-motor frames are an excellent starting point. If you want to build a modern diesel or electric loco, just use the train motor with the decorative side pieces, and a similar built-up one for the other end (there are plenty of examples of fake-motor-bogies in official sets, just look at a few instruction booklets for inspiration). It's much easier.
  10. ColletArrow
    I think the main difference here is that the L-motor frames are designed for use in steam locomotives, as they have large wheels. The train motor does indeed swivel as a bogie, and is typically used for diesel or electric locomotives.
  11. ColletArrow
    This is an excellent representation of the prototype, well done. I especially like the look of the portable generator - I may have to build one myself!
  12. ColletArrow
    You will need 16 curve tracks to make a circle. To make it more interesting, you could add straight tracks or points for passing loops and sidings. The mining layout sounds fun; I've tried something similar with 4204 The Mine.
  13. ColletArrow
    That's a very nice loco! I'd say it looks more like a passenger locomotive with the single cab, the type you'd find at both ends of a matching rake of coaches (or at least here in the UK). Of course, you can use it for whatever you like!
  14. ColletArrow
    I started with no train set, in fact I still don't have one. My first (and only) train 'set' was 7936 Level Crossing. I then bought the PF parts, including the train motor which includes train wheels helpfully. All my other train related parts were purchased through bricklink orders over time. So no, one does not require a train set such as 60052 to start a train collection. However, it may be helpful, as one can get a 'proper' layout set up sooner with a set.
  15. ColletArrow
    That's a very good use of technic beams and bricks to keep a solid base. As I think I said before, well done.
  16. ColletArrow
    These are fantastic models, well done. Many 'real' railway modellers would/should be envious of these, especially with those crisp vinyls. What do they look like inside and underneath? I know these angles are not normally viewed, but I'm just curious. I would love to see them running behind a loco; how well do they do in standard LEGO curves?
  17. ColletArrow
    This 'bot looks promising! I agree with Agrof, in that you should turn the tracks over. This is because you need stability provided by more points of contact with the ground, rather than the 'off-road' capabilities you have with the current track shape. Unless you intend to do off-road bot-battling !
  18. ColletArrow
    The details in this MOC are beautiful. I love the tangle of telegraph wires out the front; they look very realistic. I feel some items are a little out of scale, however, such as the tool rack above the bench and the thick pallets.
  19. ColletArrow
    This looks brilliant already! Are you going to add some other working features, such as motorised rollers or a crane or something? I feel they would really add to this mill. It's becoming another detail-packed build. Good luck!
  20. ColletArrow
    Simply beautiful. I like the lights everywhere, although perhaps the headlamp needs a yellow lens on it to take some of the harsh, blue hue out of it. The freight wagon looks excellent, but I feel the coaches are a little over-balanced; the body feels too big, or the bogies too small relative to each other. It has an excellent interior, however. Good job all round.
  21. ColletArrow
    I love this model. It's neat and clean, and yet contains all the PF and functions needed for playing well. Well done.
  22. ColletArrow
    I knew someone would have done...
  23. ColletArrow
    The two similar parts at the top are unfortunately simply rubber band holders, the part a rubber band would be attached to in a new set. A pretty useless part I feel; I don't think anyone ever used them in a MOC, but I could be proved wrong. The parts middle-left and top-right can be clipped together (with a host of other similar 'ratchet joint' parts) to form an angled joint that can be posed at set intervals. Useful for pose-able arms, hands, feet, small cranes etc.
  24. ColletArrow
    I love the playability of this MOC, and the technic-esque pendular axles and HOG steering. How about going all the way, and adding a driven fake engine somewhere?
  25. ColletArrow
    I have an M-motor with an intermittent cable fault, i.e. it will only run if the cable is held in a certain position. I also have an IR receiver whose top connection on the plug is deformed, meaning nothing can be stacked on top.
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