SNIPE

The ridge on a 3l axle with stop makes the axle not go in all the way if its a cross hole because cross holes aren't chamfered. the ridge on a pin hole is so the pin doesn't fall out or separate the two parts slightly. Now, are friction pins really needed?. when frictionless does the same and lets you put a bar through the hole.

There's an easy fix for that maybe several.

Hi, the middle carriage is now shorter and lighter it is now 3 windows long instead of 5 plus a gap for the side doors so the overall length is 32L which is more realistic to other lego trains. This means I don't need to use the sideways tiles to fill in the gap, as you can see the gap between the windows is a round '22L', the bulkiness and wicked colours will be fixed when I get the parts from bricklink.

Hi, This is the testing for the real life model. I'm not using 1x1 sideways modified bricks as the side walls were not even attached to the floor, it also has too many lines where all those bricks connect. Now the walls are upright not upside -down. The gaps between the glass are wider than in the LDD model, So I moved the pillars out by 1L and filled in the excess gaps with sideways 3L tiles. Secondly I've had to use clunky 1x16 bricks for testing things out as my floor plates are bent and make the glass come out of the grooves. Pictures coming soon. I'm concerned about the lengh of the carrage as its 36L so I've had to ditch the side doors idea for now.

I've tried now but no luck It happened 2 days ago and many times before this though I'll keep trying

60803 57895 When putting the sides with the nubs on end to end it makes LDD crash.

Putting two or more 1x4x6 glass panes right next to each other crashes LDD The small shock absorber is in the parts list but clicking it does not bring the shock absorber up, Loading models with this part causes LDD to remove them. Sometimes putting a 1x2 or largerplate in the pinholes of a technic beam causes the brick to be lined up fine but the studs somehow go offset and sink into the brick itself. the plate does go all the way in though which is useful. There's a trick to getting it in but I've forgotten it. The UV joints cant be moved left/right and up/down per side. not really a bug though. Some parts with slats such as the 1x2 tile grill piece causes a collision when you try to put something in the slats such as glass. A lot of parts with cut outs act like this too, like there solid.

Im reposting again after a re think Since theres so many suggestions I have reconsidered my list, now im choosing important parts not just for MOCS but for official sets: 32195a 32195b 2738 6540a 6540b 32186 x872 x873 2999 4361 2737 32068 x1299 x148 6631 3704 3705b 3737b 4698 x334c01 (should come as 3 subparts, end top middle) 32064b 4034c501 40344c01 92715 ( should be separate too) 40344/40345 3651 32068 6538a/6538b x928cx1 90 91 bb900 (this is to mix and match, 3L uv joint should be replaced by 62520 4143 73071 6630 6592 32132 32185 x186 15100 4459 32124 32181c03 108 371c04+371c05+371c06 replaced by 732, the top clip and soft, hard, extra hard spring (all these should be subparts) 95292c01,2909c02,2909c03 replaced by 2909,109,110a,110b,extra hard spring (all these should be subparts) 2850/2870b 2907 424 mini turntable replaced by 99010,99009 large turntable replaced by 48452,48168 2855 2856 2907 2998 32197 2903 22969 32057 32077 44293c01 all tires for rims above new tires from the lego batman tumbler tiles with no groove on bottom

Sure Go for it

Ok thanks anyway. ill just buy some blue glass panels. The gap between the two window frame bits is fine in life I'm not using trans black - not enough on Bricklink. ill need around 80 for 1 train (yes 20 per carriage, 4 carriages maybe 8 will be taken away off of the train.

Hi, Is there some way to put the glass inside of the grooves of the modified 1x2 tiles? x5 of the glass panes is equal to 33L (or 16 tiles with a 1L gap as shown below) Ive heard of people editing the Parameters inside of the LXF file to finely move parts but I have no idea how to do this so help would be greatly appreciated!, The bottom and top frames should hopefully be the right space apart for the glass to fit between. Here's a Picture: And Here is the LXF file to save aligning the windows up (this will crash LDD constantly so DONT try this unless youre editing the file using the text editor perhaps) Thanks, S

Lego should make a theme using bikes, ive seen a couple of technic bikes on youtube, one was a BMX they could market it kinda like how those finger skateboards are marketed, maybe mix and match parts or have addons for the bikes such as a bashguard or different suspention.

Moved the bogies outwards each by 1L Here is the train with more rounded ends and with space made for the side doors the lime green bricks mark where the window frame ends and where the door frame begins. the door will be 2L from the very inner end of the train. Heres a picture LARGE PICTURES Regards, K

AH! just realized something, the glass can only be 5 panes long not 6 to align with the lego brick dimensions so this gives me some extra room to have doors. ill post pics soon, but now that I've shortened the walls and window frame its a mammoth edit job to get the walls to connect with no gaps (where there's 2 1x1 plates + 1x1 brick w two studs and so forth)

Lego make a PF mains transformer. but you could get a regular 9v and strip the wires then add a 9v or pf connnector on the end. no battery pack needed then.

