SNIPE

Here's some real pictures, real life is better than LDD minus the sore fingers. And a video https://www.youtube....coVENsEg0f7K3Uw The front wheels are the same as the back wheels so that should be easy enough, I need to add more to the front chassis, and add the center differential in. Steering, suspension and Drive on on all 4 wheels.

The 1L axle with ball on the end is also in matt or shiny looking at my collection.

The hubs have poor steering and suspension articulation. Wheels and tires are the same might add bigger ones not sure. I tried the hubs from the snowmobile but getting the steering rod attached to the steering rack is too hard as the steering rod is sideways due to how the hub is. The hubs from the 8448 could work but there rare and only come in 2's This way has better steering and suspension anyhow.

Hi For the past 2 days I've been working on improving the 42029 pickup truck, I saw the pictures on Google and reckoned that it could have a front differential, after I got the LXF from ZBLJ (kudos) I saw that there was also space for a center differential so I put one of those in too!, Heh why not. and today I have been busy adding 4 wheel steering and suspension all round as well as connecting the diffs to the wheels. The body may need to be widened a bit but this model is excellent for modding so feel free to add your own to this thread. A battery box fitted in the back leaving room still for it to load things onto the bed. Ill be adding gears and the motor soon, he gearbox for the winch and bed can be built around as there is axles with space on them for some clutch gears and the clutch barrel. The rear shocks aren't in LDD. The drive layout is: front differential - transfer case (to engine and gearbox) - center differential - rear differential. Here's the pics: LXF file so far Big Images

Deal. Thanks a lot!.

Oh hehe Thanks Alot.

Nah just leave it

How long would that take?. It takes me ages personally so if it's too much time just leave it.

Hi Does Anybody Have an LXF file for the technic 42029 pickup truck set? I'd like to modify it to get more features Regards, S

The ridge on a 3l axle with stop makes the axle not go in all the way if its a cross hole because cross holes aren't chamfered. the ridge on a pin hole is so the pin doesn't fall out or separate the two parts slightly. Now, are friction pins really needed?. when frictionless does the same and lets you put a bar through the hole.

There's an easy fix for that maybe several.

Hi, the middle carriage is now shorter and lighter it is now 3 windows long instead of 5 plus a gap for the side doors so the overall length is 32L which is more realistic to other lego trains. This means I don't need to use the sideways tiles to fill in the gap, as you can see the gap between the windows is a round '22L', the bulkiness and wicked colours will be fixed when I get the parts from bricklink.

Hi, This is the testing for the real life model. I'm not using 1x1 sideways modified bricks as the side walls were not even attached to the floor, it also has too many lines where all those bricks connect. Now the walls are upright not upside -down. The gaps between the glass are wider than in the LDD model, So I moved the pillars out by 1L and filled in the excess gaps with sideways 3L tiles. Secondly I've had to use clunky 1x16 bricks for testing things out as my floor plates are bent and make the glass come out of the grooves. Pictures coming soon. I'm concerned about the lengh of the carrage as its 36L so I've had to ditch the side doors idea for now.

I've tried now but no luck It happened 2 days ago and many times before this though I'll keep trying

60803 57895 When putting the sides with the nubs on end to end it makes LDD crash.

Putting two or more 1x4x6 glass panes right next to each other crashes LDD The small shock absorber is in the parts list but clicking it does not bring the shock absorber up, Loading models with this part causes LDD to remove them. Sometimes putting a 1x2 or largerplate in the pinholes of a technic beam causes the brick to be lined up fine but the studs somehow go offset and sink into the brick itself. the plate does go all the way in though which is useful. There's a trick to getting it in but I've forgotten it. The UV joints cant be moved left/right and up/down per side. not really a bug though. Some parts with slats such as the 1x2 tile grill piece causes a collision when you try to put something in the slats such as glass. A lot of parts with cut outs act like this too, like there solid.

Im reposting again after a re think Since theres so many suggestions I have reconsidered my list, now im choosing important parts not just for MOCS but for official sets: 32195a 32195b 2738 6540a 6540b 32186 x872 x873 2999 4361 2737 32068 x1299 x148 6631 3704 3705b 3737b 4698 x334c01 (should come as 3 subparts, end top middle) 32064b 4034c501 40344c01 92715 ( should be separate too) 40344/40345 3651 32068 6538a/6538b x928cx1 90 91 bb900 (this is to mix and match, 3L uv joint should be replaced by 62520 4143 73071 6630 6592 32132 32185 x186 15100 4459 32124 32181c03 108 371c04+371c05+371c06 replaced by 732, the top clip and soft, hard, extra hard spring (all these should be subparts) 95292c01,2909c02,2909c03 replaced by 2909,109,110a,110b,extra hard spring (all these should be subparts) 2850/2870b 2907 424 mini turntable replaced by 99010,99009 large turntable replaced by 48452,48168 2855 2856 2907 2998 32197 2903 22969 32057 32077 44293c01 all tires for rims above new tires from the lego batman tumbler tiles with no groove on bottom

Sure Go for it

Ok thanks anyway. ill just buy some blue glass panels. The gap between the two window frame bits is fine in life I'm not using trans black - not enough on Bricklink. ill need around 80 for 1 train (yes 20 per carriage, 4 carriages maybe 8 will be taken away off of the train.

Hi, Is there some way to put the glass inside of the grooves of the modified 1x2 tiles? x5 of the glass panes is equal to 33L (or 16 tiles with a 1L gap as shown below) Ive heard of people editing the Parameters inside of the LXF file to finely move parts but I have no idea how to do this so help would be greatly appreciated!, The bottom and top frames should hopefully be the right space apart for the glass to fit between. Here's a Picture: And Here is the LXF file to save aligning the windows up (this will crash LDD constantly so DONT try this unless youre editing the file using the text editor perhaps) Thanks, S

Lego should make a theme using bikes, ive seen a couple of technic bikes on youtube, one was a BMX they could market it kinda like how those finger skateboards are marketed, maybe mix and match parts or have addons for the bikes such as a bashguard or different suspention.

Moved the bogies outwards each by 1L Here is the train with more rounded ends and with space made for the side doors the lime green bricks mark where the window frame ends and where the door frame begins. the door will be 2L from the very inner end of the train. Heres a picture LARGE PICTURES Regards, K

AH! just realized something, the glass can only be 5 panes long not 6 to align with the lego brick dimensions so this gives me some extra room to have doors. ill post pics soon, but now that I've shortened the walls and window frame its a mammoth edit job to get the walls to connect with no gaps (where there's 2 1x1 plates + 1x1 brick w two studs and so forth)

Lego make a PF mains transformer. but you could get a regular 9v and strip the wires then add a 9v or pf connnector on the end. no battery pack needed then.

Hmm, You mean add side doors? Having side doors with the windows how they are sounds impossible. The windows dont line up with the bricks around them so I cant make a frame for the gap where the door will be. this will also be the door frame but will allow the windows around it ti stay in place and not slide out. The only way the bricks kinda line up is to have 6 windows aside as shown in the model, this fits fine. I dont know if 3 instead of 6 may or may nor work. but then the carrage would be much shorter and that means less seats. Also you cant have a seat where the side door is. The idea was to have side and an end door on the front and rear carrages, then you can walk between two carrages using the end doors. I don't know if this is logical or not I dont know much about trains haha. since the end carrages are shorter I could probably put side doors there and maybe even make them open automatially. Ive seen a good design for automatic doors, its a normal door opening mechanism but in lego.