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ColletArrow

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by ColletArrow

  1. ColletArrow
    An excellent MOC, well done. The cones used for the bulge on top are effective, especially with the clean integration. Out of interest, why are there two sets of lights? Couldn't you have put lights in the upper pair too?
  2. ColletArrow
    Similar here, although my models have been hanging around for longer. Typically it will last until I scavenge parts such as a gearbox or pneumatic cylinder for another model. I have no idea how many parts are spare; I guess somewhere around 1,500 are unused at any time. It's a small technic collection at present, 42006 being my biggest set. Only 1 or 2 (pushing it) technic MOCs can be built at a time, but parts may be stolen from elsewhere.
  3. ColletArrow
    The truck looks a lot better with 3 axles. I do think however the trailer hitch should be closer to the cab. Would this be possible?
  4. ColletArrow
    To test ideas out, you could print some designs from a word document and blu-tack it on. That way you can see if it looks any better, and work out how to do it properly later once you're happy with the design. There's someone here who made decals for a Siemens Taurus a while ago, I'll have a look for the thread.
  5. ColletArrow
    The 'face' of this loco is excellent, and I love the upside-down battery box solution. That's ingenious. I feel it's sides are a bit plain at the moment; are you going to put some decals on it with company logo etc?
  6. ColletArrow
    This is a simply beautiful, mesmerizing motion, similar to the (slightly annoying) effect that Blakbird mentioned above of two flashing lights with not-quite-synced frequencies, so sometimes they both flash at the same time and sometimes alternately, but most of the time somewhere in-between. Only difference being, you've got 9 swaying pods instead of two lights. You could put quite a display together now of unusual LEGO contraptions...
  7. ColletArrow
    Most of my orders have been pretty quick, but that's because I live in the UK and only order from stores in the UK, typically 1st class postage. I don't need the parts urgently, it's just satisfying when it all comes through.
  8. ColletArrow
    This is looking promising, I love the focus on mechanical solutions and subsequent minimal use of power functions. This should make it easier to hide the wires, as there are less of them! This is quite an entry, well done!
  9. ColletArrow
    That's a very clever, clean build. I love the integration of all the original functions in this smaller scale, especially the folding headlights. (I think I prefer the control being on the dashboard to the original model, it feels more intuitive.) Well done for pulling it all off!
  10. ColletArrow
    Much better. I wonder what it would look like in all yellow, as per the comparison image. I also think that you should try to lower the curves on the cab sides, as on the real thing they join onto the running plates without a step. Other than that, it makes for a good partner to the H10-44.
  11. ColletArrow
    @Thirdwigg Looking at the most recent picture, I think the front is the left (because a bison would lower it's head and charge, ramming into things like a bulldozer blade) and the right is the back (because Agrof calls the flipper-bits 'heels').The point is that it doesn't have a top; it works perfectly both ways up, which is a pretty cool design.
  12. ColletArrow
    I love that clock! The room feels richer now, with less empty wall space.
  13. ColletArrow
    Just copy and paste the URL into the text, the text turns into a video automatically! It's a beautiful little runner, as well. I can't get enough of it!
  14. ColletArrow
    Very good story-telling! For the hanging-room, I suspect you could make it work with a simple technic catch mechanism and a frictionless hinge on the door. I'll design one for you if you want!
  15. ColletArrow
    This is a very elegant 'bot, good job. I wonder how well it would fare in a real competition. I think it's main weakness would be the ground clearance - a flipper with a flat, strong blade may be able to get underneath it. Oh wait, it can drive when it's been flipped over completely... that's very cool. Good thinking!
  16. ColletArrow
    That looks excellent in the line! The recessed shop front/entrance goes together really nicely to break up the street a bit. I think the hanging barrels look a bit odd though, now. Perhaps a shallower dish would work better? (By the way, what is Emmet doing on the roof of the Brick Bank? )
  17. ColletArrow
    Maybe some clever usage of headlight bricks and 4599 tap pieces? The bricks could perhaps represent junction boxes in the system, where multiple pipes join up.
  18. ColletArrow
    That's some pretty big stuff you've got there! Have you got a layout to run them on, or do you display them elsewhere?
  19. ColletArrow
    That's a lovely rendition of the coach, and goes together with the Corbellini nicely. Well done.
  20. ColletArrow
    The under-passage is a great idea, especially for a 16-wide building. For the drains, I recommend you use the 3mm rigid hoses; they come in all sorts of lengths, and are slightly flexible. Have a look: here.
  21. ColletArrow
    Now this is interesting. I really enjoy shunting on my OO scale railway, and I have experimented with building locomotives with retracting magnets and so on, but this looks a much easier way of building a decent, working shunting yard without raising up the tracks. Have you any idea how much these would cost?
  22. ColletArrow
    Reading your first post, I was trying to figure out what you meant by the 6484 reference before I realised that the mass of tan-coloured parts was actually supposed to be white, and that is what you were referring too... oh dear. Never mind. I personally would try to de-yellow at least some of the sets. How well have the electric components, like the micro motor from 6484 held up over the years? Great find with the 8880 by the way, good to see it's in a better place now!
  23. ColletArrow
    Right, thanks. Seeing as my normal set-up is tiny, as in max 6 straights (including points) long or a temporary circle on the floor, I need a receiver in my trains. (Also due to this, my trains don't see a lot of continuous running ) Does this mean I would be better off splitting an extension cable and joining it with a 9v battery clip, as that would take up less space, save me buying a battery box and I would be altering the cable anyway? Out of interest, how is the converter cable wired? I didn't see a diagram of that, but the rest of the page you linked was very helpful. Thanks again!
  24. ColletArrow
    I can't seem to find anything about this elsewhere, so I'm going to ask here directly. Are there any disadvantage of using the older, 9v battery pack (4760c01) that took one 9v cell to run power functions receivers and motors instead of the current, 6x AAA battery pack (87513)? I know it will require a converter cable, but from my view it looks as though a 9v battery pack would be better as it is smaller (in height) and available in more colours than just DBG, so easier to hide in 4-wide MOCs and such. Will this have lower power or current output to the motors, or discharge faster? Is it suitable for use in train MOCs, considering mine won't need to run very far or for very long? I was intending on using it with a rechargeable 9v cell or two, how often would I need to swap one out and recharge it? I'm trying to decide whether or not buying one, and a converter cable, is a good idea. (Or I could try bashing together a PF cable and 9v battery clip perhaps, like this.) Thanks in advance for any help!
  25. ColletArrow
    You could probably create these shapes using part 57585 and some axle joiners, or it's counterpart 10288. You would just end up with some extra axles protruding at the corners.
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