Hmm, You mean add side doors? Having side doors with the windows how they are sounds impossible. The windows dont line up with the bricks around them so I cant make a frame for the gap where the door will be. this will also be the door frame but will allow the windows around it ti stay in place and not slide out. The only way the bricks kinda line up is to have 6 windows aside as shown in the model, this fits fine. I dont know if 3 instead of 6 may or may nor work. but then the carrage would be much shorter and that means less seats. Also you cant have a seat where the side door is. The idea was to have side and an end door on the front and rear carrages, then you can walk between two carrages using the end doors. I don't know if this is logical or not I dont know much about trains haha. since the end carrages are shorter I could probably put side doors there and maybe even make them open automatially. Ive seen a good design for automatic doors, its a normal door opening mechanism but in lego.

I think TLG should make a theme with the bike thing lego make smooth and off road bike tires so yeah they can make different colours and shapes and add more features , kinda like how these finger skateboards are marketed and imaged.

Hi I'm busy building a 'middle class' train. I got the idea because I was experimenting with window panes, trying to get a 'pillarless' effect, it was actually supposed to be for an elevator with an automatic door that was part of another project that was scrapped. so I took the same idea and started making a modern looking train, I knew that real modern trains have pillarless windows so I started on the carrage; I first built the windows & frames then added the walls to that, then I put a simple foor on it, A few months later I did everything else, Now I need to make the front and rear carrages in which the driver and more passengers sit. It features: Double glazed pillarless windows Opening Front and Rear doors with windows Luggarge compartments above the seats like on a coach Fold down TV screens like on a airplane (these are above the seats) Air Conditioning dials and lamp (these need the stickers/decails to be complete)(also above the seats) Adjustable seats. Sorry modular fans, no detachable roof with out the windows falling out It hold 20 seats and can ride on lego electric track, the wheels turn so it can go round corners of course. I was hoping to make the front and rear doors open either automatically or open by sliding out like a patio door but it looks impossible. In the later stage of the build I did rush a little bit but before this I didnt make any progress for months so I just wanted to actually make 'something' at least, even if it could be improved. However im happy with the interior definetley. and the wheels look good with the slopes as arches. The layout of the whole train is: front carrage - middle carrage -middle carrage - rear carrage. The drivers' seats are in the front and rear carrages. it consists of 1102 parts excluding sub parts. So Here it is: - yes annoyingly I couldn't get the windows in but im sure they should fit in real life. Large Images LXF FILE So, What is your feedback so far? Personally I think it could be more round where the front ad back doors are and maybe could have some more features such as the dangly things on the roof for the electric overhead lines. Any questions about it?, leave a peply. Regards, Snipe (Hint, if you get the LXF file, try moving the camera,zoom,, and the model, you should be able to go right inside of the interior, looks pretty cool like that!, - LDD should have a first person mode.)

Congratulations winners, I was not sure if my vote would count as I posted on the 27th of august but it did thankfully. Personally I thought the mini batman tumbr would win but it just goest to show I guess. each entry is great in its own right but my favourite favourites were: mini batman tumbr silly fat penguin ladybird However in the process ive seen some good stuff like the crop duster which uses technic ball joints and links, the blue and white plane which uses the 6 propellars as gears so they can all spin, and obvioustly comapact gearing mechanisms with more than one dial (usually a axle joiner or a 12 tooh gear) to manually operate them, I dont know how the blue evacuator mechanisms work in such a compact space. Again congrats all and to the winners!

hardest contest ive had to vote so far with 56/7 entries, good luck to all. 3:2 5:2 19:2 21:2 22:1 26:1 31:1 36:1 39:1 40:1 41:1 42:2 46:1 50:1 56:1

I got mine plus the micro mini cooper set plus the chima worriz' fire bike set plus £5.00 off at the lego store at gateshead metrocentre. The large mini itself was £75 so £70 plus two small models free.

Yes to work for TLG you have to be able to make good brum brum noises. its all in the contract.

look like amazing road/racing tires any ideas on the dimensions?

Maybe something like this:

Agreed, the 2L worm is an ideal size and you can add half bushes so it fits in a 3L gap. However a 1L thick worm gear could be useful as then you don't need to use studded bricks to connect it to 12, 20 ,28 or 36 tooth gears. however will an axle even fit through such a narrow worm gear? maybe we should just have a spacer that lets us space studless bricks into studded geometry and solve more problems with one idea.