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SNIPE

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by SNIPE

  1. Here is my take if you want a shallow design with little clearance between the plate and the motor: It is not as strong as other designs but may be just strong enough for the pupose and is fairly simple. One is offset by a half stud and one lines up with the studs. The red wall is where your technic studded beams would be. Regards, Snipe
  2. Loving the underside of the tippping bed how its curved, never been done before. Also like the suspention, another first for lego.
  3. I'm amazed how they manage to build such complex chassis and mechanisms within it This and the 42009 is very good, as well as the unimog of course. I can only make a technic set or an idea simplified/smaller but I cannot design an entire MOD/MOC that is this compact and multi-functional
  4. skip to 3:23 and you will find the other 2 cylenders packed right in tighly.So yes this is an inline 6.
  5. Hi Here is the current state of the truck, the biggest problem is fitting the gearbox in, every beam so far is long ways but to get the gearbox in beams will now have to be placed width ways. In the gearbox where the white 3L axle joiner with pinhole is is where the second gear shifting ring should be. dropbox wont let me embed images here but the link below should work. More photos here
  6. The engine is huge compared to the res tof the scale of the model anyway so I doubela 6 cylender was easy or even possible, only when and if we get smaller engine parts can we maybe see something like this. I prefer flat or inline as it takes up much less space.
  7. The tile (right) has been moved by half a stud hence the small gap. it would normally be a 4+1 tile arangment either side, theres pictures of it where it is placed correctly. this is because there is no 5L tiles.
  8. it's the holes in the UV joints that break, the centre bit is fine. some axle holes on lego pieces are quite hard to push an axle in so maybe a UV joint can have this too, though it means having an accurate milling machine. For example this piece: is harder to push an axle into, and i'm sure ive seen harder pieces as well., the outsites of the UV joint should not be like a double bush but more like the very old red UV joints or the CV joints.
  9. Is that a thin 6L liftarm with pinholes on each end in yellow on the side of the crane boom? set ooks very technicAL!
  10. the 42038 atric truck. the first like 30 pages are for the mechanism in the body and that is quite hard especically now there is new parts to play with. And the volvo front end loader I made a few errors but that was probably with my eyes being crappy.
  11. No, I don't mean that. The outside of the chain ring is being driven not the inside, and the drive is on the top of the chain for huge ground clearance. There is 4 chains which act as wheels.
  12. I have sat on it and it did not break, the two sides can actually meet together without it breaking :D
  13. Hi all After getting the 42038 Artic Truck, I played around with the track links and noticed that if you make a loop with all the tracks inverted, it can compress, but spring back to its original shape, and so I figired if I had the tracks jammed between some rollers on the underside and on the topside is a sprocket, it will have a motor per wheel and very high ground clearance. I have made a mockup of 1 wheel, it is fairly smooth running but needs stabilizing a lot, the wheel wobbles around. I think having two sprockets on the top then a roller in the middle on the underside might be better (like a triangle shape). The good thing is the wheels change shape depending on the surface it is driving on, the wheels in the mockup are quite hard to compress so just add more links to it. Heres the pics: Now since i'm too busy to start building this I'm just gonna leave the idea out here and see what happnes, I have my 42029 project on the go already... I'm sure somebody willl make something cool out of it, post ideas and builds below!. Regards, Snipe
  14. We need UV joints that dont slip off the axles and that dont crack. I dont know if LEGO will make something, a CV joint is too long and does not have much flex. Also a UV joint with a fixed 3 L axle on one side instead of an axle hole would be cool because it can fit in tight spaces, the 3L axle just goes to the diferential.
  15. According to the Lego shop the official release date is1/1/15 however this may change.
  16. I got: Sariels new book 42030 Volvo front end loader 42029 customized pickup truck I was hoping the 24028 would be out but ill have to get that soon.
  17. Sure, it was the only way to connect it to my diff setup really, because the teeth of the 4th tooth diff were only very slightly sticking out enough to have another gear of the same size on top of that so a bevel gear wouldtn be possible and a worm gear locks the wheels up so they cant free wheel. I didn't fnish the MOC (as usual ) but it had the engine 24T gear connected right to the 24T diff. Some old lego offical sets use a transverse engine too. I tend to use flat engines such as flat 8 now because they can be bould around much easier. they are lenghways though,
  18. Ive already made a fairly small steer+drive+suspention unit, depending on what wheels you choose it can be fairly small. I'm using it in my modded 42029. However I hate the diff as it wobbles and the UV crack. New parts do come out though.
  19. Easiest way would be a press I think.
  20. Technic. Because it put more motion into lego and it can be very compactly done, sure there was wheels and properllers before technic but thats not quite the same.
  21. LOL You can use this by putting a 1L pin with stud in the hole of a steering rack so the stud is sticking up then put the mic in the pin with stid hole to raise the steering arms slightly. You got it here first
  22. WOOHOO
  23. Hi Does anybody have this part lying around at all? If so, does anybody know if it fits inside of a ball joint connector such as: Regards, Snipe
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