SNIPE

Hi, Is it possible to use the small pneumatic cylinders to make a LPE engine, obviously the cylinders need modifying but it would be cool/interesting to get one working, i'm not so bothered about the power output.

How do the tracks stay on the wheels?

Herringbone gears, Also maybe something to position the new 8 tooth gear so it meshes on a 90 degree angle to a 20 tooth double bevel gear or a 12 tooth double bevel gear (yes they mesh fine.)

I got around 10 of these they were part of the lego models like the technic Ferrari's and the 8070.

which is the widest out of: Williams F1 (8461)) Silver Champion (8458) Grand Prix Racer (42009) Ferrari F1 (8674)

I insert more tha 1 stud in all the time and there not damaged at all

I'll try that, thanks Edit: Sorry, looks like its too big as there is two even bigger ramps as well that will be needed, maybe this is too hard to replicate in lego

Hi Is there some brick/way I can make a corner for a half pipe, something like this but with no railings I have the normal straight bits for the ramps but I'm stuck on the corners, i'm using these for the straight ramps or maybe something like it which has a curve better suited to the corner (if I can make a corner) I cant seem to find anything in LDD/Bricklink Regards, S

Ah I see the new palette in LDD normal mode now, Thanks

Yey! The old technic seat is there and the old brick separator tool is added too, this is one good update, Still wishing for technic steering elements, and the 'technic/lego sports' spring box Also the technic axle flexible 26L, but so it can be dismantled like you can the mini Linear Actuator Trick, so you can use the axle ends on their own, but that is a big ask The small end of the flexi-axle is almost the inverse of this PS, how did you get all those legacy colors up in the palette. mine is different to this.

Some crown gears that can mesh with regular lego spur gears would be good,crowns can act as spur gears too if the teeth are cut right. however unlike the current crown gear we don't need the bit sticking out in the middle for the axle hole.

you mean 1 plate thick or 1 half liftarm thick or what/

Something to connect to these two:

I don't understand why it has to be two motors, the two outputs in the motor are connected by gears anyhow so surely you should be able to externally gear them back down so get close to what RPM/torque, or like a little less speed than the high speed output and a little less torque then the high torque output but still might be useful. The external gears are just cancelling out what the internal gears are going.

Can't you link the two motor outputs at the right ratio so that it will go fast and have more torque? Also cant you use one or two PF battery boxes for the RC motors? saves space and is a better shape to build around.

Maybe it doesn't matter that much if the tread links are meshed with the gear you can use stickers or maybe some grey lego domes on each side of the gear , that should hide the color. Maybe the chain links will fit over something like a gear , maybe the large lego pulley. the ground will drive the chain links anyhow when You move the model. Just try putting links around wheels and pulleys, etc. wheels usually have a groove in the middle which the links wlll sit in.

it looks like duplo gears and axles are compatible with lego technic, see here http://www.marshall.edu/lego/lessonplans/houston/legoprojects.html here is the duplo gears

Thanks very much for the LXF file Gerger, I have played around with it now and made the mechanisms a bit better and simpler, also some gears were not meshed fully, fixed that. LARGE photo Here is the LXF file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/finneykris/mfr/chassis.lxf Regards, Snipe

3:1 9:1 12:1 15:1 18:1 20:1

4:1 26:1 30:2 38:1 39:1 I was going to just do *6 1's since there was so many great entries but I feel entry 30 is the best overall - the yellow walls and the way those clear duplo panes are used for the swimming pool, it has the perfect level of detail in, mainly around the walls/balcony. Good work guys!

I got mine for £160 around 16 days ago

Nice Chart There, I have bookmarked it, The wheel in the above reply should be simular to the motorbike one, you may have these wheels to add,,maybe not:

As you can see, the light grey gear can be shifted into the the light grey gear to select both wheels, the whole axle but the clutch gears and case moves when shifted. this engages the custom clutch+ into the dark grey gears using the gear stick., the red clutch+clutch gears set just for the gearbox itself., There is more of those in the entire assembly. The custom clutch has two bushes inside of the parts labeled as transparent,this meshes and locks it to the axle, normally it would slide along the axle and would not rotate with it. The Gap in the custom clutch needs to be wide enough for the lever to engage the drive but then back out again without pulling the clutch from the gear

Fire truck kinda like the 42009 but a fire engine

I think I have solved it, instead of trying to have the transfer case disconnect drive-shaft A or B it now also can drive A AND/OR B. I made the middle position for the transfer case that would normally be 'neutral', '4WD' instead, I did this by adding a fixed gear on the end that when the axle slides in the runners that axle slides into engagement with another axle that goes to both drive shafts, when the clutch in the transfer case is engaged to a clutch gear , the end- gear slides out of engagement and the clutch gear goes to the corresponding drive shaft. Possible Problems: The axle only slides a very small amount so it may not be enough to disconnect the end axle completely. and adding this end axle makes it a bit more bulky. Teeth may be damaged unless I used a technic knob wheel.