SNIPE

Did you combine one drive ring position with the other drive ring position? there is definetley more then 4 speeds, Drive ring A moved up + drive ring B moved up Drive ring A moved up + drive ring B moved down Drive ring A moved down + drive ring B moved up Drive ring A moved down + drive ring B moved down. Yes theres the normal 4 positions too. It also seems that the M motor works fine with this which is great, saved space there. theres more gears in my final MOC but so far the motor isn't struggling in my earlier gearboxes

Hi I am wondering, if this gearbox has 8 output speeds, it looks like some are slightly faster or slower than others but it could be down to me, or the motor slowing down. I dont have an XL motor yet and the batteries are not fully charged in my setup. Note that I mean the speed (RPM) of the output shaft, not the ratio for the input to the output. Go through the normal 4 positions but then combine them together to get another 4 speeds, so for example move one red selector up and the other one down. Are there any unneeded gears here also? LXF FILE Regards,Snipe.

YEY the new pin to hole connector is there and the new tire!.

The strongest building method I know is where you design the shape of the model using sideways lego bricks however I am not sure if that is a viable option here.

I'd say it is legal as lots of things, even in real life have 'spring pre-load'. Either because there not the perfect length or because it can be useful to have in order to push something outwards or to increase the force when it decompresses. That's why shocks sometimes have special nuts over them, - to compress the spring. If you're bothered about it being broke don't do it. if your not then do it. You can take the spring itself off the assembly as its just a clip holding it on and therefore put it over a regular axle - good for if there's too much or little room for a regular, spring assembly, or the wrong type/angle of connection. So yeah, its just doing what it is designed to do, but for longer periods of time, even some official lego models keep it compressed to some extent.

Sorry for the late response, click an axle through a gear with the hinge tool. It's more of an oscillating motion than rotary however, try putting bars through the gears and make one gear hinged slightly out, keep increasing the angle and it might make it rotary motion. If not try minutely chancing the track rod length. by making a custom made track rod. File

Yes, since its a solid brick it wont spectate unlike building a Lego equivalent out of many parts. I've only did it once for a bridge myself and that was in LDD

Hi I've noticed that the time where it says when I've edited or posted or read things is like an hour off I have it set to Great Britain but no luck Any way to fix that? Example: It's 18:39 here but it says this thread was posted at 07:39 PM

Lego should have put a 9 v connector on the battery box to charge the batteries or just use the ac power directly. need a suitable ac/dc transformer which is stepped down to 9V lego also sell one of those.

That wont work it needs to be a normal gear unless theres another gear something driving it then it becomes an idler gear. What motor should I use??

Well. 2 or 3 L radius depending on if your counting the center hole as 1L 5L is the most I've been able to fit in them.

its the only way to have a compact 5/6+ speed gearbox using normal clutch rings. it acts like an idler in some speeds and like a normal gear in other speeds which lets me combine speeds to get more speeds! if that makes sense. For example I could add 1st gear and 3rd gear to get compound train output. Normally the gearbox would just jam but the clutch gear allows it to work. The transmission is 3x5x7 in dimension. i'm using a weak clutch gear, but all 3 strengths still work.

You can still select the L R or both axles using just the red clutch, the 20 tooth gears mesh to the corresponding axle joiner depending on where the input and output is, In some cases you'd need the 16 tooth gears. Regards, S

Hi, I'm thinking about powering my latest 42029 mod, it is currently using 1 PF L motor, however the rotation is jerky and it is struggling a little which wears the batteries down so - Should I use a PF XL motor, or a torquier and slim EV3 motor? It needs to drive a gearbox which has a lot of gears plus a white clutch gear (5 speeds or more), and the winch and loading bed and the functions gearbox. An external return to center mechanism ,small as it can be is still probably too big so I'm using a PF servo motor for the steering, all motors are then connected to a normal 8881 PF battery box. So any ideas?

Hi when a PM conversation reaches a new page it stops sending alerts for new messages Is this normal and wouldn't conversations be better all on one page?. Regards, S

Hi Being able to side the selector ring between two axle joiners sounds quite hard as the notches have to line up and one will always be spinning even in neutral. The 16 tooth gears are not really needed if you don't want neutral, so it would be quite small then which is good. Cool idea though.

Hi Yes, I managed to reduce the vibration caused from the white clutch, maintain enough of the torque try building the last picture I posted if you want to see it work as that is the working model iv'e tried using an 8+24-24-8 compound train but it loses too much torque and is very slow in one of the gears.

Here is the LXF Regards, Snipe

Oh the black end is the input, green is output I've made it way smaller now, it is now 1x5x7 excluding the length/height of the gears. The white clutch is close and on the same axle as the motor too. i'll buy some type 1 white clutches as those are weaker than type 2 or 3. I believe they only came in early lego education sets though so getting the right type from brick-link is going to be hard so I might just stick to the one I'm using. it is ok and ill post a video of it working soon along with LXF files. I tried white clutches in a similar thread to this but could not get it to work and that had a third gear train instead of combining A and B into a compound train. As always, i'm using an L motor.

Ive did it! The middle position is 1st as it's fastest. the gear box 5x7x7 but I'm busy trying to make it smaller. An L or XL motor is recommended for drive. The gap in the middle is so I can see what the gears are for the middle axle. There are 3 axles in parallel and two in linear (for the clutch ring.) I also have another version with another set of 8+24 gears rather than a 12 to 20 train but it is not as strong and a lot of torque is lost. How I could make a 6 speed gearbox using only two red clutch rings if I wanted bur first like I mentioned ill try and make this one smaller. Regards, Snipe.

I've built it but it just spins both grey gears always, the middle position is neutral I've tried using a different ratio instead of a second white clutch gear, so now its 16c:8:8 and the other is 16c:24 the 24 clutch gear inner part is not being used at all. but I'm getting two speeds by the middle position is again just neutral. When I say 16c here I mean 16 clutch.

Never mind, it only works for gears that are unmeshed. So kinda useless.

Nope no neutral needed Sorry, forgot to mention that

Hi, Is there some way (using a clutch ring) to have 3 speeds however 3rd is where the clutch ring is in the middle position and it is engaging 1ST and 2ND at the same time so for example EG: 1ST = 1.667:1 & 2ND = 3:1 so 3rd = 5.001:1 [1.667 x 3]). This is a single output single input gearbox. I don't know what else to say really but I cannot seem to get it to work. I multiplied because it will assumably be a compound gear train. Regards, S

Hi Just connect two 24T gears up and put ball joints in a pinhole of the gears. Connect the ball joints with a link, the link, a link can be made longer easily would be needed. I got it working but one gear reverses at a certain point as my links were the wrong length. Also you click on the axle through the gear when you wanna use the hinge tool to rotate the gear.