SNIPE

Congratulations winners, I was not sure if my vote would count as I posted on the 27th of august but it did thankfully. Personally I thought the mini batman tumbr would win but it just goest to show I guess. each entry is great in its own right but my favourite favourites were: mini batman tumbr silly fat penguin ladybird However in the process ive seen some good stuff like the crop duster which uses technic ball joints and links, the blue and white plane which uses the 6 propellars as gears so they can all spin, and obvioustly comapact gearing mechanisms with more than one dial (usually a axle joiner or a 12 tooh gear) to manually operate them, I dont know how the blue evacuator mechanisms work in such a compact space. Again congrats all and to the winners!

hardest contest ive had to vote so far with 56/7 entries, good luck to all. 3:2 5:2 19:2 21:2 22:1 26:1 31:1 36:1 39:1 40:1 41:1 42:2 46:1 50:1 56:1

I got mine plus the micro mini cooper set plus the chima worriz' fire bike set plus £5.00 off at the lego store at gateshead metrocentre. The large mini itself was £75 so £70 plus two small models free.

Yes to work for TLG you have to be able to make good brum brum noises. its all in the contract.

look like amazing road/racing tires any ideas on the dimensions?

Maybe something like this:

Agreed, the 2L worm is an ideal size and you can add half bushes so it fits in a 3L gap. However a 1L thick worm gear could be useful as then you don't need to use studded bricks to connect it to 12, 20 ,28 or 36 tooth gears. however will an axle even fit through such a narrow worm gear? maybe we should just have a spacer that lets us space studless bricks into studded geometry and solve more problems with one idea.

I'd say it's still a worm gear even though it has one tooth , all worm gears are considered to be '1 tooth' anyhow so the ratio is X:1. worm gears can drive one another without needing spur gears, this acts like a linear actuator, and they can be used with gear strips and the technic double bevel gears.

Hi and Welcome to Eurobricks, For your setup, just stuff some bricks in.between the rim and the tire or maybe another tire. Or, maybe use a suspension pre-load.

The problem is , that you get taken away with building, and forget to hit save, then its too late.

Wow this is so compact, then I saw that it had rear seats then saw that is REALLY compact. Does anybody know what the modified brick with one stud is?

Does the red 42029 have diffs?

Here's my latest: This uses a spring to give extra traction between the wheels and the driving surface, where the wheels would normally slip this compresses the spring which gives traction to the wheels, the worm gear still rotates when it compresses so the wheels still get driven. It is designed for crawling, However you can disconnect the worm gear using the clutch and lever then either leave it to free wheel or add a faster drive using spur gears. This is different to a differential but ultimately does the same thing. When the spring is done compressing and no extra traction is needed it moves the car forwards a little bit, faster a than it would normally go, To automatically disconnect the worm gear from driving the wheels when the spring compresses so much, replace the axle joiner with ridges that is inside the clutch with a smooth axle joiner. Suspension for the axle can be added to wherever there's an available hole. The wheels are driven and can turn but not a great deal, looking to somehow improve that, putting the 32184's on the steering underneath makes one wheel turn slightly more than the other.

Would be good to synchronize the motors else the whole model will spin instead of directing the energy to make it lift.

Ill have a crack at refining it just give me a shout. SNIPE

I like the old worm gear better because it slides over the axle freely however lets say theres two liftarms with a 3L gap, and 1L under this is an 8 tooth spur gear spur gear, Now a normal worm gear would only be able to support one liftarm assuming it is used with an axle .w stop, where as with the new worm gear you can put an axle to pin connector in both ends of the worm gear and that will support both liftarms. Most of the time you can just support the liftarms externally but not always.

I actually tried this! minus having the 2x4 lift-arm, it looks nice because the frame looks less square on the sides, but I didn't think to add the 2x4 , good idea, ill test it out soon. Thanks

Not sure if its possible to remove the black parts while still supporting the drive axle as well as the lever to lock the axle.

Hi After trying to add steering to the front (drive gears and axle lock/unlock switch) I completely am out of ideas, the ideas I had could support the axle and UV joint to the frame however there was no mount for the steering rod, other ideas didn't even steer at all. I'm limited by space by quite a bit, 2L on top and above the bottom gray frame, However if being put right beside the worm gear the connection has to be the same as on a 1L bush so parts like 6536, 42003, 32184, 32291, 98989, 63869. If the connector is not right beside the worm gear then it can only be 0.5L thin. Don't need suspension with the steering because that just goes on the top grey frame and connects to the car chassis. Sorry its so awkward but I look forward to seeing it with steering working. heres the pictures and an LXF file I can also add it to the axle collection thread if it gets completed, as well as continue on with the full model Regards R

The ball looks too big, its around 1L because thetile is 2x1L.

Cool! thanks.

Hi I have just noted this part when wondering if it were possible that the motors could be driven by an ac/dc transformer. However the lego PF transformer has a normal power jack and not an PF jack on it so what is this used for? is there some way to change the jack on a suitable generic transformer so that its compatible with the motors side note = Could such a transformer charge the batteries in s PF battery box too? Having a transformer is way handier than having to mess with batteries especially for testing some mechanism where you don't need to have a wireless solution.

One of my 48889's has pins that feel frictionless but it still looks like a frictional pin

gah I had the mockup but LDD crashed ill try again however Im not sure if im allowed to help this way since this is a competition.

I think having the LA for the end of the boom would look better and would be stronger if it was put in between the two gears, then replace the bevel gears with a LA but yeah good stuff