SNIPE

Here's a pic of my setup Not sure why I'm getting bump steer I guess its just something that comes with using lego. More images I have the LXF file but some parts are connected but not lined up properly and are colliding but LDD does not remove them. Regards, S

Hi Quick question, If I add a return to center spring box, will this cancel out some bump steer? does the PF servo motor have return to center built in? The steering and suspension geometry is perfect besides the bump steer. Regards, Snipe

The rear wheel from the 8417 has a deeper inside than a Unimog rim and the tire looks kinda cool too. you'd have to buy 4 from Bricklink realistically though. The 8448 wheels slide off the axle easily and also wobble on the axle slightly. The tumbler rims are quite small and not very deep. but the tire is kinda deep. For me the Williams f1 racer wheels are still the best. can somebody tell me what the inner diameter is in 'L' units? Inner diameter of the Unimog rims is 5L, and the radius is 3L

Cool concept I do think however that using lego springs will be better as they slide over axles and take up little space. they can fit inside of 2,3,4,5, or 6 L gaps. The springs come in 4 different strengths, here is an extra hard one: The black inner bit it not needed, I'm trying to design a gun that uses springs right now actually. Also, what Ammo are you using? Regards, Snpe

With certain DPI modes windows will use a new set of icons and may also change the theme. so something might be lowering the DPI because of an graphical incompatibility. The DPI can be changed via a setting in the registry which is what some program might be doing. It might just be changing the theme to classic without touching the DPI but I'm not sure.

Nah, not really The UV joints and axle must be like this because if it isnt the uv joint will be obstructed by the suspension arms Also the UV joint pivot must be inline with the front ball joints on the suspension arms. Portal hubs will stick out a lot too and the steering and suspention will be worse with portal hubs

Hi, Today I fixed the steering, drive and suspension so that it is has less parts and better geometry. The suspension arms are now 4L apart all the way along, and the steering back is moved AWAY from the differential by an extra 1L. Also the clearance between the bottom of the chassis and the ground has improved quit a bit. I'm hoping to add brakes somehow and you can see the mounts by the steering track rod ends. Pictures: [bIG] The ball joint on the wheel end is 1L below the ball on the steering rack end, when the suspension is fully compressed it is 1L above the ball joint on the steering rack end I'll make an LXF file soon. Regards, S

The technic clutch ring that goes over an axle joiner allows for some parts to slide in which would never fit in real live Eg: a half bush

This is a cleverly designed MOC, even the tail is realistic and its the same all round, how did you do the eyebrows? Is it a male or female wolf :D EDIT: The base is also great, looks just like one big brick but will be made of several.

Cool idea for the steering. I was thinking of using chain drive for each front wheel but this also works. Nice job.

The 8448 gearbox has like 5+ axles, 3 on top and 2 or 3 three underneath it and it has 3 clutches all 3 have neutral gear.

Hi, 1st and 2nd are the same speed but 3rd works. the motor gets bogged down when its in 1st as its trying to move the 24T clutch gear. are you using a regular 24T clutch or one without the springs so its more of an idler gear?

wow and there all different ratios? or is it a 'fake gearbox'?

ill check that then. can this still let me have 3 axles and one movable red clutch ring and 3 speeds?.

Hi, I'm trying to make a linear 3 speed gearbox using only 3 axles max but I can only get 1 or 2 speeds. I have 24 and 16 tooth idler gears. I'd like to have: 1st gear: 3:1 / 1:3 2nd gear: 1:1 3rd gear: 1:1.6 / 1.6:1 2nd is where neutral would normally be and the topmost 16 tooth gears are for this. The leftmost axle is the output, the rightmost axle is the input. However i cant get it to work. I've round 3 or 4 2 speed gearboxes but this just spins the output at the same speed.and I'm getting really confused now, The middle axle is interesting in that its a split axle but both of the idler gears are synchronized as one drives the other. This can have a single axle too. I could also use axles but with no idlers. However having a split axle allows me to substitute a 20 tooth idler gear and an 8 tooth idler gear. Is there some way to do this? Regards, S

Ah for the wheels?

Here's some real pictures, real life is better than LDD minus the sore fingers. And a video https://www.youtube....coVENsEg0f7K3Uw The front wheels are the same as the back wheels so that should be easy enough, I need to add more to the front chassis, and add the center differential in. Steering, suspension and Drive on on all 4 wheels.

The 1L axle with ball on the end is also in matt or shiny looking at my collection.

The hubs have poor steering and suspension articulation. Wheels and tires are the same might add bigger ones not sure. I tried the hubs from the snowmobile but getting the steering rod attached to the steering rack is too hard as the steering rod is sideways due to how the hub is. The hubs from the 8448 could work but there rare and only come in 2's This way has better steering and suspension anyhow.

Hi For the past 2 days I've been working on improving the 42029 pickup truck, I saw the pictures on Google and reckoned that it could have a front differential, after I got the LXF from ZBLJ (kudos) I saw that there was also space for a center differential so I put one of those in too!, Heh why not. and today I have been busy adding 4 wheel steering and suspension all round as well as connecting the diffs to the wheels. The body may need to be widened a bit but this model is excellent for modding so feel free to add your own to this thread. A battery box fitted in the back leaving room still for it to load things onto the bed. Ill be adding gears and the motor soon, he gearbox for the winch and bed can be built around as there is axles with space on them for some clutch gears and the clutch barrel. The rear shocks aren't in LDD. The drive layout is: front differential - transfer case (to engine and gearbox) - center differential - rear differential. Here's the pics: LXF file so far Big Images

Deal. Thanks a lot!.

Oh hehe Thanks Alot.

Nah just leave it

How long would that take?. It takes me ages personally so if it's too much time just leave it.

Hi Does Anybody Have an LXF file for the technic 42029 pickup truck set? I'd like to modify it to get more features Regards, S